DRIFT Travel Dec 2016
In this issue of DRIFT, our passionate team brings you a diverse range of travel stories that range from luxury to outrageous; from the comforts of home to the far corners of the earth.
In this issue of DRIFT, our passionate team brings you a diverse range of travel stories that range from luxury to outrageous; from the comforts of home to the far corners of the earth.
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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL<br />
TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />
CAMBODIAN<br />
TEMPLES<br />
5YOU MUST EXPERIENCE<br />
10<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
FOR SERIOUS<br />
TOP<br />
ADRENALINE<br />
JUNKIES<br />
ICELAND<br />
A PHOTOGRAPHER’S JOURNEY<br />
MALAWI<br />
THE WARM HEART OF AFRICA<br />
Exclusive<br />
ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br />
BREAKING ICE WITH ASTRONAUT CHRIS HADFIELD<br />
DEC <strong>2016</strong><br />
COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY at <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
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in PRINT<br />
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2 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
The Case for Better <strong>Travel</strong>.<br />
www.raden.com
DEC <strong>2016</strong><br />
COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY at <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM<br />
INSIDE this issue<br />
ISSUE'S TOP 10 8 Thrills of a lifetime.<br />
18 ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br />
Polar bears, glaciers and an astronaut.<br />
TRAVELLING EDITOR<br />
30 St. Regis Punta Mita, Mexico<br />
AT A GLANCE 34 Riomaggiore, Italy.<br />
36 CAMBODIA<br />
5 Siem Reap temples you must visit.<br />
46 BEAUTIFUL BALI<br />
Two locations, one lasting impression.<br />
62 WHISTLER, BC.<br />
Romancing the snow - without skis.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
FOR SERIOUS<br />
TOP ADRENALINE<br />
JUNKIES<br />
10<br />
ICELAND<br />
A PHOTOGRAPHER’S JOURNEY<br />
MALAWI<br />
THE WARM HEART OF AFRICA<br />
Exclusive<br />
ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br />
BREAKING ICE WITH ASTRONAUT CHRIS HADFIELD<br />
TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />
CAMBODIAN<br />
TEMPLES<br />
5YOU MUST EXPERIENCE<br />
52 LIFE & STYLE<br />
How to pack stylishly for the tropics.<br />
54 SAN FRANCISCO<br />
Three restaurants we loved.<br />
56 MALAWI<br />
Warm heart of Africa.<br />
66 TRAVEL GEAR<br />
Pack more and spend less.<br />
68 ICELAND<br />
A photographic journey.<br />
80<br />
#WHERETONEXT<br />
Canouan Island, St. Vincent and<br />
the Grenadines.<br />
HOLIDAY <strong>2016</strong><br />
Whether your travel itch this<br />
season is adventurous, serene,<br />
frosty or tropical, it's all<br />
inside this issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong>.<br />
Come along on the journey.<br />
2 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
Cathay Pacific Airways Limited<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>ling well<br />
means rest assured.<br />
Explore other travellers’ #lifewelltravelled experiences<br />
and share your own memorable moments.<br />
cathaypacific.com/lifewelltravelled
4 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
a travel note from the<br />
EDITOR<br />
For travel lovers like you and me,<br />
the cold weather doesn't mean<br />
hibernation. It means finding world<br />
destinations that embrace the season<br />
and introduce us to new experiences<br />
that broaden our minds and add to<br />
our passport stamp collections.<br />
30<br />
In this issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong>, our passionate team<br />
brings you a diverse range of travel stories that range from luxury to<br />
outrageous; from the comforts of home to the far corners of the earth.<br />
Whether your travel plans include a fun family road trip across the<br />
United States, or a grueling solitary trek across the desert, I understand<br />
how much you love to travel. I do as well and that is why I work hard to<br />
ensure that each issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong> travel magazine is beautifully curated,<br />
artistically crafted and chocked full of travel inspiration. Come along<br />
on the journey!<br />
30<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> often and live well,<br />
Tracey Drake<br />
Editor-In-Chief & Creative Director<br />
editor@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />
Connect with me on<br />
Instagram: @TraceyDrakeEditor<br />
54<br />
Oh, the places I've been!<br />
30<br />
BEACH FRONT BEAUTY<br />
IN PUNTA MITA<br />
Forty minutes from Puerto Vallarta,<br />
St. Regis Punta Mita provides a<br />
Mexican luxury haven, far away<br />
from the pressures of everyday life.<br />
54<br />
CULINARY CRAWL IN<br />
SAN FRANCISCO, CA<br />
After spending three days in Cali's<br />
eccentric coastal city, I'm excited<br />
to share three amazing culinary hot<br />
spots you must try - and soon!<br />
80<br />
A SPECIAL LITTLE<br />
CARIBBEAN ISLAND<br />
In this issue, our #WhereToNext<br />
is Canouan, a tiny island in the<br />
Caribbean that got my attention,<br />
and it will grab yours too.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 5
PUBLISHER<br />
GLOSSY MEDIA<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />
TRACEY DRAKE<br />
PRODUCTION/EDITORIAL TEAM<br />
BONNIE CONRAD, JANE CROSS, ELIZABETH DEAN,<br />
TRACEY DRAKE, LAURA FRIIS, KERI HARVEY, ERIC HIMEL,<br />
WILLIAM LAKE, PETER MANDEL, JOSIE SALDAT, TODD<br />
TALBOT, SYLVIA TENNANT<br />
CREATIVE | PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
GALYNA ANDRUSHKO, ADOBE STOCK, SERGE<br />
BERTASIUS, STEVE DRAKE, FEATUREWELL, LAURA FRIIS,<br />
CHRIS HADFIELD, ERIC HON, DENIS KABANOV, KARIN<br />
KAMON, CHRISTIAN MUELLER, VADIM PETRAKOV,<br />
MICHAEL PICCAYA, EKATERINA POKROVSKY, MEGAN<br />
SCRAPER, SHUTTERSTOCK, DEBBIE STEEPER, ST. REGIS<br />
PUNTA MITA, DIETMAR TEMPS, BARRY TUCK, ANDREY<br />
VERGELES, JIXEN YU<br />
SALES & CIRCULATION DIRECTOR<br />
STEVE DRAKE<br />
ADVERTISING & PUBLISHING RIGHTS INQUIRIES<br />
sales@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com | www.<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />
Published by: Glossy Media<br />
All rights reserved. No part of <strong>DRIFT</strong> magazine may be<br />
copied or reproduced without permission.<br />
© COPYRIGHT <strong>DRIFT</strong> TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />
GLOSSY MEDIA<br />
2015-<strong>2016</strong><br />
6 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 7
Enjoy the Thrill of a Lifetime<br />
TOP<br />
10by: BONNIE CONRAD<br />
