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Coastal Resource Guide Pleasant Bay and Chatham Harbor

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<strong>Coastal</strong> <strong>Resource</strong> <strong>Guide</strong> for <strong>Pleasant</strong> <strong>Bay</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Chatham</strong> <strong>Harbor</strong><br />

winter months, while during summer months this s<strong>and</strong> is returned<br />

to the beach. In general, steeper, high-energy waves during the<br />

winter months cause sediment to move seaward <strong>and</strong> the milder<br />

late spring through fall wave climate causes s<strong>and</strong> to migrate<br />

back onto the beach face. The movement of s<strong>and</strong> back <strong>and</strong> forth<br />

perpendicular to the shoreline is called cross-shore sediment<br />

transport. This process can be dominant on relatively short beaches<br />

between sections of erosion-resistant coast, where there is little<br />

opportunity for a strong longshore current to be generated. An<br />

example of an area dominated by this type of transport can be<br />

the coves <strong>and</strong> ponds throughout the bay, or the summer/winter<br />

profiles of the ocean-facing barrier beach.<br />

A widened “summer” beach profile at Scatteree will narrow as on<br />

shore sediments are moved offshore by winter storms. Photo: Greg<br />

Berman<br />

4.3.5 Cross-Shore Sediment Transport<br />

In addition to s<strong>and</strong> moving parallel to the coast, there is also<br />

a component of transport that moves sediment onshore <strong>and</strong><br />

offshore (i.e., cross-shore transport). A familiar example of this is<br />

the formation of a winter beach profile, where s<strong>and</strong> is moved from<br />

the dry beach to shallow water areas offshore, typically forming a<br />

nearshore bar. Offshore s<strong>and</strong> migration typically occurs during the<br />

4.3.6 Aeolian Transport<br />

Under strong enough winds, the s<strong>and</strong> along the dry beach can<br />

be mobilized <strong>and</strong> carried away from its original location. This<br />

transport of dry s<strong>and</strong> by wind forces, called aeolian transport, is<br />

typically less dominant on an estuarine shoreline due to reduced<br />

fetch, availability of sediments, <strong>and</strong> dense vegetation. Any<br />

impediment to the s<strong>and</strong>’s movement along the beach can serve to<br />

limit windblown transport. Fencing <strong>and</strong> beach grass planting are<br />

common examples of such efforts to limit aeolian transport <strong>and</strong>/or<br />

encourage the deposition of wind blown s<strong>and</strong>s in specific locations<br />

such as on an existing dune. An example of an area dominated<br />

by this type of natural transport is the extensive dune system on<br />

Nauset Beach.<br />

17<br />

The extensive dune system on Nauset Beach is an example of an area dominated by aeolian transport. Photo by Greg Berman<br />

<strong>Pleasant</strong> <strong>Bay</strong> Alliance 2011

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