;PAISLEYsite the station is Old Sneddon Street, from the W end<strong>of</strong> which Back Sneddon Street (E), Love Street (centre),and St James Street and Caledonia Street along theGreenock Road (W) all branch <strong>of</strong>f. Many <strong>of</strong> the streets<strong>of</strong> the new town are named from the fabrics used in themanufactures <strong>of</strong> the town. The streets <strong>of</strong> the old townare narrow, and still contain many <strong>of</strong> the old houses <strong>of</strong>the 17th and ISth centuries, but changes in this respectare rapidly taking place, as may be seen in the widening<strong>of</strong> High Street and the many new buildings recentlyerected or still being built along it. On the risinggroundto the S there are a number <strong>of</strong> detached villas.To the N <strong>of</strong> the main line <strong>of</strong> streets is the railnaj'elevated above the level <strong>of</strong> the streets. The portionto the E <strong>of</strong> the station is used by both the Caledonianand Glasgow and South-Western companies, but atthe station the lines branch <strong>of</strong>f, the Caledonian passingnorth-westward towards Greenock, and the Glasgowand South-Western west - south - westward, tillnear Elderslie it sends <strong>of</strong>f a branch north-westwardto Greenock, while the main line passes on toAyrshire. The Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone Canal,after having lost a large portion <strong>of</strong> its trade, has nowbeen converted into a railway. In its palmy days it issaid to have carried over 300,000 passengers a year inits light passenger boats. So late as 1814 the onlycarriage communication with Glasgow was by a coach,which conveyed the cotton-spinners and yarn merchantsto town once a week on the mornings <strong>of</strong> market days,and brought them home in the evening.History.—The derivation <strong>of</strong> the name is somewhatdoubtful. The older forms are Passelet, Passeleth, andPasselay, for which the conjectural derivations havebeen given <strong>of</strong> ' the moist pasture-land ' from the BritishPasgel-laith, or the ' ilat stone shoal ' from the BritishBas-Ueh or the Gaelic Bas-leac, the latter derivationhaving reference to the ledge <strong>of</strong> rock running across thechannel <strong>of</strong> the White Cart near the town. In the 16thcentury the name was changed into Paslay and Pasley,and in the course <strong>of</strong> the 18th century it took its presentform. Paisley was tUl very recently looked on as the site<strong>of</strong> the Roman station <strong>of</strong> Vanduara, properly Vandogara,mentioned by Ptolemy, the identification resting mainlyon the resemblance <strong>of</strong> the name <strong>of</strong> the station to theBritish Gwen-dwr or 'white water,' which was supposedto have been the name then given to the WhiteCart. Principal Dunlop, writing in the end <strong>of</strong> the 17thcentury, and Crawford, who published his history <strong>of</strong>Renfrewshire in 1710, both describe Roman remains inthe neighbourhood. Principal Dunlop says : — 'AtPaisley there is a large Roman Camp to be seen. Theprstorium or innermost part <strong>of</strong> the camp is on thewest end <strong>of</strong> a rising ground, or little hill, called CapShawhead, on the south-east descent <strong>of</strong> which hillstandeth the town <strong>of</strong> Paisley. The prietorium is notvery large, but hath been well fortified with three fossesand dykes <strong>of</strong> earth, which must have been large, whento this day their vestiges are so great that men onhorseback will not see over them. The camp itself hathbeen great and large, it comprehending the whole hill.There are vestiges, on the north side, <strong>of</strong> the fosses anddyke, whereby it appears that the camp reached to theriver Cart. On the north side the dyke goeth alongstthe foot <strong>of</strong> the hill ; and if we allow it to have gone s<strong>of</strong>ar on the other side, it hath enclosed all the space <strong>of</strong>ground on which the town <strong>of</strong> Paisley stands, and it maybe guessed to be about a mile in compass. Its situationwas both strong and pleasant, overlooking the wholecountry. I have not heard that any have been socurious as to dig the ground into this prsetoriumbut when they tread upon it it gives a sound as ifit were hollow below, where belike there are some <strong>of</strong>their vaults. Near to this camp, about a quarter <strong>of</strong> amile, stand two other rises or little hills, the one to thewest, the other to the south, which with this makealmost a triangular form, where have been stations forthe outer guards. The vestiges <strong>of</strong> these appear andmake them little larger than the projtorium <strong>of</strong> theother camp <strong>of</strong> the same form, without any