Ultimate Adventures for<br />
Adrenaline Junkies<br />
8 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
For some people, the perfect vacation means relaxing on the beach and reading a good book, but for<br />
the adrenaline junkie, that kind of staid getaway simply will not do. Whether you love to surf and<br />
kayak or climb and explore, the world gives you plenty of ways to indulge your love of adventure travel<br />
and get your fill of adrenaline rushes. Here are 10 great destinations for travelers who are not afraid to<br />
put themselves out there, in search of the next great adventure.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 9
1<br />
Diving the<br />
Great Barrier Reef<br />
If you love diving, it is hard to beat<br />
the beauty and drama of the Great<br />
Barrier Reef in Australia. You’ll<br />
probably want to stay away from the<br />
touristy places and book your trip<br />
with a local who understands your<br />
need for adventure. Once you n the<br />
Great Barrier Reef is the most popular<br />
dive spot in the world.<br />
2 Kayaking<br />
in Belize<br />
Belize is a land of natural beauty, with stunning rainforests and abundant<br />
wildlife at every turn. The water sports here are exceptional as well, and<br />
guiding your kayak down its raging rivers (Moho River is a fast water dream<br />
for kayakers) will certainly get your adrenaline pumping.<br />
3Rock Climbing<br />
Yosemite<br />
A favorite spot for rock climbing<br />
is Yosemite in California’s Sierra<br />
Nevada mountains. The stunning<br />
rock formations known as El<br />
Capitan and Half Dome are the<br />
most popular climbing locations,<br />
but there are hundreds of other<br />
lesser-known places to throw a<br />
line and get your fill of adrenalinefueled<br />
adventure.<br />
10 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 11
12 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
4Skydiving in Interlaken,<br />
Switzerland<br />
Can you imagine yourself leaping<br />
from a plane into the great blue<br />
yonder and enjoying breathtaking<br />
views of the Swiss Alps? That is<br />
exactly what you will experience<br />
when you visit Interlaken, an<br />
underappreciated part of the Swiss<br />
countryside that simply must be<br />
seen to be believed. Interlaken is<br />
truly a paradise for fans of fun,<br />
with skydiving and paragliding<br />
opportunities at every turn. If you<br />
love to fly, Interlaken is the place to<br />
get your wings.<br />
5Running with the<br />
Bulls in Pamplona<br />
Adult men and women can run in the footsteps of Papa Hemingway by<br />
fleeing from 1,000-pound bulls on the run through the streets of Pamplona,<br />
Spain. The 2017 Running of the Bulls is July 4-15, 2017 with daily bull runs<br />
and nightly street parties.<br />
6<br />
Volcano Boarding in<br />
Nicaragua<br />
If you are a true thrill seeker, you<br />
have gone dune boarding. Maybe<br />
you even traveled to locations in the<br />
Middle East and North Africa to<br />
indulge your passion. But have you<br />
ever boarded down the side of an<br />
active volcano? When you travel to<br />
the wilds of Nicaragua you can do<br />
just that. Nicaragua is one of the few<br />
places where you can sail down the<br />
side of an active volcano, and while<br />
it is not for the faint of heart, volcano<br />
boarding is an experience you<br />
will not soon forget.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 13
7<br />
Scaling the Top of<br />
Mount Everest<br />
For the expert climber, Mount<br />
Everest represents the literal and<br />
figurative pinnacle of the sport.<br />
The climb is arduous and the risks<br />
are quite real, and when you reach<br />
the summit, you will be part of a<br />
small and exclusive club. Even the<br />
Nepalese foothills around Mount<br />
Everest are filled with unique<br />
encounters, so plan to spend some<br />
time getting to know the area. A trip<br />
to Mount Everest is truly the thrill<br />
of a lifetime, perfect for anyone in<br />
search of stimulation.<br />
8<br />
Braving the Skywalk at<br />
the Grand Canyon<br />
Imagine walking out onto a ledge<br />
and stepping into oblivion. That is<br />
exactly what you can do on the west<br />
side of the iconic Grand Canyon<br />
in Arizona. The installation of a<br />
glass walkway extending over that<br />
massive canyon was big news, and<br />
now that it has been completed, the<br />
walkway is a big hit. The floor of<br />
the walkway is glass, but so are the<br />
walls. The Grand Canyon walkway<br />
is the perfect place for adrenaline<br />
junkies to test their mettle.<br />
14 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
9<br />
Hiking in<br />
Death Valley<br />
It would be hard to find a more<br />
extreme environment in which to<br />
indulge your love of hiking than<br />
Death Valley. Conditions in this part<br />
of Eastern California are extremely<br />
dry, and natural sources of water are<br />
almost nonexistent. As if that were<br />
not enough, there are poisonous<br />
lizards, dangerous snakes and all<br />
manner of scary desert wildlife. The<br />
average traveler would wonder why<br />
anyone would want to hike here,<br />
but for the adrenaline junkie it is<br />
all about pushing limits and seeing<br />
what they are capable of.<br />
10<br />
Surfing Big Waves<br />
in Hawaii<br />
If you have always wanted to ride<br />
the biggest waves, Hawaii should<br />
be your travel destination. The<br />
Hawaiian islands are renowned<br />
for their enormous waves, and<br />
the surfing here is outstanding.<br />
Whether you are an experienced<br />
surfer or a relative newcomer, you<br />
can find waves that suit your needs<br />
and abilities. Hawaii is also the<br />
perfect spot for solo travelers, with<br />
lots of new friends to make and<br />
pristine beaches to explore.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 15
every single day, more than<br />
EIGHT MILLION PEOPLE<br />
get on an airplane & travel<br />
Those who love to travel crave information on new countries to visit, exciting sights to see and once-in-a-lifetime adventures<br />
to experience. <strong>DRIFT</strong> covers all the travel bases for our readers; from hotels, airlines and cruises to city guides, culinary<br />
destinations, secret beaches and must-have accessories.<br />
Published six times a year, <strong>DRIFT</strong> is an exciting magazine that is a pleasure to read and an inspirational resource for travel lovers.<br />
Working with many of the best travel experts in the industry, each issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong> offers up articles on exotic destinations, city<br />
secrets, adventure meccas, resort reports, global hot-spots, grab-n-go technology and travel gear. Using our publication mantra<br />
