It's your first time ski-touring - Alpinschule OASE-Alpin

16 th – 20 th April: Obergurgl. 

Base camp: Karlsruher Hütte 2430m 

Mountain Guide: Simon Bartl, OASE Alpin Bergschule 

Participants: Dieter, Miranda, Peter and Sonja 

It’s your first time ski touring? 

You dream of the mountain summit ahead of you, leaving the green pine trees behind you 

with all the noise, the cacophony of people careering in straight lines down a prepared slope 

and the queues at the modern 6-person chair lifts with added comfort cone-head covers. 

You are yearning for the solitude, the quietness, and the wide-open fresh slopes where no 

one has been before you? You’ve seen the black and white photos of your parents sallying 

the mountains in 50’s gear all on their own? You see yourself looking back with more than a 

grain of pride at the perfect tracks as you leave your visiting card on the upper slopes? To 

enjoy skiing without the stress… taking time as you pace it…. Being at one with nature? 

Yes, those were the romantic thoughts that filled my mind in the run-up to my first tour. 

Be warned…reality is never far away. 

Day 1: Down Town Obergurgl to Karlsruher Hütte; 2430m 

Simon Bartl from the OASE mountain 

climbing school was already at the 

Obergurgl parking lot to meet us at 

09.25am. In his dark red Transit Van 

with Garmisch Partenkirchen number 

plate, he made a pleasant, but 

professional impression on us. 

Casually, yet with method, he laid out 

the various equipment on the 

ground: Touring skis, extendable skisticks, 

Harscheisen, ropes, collapsible 

shovels, Karabiners, avalanche 

transceivers and mountaineering 

belts. Somehow it still didn’t strike 

me that this equipment was destined 

to be carried by me up a 3000m 

mountain… furthermore, I didn’t even 

recognize the function of half of this 

stuff! 

© 2004 :Recollections.doc by Miranda Bellchambers Page 1 of 10

As Simon looked at our Rucksacks, it became apparent that the next surprise was in store. 

Yes, we had read the instructions about what to bring, what not to bring, how much to bring 

etc. But hey… it all fitted in the rucksack! 

The next 5 minutes was rather strange. This quite agreeable chap Simon proceeded to 

empty all the contents of our carefully packed rucksack into the boot of our car explaining 

that 75% of it was mostly superfluous. 

“You‘ve a sun cream in your jacket… so 

you don’t need all these other creams.” 

“Two pairs of socks are enough” 

“What do you want a hairdryer for?” 

Strangely enough, all cheese, bread and 

meat spread foodstuffs were allowed to 

be taken with us! 

And to tell the truth, he saved our backs 

and shoulders for the next 5 days! 

We carried all our kit with our lightened rucksacks on our backs through Obergurgl downtown, 

and set touring ski complete with skins to snow at the basis lift and made our first 

hesitant sliding paces through the piste. It was 10.00am. And by some miracle, the skins 

worked. We were able to gracefully slide one ski forward whilst the second ski dutifully held 

its position. 

We continued upward and intuitively learned that the skin needs to be firmly pounded in the 

snow to ensure the correct grip. Was this the reason why my father had always stomped his 

ski on the snow whenever we had to walk uphill? Just following the old routines? 

As we progressed, it became painfully apparent that we were not fit. Don’t get me wrong… I 

go to the gym twice maybe even three times a week, and although I might not be the 

youngest in this world, I would consider myself to be in good nick. But we weren’t even an 

hour gone, and I was huffing and puffing my way up the 1800m mark, requiring pauses 

every 20 minutes. “Why don’t we stop here and admire the views?“ I pitifully cried, realizing 

that this was not what I imagined touring would be about! 

A stop at the Schönwieshütte was a welcome relief. The weather was excellent, and the 

views impressive. A cool drink and a soup 

were just the ticket! By 1.30pm we were 

off again, trudging up the mountain. 

