The politics of fashion and beauty in Africa

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ii | Feminist Africa 21 Editorial policy Feminist Africa is guided by a profound commitment to transforming gender hierarchies in Africa, and seeks to redress injustice and inequality in its content and design, and by its open-access and continentally-targeted distribution strategy. Feminist Africa targets gender researchers, students, educators, women’s organisations and feminist activists throughout Africa. It works to develop a feminist intellectual community by promoting and enhancing African women’s intellectual work. To overcome the access and distribution challenges facing conventional academic publications, Feminist Africa deploys a dual dissemination strategy, using the Internet as a key tool for knowledge-sharing and communication, while making hard copies available to those based at African institutions. Two issues are produced per annum, in accordance with themes specified in the calls for contributions. The editorial team can be contacted at agi-feministafrica@uct.ac.za Acknowledgements The Feminist Africa team acknowledges the intellectual input of the community of African feminist scholars and the Editorial Advisory Board. We thank the African Women’s Development Fund for their financial support towards production and publication. Disclaimer The views expressed by contributors to Feminist Africa are not necessarily those of the Editors, Editorial Advisory Board, the African Gender Institute, or our partners. While every reasonable effort is made to check factual accuracy in published material, the contributors are ultimately responsible for verifying claims made in their writings. Neither Feminist Africa nor the African Gender Institute will be responsible for errors or inaccuracies in contributions. Editor Amina Mama Issue 21 editor Simidele Dosekun Reviews editor Simidele Dosekun Copy editors Jane Bennett Simidele Dosekun Proofreader Helen Douglas Editorial team Jane Bennett Selina Mudavanhu Barbara Boswell Sylvia Tamale Victoria Collis-Buthelezi Divine Fuh Amrita Pande Editorial advisory group The editorial advisory group of Feminist Africa consists of scholars and researchers, located in different fields in the social sciences and humanities, who offer their expertise to the development and dissemination of Feminist Africa as an innovative African-focused journal. Advisory group members are: Akosua Adamako-Ampofo, Bibi Bakare- Yusuf, Teresa Barnes, Kum-Kum Bhavnani, Hope Chigudu, Tsitsi Dangaremba, Carole Boyce Davies, Simidele Dosekun, Amanda Gouws, Pregs Govender, Pumla Dineo Gqola, Shireen Hassim, Desiree Lewis, Zine Magubane, Takyiwaa Manuh, Helen Moffett, Chandra Mohanty, Patricia Mohammed, Patricia McFadden, Ruth Ochieng, Margo Okazawa-Rey, Awino Okech, Charmaine Pereira, Jennifer Radloff, Rhoda Reddock, Vasu Reddy, Kopano Ratele, Ebrima Sall, Fatou Sow, Chinyere Oparah, Sylvia Tamale,
Feminist Africa 21 | iii Dzodzi Tsikata, Zenebeworke Tadesse, Muthoni Wanyeki and Paul Zeleza. Manuscript submissions Feminist Africa has a submissions policy determined by its continental focus on feminist studies and activism. Periodic calls for contributions along particular themes guide submissions. All contributions must register the centrality of feminist politics and critical gender analysis to past, present and ongoing processes of social, political and cultural change in Africa. We regret that we cannot respond to all unsolicited submissions. Please submit contributions electronically to agi-feministafrica@uct.ac.za. We regret that we do not currently have the capacity to consider contributions in languages other than English. All submissions to Feminist Africa must use the FA style sheet, and should not include graphics. Feature articles should not exceed 6 500 words. Other contributions should not exceed 2 000 words. Editorial procedure Contributions submitted to Feminist Africa are considered by the editorial team. Feature articles are peer-reviewed by readers with expertise in relevant areas. Editorial discretion in relation to submitted work resides with the editorial team. Distribution Adams Campus Bookshop University of KwaZulu-Natal Howard College Campus Durban, South Africa tel: 27 31 261 2320 fax: 27 31 261 6053 email: campus@adamsbooks.co.za Clarke’s Bookshop 211 Long Street Cape Town 8001 South Africa tel: 27 21 423 5739 fax: 27 21 423 6441 email: books@clarkesbooks.co.za web: www.clarkesbooks.co.za International subscriptions EBSCO Subscription Services P O Box 749 Cresta 2118 South Africa tel: 27 11 678 4416 fax: 27 11 678 4464 email: mailsa@ebsco.com web: www.ebsco.com/home/southafrica Copyright and reproduction The authors and artists hold individual copyright. Overall copyright is held by the African Gender Institute. Material, artwork extracts and articles from Feminist Africa may not be reproduced in any form of print or electronic publication without the permission of the Editors, who can be contacted at agi-feministafrica@uct.ac.za. Requests for permission to reproduce material will not be granted until one calendar year after first online publication in Feminist Africa has lapsed.
Page 1: Issue 21 | 2016 The politics of fas
Page 7 and 8: Feminist Africa 21 | v Contents Edi
Page 9 and 10: Editorial | 1 Editorial: The politi
Page 11 and 12: along with letters from their audie
Page 13 and 14: normative and restrictive categorie
Page 15 and 16: Feature article | 7 African Women D
Page 17 and 18: Feature article | 9 the ‘modern l
Page 19 and 20: Feature article | 11 our women” (
Page 21 and 22: Feature article | 13 for the ‘Wom
Page 23 and 24: Feature article | 15 “Our Women H
Page 25 and 26: Feature article | 17 and gendered d
Page 27 and 28: Feature article | 19 pride and cult
Page 29 and 30: Feature article | 21 References Ade
Page 31 and 32: Feature article | 23 Contesting Bea
Page 33 and 34: Feature article | 25 an organisatio
Page 35 and 36: Feature article | 27 of society. Of
Page 37 and 38: Feature article | 29 a small town i
Page 39 and 40: Feature article | 31 selection of t
Page 41 and 42: Feature article | 33 Reverend Thand
Page 43 and 44: Feature article | 35 Hansen, Karen
Page 45 and 46: Feature article | 37 “These Girls
Page 47 and 48: Feature article | 39 the domesticat
Page 49 and 50: Feature article | 41 routine readin
Page 51 and 52: Feature article | 43 or barely clot
Page 53 and 54: Feature article | 45 Eurocentric te
Page 55 and 56:
Feature article | 47 what you have
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Feature article | 49 times, and ask
Page 59 and 60:
Feature article | 51 O’Shaughness
Page 61 and 62:
Feature article | 53 Awards’ Afro
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Feature article | 55 and hence skim
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Feature article | 57 emphasises sex
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Feature article | 59 relations with
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Feature article | 61 Bakare-Yusuf,
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Standpoint | 63 The weave as an ‘
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and essentialises blackness and its
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Overall but also in direct relation
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Standpoint | 69 Craig, Maxine. 1997
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I saw this as an opportunity to pre
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Standpoint | 73 hand as well. I str
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In Conversation | 75 Doing Beauty a
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In Conversation | 77 the waxing lad
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In Conversation | 79 but there is a
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In Conversation | 81 But on the oth
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Profile | 83 Profile: ‘Keep Your
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Integrity during the drafting and p
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even a case in which a magistrate s
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Profile | 89 “Policing Sexuality
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Review | 91 Liberated Threads: Blac
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Biko is also arguably misread to fi
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compelling for a scholar of religio
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dishes, claimed by the dominant Afr
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and biodiversity, while ‘investme
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Tribute | 101 Tribute: Hajiya Bilki
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Contributors 21 | 103 Contributors
Page 113 and 114:
Contributors 21 | 105 Yewande Omoto
Page 116:
A publication of the African Gender
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The politics of fashion and beauty in Africa

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