“travel often, live well” as a launching point, <strong>DRIFT</strong> is filled with exclusive editorial on where to go, how to get there and what to do<br />
once you arrive; stories punctuated with meaningful, useful, expertly written travel guides and awe-inspiring travel photography.<br />
share your story<br />
with MILLIONS of<br />
travel lovers<br />
ADVERTISING, ADVERTORIAL & PRODUCT PLACEMENT:<br />
sales@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />
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submissions@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />
16 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
Tidal bore rafting.<br />
There’s nothing quite like that moment when the river shifts<br />
directions and goes from serene to exhilarating. And just think,<br />
rafting the most extreme tides in the world is only one of the<br />
things in Nova Scotia that will make your heart skip a beat.<br />
A real-life<br />
discovery<br />
channel.<br />
Explore all there is to do at NovaScotia.com<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 17
18 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM<br />
Working icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov
POLAR BEARS, GLACIERS & AN ASTRONAUT<br />
ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br />
Words and photography: Laura Friis<br />
M<br />
y polar obsession began in 2005, with my<br />
first trip to Antarctica. Perhaps because of<br />
my biologist background, my travels have<br />
taken me to the earth’s wild places, where<br />
the impact of human activity is less (but never absent) and<br />
you can escape the noise and trappings of civilization to<br />
some extent and see how the world once was.<br />
In the summer of <strong>2016</strong>, there was a remarkable<br />
opportunity to do something truly special: the Kapitan<br />
Khlebnikov, a Russian icebreaker, was planning a<br />
circumnavigation of the Arctic Ocean. Affectionately<br />
known as the KK, she had spent many years as a tourist<br />
ship with Quark Expeditions but had gone back to her<br />
regular icebreaking duties in Russia in early 2012. So<br />
top ice class expedition ships rarely go, and the helicopters<br />
gave us unparalleled access to remote areas.<br />
The KK, on this leg of the voyage, was going to try to cross<br />
into the Canadian Arctic along the north coast of<br />
Greenland. The Arctic sea ice is diminishing every year,<br />
but what thick multi-year ice there is tends to accumulate<br />
along the northeastern part of the Canadian Arctic and<br />
the top of Greenland, so we knew it would be a challenge.<br />
We encountered sea ice the day after leaving Svalbard, and<br />
spent two days trying to find a way west along the<br />
Greenland coast. As polar travelers know, the quickest way<br />
through ice is to go around it, so although we did a bit of<br />
ice-breaking, mostly we were just pushing our way<br />
through leads and between floes, eventually reaching a<br />
I BOOKED A TICKET TO GREENLAND<br />
and boarded Kapitan Khlebnikov, a working icebreaker, for an<br />
adventure to circumnavigate the Arctic Ocean.<br />
when I was informed of her return, “Book me to<br />
Greenland!” I said. And, not long after, “and the Canadian<br />
High Arctic too!”<br />
And so, at the end of July, I was on my way to<br />
Longyearbyen in Svalbard, to meet up with the ship.<br />
Icebreakers are a different design than regular expedition<br />
ships. The KK is a working icebreaker, 123 meters long,<br />
with 24,000 horsepower and a cruising speed of 15 knots<br />
in open water. In expedition mode, she carries a<br />
maximum of 110 guests, six zodiacs, and two helicopters.<br />
Her hull strength means she can venture where even the<br />
northern point of 81° 25’ N (about 500 nautical miles<br />
from the North Pole). Then, facing massive pressure ridges<br />
across nearly solid sea ice cover, and with no leads visible<br />
from satellite imagery or helicopter flights, the Captain<br />
made the decision to turn back.<br />
After the initial excitement of boarding the ship and<br />
learning our way around; the lifeboat drills, zodiac travel<br />
briefing, helicopter travel briefing, and polar bear safety<br />
briefing (“Can you run 100 meters as fast as Usain Bolt?<br />
Well, a polar bear can”), life aboard settled into something<br />
approaching a routine. The ship carried a full complement<br />
of specialists in the Arctic – culture, history, geology,<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 19
KK anchored opposite Quttinirpaaq National Park<br />
headquarters, Tanquary Fjord, Ellesmere Island<br />
glaciology, wildlife biology, so no matter what the<br />
question, someone knew the answer. Most important, the<br />
goal of the expedition team was to get us off the ship as<br />
much as possible.<br />
We spent the first several days exploring Northeast<br />
Greenland National Park, the largest national park in the<br />
world – larger than British Columbia - and a UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site. Then we continued on south,<br />
exploring all the fjords, glaciers, archaeological sites (both<br />
Thule and Norse), Sirius patrol stations and communities,<br />
from Ittoqqortoormiit to Tasilaq, Nuuk, Kangerlussuaq<br />
and Qaanaaq, that we could access as we traveled along<br />
the coast.<br />
We had two types of shore excursions, both preceded by a<br />
helicopter flight to check for bears and hiking routes, and<br />
then a few of the expedition team, appropriately armed,<br />
going in to set up a perimeter or to take groups hiking. If<br />
the weather was calm and a beach accessible, we would go<br />
ashore by zodiac (no docks here) and then go off in groups<br />
(chargers, who go for distance and elevation, medium<br />
walkers, and contemplative meanderers who are more<br />
interested in examining the landscape around them than<br />
going for distance.) I belong to the latter. The chargers<br />
may see more muskox, but we probably come out ahead<br />
with lemmings, wheatears and ptarmigan.<br />
Alternatively, the team would find us a nice open spot,<br />
usually elevated and with good vantage points and fabulous<br />
views of glaciers, fjords and ice, to fly us to, so we could<br />
meander at will while the gun bearers kept watch.<br />
In either case, I would often find a spot to just sit,<br />
experience the near total silence (something nearly<br />
impossible at home), observe the wildlife and just absorb<br />
the stunning landscapes around me.<br />
Because of the near-24-hour daylight, if an amazing<br />
opportunity presented itself, we could be off in zodiacs or<br />
helicopters at nearly any hour. In the end, this is an<br />