Luckily Sonja, a kind South German midwife, 

kept with me… it was a very onesided 

conversation since I was in no state 

to utter 5 words in one coherent sentence 

between my gasps for breath, but since 

we had never met before, I guess she put 

it down to another Englishwoman only 

being able to speak a pittance of German. 

“Don’t worry” she assured me “once you 

find your rhythm, you’ll be flying up the 

mountain”. Didn’t she realize that I was 

struggling to find a rhythm? Any rhythm for that matter! 


By 3.30pm and various stops, pauses, rests, we had made it to the Karlsruhe Hütte 

(Langtalereckhütte) at 2430m; a simple affair with 14 bunk beds in each dormitory and a 

cosy dining area adjacent to the kitchen. This was to be our home for the next 4 nights. 

At 4.30pm, Simon gave us our search and find lessons in using our avalanche transceivers; 

an electronic unit that is switched on upon leaving the hut, and which constantly emits a 

radio signal that can be pinpointed by another transceiver should the necessity arise. With 

the mountains rising up to 3000m around us, and the sun setting behind us, I felt a raw 

excitement at the prospect of our first tour. This was bolstered by our evening planning 

discussion, where Simon showed us the 1:25 000 scale maps, explaining to us that we would 

manage 350m and roughly 4km in distance in one hour and instructed us in understanding 

how the weather can affect the snow and avalanche conditions. We were to head up the 

Langtaler Ferner! 

Day 2: Blasen Tal (Blister Valley) officially known as the Langtaler Ferner; 3472m 

Up at the crack of dawn and a quick face and hand wash and down for breakfast. “So who 

was that snoring last night? He didn’t even snore continuously! It was right in my eardrum!” 

This was the standard conversation at every breakfast. And this was the standard view from 

the dining room: 

By 7am at about –5°C we were ready to go. 

And even though it was cold, Simon advised 

us not put too many layers on as we would 

be warming up really quickly. 

Having checked that our transceivers were 

functioning correctly, we started to make 

headway East into a long valley up to the 

Langtaler Ferner. Everything was silent, just 

the noise of the skis in the snow and my own 

heartbeat and breathing. The crazy thing 

was, the scenery was magnificent, but it was 

impossible to appreciate it. The sheer 

concentration in keeping up with Simon’s slow but adequate pace led my eyes to become 

focused on his skis in front of me. My thoughts began to wander to times in my life that 

were almost dead and forgotten; a kind of trance meditation whilst in motion. This is a 

prevalent aspect of ski touring that certainly didn’t cross my mind when I started to toy with 

the idea of ski touring, but is definitely a phenomenon of this sport! 

And slowly but surely, I found my rhythm. A continuous pace of putting one ski in front of 

the other with a break for hot tea or a muesli bar every hour or so. Lunch consisted of a 

wonderful picnic. Everyone offered their tuck boxes around, and splendid array of English 

Cheddar Cheese, German Leberwürst, dark brown corn bread and plenty of hot tea was 

consumed against a background of snow-capped mountains. This is what Touring was all 

about! 


We stood at 2540m before a slope covered with old snow, the Hintere Ackerlen. This was 

where we were going to learn the art of kick-turns (or as they say “Spitzkehren”). This is 

essential for climbing up a steep slope. Simon would tack from left to right, and at each 

corner, he would firmly set the upper ski at 120 degrees to the lower ski, and then with the 

full weight on this upper ski, he would kick the lower ski into the valley, which would then 

automatically turn parallel to the upper ski, to be brought in above it. In order to support 

the rhythm that I was slowly but surely beginning to acquire, I would triumphantly call the 

number of kick-turns we had achieved with an “Amigos” at the end. On that first day, we 

achieved a total of 28 Amigos! 

We continued upwards through the Seelen Ferner in the direction of the Hintere Seelenkogel 

and by about 2pm, we were right up there amongst the glaciers. Simon would call to us 

when we should adjust our binding from Position 1 to a higher Position 2, allowing us to 

tackle the steeper climbs with more ease. 

