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Ordnance Gazetteer of Scotland .. - National Library of Scotland

Ordnance Gazetteer of Scotland .. - National Library of Scotland

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—PAISLEYand granted to him and his heirs and assigns in fee,while he himself was created Lord Paisley. In 1652,his grandson and successor, the second earl, sold hisopulent lordship to the Earl <strong>of</strong> Angus, from whom nextyear the larger part <strong>of</strong> it was purchased hy LordCochrane, afterwards Earl <strong>of</strong> Dundonald. Large portionswere at different times sold by the Dundonaldfamily, and in 1764 what remained was repurchasedfrom Thomas, eighth Earl <strong>of</strong> Dundonald, by James,eighth Earl <strong>of</strong> Abercorn, to whose descendant, the Duke<strong>of</strong> Abercorn, it now belongs.The church, when entire, appears to have consisted<strong>of</strong> a nave, choir, N transept, and a chapel known as thechapel <strong>of</strong> St Mirren and St Columba, which occupies theplace where the S transept should have been. Thetotal outside length <strong>of</strong> the building has been 265 feet.Internally the nave is 93 feet long and 59^ wide, includingside aisles. The choir, which has no aisles, is 123Jfeet long and 32 wide ; and the transept is 35 feet wide,and the distance fi-om the N wall to the wall <strong>of</strong> StMirren's chapel is 92J feet, all these measurements beinginternal. The walls <strong>of</strong> the choir only rise a foot or twoabove the level <strong>of</strong> the ground, but the piscina andsedilia still remain, as well as the foundations <strong>of</strong> thepillars on which rose the central tower. The N transept,with its magnificent and finely traceried window,25 feet high and 18 wide, was saved from demolitionwith so much <strong>of</strong> the rest <strong>of</strong> the building, by being claimedabout 1768 by the heritors as their property. Thenave, the only part now ro<strong>of</strong>ed, is still used as the parishchurch <strong>of</strong> Abbey parish. The W front contains a doorwaywith an arcade on each side,and on one side is aturret with a staircase. Above the doorway are threewindows. The present eastern gable <strong>of</strong> the churchis in the centre merely a screen <strong>of</strong> modern masonryfilling up the arch beneath the western wall <strong>of</strong> thecentre tower. There is a porch at the W end <strong>of</strong> theN wall and at the E end <strong>of</strong> the S wall. On thewall <strong>of</strong> the former is a stone with the inscription inold English characters* Johes d. Lyhtgw abbas hujus monastii xx die mesis Januariiano dm mccccxxxiii elegit fieri sua sepultura.'The interior <strong>of</strong> the nave is fine, and the style <strong>of</strong> thetriforium is somewhat peculiar. On each side fivemassive clustered columns, 17 feet in height, divide thenave from the aisles, and the pillar on each side at theW end is much thicker than the others, as if they hadbeen meant originally to support the weight <strong>of</strong> western'towers. From the imposts <strong>of</strong> the columns springpointed arches with delicate and graceful mouldings.On the centre pillar to the south is sculptured in relief anantique coat <strong>of</strong> arms with grotesque supporters. Froma floor formed above the first tier <strong>of</strong> arches spring those<strong>of</strong> the tritbrium. They are large and semicircular,springing from clustered columns.' Within these archesare included two pointed ones, with a short columnbetween, and the space between the heads <strong>of</strong> theseminor arches and that <strong>of</strong> the principal arch is open andfinely cusped. From the top <strong>of</strong> the spandrils betweeneach pair <strong>of</strong> arches a semi-hexagonal projection standsoat supported by a double row <strong>of</strong> blocked corbels, whichin their turn are supported by grotesque figures thatseem as if groaning under the weight. The breadth <strong>of</strong>the triforium arches, as compared with their height,gives this part <strong>of</strong> the building a somewhat squat, not tosay ungraceful look. In the clerestory over eachcircular triforium arch are two windows, and theclerestory gallery, while passing through the wall overthe keystone <strong>of</strong> each triforium arch, passes out roundthe semi-hexagonal projection already mentioned, nodoubt to afford a perfectly solid wall over each <strong>of</strong> thenave pillars, so that there may be firmer support for thero<strong>of</strong>. The whole style is Decorated. On the S\V pillarare the old colours carried hy the Renfrewshire militiafrom 1803 to 1855 ; and built into the walls are someold monuments removed from the floor. The originalro<strong>of</strong> was finely groined, but <strong>of</strong> this only a small jiortiounear the \¥ end <strong>of</strong> the S aisle now remains. The