expedition, and ice and weather, and of course our<br />
Captain, are ultimately in charge.<br />
Greenland is 80% covered by an ice sheet with an average<br />
thickness of 1500 meters. Around the periphery of the ice<br />
sheet are innumerable glaciers, flowing inexorably<br />
downwards. Over millennia, the landscapes have been<br />
20 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
carved by the glaciers, revealing a geologist’s dream of a<br />
country, ancient rocks exposed by the irresistible power of<br />
the ice. As a glacier melts, vast quantities of rocks of all<br />
sizes are deposited in a jumbled heap along its edges and<br />
at the front. Huge rocks are left on the landscape randomly<br />
as the glacier retreats - and the glaciers are definitely<br />
retreating. As we sailed south along Greenland’s coast, we<br />
did see glaciers reaching tidewater, but many more just<br />
visible on the mountainsides.<br />
We could tell areas which had been recently glaciated by<br />
the presence and extent of lichen on the exposed rocks.<br />
Lichen grows very slowly, so the size of the patches on<br />
rocks can be an indication of when the ice retreated, and<br />
can easily be decades or hundreds of years old.<br />
Although we were far above the treeline, there were still<br />
trees. Arctic willow and birch are most common, but they<br />
grow along the ground rather than upright, and can also<br />
reach ages of many decades. Like their upright cousins to<br />
the south, these trees also change color in the fall,<br />
producing vivid splashes of red and orange across the<br />
landscape. As I walked over the tundra, I found myself<br />
Aerial view of lake on glacier, Scoresbysund<br />
Icebergs at Ilulissat with ground vegetation<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 21
Photo credit: Chris Hadfield<br />
Writer Laura Friis (center) with astronaut Chris Hadfield (left)<br />
and son Evan Hadfield (right)<br />
apologizing to the lichens and old trees I was walking<br />
over, hopefully not damaging them with my passage.<br />
When, after three weeks, we reached Kangerlussuaq on<br />
Greenland’s west coast, it was time for most of the<br />
passengers to head home and a new group to join us<br />
aboard, to explore the rest of Greenland’s coast and then<br />
sail west into the Canadian Arctic. Among the joining<br />
passengers were Canadian astronaut Chris Hadfield and<br />
son Evan, and with them, the team of Generator Arctic, a<br />
group of photographers, writers and musicians, none of<br />
whom had been to the Arctic before. Unlike the previous<br />
three weeks, when the passengers were all seasoned polar<br />
travelers, we now had an amazing group of very talented<br />
people experiencing all of this for the first time. And that<br />
in turn improved my own experience immeasurably, by<br />
seeing these incredible landscapes all over again, through<br />
their eyes. We heard fascinating space stories from Chris<br />
and some intriguing talks from the Generator team –<br />
AND they brought guitars making for memorable evening<br />
music in the bar.<br />
We continued north, exploring another UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site: Ilulissat and the adjacent Sermeq Kujalleq<br />
glacier, which is flowing at several kilometers a year (up to<br />
45 meters a day), produces enormous numbers of icebergs<br />
(35 billion tonnes per year, more than any other glacier<br />
outside Antarctica). We spent an exhilarating few hours<br />
zodiacing among these massive icebergs with occasional<br />
humpback whales for company. Despite the volume of ice<br />
flowing from the main ice sheet, the active face of this<br />
glacier is retreating every year.<br />
22 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
CANADIAN ASTRONAUT<br />
CHRIS HADFIELD,<br />
SON EVAN AND THE GENERATOR ARCTIC<br />
TEAM JOINED US THREE WEEKS IN.<br />
Village of Uummannaq, NW Greenland<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 23
24 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
WITH NEAR 24-HOUR DAYLIGHT,<br />
IF AN AMAZING OPPORTUNITY PRESENTED ITSELF,<br />
WE COULD BE OFF IN ZODIACS OR HELICOPTERS<br />
AT NEARLY ANY HOUR.<br />
Big ice.<br />
That is part of what draws so many of us back. From the<br />
gigantic white blocks of ice calving from the glaciers of<br />
Scoresbysund or Ilulissat, maturing over the years as they<br />
roll and split and age, displaying incredible shades of blue,<br />
textures from pebbled to ridged to as clear as glass, every<br />
iceberg is different and beautiful. Their history can be<br />
traced through the layers, the number of times it has<br />
rolled by the “water lines”. The glacier ice from which the<br />
iceberg is formed is thousands of years old, but once the<br />
iceberg leaves the fjord and begins its journey south, its<br />
life is often only a year or two. Finding a particularly<br />
sculpted and weathered iceberg with infinite shades of<br />
green and blue can keep photographers happy for hours!<br />
A few glaciers and fjords later, we stopped for a visit at<br />
Qaanaaq, our last stop in Greenland, and then headed<br />
west into the Canadian Arctic.<br />
Our first stop in Canada was at Grise Fiord on Ellesmere<br />
Island, where Canada Customs and Immigration officers<br />
cleared the ship and all of us. At this point, two Canadian<br />
helicopters and crew joined us, having spent four days and<br />
14 refueling stops to reach us from their base in Quebec.<br />
We had planned a community visit, but the inclement<br />
weather (huge waves) made a shore landing difficult, so<br />
the helicopters came into play, ferrying some of the school<br />
children and townspeople to the ship to visit us, and<br />
taking the Hadfields into town to visit with the school.<br />
Zodiac and iceberg. Rodefjord, Scoresbysund<br />
Then we turned north again, sailing up between Ellesmere<br />
and Axel Heiberg islands and into Tanquary Fjord, where<br />
we reached our most northern point of this part of the<br />
voyage, over 81° N at the headquarters for Quttinirpaaq<br />
National Park, Canada’s second largest national park. The<br />
snow was now beginning, making hikes even more<br />
interesting because of the wildlife tracks we could easily see,<br />
and accentuating the geological formations of the<br />
mountains around us. Helicopter flights, charging and<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 25
meandering continued each day, and we were also able to<br />
visit Eureka weather station, one of the few inhabited<br />
spots this far north (80°N).<br />
Eventually we had to turn our ship south again, having<br />
a final magnificent encounter with a polar bear on the<br />