other forti-148PAISLEYfication than a fosse and a dyke.' The large camp musthave been at Oakshawhead, and the outposts at Woodsideand Castle Head, but the extension <strong>of</strong> the townhas now obliterated the traces <strong>of</strong> them. Gordon, in1725, traced a military road from the great ClydesdaleRoad at Glasgow, across the Clyde by a ford thatremained till 1772, and on to Paisley. In his CcUie<strong>Scotland</strong>, published in 1876 (Vol. i., p. 73), Dr Skenecombats the old view, objecting to the Gwen-dwr theoryon the principle that rivers do not change their names,and also giving reasons for thinking that Vandogarawas at Loudoun Hill, on the river Irvine in Ayrshire ;and so the matter rests.The iirst authentic reference to the present placemust, therefore, be supposed to be in 1157, when KingMalcolm IV. granted a charter in favour <strong>of</strong> Walter, theson <strong>of</strong> Alan, High Steward <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scotland</strong>, confirming agift (not now e.xtant) <strong>of</strong> certain extensive possessions,which King David had conferred on Walter. Landscalled Passeleth formed part <strong>of</strong> those specified in thegrant ; and on these lands, on the E bank <strong>of</strong> the river,Walter founded the famous Abbey <strong>of</strong> Paisley. Novillage appears to have been on the lands when themonastery was founded, but the opposite bank was soonoccupied by one inhabited by the retainers and kindly'tenants ' <strong>of</strong> the monks, to whom it belonged. Under thefostering care <strong>of</strong> the church, and belonging to an abbeyspecially favoured by the Bruces and Stewarts, it musthave thriven, and towards the end <strong>of</strong> the 15th centuryit had an opportunity <strong>of</strong> thriving still more, for AbbotShaw, who had sided with the rebellious nobles againstJames III., obtained from the new government in 1488a charter creating the village <strong>of</strong> Paisley a free burgh <strong>of</strong>barony, with 'the full and free liberty <strong>of</strong> buying andselling in the said burgh, wire, wax, woollen and linencloths, wholesale or retail, and all other goods andwares coming to it ; with power and liberty <strong>of</strong> havingand holding in the same place, bakers, brewers, butchers,and sellers both <strong>of</strong> flesh and fish, and workmen in theseveral crafts, . . . likewise to possess a cross andmarket for ever, every week, on Monday, and two publicfairs yearly, for ever ; namely one on the day <strong>of</strong> StMirren, and the other on the day <strong>of</strong> St Marnoch ; ' andin 1490 the abbot and chapter granted to the magistrates<strong>of</strong> the burgh in feu-farm tlie ground on which the oldtown stands, and certain other privileges. The neighbouringburgh <strong>of</strong> Renfrew, to which the Paisley peoplehad formerl}' been subject, looked on all this as aninvasion <strong>of</strong> its privileges, and entered into a series <strong>of</strong>quarrels with the new burgh, and even went the length<strong>of</strong> violently seizing goods exposed for sale in order tocompel payment <strong>of</strong> customs. The result <strong>of</strong> a lawsuitwas a decision in favour <strong>of</strong> the magistrates <strong>of</strong> Paisley,given, however, on the ground that that town laywithin the regality <strong>of</strong> the abbey, and was not thereforeincluded in the charter granted to Renfrew in 1396, asthe regality grant to the abbey was <strong>of</strong> prior date tothat given to the burgh. This settled the matter, andthe town remained subject to the abbot, and after theReformation to the commendator till 1658, when themagistrates purchased the superiority <strong>of</strong> the town andother privileges from William Lord Cochrane, who wasthen Lord <strong>of</strong> Paisley. In 1665 they obtained a royalcharter confirming the burgh in its lands and privileges,and in 1690 an act <strong>of</strong> parliament to allow them to holdtwo additional fairs. Prom this time, Paisley, holdingdirectly <strong>of</strong> the Crown, has had practically all the privileges<strong>of</strong> a royal burgh, except that down to the passing<strong>of</strong> the Reform Bill <strong>of</strong> 1832 it had no direct parliamentaryrepresentative. In 1489 King James IV. in the course<strong>of</strong> his military operations visited the town, and he washere again in 1504 and 1507. It was at Paisley that theLords <strong>of</strong> the Congregation assembled in 1565, but on theappearance <strong>of</strong> the royal troops at Glasgow they moved <strong>of</strong>fto Hamilton. In 1597 there was expectation <strong>of</strong> a visitfrom the Queen, and in 1617 James VI. himself made hisappearance at the abbey, where he was hospitably entertained; but there is a local tradition that 'the bailiessupplicated his Majesty not to enter into their bounds,
