——aMELROSEmELBOSEcamps between Kittyfield and Leaderfoot ; IT <strong>of</strong> Kaeside,near Abbotsford ; and at Mars Lee Wood ; and borderpeels at Bnckholm on the Gala, in the valley <strong>of</strong> theAllan, and at Darnick. The principal mansions, most<strong>of</strong> whioh are separately noticed, are Abbotsford, AUerly,ChiefsTvood—once the residence <strong>of</strong> Lockhart, Scott's sonin-law—Drygrange,Eildon Hall, Huntly-burn Houseonce the residence <strong>of</strong> Scott's friends, the Fergussons,and the name itself <strong>of</strong> Sir "Walter's choosing—GattonsideHouse, Ladhope House, Langhaugh, Lowood,Abbey Park, The Pavilion, The Priory, Prior Woodformerly Prior Bank—once the residence <strong>of</strong> the wellknownEdinburgh publisher, Tait, the founder <strong>of</strong> Taitsoppose Blackwood'sMagazine, which was established toMagazine—Eavenswood, Sunnyside, Threepwood, Whitelee,Wester Langlee, and Wooplaw. Besides the town <strong>of</strong>Melrose, which is noticed in the following article, theparish contains also the villages <strong>of</strong> Blainslie (NE), DakuicK(S), Gattonside (S), Newstead (SE), Nbwtowk(extreme SE), and part <strong>of</strong> the town <strong>of</strong> Galashibis—all<strong>of</strong> which are separately noticed — and the hamlet <strong>of</strong>Eildon. Except in Galashiels there are no industries,and the population <strong>of</strong> the parish are mostly engaged inagriculture. In suitable spots there are excellentorchards—legacies <strong>of</strong> the monks—some <strong>of</strong> which arevery productive, those in the Gattonside districtbeing said to produce more fruit than all the othersin the vale <strong>of</strong> Tweed. About J mile WSW <strong>of</strong>the town <strong>of</strong> Melrose, on Bowden Moor, is thedistrict lunatic asjdum for the counties <strong>of</strong> Pioxburgh,Selkirk, and Berwick, which with its grounds covers aspace <strong>of</strong> 25 acres. The buildings occupy three sides <strong>of</strong>a rectangle ; the principal front to the SW being 377feet long, and the wings each 148 feet. They aremostly two stories in height, and two towers are 100feet high. The asylum was erected in 1870-72, afterdesigns by Messrs Brown & Wardrop <strong>of</strong> Edinburgh, ata, cost, inclusive <strong>of</strong> site, <strong>of</strong> £46,600, and there is accommodationfor about 150 patients. "To the N <strong>of</strong> Darnick,and about 1 mile W <strong>of</strong> the town <strong>of</strong> Melrose, is a risinggi'ound,called Skinners or Skirmish Hill, the namebeing taken from the last great battle among theborderers proper in 1526. In that year, James V.,tired <strong>of</strong> the dominion <strong>of</strong> the Douglases, sent word,privately, to Scott <strong>of</strong> Buccleuch to come to his rescue.This Scott did, but the forces <strong>of</strong> Angus, Home, and theKerrs proved too strong for him, and his men fled.Pitscottie tells the story at length. The place is nowthe site <strong>of</strong> the Waverley Hydropathic Establishment.Erected in 1871, and enlarged in 1876, this is a fineedifice, with accommodation for 150 visitors. Its diningand drawing rooms each are 84 feet long ; and thereare also a news-room, library, two billiard rooms, etc.,besides every variety <strong>of</strong> bath. The grounds, 40 acres inextent, are tastefully laid out ; and the view around is<strong>of</strong> singular beauty.In common with the whole district, the parish sufferedseverely from the ravages <strong>of</strong> the English during Hereford'sinvasions in 1544-45, and at a later date, OliverCromwell gets the credit <strong>of</strong> having pounded the ruins<strong>of</strong> the abbey from the heights above Gattonside. Besidesthe churches in the town, which are noticed in thefollowing article, there are also Established and Freechurches in Galashiels, on the Melrose side <strong>of</strong> the Gala(Ladhope), and there is a U.P. church at Newtown.The civil parish contains the quoad sacra parish <strong>of</strong> Ladhope,which includes part <strong>of</strong> Galashiels. Ecclesiasticallythe parish is in the presbytery <strong>of</strong> Selkirk and the synod<strong>of</strong> Merse and Teviotdale, and the living is worth £482a year. In 1883 the following were the schools—allpublic but the last—under Melrose school-board, withtheir accommodation, average attendance, and Governmentgrant :—Blainslie (110, 64, £50, 17s.), Gattonside(87, 46, £37, 19s.), Glendinning Terrace (300, 342, £316,13s.), Langshaw (51, 35, £40), Melrose (300, 177, £165,Os. 6d.), and Newstead Subscription (86, 68, £46, 6s).Valuation (1864) £42,344, 8s. 2d., (1882) £43,757,16s. 8d., (1884) £39,900, 12s. 5d. Pop. (1801) 2654,(1831) 4339, (1861) 7654, (1871) 9432, (1881) 11,131, <strong>of</strong>22whom 