sea ice, and then, once again blocked by ice, circling<br />
back around Devon Island (with a brief stop for a polar<br />
swim by the intrepid or foolish) to reach Resolute, the<br />
end-point of our voyage. More snow, fog and big waves<br />
hindered the zodiac landings a bit, but we made it to<br />
the airport, and eventually were winging our way south<br />
again, as the KK continued west through the rest of the<br />
Northwest Passage and its home port in Russia.<br />
Since our return, I’ve adjusted to the southern noise<br />
levels again, have been happily following the<br />
photographs and videos being posted by the members<br />
of Generator Arctic.<br />
And yes, I’m planning my next return to the ice.<br />
About the author: Laura Friis is a travel consultant<br />
at Departures <strong>Travel</strong> (departurestravel.com) specializing<br />
in adventure travel and helping others to experience<br />
these amazing destinations.<br />
For more information on arctic and antarctic<br />
expeditions visit quarkexpeditions.com<br />
26 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
Polar bear, NE Greenland<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 27
the<br />
editor<br />
when was the last time you saw<br />
something for the first time?<br />
by: TRACEY DRAKE<br />
If you have never experienced St. Regis hospitality,<br />
you are truly missing out on something very<br />
special. On a trip to Mexico, I spent some time<br />
at the lovely St. Regis Punta Mita Resort, and<br />
experienced a tropical travel experience filled<br />
with luxury amenities, elegant dining, and white<br />
sand. While you may have traveled to Mexico<br />
many times, you haven’t been to this Mexico.<br />
Punta Mita – which translates to Gateway to<br />
Paradise - is off the beaten path, as it should be.<br />
As you leave Puerto Vallarta proper, you travel<br />
through authentic Mexican countryside, enter<br />
into the State of Nayarit and eventually arrive<br />
at the gates of this 1,500 acre master planned<br />
community; greeted by the smiling faces of The<br />
St. Regis staff, armed with pitchers of ice cold<br />
Margaritas. This welcome was a glimpse into what<br />
became four days of what I can only describe<br />
as “always attentive but never intrusive” bliss.<br />
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ST. REGIS PUNTA MITA<br />
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• Getting Here: Punta Mita is a 40-minute scenic drive from the airport in<br />
Puerto Vallarta. Limo, shuttle and taxi services are readily available and can<br />
be booked in advance.<br />
THE FINER POINTS<br />
• Packing: Bathing suit, beach sandals, shorts, sunblock and a good book<br />
should be the bulk of your suitcase contents but pack at least one nice resort<br />
outfit for dinner.<br />
• Attractions: Do not miss snorkelling to Hidden Beach on Marietas<br />
Islands (Vallarta Adventures) and board a helicopter at the St. Regis for an<br />
unforgettable aerial tour (Punta Mita Expeditions).<br />
FOLLOW<br />
@TraceyDrakeEditor<br />
on Instagram & Twitter<br />
or search hashtag #The<strong>Travel</strong>lingEditor<br />
32 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
Starting from the stunning decor in the hotel's open<br />
air reception lobby, The St. Regis Punta Mita Resort<br />
has so much to offer including a collection of aweinspiring<br />
infinity pools, beach cabanas, Remède Spa,<br />
numerous casual and formal dining options, as well<br />
as access to two 18-hole Jack Nicklaus golf courses.<br />
My beach front deluxe suite was well appointed,<br />
with Mexican charm and high end finishes. The<br />
suite was large with a very private ocean-view walkout<br />
terrace, and a spa bathroom with an oversized<br />
soaker tub and an incredibly private outdoor shower.<br />
As part of the long standing signature St. Regis<br />
Butler Service, you are assigned a personal butler<br />
who is just a quick call, text or email away to get<br />
whatever you may need - coffee, reading material,<br />
drinks, garment pressing or even a private party<br />
planned in your suite. They take care of everything,<br />
including packing and unpacking your suitcases.<br />
Here, you can do nothing at all - enjoying the white<br />
sane beaches and peaceful sounds of the waves<br />
washing ashore. Or you can do whatever you desire.<br />
The staff at St. Regis are happy to arrange yoga, beach<br />
activities, water sports, excursions to Marietas Islands<br />
where you can snorkel into Hidden Beach (which I<br />
highly recommend!) and even a private helicopter<br />
tour to see this spectacular region from the air.<br />
This St. Regis waterfront resort is casual elegance<br />
at its best. The sprawling property was carefully<br />
curated to maximize guest privacy; even with the<br />
hotel booked to capacity for large weddings or<br />
special events like the very popular Punta Mita<br />
Beach Festival (held in July each year), the private<br />
casita-style accommodation and lush landscapes<br />
meant it never feels busy or crowded or rushed.<br />
It is probably a good reason why celebrities love<br />
St. Regis Punta Mita. In fact, I spent an entire<br />
afternoon on the pure white sand beach, swimming<br />
and lounging in a hammock with my book and<br />
my thoughts, and never saw another person.<br />
Paraiso – yes, paradise.<br />
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION: STREGIS.COM/PUNTAMITA<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 33
AT A GLANCE:<br />
Riomaggiore, Italy<br />
by: ELIZABETH DEAN<br />
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CINQUE<br />
TERRE<br />
by: JANE CROSS<br />
Situated right on the Gulf of Genoa, in the<br />
province of La Spezia in the Liguria region of<br />
Italy, and one of the five famous Italian fishing<br />
villages known as Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore<br />
is one of the prettiest villages in the world.<br />
Charming by day and breathtaking by night,<br />
the origins of Riomaggiore dates back to the 8th<br />
Century, when the inhabitants of the Vara valley,<br />
searching a milder climate to grow grapes and<br />
olive trees without the fear of pirate raids, moved<br />
to the coast. The town climbs steeply up along the<br />
ridges overlooking the sea and it is characterized<br />
by a multitude of colorful stone buildings,<br />
slate rooftops and open air balconies that<br />
welcome each day in the village of Riomaggiore.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 35
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MUST SEE TEMPLES<br />
IN SIEM REAP,<br />
5C AMBODIA<br />
by: WILLIAM LAKE<br />
Siem Reap is the most popular tourist destination<br />
in Cambodia, and the temples of Angkor<br />
