;—'—PAISLEYthe reference library contains nearly 6000 volumes.The nucleus <strong>of</strong> the contents <strong>of</strong> the museum and over5000 <strong>of</strong> the books in the valuable reference library werepresented by the Paisley Philosophical Society, whichwas originally established in 1808. Other publicbuildings are the Baths, the Good Templars' Hall (1881),the Masonic Hall (1884), the Liberal Club, the ConservativeClub (1880), the Oakshaw Memorial School, andthe DriU Hall. The barracks in the suburb <strong>of</strong> Williamsburgh,to the E <strong>of</strong> the town, on the S side <strong>of</strong>the Glasgow road, erected in 1822, and with accommodationfor a battalion <strong>of</strong> infantry, are now disused andempty. On the opposite side <strong>of</strong> the road are the militiabarracks. The C<strong>of</strong>fee-room buildings at the Cross,erected in 1809, Ionic in style, contain a large readingroom,with Fillans' bust <strong>of</strong> Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Wilson, and one<strong>of</strong> Lord Clyde. The Exchange buildings on the E side<strong>of</strong> Moss Street, erected in 1837, and occupying thesite <strong>of</strong> a former flesh market, are now partly used as atheatre. The infirmary, in Bridge Street, dates from1784, but the present building was erected about 1850.It has accommodation for 250 patients. About 1000indoor patients and from 4000 to 5000 outdoor patientsare treated annually. The dispensary attached is openevery day from 11 to 12 o'clock, and medicine is dispensedbetween 4 and 5. The poorhouse for Abbeyparish, about a mile SSW <strong>of</strong> the town near Riccartsbar,is an Elizabethan structure (1850), with buildingsdisposed round two courts, and with accommodationfor 555 inmates. Beside it is the parochial lunaticasylum, which has accommodation for 98 inmatesand further W is the burgh lunatic asylum, erectedin 1876. This has a main building <strong>of</strong> T shape, with alarge entrance-hall and kitchen, dining-hall, etc. , in thecentral portion. The wards for male and femalepatients are on each side, and the engine-house, washing-houseand laundry, are behind the main building.The cost, exclusive <strong>of</strong> site, was £12,500, and there isaccommodation for 120 patients. The cemetery, laidout in 1845, is on Woodside ridge in the old town, andincludes the old Broomlauds churchyard, which was laidout about 1779. It is beautifully situated and laid out,and contains some good monuments, including that toAlgie and Park already noticed ; one erected by publicsubscription in 1867 in memory <strong>of</strong> the Chartists, Hardie,Baird, and Wilson, who were executed at Stirling andGlasgow in 1820 ; one to Fillans, with a fine figure <strong>of</strong>Rachael weeping for her children ; one to the Rev.Patrick Brewster (1788-1859), long minister <strong>of</strong> theAbbey church ; and one to Andrew Park (1807-63), alocal poet. There are also burying-grounds at several<strong>of</strong> the churches.Three bridges cross the river Cart (exclusive <strong>of</strong> therailway bridges), and connect the old and new towns.The old stone bridge at the end <strong>of</strong> High Street used tobe very narrow and inconvenient, as were also the othertwo, but under the Improvement Act <strong>of</strong> 1877 they haveall been greatly widened and improved, the old Sneddon*Bridge (now known as Abercorn Bridge) and Seedhillor Abbey Bridge having been reconstructed with irongirders, and the Old Bridge itself again farther improvedin connection with the erection <strong>of</strong> the ClarkHall. When the first tolbooth was erected is notexactly known — seemingly by Abbot Tervas in the15th centm-y—but by the middle <strong>of</strong> the 18th centurythe existing one had become very insecure, and in 1756the magistrates resolved to erect a new one at the Cross,on the -same site, at a cost <strong>of</strong> £325. It had a steeple <strong>of</strong>considerable height, wliich remained tiU 1870. It wasperfectly sound till 1868, but in that year a deep draindug near it injured the foundation, which had alreadybecome somewhat insecure in consequence <strong>of</strong> the streetlevel having been lowered, and it began to lean over ina dangerous manner. It was at first shored up, but wasordered to be taken down in 1869. An unsuccessfulattempt was made to interdict the magistrates fromremoving it, and it disappeared completely in 1870. It* Sneddon was acquired by the town in 1655 and feued in 1749.The name is supposed to be a corruption <strong>of</strong> Snowdoun.152PAISLEYwas at the Cross Steeple that public executions latterlytook place, and the bats to which the gibbet was.fastened are now in the museum. The Abbey groundswere