The glacier was an absolute marvel and in 

the distance we could see tracks from other 

intrepid ski tourers following it’s edge. 

Simon encouraged us to go further “Just another hour, and we’re at the summit”. It worked! 

Skis off, rucksacks set down, eyes closed and I rested myself in the snow at 3430m. The 

others trolled up the last 42m to the summit cross at 3472m and congratulated themselves 

with a hearty Berg Heil! 

The ski down was gorgeous… 

virgin powder snow and 1000m 

drop in front of us. Perfect! Long 

swings and short gay swings 

(Kurze Schwulenschwunge); we 

were able to leave our tracks in 

the snow and look back at them 

with pride. This is what Ski 

touring is all about! 

We got back exhausted to the Karlsruher Hütte by 5pm and enjoyed a relaxing sun bath on 

their terrace, once we had got our slippers back from 12 British Royal Navy and Royal 

Marines on their annual ski tour adventure. 


But we had one problem: Dieter had not sufficiently tightened his ski boots on the way up 

and the result was a multitude of blisters on his feet. We patched them up as best as we 

could, but the damage had already been done. The long haul up the Blasen Tal would have 

serious results for the rest of the Tour. 

After wolfing down a home made evening meal with a glass of local red wine, it was back 

into the planning round with Simon. The weather was set to be another classic day… blue 

sky and sunshine. This time we were to head up to Hangerer Ferner and then to drop Sonja 

off at the Schönwieser Hütte, so that she could make her way back home. I couldn’t wait! 

Day 3: Killer Tour! Scharte; 3228m 

We were up as the sun was hitting the summits of the mountains around us, and the sky 

was as blue as only the sky can be. We waved goodbye to the Brits as they proceeded up 

towards the Kleinleitner Ferner with 50kg Rucksacks and a mixture of Teller mark and 

Touring skis. Did they really know where they were going? At least they had entered in the 

Hütten-book their planned destination; whether they would find it would be another matter! 

It was cold outside, and we noticed this on our immediate ascent Eastwards towards 

Eiskögele. We pounded our Harscheisen into the crusty ice, making sure that the metal teeth 

dug deep for a good hold. 

The last part of the ascent beginning at 

3000m was however so steep, that we could 

only manage it on foot. That meant packing 

the skis onto the rucksacks and meticulously 

following Simon’s footsteps. Now I was never 

one for heights, and Dieter’s feet were in 

trouble. Luckily Peter and Simon took our 

skis on as well, and we gingerly edged our 

way, foot hole for foot hole, up to just below 

the top of Scharte at 3133m. 

As we looked behind us across the valley, we could see the 

Brits going up what we thereafter christened the “Engländer 

Schlucht” (English Ravine). 

We proceeded up the Innere Hochebenkar until we reached the 

Hochebenferner at 2900m where we took a pause for hot tea 

and muesli bars. Simon recommended that we continue to 

stand in order to keep our muscles warm, but the temptation to 

lie down in the snow was too great! It wasn’t long before we 

were back in the rhythm using Position 2. 

© 2004 :Recollections.doc by Miranda Bellchambers Page 5 of 10 

.

The climb was to be rewarded… a view of 

deep powder snow on the other side of the 

ridge and enough space for us to make our 

own tracks in the powder. As Dieter, Sonja 

and I rested, Peter and Simon made their 

way up to the summit at 3228m, enjoying an 

off-piste without skis run-down to where we 

were standing on the Hangerer Ferner. 

The initial drop to the deep powder run down was steep and between rocks. Simon wasn’t 

going to take any chances. He screwed a threaded bolt into the snow, attached a sturdy 

rope, and instructed us how to ski down the drop-off, holding the rope in the right hand. 

Then we were allowed our freedom in the fresh powder. By about 2000m we were to change 

our method from Schwulenkurzschwunge (gay short turns) to Gemsentiefschneesprunge 

(mountain goat deep powder jumps) – no mean feat with a rucksack on your back! 