whole154PAISLEYnave underwent repair in 1788-89, but until abouttwenty years ago it remained in a very miserable condition.'In 1859,' says Dr Cameron Lees, the historian<strong>of</strong> the Abbey, ' when I was inducted to the secondcharge, a more dreary place <strong>of</strong> worship it was impossibleto conceive. It was like a charnel house. The burialgroundoutside reached above the sill <strong>of</strong> the windows.The floor was earthen, and you were afraid if you stirredyour foot you would rake up some old bones that layuncomfortably near the surface.' Thanks to the exertions<strong>of</strong> the Rev. Mr Watson and <strong>of</strong> Dr Lees himself,several thousand pounds were collected and spent inremedying this state <strong>of</strong> things. The interior wascleared out and new pews put in. An organ wasintroduced, and many <strong>of</strong> the windows are now filledwith stained glass, the principal being windows to thememory <strong>of</strong> Mr Thomas Coats <strong>of</strong> Ferguslie, thfi Speirs<strong>of</strong> Elderslie, the Earl <strong>of</strong> Glasgow, and the Whites <strong>of</strong>Overtoun. One, placed as a memorial <strong>of</strong> Sir WilliamWallace, was inserted by the St Andrew's Society<strong>of</strong> Glasgow. In the W end <strong>of</strong> the N aisle is a muraltablet, apparently erected to the memory <strong>of</strong> JohnHamilton, the last abbot. The chapel <strong>of</strong> St Mirrenand St Columba, better known as the Sounding Aisle,is on the S side on the site <strong>of</strong> the S transept. It isabout 48 feet long by 24 wide, and the 15 feet <strong>of</strong> thefloor at the E end is higher than the rest. This chapelwas founded and endowed in 1499 by James Crawfurde<strong>of</strong> Kylwynnat, burgess <strong>of</strong> Paisley, and Elizabeth Galbraithhis spouse, who were buried within the church,where their tombstone is still to be seen. The landsgiven for the support <strong>of</strong> the chaplain were those <strong>of</strong> Seedhilland Wellmeadow. Near the SE corner is thepiscina, and beneath the great eastern window the altarhad stood. Beneath the window is a frieze, with threecarved compartments on the N side and seven on the Sside. What the figures represent is doubtful, but probablythe seven on the S represent the seven sacraments,viz., matrimony, communion, extreme unction, ordination,confirmation, penance, and baptism. The easternwindow is now filled with stained glass, placed there bythe Duke <strong>of</strong> Abercorn in 1879 in memory <strong>of</strong> those members<strong>of</strong> the Abercorn family who are here buried, thefamily vault being beneath. There are other twomonuments connected with the Abercorn family, butthe great object <strong>of</strong> interest is the altar tomb known asQueen Bleary's tomb, and believed to have been erectedin memory <strong>of</strong> Marjory Bruce, wife <strong>of</strong> Walter the highsteward, and only daughter <strong>of</strong> Robert Bruce, whowas killed by a fall from her horse at Knock, to thenorth <strong>of</strong> the town. According to Dr Boog, one <strong>of</strong> theministers <strong>of</strong> the parish, who wrote an account <strong>of</strong> it inthe Transactions <strong>of</strong> Socictt/ <strong>of</strong> Antiquaries <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scotland</strong>for 1831, this tomb has had rather a curious history.'It retained,' he says, ' its original situation till John,Earl <strong>of</strong> Dundonald, who succeeded his brother Williamin 1704, having for his second lady married tlie Duchess-Dowager <strong>of</strong> Beaufort, her grace wishing, it is said, tohave the chapel fitted up for the service <strong>of</strong> the Church<strong>of</strong> England ; the tomb was then removed and placed ina corner <strong>of</strong> the Abbey Garden. This must have beenprior to 1720, when Earl John died ; his lady survivedbut a short time. The tomb, rebuilt in its originalform, occupied this corner till the time that Thomas,Earl <strong>of</strong> Dundonald, resolving to feu <strong>of</strong>f that part o. thegarden,found it in his way, and had it again removedor rather taken to pieces ; and the stones <strong>of</strong> which itwas composed were then laid aside and iorgotten—somuch forgotten that the writer <strong>of</strong> this, whose connectionwith'Paisley took place in 1774, was above fourteenyears in the place before knowing that such a monumenthad existed, or that its materials might possiblybe discovered.' When the church was repaired, however,in 1788-89, the stmies were found, and Dr Boog,had themwith a care that does him the highest credit,carefully put together, though it was found that onesidestone and one end stone were awanting. The figureitself had been left in the chapel, sunk in the pavementclose by one <strong>of</strong> the walls.Whether it represents Lady

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