first feued in 1757 by Lord Dundonald, and a considerableportion <strong>of</strong> the Abbey ruins were used asbuilding material by the feuars in the erection <strong>of</strong> thehouses adjoining the Abbey. Some <strong>of</strong> these wereremoved in 1874, including the town houses <strong>of</strong> Abercornand Dundonald, but others still remain. A house inHigh Street in the old Scottish style, with the arms <strong>of</strong>the Sempills on its front, was erected in 1862 on thesite <strong>of</strong> Lord SempiU's old town mansion. In 1618 thetown council erected a To^vn's Hospital on the N side <strong>of</strong>High Street with materials taken from the old chapel <strong>of</strong>St Roque, and part <strong>of</strong> the building became subsequentlya school. In 1723 the old building was taken down,and a new one erected, which contained a public halland a clock steeple known as the 'Wee Steeple,' inwhich there was a bell which was rung when funeralswere passing. On one part <strong>of</strong> it was the inscriptionand on another*He that hath pitie on the porOf grace and mereie sail be sor ;'Quha gives the puir, to God he lend9,And God, again, mare grace him sends.'The school was removed to a building in School Wyndin 1788, and in 1807 the whole buildings were disposed<strong>of</strong>, and the house No. 82 High Street erected on thesite. The house in which Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Wilson—ChristopherNorth—was born, on the S side <strong>of</strong> High Street,and another house in which he spent his boyhood, alsoin High Street immediately to the W, both still remaindirectly opposite the Free <strong>Library</strong>, though the first hasbeen altered. The position <strong>of</strong> the house in which thepoet Tannahill was born, iu Castle Street, is marked bya tablet placed on the house that now occupies the site ;and the house in which he spent most <strong>of</strong> his life andwrote most <strong>of</strong> his songs— a cottage built by his fatherstill stands in Queen Street farther to the W. The house,in Seedhill, in which the poet and American ornithologist,Alexander Wilson, was born, was demolished in 1841, butthe house by which it was replaced is marked by a marbletablet with the inscription—' This tablet was erected in1841 by David Anderson, Perth, to mark the birthplace<strong>of</strong> Alexander Wilson, Paisley, poet and American ornithologist.'A statue <strong>of</strong> Wilson was erected within theAbbey grounds in 1874 at a cost <strong>of</strong> about £700. Itconsists <strong>of</strong> a bronze statue 7 feet 6 inches high, restingona pedestal <strong>of</strong> grey granite 10 feet high. The figure,which was modelled by J. G. Mossman, Glasgow, showsthe naturalist leaning against the stump <strong>of</strong> a tree witha bird in his hand, while his gun is behind him, hishat and portfolio at his feet, and his favourite blueparrot close at hand. Not far distant is the bronzestatue erected in 1883 as a memorial <strong>of</strong> Tannahill thepoet. The statue is 7 feet 6 inches high, and is set ona red granite pedestal. The motive is furnished by abronse bas-relief affixed to the front <strong>of</strong> the pedestal.This shows three country girls,is singing from a ballad which she holds in her hand,while her companions listen. There is a tradition thatTannahill during a solitary country walk once hearda group <strong>of</strong> girls thus intently occupied with one <strong>of</strong> hisown songs, and the statue here represents the poet inthe supposed attitude <strong>of</strong> an unseen listener. The statueand bas-relief Avere designed and executed by D. W.Stevenson, A.R.S.A., Edinburgh. The total cost wasabout £1200, and the funds were provided by a series <strong>of</strong>concerts which have been given for the last eight ornine years on the braes <strong>of</strong> Gleniffer. It is proposedalso to erect a bronze statue in memory <strong>of</strong> Mr ThomasCoats <strong>of</strong> Ferguslie ; and thus the town is by degreeswiping away the old reproach laid to its charge thatalthough Paisley had produced so many famous men,monuments in honour <strong>of</strong> them were less numerous thanin some towns that had produced few or none. TheFountain Gardeus, on the N side <strong>of</strong> the town betweenLove Street and Caledonia Street, and extending to over<strong>of</strong> whom the centre one