Sonja endured a wipe out and lost her ski. Peter, as “gallant” as ever, asked her if everything 

was OK and whether she needed assistance. “Yes… I’ve lost my ski” she called up. Peter’s 

“Scheisse (shit)” could be plainly heard by all but he came to her rescue, found her ski, 

helped her in and then abandoned her. Unfortunately she came adrift again just some 

meters below, and Simon was left no option but to V his way back up the mountain in order 

to help her out. Well, it’s all in a day’s job of being the OASE mountain guide!! 

We came out at Rotmoostal, and 

Simon asked us to make our way 

down but keeping 40m distance 

between us in case of sudden 

avalanches. 

As we skimmed along parallel to the 

slope under the overhanging rocks, 

we could see the Schönwiesehütte 

with tables and seats set out 

temptingly below us. In no time, we 

were there. And it was a marvellous 

sensation to climb onto the terrace, 

kitted out in pucker mountaineering 

gear and to see the look of wonder 

in the normal skier’s eyes! Fame at last! 

We exchanged our Auf Wiedersehens with Sonja, and set back up the snow path used by the 

Karlsruher Hütte Skidoo. Dieter’s feet were really in trouble by now, but he gritted his teeth 

together, and we set off at a leisurely pace back up to the hut. And believe me, the 

difference to the first day was remarkable. We made progress, we had endurance and we 

weren’t puffing and panting. It certainly was just a matter of finding your rhythm, as Sonja 

said. 

As we were half way up, we saw that the snow to the right of the path looked invitingly 

corny (Firnschnee). Simon and Peter went for it, as Dieter and I continued along the path. 

As the intrepid skiers looked over to us, Simon realized that he should make his way back to 

us. In a split second, he had his skins back on, and was pushing ahead at lightening speed 

back up towards the path. No matter how hard Peter tried to propel himself, (and Peter was 


a fit young guy), Simon lost him easily. In fact, Simon reached us before we reached the 

hut. It was the only time that I saw Simon with a slight breakout of sweat. These OASE 

Bergschule guys are really fit! 

Once back on the terrace, Dieter showed us the toll of the day. His feet were looking ugly 

now. It was his last day touring. During the night, his feet swelled up so much, he couldn’t 

even put the inner shoes on! 

A delightful homemade evening meal washed down with red wine before our tour planning 

for the next day. We were to follow the Brits up the Engländer Schlucht! 

Oh... and we heard that the Brits did eventually make it by the late afternoon, but with a 

slight detour to a wrong hut! But then, they didn’t have Simon as their guide! 

Day 4: The Engländer Schlucht (The English Ravine)! Kleinleitner Ferner; 3200m 

Down to just the three of us, Simon, 

Peter and myself, we set off on a 

bright day. For the first time, we 

started off by actually skiing down to 

2220m on the hard icy snow. There, 

we crossed an ice bridge over a 

small trickling stream and headed up 

through the ravine. Being there with 

just the two professionals, I 

concentrated on keeping up and did 

not really take in the pools of water 

that the stream had formed. But the 

steep orange coloured cliffs could not 

fail to impress me as our path 

upwards became narrower and 

narrower, and steeper and steeper. 


Simon rescued me as he firmly 

requested Peter to take my full 

thermos flask to ease my load, and 

then it was skis off to scramble up 

the icy slope. 

At the end, we reached the Breiter 

Gurgler Ferner, and steadily 

ascended until we were parallel to 

the Hochwilder Hauser (where the 

Brits had in error called in!). Time 

for a hot tea, and we noticed that 

the sky was beginning to cloud over, 

and a slight cool breeze was blowing 

into our faces. By the time we 

turned up the slope on the right 

hand side at 2880m to kick-turn 

climb the Kleinleitner Ferner, the 

weather had really closed in, and 

the visibility was steadily worsening. 