4555 were in the ecclesiastical parish, and 6576in Ladhope quoad sacra parish. Ord. Sur., sh. 25,1865.The U.P. Church has a presbytery <strong>of</strong> Melrose, whiohholds it meetings in the town, and includes 2 churchesat Earlston, 3 at Galashiels, 3 at Hawick, 2 at Selkirk,and those at Innerleithen, Lauder, Lilliesleaf, Melrose,Newtown, and Stow.Melrose, a post town and burgh <strong>of</strong> barony, in thesouthern section <strong>of</strong> the parish just described, betweenthe Tweed and the northern base <strong>of</strong> the Eildon Hills.The station, on the Waverley section <strong>of</strong> the NorthBritish railway system, is 3| miles ESE <strong>of</strong> Galashiels,15-J N by E <strong>of</strong> Hawick, and 37i SE by S <strong>of</strong> Edinburgh.By road, the place is 7 miles NE by N <strong>of</strong> Selkirk, 11NW <strong>of</strong> Jedburgh, and 35 SE by S <strong>of</strong> Edinburgh. Thesituation and surroundings are very beautiful. Lookedat from about the town, the heights that border theTweed seem to close in at either end, so that the placenestles in the long hill girt hollow known as the Vale<strong>of</strong> Melrose. The town, which dates from very ancienttimes, was originally a small village called Fordel, andthe present name was transferred to it from Old Melroseat or shortly after the foundation <strong>of</strong> the abbey in 1136.It shared largely and constantly in the fortunes <strong>of</strong> themonks. During Hertford's invasion, in 1544-45, it wastwice plundered and destroyed; and though, after theReformation it struggled on for a time as the seat <strong>of</strong> asmall trade, it ultimately fell into poverty and decay, astate <strong>of</strong> matters that lasted well into the present century.Then the revival <strong>of</strong> the taste for Gothic architecturebrought the ruins <strong>of</strong> the abbey into prominence, andthis, and the associations <strong>of</strong> the district with Sir WalterScott, made it a tourist centre. The tourists werefollowed by people <strong>of</strong> independent means, who wereled by the beauty and amenity <strong>of</strong> the neighbourhood totake up here their occasional or permanent residence,and all these causes combined have given Melrose afresh start in prosperity. The town proper, which isthe Kennaquhair <strong>of</strong> the Ahhot and the Monastery, consists<strong>of</strong> 3 streets, branching <strong>of</strong>l^ from the corners <strong>of</strong> anopen triangular space, known as the market place, closeto the station. The street leading northward to Gattonside,and that passing southward by Dingleton, are bothnarrow and old, but High Street, which leads northwestwardstowards Galashiels, has been widened andimproved as new buildings have replaced old. Thesuburbs are principally lines and groups <strong>of</strong> villas, extendingabout a mile westward from the end <strong>of</strong> HighStreet, by Weirhill and High Cross. Many <strong>of</strong> the olderhouses <strong>of</strong> the town show, amid the general plainness <strong>of</strong>their walls, stones whose carvings prove that they havecome from the ruins <strong>of</strong> the abbey, at a time when itswalls were deemed <strong>of</strong> so little importance as to hepractically a quarry for whosoever chose. In the centre<strong>of</strong> the market place, supported by five courses <strong>of</strong> steps,stands the market cross, bearing the date <strong>of</strong> 1642, andsurmounted by the unicorn <strong>of</strong> the Scottish arms withmallet and rose. It seems to have replaced an older cross<strong>of</strong> some sanctity, which was destroyed in 1604. Apatch <strong>of</strong> land, called 'the Corse Rig,' in a field near thetown, is held by the proprietor on the condition <strong>of</strong> hiskeeping the cross in repair. Another cross, whichanciently stood on a spot about J mile to the W, borethe name <strong>of</strong> the High Cross, which it has bequeathedto the modern suburb around its site. The so-called jailhas long ceased to be used for that purpose, and the lowerpart is now a store for the victual feu-duties payable bythe Duke <strong>of</strong> Bucclengh's vassals, while the upper is occasionallyused as a public hall. It stands on the site <strong>of</strong> anolder jail, on a stone <strong>of</strong> which, that is still preserved,there is sculptured one <strong>of</strong> those anagrams that were fromtwo to thi'ee centuries ago somewhat common, :—viz.mason's 'mell' anda 'rose,'representing thename<strong>of</strong> theplace. In an old gabled house, bearing the date <strong>of</strong> 1635,which projected into the street opposite the King's ArmsHotel, but which is now demolished. General Leslieslept on the night before the battle <strong>of</strong> Philiphaugh. Asuspension bridge (1826) for foot-passengers crosses the
