The politics of fashion and beauty in Africa
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78 | Fem<strong>in</strong>ist <strong>Africa</strong> 21<br />
Is it l<strong>in</strong>ked to <strong>in</strong>fantilis<strong>in</strong>g women, or mak<strong>in</strong>g us more aerodynamic or what?<br />
I jest... I have tried most hair removal methods: wax, lotion, razor, thread<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
electrolysis, laser, nuclear warfare. Everyth<strong>in</strong>g goes: the legs, the toes, the<br />
knuckles, etc. And I have the healthiest moustache you’ve ever seen, which<br />
I hide with all my might. Like you, Aleya, hair removal began as a rite <strong>of</strong><br />
passage when I was <strong>in</strong> my early teens, except it was alone <strong>in</strong> the bathroom<br />
with a razor I stole from my dad, so noth<strong>in</strong>g as glamorous as a gather<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong><br />
aunties.<br />
Now makeup: I have embraced it s<strong>in</strong>ce my mid-20s, the whole gamut,<br />
from lipstick to the ever exp<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g eyebrow. Yew<strong>and</strong>e, I agree with you about<br />
‘makeup face.’ Wear<strong>in</strong>g it feels like donn<strong>in</strong>g a mask approximat<strong>in</strong>g my actual<br />
face, not more beautiful or younger, but just more... more. In fact, I wear so<br />
much <strong>of</strong> it, <strong>and</strong> so consistently, that I worry about the implications <strong>of</strong> hav<strong>in</strong>g<br />
my funeral makeup done by a mortician. Will they get the colours right? Will<br />
they overdo my eyes? I should probably tattoo <strong>in</strong>structions on my buttocks!<br />
In all seriousness, I feel some guilt when I consider the <strong>in</strong>ternalised<br />
oppression <strong>and</strong> consumerism that <strong>in</strong>form these groom<strong>in</strong>g compulsions. This<br />
might seem contradictory, but I don’t th<strong>in</strong>k it has much to do with selfesteem<br />
or be<strong>in</strong>g comfortable. It seems that the whole ‘natural <strong>beauty</strong>’ th<strong>in</strong>g<br />
is just another bait that aims to reel us onto the roller-coaster <strong>of</strong> comparison<br />
<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>adequacy. It’s so fitt<strong>in</strong>g that Maybell<strong>in</strong>e asks ‘Maybe she’s born with it?’<br />
F<strong>in</strong>ally, it may have been easier <strong>and</strong> faster to start by nam<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>beauty</strong><br />
practices that I resist, s<strong>in</strong>ce there aren’t many. <strong>The</strong>se <strong>in</strong>clude whiten<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong><br />
hair straighten<strong>in</strong>g; I guess th<strong>in</strong>gs that are l<strong>in</strong>ked to achiev<strong>in</strong>g ‘whiteness.’<br />
Come to th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>of</strong> it, it’s funny that my <strong>beauty</strong> practices would actively resist<br />
white supremacy, but not ‘ideal womanhood.’<br />
YO: I like the po<strong>in</strong>t about <strong>in</strong>ternalised oppression. I feel this relates to the<br />
question <strong>of</strong> comfort. I’m not sure how we consider ‘comfort with self’ <strong>in</strong> a<br />
world constructed the way ours is. What is the quality <strong>of</strong> that comfort, really?<br />
<strong>The</strong> ‘perfect’ version <strong>of</strong> every aspect <strong>of</strong> our bodies has been decided for us,<br />
down to my cuticles, which the lady at the salon tells me I have too much <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> I must apply oil each night. If we really <strong>in</strong>ventory the amount <strong>of</strong> do<strong>in</strong>g<br />
we ‘must’ do, I just wonder about the notion <strong>of</strong> comfort. I mean, if I lived<br />
alone <strong>in</strong> the world <strong>and</strong> didn’t have to contend with the billboards <strong>and</strong> the<br />
messag<strong>in</strong>g, I would th<strong>in</strong>k everyth<strong>in</strong>g about me is absolutely f<strong>in</strong>e (no cuticle<br />
oil required). But aga<strong>in</strong>st what’s been decided not only as beautiful but <strong>in</strong><br />
many cases as normal – I th<strong>in</strong>k that’s another th<strong>in</strong>g, we’re discuss<strong>in</strong>g <strong>beauty</strong>