-PAISLEYtlieir common Imrse being then so miserably reduced tliattbey could not entertain liim with tliat sumptuousnessbefitting tlieir respective estates.' The next visit <strong>of</strong> amember <strong>of</strong> tlio royal family was that paid by the lateDuke <strong>of</strong> Albany, when at Blythswood House, in 1875.In 1588 and again in 1602 tlie town suffered severelyfrom the plague ; and the gates, <strong>of</strong> which there were thenfive—one at the Bridge, one at the foot <strong>of</strong> St MirenStreet, one in High Street, one in Moss Street, and onein the School Wynd—were guarded with great vigilance,while no person was allowed to admit any one into thetown by the gardens behind the houses. There wasanother outbreak <strong>of</strong> plague in 1645. In 1649 the townseems to have furnished a troop <strong>of</strong> horse for service inthe army that was defeated at Dunbar, and subsequentlythe magistrates again provided six troopers for serviceagainst the English — proceedings which procured for theinhabitants the presence <strong>of</strong> a garrison <strong>of</strong> Cromwelliansoldiers, whose support seems to have been felt as a veryheavy burden. Paisley does not seem to have sufferedso much as other places in the west during the Covenantingtroubles, but the Cross was the scene in 1685<strong>of</strong> the death <strong>of</strong> two farmers named Algie and Park fromthe neighbouring parish <strong>of</strong> Eastwood, who were executedfor refusing to take the oath <strong>of</strong> abjuration. They wereburied at the Gallowgreen, near the foot <strong>of</strong> MaxwelltonStreet ; but when it was to be built on in 1779 theirremains were removed to Broomlands burying-ground,which now forms part <strong>of</strong> the cemetery, and an obeliskwas there erected to their memory in 1835. Between1677 and 1697 a considerable number <strong>of</strong> reputedwitches were executed, but none <strong>of</strong> the cases exceptthat afterwards alluded to are <strong>of</strong> any general note.With the rest <strong>of</strong> the west the district hailed the Revolution<strong>of</strong> 16SS with great eagerness, and furnished its quotato the Renfrewshire men who went to Edinburgh to supportthe Convention. There is no record <strong>of</strong> the'behaviour<strong>of</strong> the burgh in connection with the Union in 1707, but in1715 we find a number <strong>of</strong> the townsmen binding themselvesto raise and maintain a body <strong>of</strong> men because' considering the immenent danger we are in from thethreatned invasion <strong>of</strong> the Pretender, and the dangerfrom many within our own bossoms that are to joynwith him, ... it lyes upon all honest men as theirindespensable duty to provid tymously for the defence<strong>of</strong> our Soveraign and our own sacred and civileinterests. ' In August <strong>of</strong> the same year a guard <strong>of</strong> 20men was set every night, two flags were purchased, anda number <strong>of</strong> muskets, and 20 men were sent to theDuke <strong>of</strong> Argyll at Stirling, and one hundred and twentyPaisley Volunteers also joined the expedition againstthe Macgregors [see LooH Lomond]. During the rebellion<strong>of</strong> 1745 Paisley raised a company <strong>of</strong> militia toaid the Hanoverian forces, and was in consequence fined£1000 by Prince Charles Edward when he was atGlasgow, £500 <strong>of</strong> which was paid. From this time till1819 the history <strong>of</strong> the town is connected with the development<strong>of</strong> trade, but in that year a body <strong>of</strong> Chartistsfrom Glasgow, who had been attending a great reformmeeting at Meiklerigs Moor, attempted to march throughthe town with flags contrary to an order <strong>of</strong> the magistrates.The police interfered, and serious rioting ensued,lasting for several days. The Paisley Chartists took anactive part in the Unions and in the intended rising on1 April 1820, and many <strong>of</strong> them had in consequence t<strong>of</strong>lee to America. Except the outbreaks <strong>of</strong> cholera in1832, 1834, and 1848, and the troubles thereby occasioned,the subsequent history <strong>of</strong> the place may be saidto be trading and niunicipahThe town is the Greysley' '<strong>of</strong> Alexander Smith's story<strong>of</strong> Alfred Hagart's HoiLsehold, where the town, as itappeared 50 years ago, and as in some respects it stillappears, is thus described ': Greysley had no variety <strong>of</strong>occupation. It was to all intents and purposes a weavingtown. During the entire day, in the old-fashioned,crooked side-streets, the monotonous click <strong>of</strong> the loomand the sharp whir <strong>of</strong> the shuttle were