;:MELROSETweed to the N <strong>of</strong> the town, behind and a little below theAVeirhill, and connects Melrose with Gattonside. Tlicjiai-ish church, a plain and indeed somewhat ugly building,with a spire and clock, was erected in 1810, andstands on a rising ground—the Weirhill proper, theWeir being behind it—in the WeirhiU suburb. TheFree church, which stands on the same eminence, is aJiandsome building in the Early English style,mth aAvell proportioned spire, and containing 550 sittings.The IJ. P. and Congregational churches C£ul for no specialnotice. The former, which was built at High Cross in1S72 to replace a small barn-like structure in the town,contains 600 sittings ; the latter contains 250 sittings.Trinity Episcopal church, in the western part <strong>of</strong> WeirhDl,was built in 1849 after designs by Sir George GilbertScott. It is a tasteful building in the Early English style,with a good eastern window and a stone pulpit. It contains175 sittings. The cemetery is to the S <strong>of</strong> theFree church. The Corn Exchange, in the marketplace, was erected in 1862-63, after designs by Cousin,at a cost <strong>of</strong> about £3000, and is a large handsome structure,serving not only for sales and similar purposes,but also for lectures, concerts, and public meetings.The hall has accommodation for 500 people. The publicschools have been already noticed under the parish. Thewater-works belong to a joint-stock company (1838), andthe water, which is very pure, is obtained from springson the Eildon Hills. The reservoir has a capacity <strong>of</strong>about 35, 000 gallons. Gas is also supplied by a joint-stockcompany (1836) ; and the drainage system, which is by nomeans complete, and does not include the whole <strong>of</strong> thetown, was carried out by voluntary assessment. There arenow no industries, but the place was long famous for themanufacture <strong>of</strong> a fabric called Melrose-land linen, forwhich there was a demand in London as well as inforeign countries. So early as 1668 the weavers wereincorporated under a seal-<strong>of</strong>-cause from John, Earl <strong>of</strong>Haddington, the superior <strong>of</strong> the burgh, and for a considerableperiod preceding 1766 the quantity <strong>of</strong> linenstamped averaged annually between 23,000 and 2i,000j'ards, valued at upwards <strong>of</strong> £2500. i'owards the end<strong>of</strong> last century, however, the manufacture rapidly declined,and long ago became quite extinct. Cottonweavingfor the manufacturers <strong>of</strong> Glasgow which followedhad a short period <strong>of</strong> success, but soon also becameextinct. A bleachfield for linen, which still gives nameto a spot on the W slope <strong>of</strong> the Weir Hill, was also triedbut failed, and even the woollen trade, so singularl}'prosperous in some <strong>of</strong> the other Border townsj thoughtried, proved also a failure.Melrose, under the abbey, was a burgh <strong>of</strong> regalitybut in 1609, when the Abbey and lands were erectedinto a temporal lordship, it was made a burgh <strong>of</strong> barony,which status it still retains. There is a baron-baUieappointed by the present superior, the Duke <strong>of</strong>Buccleuch, but there are no burgh courts and no burghproperty, income, or expenditure. An ancient fair,held in spring, called Kier or Scarce-Thursday fair, waslong a famous carnival season ; but afterwards becamemerely a business market, and then died out altogether.The weekly corn and general market is on Mondayfairs for hiring are held, for hinds on the first Monday<strong>of</strong> March, for young men and women on the first Monday<strong>of</strong> May and the first Monday <strong>of</strong> November, and forharvest hands on the first Monday <strong>of</strong> August ; for cattleand horses on the first Wednesday <strong>of</strong> June and 22Nov., unless that day fall on Saturday, Sunday,or Monday, and then on the Tuesday following ; foriambs—the largest fair in the Border counties—on12 Aug., unless that day be a Saturday, Sunday, orMonday, and then on the Tuesdaj' following ; and forewes and other stock on the Saturday after the firstTuesday <strong>of</strong> October. These markets have now, however,almost disappeared, owing to the establishment <strong>of</strong>weekly cattle sales at Newtown St Boswells.The town has a head post <strong>of</strong>iice, with money order,savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments;branches <strong>of</strong> the British Linen Company and Royalbanks, agencies <strong>of</strong> 15 insurance companies, and 6 hotels.MELROSEA justice <strong>of</strong> peace court is held on the first Wednesday<strong>of</strong> every month, and sheriff small debt courts on theSaturdays after