Archaeological Park attract millions of visitors every<br />
year. Most people will have heard of the legendary<br />
Angkor Wat, but there are many temples located in<br />
Siem Reap and surrounding provinces which are<br />
also worth visiting.<br />
The temples in Cambodia were built by kings<br />
during the Khmer Empire, or what is known as the<br />
Angkor Period. The Angkor kings built up a vast<br />
empire which covered Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia<br />
and Thailand. During this time, they built huge<br />
reservoirs, canals, large cities, and the largest<br />
religious monument the world has ever seen.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 37<br />
Koh Ker Temple
ANGKOR WAT TEMPLE<br />
The magnificent Angkor Wat is a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage site and is the largest religious monument<br />
in the world. It was built in the early part of the<br />
12th century by King Suryavarman II and was<br />
dedicated to Vishnu, a Hindu god. However, by the<br />
end of the 12th century, it had been converted into<br />
a Buddhist temple.<br />
Angkor Wat was built to represent Mount Meru,<br />
the home of the Hindu Gods. The five towers<br />
represent the five peaks of the mountain, the walls<br />
symbolize the surrounding mountain range, and<br />
the moat represents the ocean.<br />
Angkor Wat is famous for its extensive carvings<br />
which mainly depict stories from Hindu epics. On<br />
the east gallery, you can see the famous "Churning<br />
of the Sea of Milk" scene with carvings of 88 devas<br />
and 92 asuras churning the sea under the guidance<br />
of the great Vishnu.<br />
Angkor Wat Temple<br />
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It’s an irritating reality that many places and<br />
events defy description. Angkor Wat and<br />
Machu Picchu, for instance, seem to demand<br />
silence, like a love affair you can never talk<br />
about. For a while after, you fumble for words,<br />
trying vainly to assemble a private narrative,<br />
an explanation, a comfortable way to frame<br />
where you’ve been and what's happened. In<br />
the end, you’re just happy you were therewith<br />
your eyes open- and lived to see it.”<br />
ANTHONY BOURDAIN<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 39
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KOH KER TEMPLE<br />
Banteay Srei Temple<br />
Located around 120km away from Siem Reap, Koh<br />
Ker is far less crowded than the temples near Siem<br />
Reap town. The peaceful surroundings and Koh<br />
Ker's unique place in Khmer history makes Koh<br />
Ker one of the most fascinating temples in Siem<br />
Reap province.<br />
Located deep inside the jungle in a sparsely<br />
populated area, Koh Ker was once the capital of<br />
the Khmer Empire. Much of the temple is closed<br />
to visitors as the area is completely surrounded by<br />
jungle. However, more than 20 monuments can<br />
still be explored by visitors.<br />
The most fascinating aspect of Koh Ker is the<br />
unique pyramid design. The seven tiers of the<br />
pyramid are unique for temples built during the<br />
Khmer Empire and many people note the striking<br />
similarities between Koh Ker and some of the<br />
ancient Inca ruins built in South America. This has<br />
led to some historians to believe that this wasn't a<br />
coincidence and is proof that temples all over the<br />
world were built by aliens.<br />
Koh Ker Temple<br />
BANTEAY SREI TEMPLE<br />
Banteay Srei is an early example of Khmer<br />
architecture and was built in the 10th century.<br />
This Hindu temple is unique because it was<br />
the only temple not to have been built by a<br />
king. Instead it was built by two of the king's<br />
courtiers.<br />
Buddhist monk at Angkor Wat Temple<br />
The name translates into English as the<br />
"Citadel of the Women" which historians<br />
believe is related to the intricate carvings on<br />
the red sandstone walls. Local legend says<br />
that the carvings are so beautiful that they<br />
could only have been carved by the delicate<br />
hands of a woman.<br />
This unique temple is a very popular choice for<br />
visitors and is located about half an hour away<br />
from Angkor Wat.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 41
BAYON TEMPLE<br />
Ancient columns at Bayon Temple<br />
The Bayon is another beautiful and extremely<br />
popular temple. It was built in the late 12th and<br />
early 13th centuries by King Jayavarman VII. The<br />
temple sits in the center of Angkor Thom which<br />
was once the capital city of the Angkor empire.<br />
This Buddhist temple was later changed to a<br />
Hindu temple before being changed back again.<br />
This means that you'll see a mix of Hindu and<br />
Buddhist carvings on the bas reliefs and walls.<br />
This unique temple features 49 towers, 37 of which<br />
remain today. Probably the most famous aspect<br />
of Bayon temple are the carved faces which are<br />
said to represent the face of King Jaravarman VII.<br />
Bayon Temple<br />
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More than 200 faces were carved into the temple.<br />
Although Bayon temple has undergone some<br />
restoration work, it is still largely unrestored,<br />
which only adds to the charm of the temple.<br />
TA PROHM TEMPLE<br />
Ta Prohm temple was made famous as it was used<br />
as a backdrop for the first Tomb Raider movie<br />
starring Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft. Due to its<br />
unique appearance, Ta Prohm is one of the most<br />
beautiful temples in the Angkor Archaeological<br />
Park. After the fall of the Angkor Empire, Ta<br />
Prohm was left to the mercy of the jungle and the<br />
trees are literally growing through the middle of<br />
the temple giving it a very unique appearance.<br />
Ta Prohm was built in the same style at Bayon<br />
temple. It's located just outside Angkor Thom and<br />
was built by King Jayavarman VII in the early 13th<br />
century to be used as a Buddhist monastery. At that<br />
time, it was home to more than 12,000 people with<br />
nearly 800,000 people living in the surrounding<br />
villages providing supplies and services for the<br />
people living in the temple.<br />
There are hundreds of temples located around<br />
Cambodia and the most popular temples are<br />
located around Siem Reap town. Angkor Wat is<br />
the main reason why people go to visit Siem Reap,<br />
but many of the smaller temples are also worth<br />
visiting. Take your time to explore Angkor Wat<br />
and the other fascinating temples built during the<br />
Khmer Empire.<br />
Ta Prohm Temple<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 43
When asked about my travels to Bali,<br />
I always answer with an enthusiastic,<br />