——PAISLEYPAISLEY7 acres, were acquired and laid out, at a cost <strong>of</strong> about£20,000, by Mr Thomas Coats <strong>of</strong> Ferguslie, and handedover by him to the town in 1S68. The ground wasoriginally laid out early in the present century by anold citizen Mr John Love, and was named Hope TempleGardens. Before his deatli in 1827, Mr Love's affairsbecame embarrassed, and the ground was, by his trustees,let as an orchard, till it was acquired by Mr Coatsin 1866. The site was then well laid out and belts andclumps <strong>of</strong> trees planted between the walks, which convergeon a central fountain. One <strong>of</strong> the trees is an oakgrown from an acorn taken from the celebrated WallaceOak <strong>of</strong> Eklerslie. In 1877 an additional place <strong>of</strong> recreationfor the public was provided at Carriage Hill to theS <strong>of</strong> the town. This was the ground known as theBrodie Park, which was bequeathed for that purpose byMr Kobert Brodie in 1871. It covers about 22 acres,and, inclusive <strong>of</strong> the sum spent in laying it out, costabout £19,000. The central part <strong>of</strong> the racecourse tothe NW <strong>of</strong> the town, about 40 acres in extent, is nowalso available for purposes <strong>of</strong> public recreation, and issometimes spoken <strong>of</strong> as St James's Park.Churches. — The most prominent <strong>of</strong> the churches is <strong>of</strong>course the part <strong>of</strong> the old Abbey <strong>of</strong> Paisley which is stillused as the parish church for Abbey parish. Theremains <strong>of</strong> the Abbey are on the E side <strong>of</strong> the Cartopposite the Clark Hall. It was founded about 1163by Walter, High Steward <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scotland</strong>, for monks <strong>of</strong> theCluniac order <strong>of</strong> reformed Benedictines, and its firstinmates came from the Cluniac priory <strong>of</strong> Wenlock inShropshire, the High Steward's native county. Theywere originally settled at Renfrew, but afterwards transferredtheir place <strong>of</strong> residence to Paisley, where, findinga church already dedicated to St Mirren or Mirinus, aconfessor who is said to have spent a considerable part<strong>of</strong> his life at the place, and who, according to theAberdeen Breviary, was buried there, they combined hisname with those <strong>of</strong> St James and <strong>of</strong> their patron saint atWenlock, St Milburga, grand-daughter <strong>of</strong> Penda, king<strong>of</strong> Mercia, and so dedicated the monastery church to StJames, St Milburga, and St Mirren. The monasterywas so richly endowed by the founder and his successors,as well as by the Lords <strong>of</strong> Lennox, that it soon becameone <strong>of</strong> the most opulent houses in <strong>Scotland</strong>, nonesurpassing it except St Andrews, Kelso, Dunfermline,and Arbroath. Until 1219 it was only a priory, but itthen received a bull from Pope Honorius constituting itan Abbe}' and separating it from the parent house atWenlock, a privilege confirmed in 1334 by Pope Benedict,who declared the abbot entitled to wear a mitreand ring, and the other marks <strong>of</strong> his dignity. Whatmay have been the nature <strong>of</strong> the original buildingsit is impossible to tell, for they were burned bythe English in 1307 during the war <strong>of</strong> independence,and seem to have been almost entirely destroyed, and,notwithstanding that the Stewarts had their residenceat hand, and that the abbey was their family burialplace before their accession, and even occasionally afterwards,for both the queens <strong>of</strong> Robert II. were buriedhere as well as Robert III., but little seems to havebeen done towards rebuilding or repair till the 15thcentury, although in 1380 a charter was obtained fromRobert II. erecting the lauds <strong>of</strong> the Abbey in Dumbartonshireinto a jurisdiction <strong>of</strong> regality, and anotherfrom Robert III. in 1396 erecting the estates in Renfrew,Ayr, Roxburgh, and Peebles into a similar jurisdiction.The powers <strong>of</strong> the abbot were afterwards still fartherextended in 1452 by James II., who granted to the regalitycourt the power <strong>of</strong> trying the four crown pleas;and again in 1488 by James IV., who added the power<strong>of</strong> 'repleging' the tenants and inhabitants <strong>of</strong> theabbey estates from the king's courts. The greater part<strong>of</strong> the buildings now existing seem to have been erectedby Abbot Thomas Tervas, who died in 1459, and Abbot•George Shaw (1472-99). Of the former the AuchinleckChronicle says that he wes ane 'richt gud man andhelplyk to the plaoe <strong>of</strong> ony that ever wes, for he didmony notabil things and held ane nobil hous and wes.ay wele purvait. He fand the place al out <strong>of</strong> gud reuleand destitute <strong>of</strong> leving and al the kirkis in lordis handiaand the kirk unbiggit. The body <strong>of</strong> the kirk fra thebucht stair up he biggit, and put on the ruf and theekit itwith sclats, and