The politics of fashion and beauty in Africa
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Feature article | 37<br />
“<strong>The</strong>se Girls’ Fashion is Sick!”:<br />
An <strong>Africa</strong>n City <strong>and</strong> the Geography<br />
<strong>of</strong> Sartorial Worldl<strong>in</strong>ess<br />
Grace Adeniyi Ogunyank<strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong>y are the noble savages, star<strong>in</strong>g out from c<strong>of</strong>fee table books. <strong>Africa</strong><br />
Adorned. <strong>The</strong> Last Nomads. Backdrops <strong>and</strong> extras for Vogue <strong>fashion</strong><br />
shoots. Stock <strong>in</strong>gredients for tourist brochures … <strong>The</strong>y are the myth<br />
<strong>of</strong> tribal splendour. Everyth<strong>in</strong>g about them is foreign … <strong>The</strong>ir “timeless<br />
culture” is the stuff <strong>of</strong> children’s books, <strong>of</strong> Western fantasies. <strong>The</strong>y are<br />
everyone’s dream <strong>of</strong> people untouched by modernity. (Patel, 2010: 45;<br />
emphasis <strong>in</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al)<br />
What happens when black womanhood, black fem<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>ity, black women’s<br />
spaces, places <strong>and</strong> poetics are “Not on the marg<strong>in</strong>s”? …. if these<br />
conceptual <strong>and</strong> political differences are not simply cast as marg<strong>in</strong>al,<br />
they do not have to replicate marg<strong>in</strong>ality. (McKittrick, 2006: 134-135;<br />
emphasis <strong>in</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al)<br />
Introduction<br />
As an urban fem<strong>in</strong>ist geographer with a research <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>n cities,<br />
I was <strong>in</strong>itially pleased when the web series, An <strong>Africa</strong>n City, debuted <strong>in</strong><br />
2014. <strong>The</strong> series was released on YouTube <strong>and</strong> also available onl<strong>in</strong>e at www.<br />
anafricancity.tv. With<strong>in</strong> the first few weeks <strong>of</strong> its release, An <strong>Africa</strong>n City had<br />
over one million views. Created by Nicole Amarteifio, a Ghanaian who grew<br />
up <strong>in</strong> London <strong>and</strong> the United States, An <strong>Africa</strong>n City is <strong>of</strong>fered as the <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />
answer to Sex <strong>and</strong> the City, <strong>and</strong> as a counter-narrative to popular depictions<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>n women as poor, un<strong>fashion</strong>able, unsuccessful <strong>and</strong> uneducated. <strong>The</strong><br />
show centers around the lives <strong>of</strong> five upper-middle-class repatriated women:<br />
Nana Yaa, Makena, Za<strong>in</strong>ab, Ngozi <strong>and</strong> Sade. <strong>The</strong> characters are <strong>in</strong> their midto-late<br />
twenties <strong>and</strong> have decided to settle <strong>in</strong> Accra, Ghana, after hav<strong>in</strong>g spent