“You MUST go!”<br />
words by: SYLVIA TENNANT<br />
photographs by: MEGAN SCRAPER<br />
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I realize that there are countless<br />
breathtaking tropical islands on<br />
our planet, but given the vibrant<br />
spectrum of experiences offered by<br />
this destination, it has become my<br />
first suggestion for many, especially<br />
those who have never explored<br />
Indonesia. Wandering yogis, avid<br />
entrepreneurs, jet-set fashionistas,<br />
families with young children, and<br />
what seems like everyone in between<br />
are flocking to Bali, and have been<br />
for years. The luxury travel industry<br />
on this island is brimming with<br />
elusive properties, and I jumped at<br />
the opportunity to experience both<br />
Seminyak and Uluwatu through a<br />
bespoke artisanal journey with the<br />
Alila brand. World-renowned for the<br />
authentic character of their resorts,<br />
sustainable approach and awardwinning<br />
service, I knew that my time<br />
spent under their spell would be a<br />
treat for my senses.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 47
I began at Alila Seminyak, the beach<br />
front property that occupies prime<br />
real estate along the lively southwest<br />
coast of Bali. Marrying tropical luxury<br />
with minimalist design, the resort is<br />
a work of modern art and features a<br />
Balinese temple within its manicured<br />
grounds. Rooms are equipped with<br />
fine details, including floor-to-ceiling<br />
sliding doors that open to a soft ocean<br />
breeze and black sand beach view. I<br />
was quick to spot surfers from my giant<br />
bed and thrilled to discover that the<br />
bathroom amenities were locally made<br />
and organic. The multiple infinity<br />
pools, open-air candlelit dinners,<br />
and evening (I suggest the Bali 75,<br />
an innovative rose water concoction)<br />
made it very clear as to why this resort<br />
is renowned for exceptional design,<br />
service, and cuisine.<br />
Just steps from the front gates of Alila<br />
Seminyak, the sophisticated offerings<br />
of Bali’s hottest neighborhood await.<br />
The fashion, food, and nightlife lends<br />
to a cosmopolitan ambiance that feels<br />
glitzy but relaxed. Exploring beyond<br />
the bustle into more traditional<br />
surroundings was easy. The resort’s<br />
concierge planned a guided morning<br />
bike ride through the rice paddies and<br />
charming village of Canggu, topped<br />
off with a picnic on Cemagi beach. It<br />
was a truly special way to get a peek<br />
into daily Balinese culture, and just<br />
one of the many customizable ecoluxury<br />
experiences available to guests.<br />
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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 49
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From Seminyak, I traveled south<br />
along jungle-lined ancient roads to the<br />
expansive property of Alila Uluwatu.<br />
Perched high above the cliffs on the<br />
edge of the Indian Ocean, the opulence<br />
of this remote location is obvious at<br />
first glance. Architecturally, the resort<br />
seamlessly blends the dramatic natural<br />
landscape with a contemporary woodslatted<br />
design. Upon arrival, I asked a<br />
porter why the winding paths to the<br />
villas were unusually arranged. He told<br />
me that it was of utmost importance to<br />
work around the preexisting flora and<br />
fauna during the building process,<br />
which relied on locally sourced,<br />
recycled, and sustainable materials.<br />
in sight. As I slowly make my way<br />
back to my villa for the final time,<br />
I am in awe of how effortless this<br />
experience has been. The Alila brand<br />
has created sanctuaries for travelers<br />
who expect natural luxury in beautiful<br />
surroundings. There is nowhere else<br />
I would rather be, and I’m certain I’ll<br />
return again.<br />
The villas are light-filled, spacious, and<br />
supremely private, with larger-thanaverage<br />
plunge pools and day beds.<br />
Curated gardens are lush with tropical<br />
plants. The walk from my villa to<br />
breakfast at Cire, one of two in-house<br />
fine dining restaurants, made me feel<br />
as though I was within the grounds of<br />
a private estate. The morning market<br />
menu is filled with local, nutritious<br />
ingredients, which are served poolside<br />
under palm trees overlooking the<br />
incredible view. The main pool is a<br />
prime location to lounge, and there are<br />
plenty of private areas to do so. It truly<br />
feels as though you’re swimming high<br />
above the ocean within the clouds.<br />
Post-pool, I enjoyed a traditional<br />
Balinese massage with essential oils<br />
and ancient healing techniques at<br />
the Alila spa. Their holistic approach<br />
to relaxation is unparalleled and my<br />
spa experience was calming for both<br />
body and mind. For those who prefer<br />
to explore, the famed Uluwatu temple<br />
is only a 15-minute drive from the<br />
resort. Be sure to stay into the evening<br />
to catch the Kecak fire dance at sunset.<br />
At night, the walkways are softly lit,<br />
the air is fragrant with the sweet smell<br />
of frangipani, and there isn’t a soul<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 51
Eric Himel’s<br />
LIFE+STYLE<br />
by: ERIC HIMEL<br />
Packing for a warm destination is one part identifying<br />
your style and one part having a plan. Just because<br />
you are going to a tropical island that doesn’t mean<br />
you have to dress like Gidget. Don’t be literal, be<br />
smart. Pack for the weather, comfort and of course -<br />
dress with style!<br />
IDENTIFY YOUR STYLE<br />
What’s your vibe? Nautical, boho, feminine, edgy,<br />
preppy? Pick a theme that is really you and stick to it<br />
when packing.<br />
CALYPSO ST. BARTH<br />
MOKRA CROCHET<br />
COTTON SHORT<br />
RADEN A50 BLUETOOTH<br />
LUGGAGE SET IN PINK<br />
THE ESSENTIALS<br />
You’ve chosen your theme, now make a list and check<br />
it twice. Pack only what you need and nothing more.<br />
Bathing Suit: For a one week trip, pack 3. One should<br />
be a one piece when you aren’t feeling your best.<br />
Shorts: To throw over your bathing suit or for day<br />
trips.<br />
Tops: To go with your shorts, natch! Both day time<br />
tanks and a sexy slinky one for evening.<br />
Day Dress/Cover Up: Interchangeable that will take<br />
you from pool to lunch and back.<br />
Night Wear: Whether you choose a dress or separates,<br />
this look should adhere to the three C’s: comfort,<br />
coordinated and chic!<br />
SUNNY SIDE UP! PACKING FOR THE TROPICS<br />
ERIC HIMEL (erichimel.com)<br />
is a widely known celebrity stylist, fashion expert and media personality. Himel attended<br />