riggit it with stane, and biggit anegreat porcioun <strong>of</strong> the steple and ane staitlie yet hous,and brocht hanie mony gud jowellis and clathis <strong>of</strong> gold,silver, and silk, and mony gud bukis, and made stateliestallis and glassynnit mekle <strong>of</strong> al the kirk, and brochthame the staitliest tabernakle that wes in al Skotland,and the maist costlie ; and schortlie he brocht al theplace to fredome and fra nocht till ane michty placeand left it out <strong>of</strong> al kind <strong>of</strong> det and al fredome, till disponeas them lykit, and left ane <strong>of</strong> the best myteris thatwas in Skotland, and chandillaris <strong>of</strong> silver and anelettren <strong>of</strong> brass with mony uther gud jowellis.' AbbotGeorge Shaw, a younger son <strong>of</strong> Shaw <strong>of</strong> Sauchie inStirlingshire, besides adding to the buildings, surroundedthe abbey gardens and grounds by amagnificent stonewall, which ran from the N transept along the line <strong>of</strong>Lawn Street to the Wall Neuk, where it turned and ranalong the line <strong>of</strong> Inkle Street ; it then turned to the Sby the edge <strong>of</strong> Mill Road till it terminated at the Pigeonhouseon the edge <strong>of</strong> the Cart, close to the waterfall atSeedhill mills. A stone with the inscription in oldEnglish characters—'Thei callit ye Abbot Georg <strong>of</strong> Scbawe,About yis Abbay gart mak jis waw ;A thousande four hundreth zheyrAuchty and f.vve, the date but ueir.Pray for his salvatiouuThat made this nobil fuudacioun 'taken from the wall was formerly placed over the lintel<strong>of</strong> the door <strong>of</strong> a dwelling-house at tlie corner <strong>of</strong> LawnStreet and Inkle Street, but it is now fixed to the wallE <strong>of</strong> the door <strong>of</strong> the Public <strong>Library</strong>. The fifth line <strong>of</strong>the inscription was effaced by order, it is said, <strong>of</strong> one<strong>of</strong> the presbyterian ministers <strong>of</strong> the burgh, who thoughtit savoured too much <strong>of</strong> prayer for the dead. Grose saysthat in his time there was at one <strong>of</strong> the corners <strong>of</strong> thewall a statue <strong>of</strong> the Virgin with the motto below :*Hac ne vade via nisi dixeris Ave MariaSit semper sine vae, qui tibi dicet Ave.'The wall remained nearly entire till 1781, when theEarl <strong>of</strong> Abercorn sold the stones to the feuars <strong>of</strong> thenew town, who used them for building their houses, anda portion near Seedhill Bridge remained till after themiddle <strong>of</strong> the present century. The first tower that waserected seems to have had insecure foundations, as it fell.The last abbot, John Hamilton (1525-45), rebuilt itat immense cost, but about the close <strong>of</strong> the century itagain ' fell with its own weight, and with it the Quire<strong>of</strong> the church ; ' at least so says Hamilton <strong>of</strong> Wishaw,but another account states that it was struck by lightning.In 1557 a body <strong>of</strong> Reformers attacked the abbey,burnt all the ymages and ydols and popish stuff in the'same,' and drove the monks out <strong>of</strong> the building, butowing to the somewhat unusual attachment <strong>of</strong> thepeople to the old faith, the abbey was ' steyked ' againstthe reforming preachers, and in 1563 the charge wasbrought against the abbot <strong>of</strong> ' in the town <strong>of</strong> Paslay,Kirkyard and Abbey place there<strong>of</strong>, openlie, publiclie,and plainlie, taking auricular confession in the saidkirk, toun, kirkyaird, chalmeries, barns, middens,killogies there<strong>of</strong>,' but he seems to have got <strong>of</strong>f lightly.Although John Hamilton had properly ceased to beabbot in 1546, he retained the abbacy, by consent <strong>of</strong> thequeen, in trust for his nephew. Lord Claud Hamilton.He adhered to the cause <strong>of</strong> Queen Mary, and was consequentlyin 1568 declared a traitor by Regent Murray,and in 1671 captured and hanged. Lord Claud, havingbeen present at the battle <strong>of</strong> Langside in the Queen'sinterest, was forfeited, and the lands <strong>of</strong> the abbey werebestowed on Robert, son <strong>of</strong> William Lord Sempil, till1585, when Lord Claud returned from England and wasrestored to his property and rights. Two years laterthe whole property which he had held hitherto merelyas commendator, was erected into a temporal lordship,153
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Beauly Priory, Inverness-shire.^.^
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ORDNANCE JOHN BARTHOLOMEW EDINBURGH
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