continuallyheard. While trade was brisk, Greysley stuck to itswork and lived well ; when depressed it stood in groups83PAISLEYabout the market-place and the corners <strong>of</strong> the streets,and in the evenings read and argued over the fiercest <strong>of</strong>political newspapers. Thirty years ago trade was gooJ ;and in the spring and summer evenings the weaver,having comfortably dined, bird-nested or botanised,and later still discussed European and local politics incozy taverns, went to bed with the idea that he was themost intelligent <strong>of</strong> human beings, and that Greysleygenerally was the axis on which the world revolved.In the eastern extremity <strong>of</strong> the town was an old abbeywith old graves about it, and at night the moon silveredvery prettily the broken arches and the fine traceries <strong>of</strong>the main window. Past the abbey, across the bridge,through the market-place and away westward, ran theprincipal street, till it disappeared in a sort <strong>of</strong> opensuburb <strong>of</strong> houses <strong>of</strong> one story, across whose windowpanesfestoons <strong>of</strong> birds' eggs were hanging, and onwhose window-sills flowers were blowing in summer,and where loom and shuttle were constantly heard. Inthe market-place was an inn, a picture <strong>of</strong> a ferociousSaracen, with a crooked scimitar, stuck upon the front<strong>of</strong> it like a hatchment ; and on market days, at the openwindows, groups <strong>of</strong> rosy-faced farmers were continuallysmoking and drinking ale. Beside the inn was a tallsteeple, with a dial with gilded hours ; and on a parapetbeneath the clock, Roman candles were displayed—thegrown-up inhabitants could remember—on great occasions,when a prince was born, or when Lord Wellingtongained another victory in Spain. Then Greysley had ariver which came flowing into it very prettily from themoors ; and at the entrance to the town, flanked oneither side by flour-mills, where meal was continuallyflying about, said river tumbled with creditable noiseand foam over a ridge <strong>of</strong> rocks. These rocks were regardedby the inhabitants with pride, and great was theuproar when the river came down after a day's rain, orbetter still, when a six weeks' frost broke up, and theboards <strong>of</strong> ice were wedged and jammed and crushed andbroken there. The river came into Greysley with abold look enough, but after its fall over the rocks it lostspirit, and sneaked through the town in a broad, shallowstream, which carters and their horses forded on occasion; at the further end <strong>of</strong> the town stood a small disconsolatequay, which seemed always waiting for vesselsthat never came. The scenery around Greysley wasdistinctly pretty. To the south rose a range <strong>of</strong> greenhills, and one with a taste for the picturesque couldhardly employ his time better than by walking to thesummit, and sitting down there for an hour. Therecould he see Greysley at his feet, blurred with smoke,with church spires and one or two tall chimneys stickingout <strong>of</strong> it. Beyond, the Hawkshead [Glasgow] river onits way to the sea ; in the other direction, to the northeast,the great smoky stain <strong>of</strong> Hawkshead ; and ifpossessed <strong>of</strong> a glass, he could discern the canal thatconnected that city with Greysley, and perhaps on itsway the long white passage-boat drawn by trottinghorses, and the black caps and scarlet jackets <strong>of</strong> theriders. He would see also woods and an old castle orso, a score <strong>of</strong> gentlemen's seats, and farm-houses withoutnumber, with the yellow stacks <strong>of</strong> last year yet standingin the comfortable yards. And he would be touchedby the silence and movelessness <strong>of</strong> the mighty landscape,for at the distance <strong>of</strong> a few miles man is invisible,the noise <strong>of</strong> his tools is unheard, his biggest citiesbecome smoky ant-hills ; and at the distance <strong>of</strong> a few!'yearsManufaclwcs and Trade.—The grant <strong>of</strong> erection <strong>of</strong>Paisley as a burgh <strong>of</strong> barony is interesting, as giving ussome knowdedge <strong>of</strong> the commoner articles then boughtand sold in the place, but we have little more indication<strong>of</strong> them till the close <strong>of</strong> the 17th century. In 1695 thepopulation is given as 2200, and about the same timePrincipal Dunlop tells us in his Description <strong>of</strong> RenfrewsMre that by the river boats came ' to Paisley withHighland timber and slates—6000 in a boat—fish <strong>of</strong> allsorts, and return with coal and lime.' There must toohave beeu manufactures by this time, for Crawford,whose History <strong>of</strong> Renfrewshire was published in 1710,149
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