the second Monday <strong>of</strong> February andMay, after the first Monday <strong>of</strong> September, and afterthe second Monday <strong>of</strong> December. Among the miscellaneousinstitutions are two boarding schools foryoung ladies, a masonic hall, a public library,bowling, curling, and cricket clubs, a company <strong>of</strong> riflevolunteers, a horticultural and floral society, a branch<strong>of</strong> the Bible Society, and a branch <strong>of</strong> the Societyfor the Prevention <strong>of</strong> Cruelty to Animals. Themembers <strong>of</strong> the masonic lodge (St John's—not, however,in connection with the Grand Lodge) have, every year, onSt John's Eve, a torchlight procession round the abbey,and on Fastern's E'en a football match between themarried and unmarried men <strong>of</strong> the to^wn is kept upalong the main street from early afternoon till evening.Pop. <strong>of</strong> town (1841) 893, (1861) 1141, (1871) 1405,(1881) 1550, <strong>of</strong> whom 913 were females. Houses (1881)321 inhabited, 15 vacant, 7 building.The Abbey <strong>of</strong> Melrose, which is the great centre <strong>of</strong>attraction in the town, stands on low level ground tothe E, almost midway between the Eildons and theTweed. Coming in succession to the Columban establishmentalready noticed, but moved to a better site, it wasfounded by David I. in 1136, the monks, who were <strong>of</strong>the Cistercian order, ha^ving been brought from Rievalein Yorkshire. To them, and ' to their successors, for aperpetual possession,' David granted 'the lands <strong>of</strong>Melros, and the whole land <strong>of</strong> Eldune, and the wholeland <strong>of</strong> Dernwic ... all the fruits, ^and pasture,and timber in my land, and in the forest <strong>of</strong> Selkirk andTraquhair, and between Gala and Leadir Water, besidesboth the fishery on the Tweed everywhere, on their side<strong>of</strong> the river as on mine, and ... in addition, thewhole land and pasture <strong>of</strong> Galtuneside. ' The originalbuildings were not finished till 1146, in which year, on28 July, the church was, with great solemnity, consecratedand dedicated to the Virgin Mary. MalcolmIV. confirmed the grants <strong>of</strong> his predecessor, and addedfresh lands, as also did William the Lyon, in whosereign the monastic possessions increased greatly by giftsfrom the king, from Alan, his steward, and from thepowerful family <strong>of</strong> De Moreville ;and Laurence, Abbot<strong>of</strong> Melrose, was one <strong>of</strong> those who, along with the king,swore fealty to Henry II. at York in 1175. Standingnear the border, the Abbey could hardly fail to figurein many <strong>of</strong> the historical transactions <strong>of</strong> this troubloustime. It was in its chapter-house that the Yorkshirebarons, united against King John, swore fealty toAlexander II. in 1215. In 1295 Edward I. gave formalprotection to its monks, and in 1296, while resting atBerwick, after the apparent general submission <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scotland</strong>to his usurpation, he issued a writ ordering arestitution to them <strong>of</strong> all the property they had lost inthe preceding struggle. In 1321 or 1322 the originalstructure was burned by the English under Edward II.,and probably reduced to a state <strong>of</strong> entire ruin, whileWilliam de Peebles, the abbot, and a number <strong>of</strong> themonks were killed. This led to a grant from KingRobert I., in 1326, <strong>of</strong> £2000, to be obtained from hiswards, reliefs, maritages, escheats, fines, etc., in thesheriffdom <strong>of</strong> Roxburgh, and to be applied to the rebuilding<strong>of</strong> the church. The sum was a large one forthat time, and the whole amount was not realised tilllong after. In 1329, a few months before his death,Robert wrote a letter to his son David, requesting thathis heart should be buried at Melrose, and commendingthe monastery and the church to his successor's especialfavour—favour which was certainly given, for so late as1369 we find David rene\ving his father's gift. It is tothis grant that we owe a considerable part <strong>of</strong> the presentbuilding. The community, too, enjoyed the favour <strong>of</strong>some <strong>of</strong> the English kings, no less than that <strong>of</strong> its ownnative monarchs, for in 1328 Edward III. ordered therestoration to the abbey <strong>of</strong> pensions and lands which ithad held in England, and which had been seized byEdward II. In 1334 the same monarch granted a protectionto Melrose in common with the other abbeys <strong>of</strong>23
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;PETERHEADPETERHEADas ' Peterhead G
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——PETERHEADan Act of parliament