We made it up to 3200m but not 

quite to the summit of the Schafkogel Joch, 

but by then we were not seeing very much at all 

through the thick mist. Simon made a wise decision and broke off the ascent. It was a wideopen 

descent down for some more of those schwulen Kurzschwungen, and we had a small 

picnic huddled up enjoying the last of the cheese and tinned meats. 

The 

guys just could not understand my 

whoops of joy as we neared the bottom as 

I discovered the beautiful subterranean 

stream. 

“Miranda… 

we passed here on the way up. 

You must have seen this going up?” 

But my concentration and focus on 

the 

ascent meant that I was only able to 

appreciate the full beauty of my 

surroundings as we glided down. 

We were back at the Karlsruher Hütte by 1pm and enjoyed a free afternoon before 

consuming a couple of bottles of red wine… Hey... it was the last night! We were joined by 

Stephan from OASE and his brother Johannes and their friend Udo. And after planning our 

last ascent to Aussere Hochebenkar, we all enjoyed a merry evening of exchanging jokes 

and stories, again washed down with the good proverbial red wine. And whether it was the 

elation of having almost completed a wonderful ski tour, or whether the wine was having its 

effect, when we retired to our dorm beds (with fresh Dutch guests), I couldn’t help humming 

“Tulips of Amsterdam” and falling asleep in a fit of giggles! 


Day 5: Last day! Aussere Hochebenkar; 3021m 

Breakfast was difficult. It is true what they say about red wine at altitudes… it gives you a 

whopping hangover! Dieter, still nursing his feet, and only able to wear yellow bin liners over 

a pair of Lufthansa slippers, was looking forward to a ride down on the skidoo together with 

the innkeeper. That left us three to brave the elements… a changeable strong wind, at times 

blizzard-like conditions and a drop in temperatures to –10C. We struck out northwards 

towards Distelwies on the right up to the 

Aussere Hochebenkar. At times, I could not 

even see Simon in front of me, and I could 

just follow his tracks in the snow. We 

stopped often and gratefully for hot tea, but 

the pauses were not long! 

The conditions had changed, and Simon was 

only too aware what that meant. Whilst we 

were climbing the Hangerer up to 3021m, 

Simon stuck a long probe down into the 

snow’s surface. He reached down, and took a sample of the snow from about 50cm below 

the surface. It was like crushed ice, just crumbly granules. Simon turned to face us, and 

signalled with crossed sticks that this was the end of the road. We headed directly over to 

the safety of the mountain cliff, and had a break. 

We discussed the reasons for the change 

in conditions and understood how to make 

judgments. But it certainly drove home to 

us that we were out here amongst the raw 

elements, and without Simon as our 

mountain guide, we would be like lambs to 

the slaughter. 

The last descent was bizarre; the transition from the empty open mountain slopes to the 

regular ski area populated by dozens of ski-lift skiers was enormous. All of a sudden, we had 

to watch out for other skiers around us. It was almost as if these other skiers were intruding 

into our skiing kingdom! And there were pistes like white autobahns marking the way down! 

Amazing how just 5 days up alone in the mountains could have such an affect! 


Recollections: 

So what is it about this ski touring? I can tell you it is addictive. As I already contemplate my 

next tour, I try to define the aspects that got me hooked. Certainly it is the thoughts of 

skiing down virgin slopes, the solitude and the peace of the majestic mountains, the idea 

that climbing up the slopes is pure physical exercise that will do me good and the raw 

excitement of me out there in that vast snow expanse of nature. But it is the focus and the 

sheer concentration within the group of companions that gives a sense of great achievement 

in the impressive surroundings of the Tyrolean Alps. 

Thanks to Simon and OASE for getting me up those climbs and letting me experience what 

my parents did 50 odd years ago! And thanks to my fellow ski tourers who survived (more or 

less) not only me, but also lived their dream.

It's your first time ski-touring - Alpinschule OASE-Alpin

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