Parson’s School of Design and trained under Project Runway’s Tim Gunn. Now based in<br />
Los Angeles, Himel’s roster of celebrity clientele has included Jenny McCarthy, Giuliana<br />
Rancic, Pete Wentz, Gabby Douglas and more,. Eric is best known for his signature Closet<br />
Purge and now offers Virtual Styling Sessions.<br />
52 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
VALENTINO<br />
ROCKSTUD SANDALS<br />
Shoes: Pack three pairs: sandals for the pool, laceups<br />
for excursions and dressy sandal or wedge for<br />
evening.<br />
Sunglasses: Polarized for ultimate eye protection.<br />
Bags: Pack two - a tote bag that you carry on the plane<br />
and doubles for the pool. And a clutch for evening!<br />
EDIE PARKER<br />
ANCHOR CLUTCH<br />
Accessories: two pairs of earrings, one day, one<br />
night. Bangles that go with literally anything. And a<br />
oversized soft scarf that doubles as a sarong.<br />
TRINA TURK<br />
RESORT WEAR<br />
ERIC'S EXPERT TRIPS:<br />
• DON'T pack the same day as your trip!<br />
• DO color coordinate.<br />
• DO try on outfits beforehand.<br />
• DON’T pack structured or constricting clothing.<br />
• DO get a pedicure.<br />
KENDRA SCOTT<br />
BANGLES<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 53
#havefoodwilltravel<br />
SAN<br />
FRANCISCO<br />
by: TRACEY DRAKE<br />
If it's true that the way to the heart is<br />
through the stomach, then the adage<br />
"I left my heart in San Francisco" could<br />
never be more true. This hilly, quirky<br />
California coastal city is in the midst of<br />
a culinary revolution, and it is the best<br />
reason to visit (or revisit) San Francisco.<br />
<strong>DRIFT</strong> recently spent three days in<br />
San Fran, and came back with our<br />
three favorite spots to eat. Each offers<br />
up memorable ambiance, exceptional<br />
food and some interesting menu items.<br />
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One Market | 1 Market Street | onemarket.com<br />
Fine dining San Francisco style pretty much sums<br />
up the understated elegant decor and world class<br />
menu offerings at One Market. One of the hottest<br />
culinary destinations in the city, Chef/Partner Mark<br />
Dommen and Sommelier/Wine Director Tonya<br />
Pitts offer a wonderfully symbiotic food and wine<br />
experience. The restaurant’s open kitchen offers a<br />
contemporary nod to a sophisticated menu that<br />
leans toward the classics.<br />
<strong>DRIFT</strong> RECOMMENDS:<br />
Main: Pancetta-wrapped Day Boat Scallops<br />
Dessert: Chocolate Caramel Pecan Tart<br />
Drink: Smokey Margarita<br />
Twenty Five Lusk | 25 Lusk Street | 25lusk.com<br />
The ambiance of Twenty Five Lusk is decidedly Mad<br />
Men Meets the 21st Century with just the right mix<br />
of cool, vintage and ultra modern. With a 130-seat<br />
main dining room, lower level lounge, and two bars,<br />
Twenty Five Lusk offers seasonally inspired creative<br />
cuisine, a worldly wine list and an inspiring variety<br />
of craft cocktails. Executive Chef/Partner Matthew<br />
Dolan puts an excellent spin on rustic food, tailor<br />
made for a modern, urban palate.<br />
<strong>DRIFT</strong> RECOMMENDS:<br />
Main: Sunchoke Risotto<br />
Dessert: Gingerbeer Cake<br />
Drink: SF Yacht Club<br />
Dirty Habit | 12 Fourth Street | dirtyhabitsf.com<br />
On the fifth floor of Hotel Zelos in San Francisco's<br />
bustling SOMA district, Dirty Habit is a chic<br />
escape from the city. The dramatic film noir decor<br />
immediately envelopes you. Dirty Habit is definitely<br />
for those seeking a hip, social dining and drinking<br />
atmosphere. Chef Thomas Weibull does a brilliant<br />
job making the shareable, seasonal cuisine shine in<br />
this bar-centric hot spot, that also offers a genius<br />
craft cocktail menu.<br />
<strong>DRIFT</strong> RECOMMENDS:<br />
Main: Camembert Ravioli<br />
Dessert: Foie Gras Ice Cream Sandwich<br />
Drink: Artist’s Fizz<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 55
THE WARM HEART OF<br />
AFRICA<br />
by: KERI HARVEY<br />
When David Livingstone first clapped eyes on Lake Malawi,<br />
its surface danced with twinkling stars. He named it the<br />
Lake of Stars, though it's also called the Calendar Lake for<br />
being 365 miles long and 52 miles wide at its broadest, with<br />
12 big rivers flowing into it. It's a massive expanse of water,<br />
waves break onto the sandy beaches and on appearance<br />
it's a vast freshwater ocean stretching beyond the horizon.<br />
'Lake Malawi is quite unique," smiles local lake guide<br />
Johnson Nthenda. 'It's only the third largest lake in Africa,<br />
but it was the first lake in the world to be proclaimed a<br />
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Kayaking and snorkeling on Lake Malawi<br />
national park to protect the marine life of a tropical, deep<br />
water, Rift Valley lake. Because nearly 1,000 species of fish<br />
mostly dazzling, brightly colored cichlid live in its waters,<br />
and new species are still being discovered every year.'<br />
Islands in the lake are boulder strewn and dotted with<br />
baobabs; wildlife is regularly seen on the lake shores.<br />
Zebra, bushbuck, klipspringer, baboons, monkeys and<br />
rock hyraxes live along the lake, otters frolic in the waters<br />
and in the quiet reaches are hippos and crocodiles. Tiny<br />
deserted beaches and coves are everywhere, giving the<br />
lake a island paradise appeal. This is also a favorite area for<br />
kayakers, who go island to island enjoying pristine nature.<br />
With goggles and snorkels, we slip quietly over the side<br />
of the small wooden fishing boat and into the tepid<br />
lake water. Before long we are part of an underwater<br />
Pied Piper scene, with clouds of neon colored cichlid<br />
fish following us through the clear water. As we turn,<br />
so does the cichlid cloud of yellow and blue behind us,<br />
and if feels like we are swimming in a tropical aquarium.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 57
'That's exactly what this spot is called,' laughs Johnson<br />
when we are back on the boat, 'it's The Aquarium because<br />
it always looks like that underwater.' The southern section<br />
of the lake around Cape Maclear is a proclaimed national<br />
park, yet over 7 000 local people still live on the shores<br />
here and use the lake for water and subsistence fishing.<br />
Here people live close to nature, so if there's no<br />
fish there's no dinner - though good catches of tiny<br />
silvery capenta are sun dried for leaner times. Stilted,<br />
wooden drying racks topped with grass mats dot the<br />
lake shore, some empty and some packed with drying<br />
capenta. Virtually everyone who lives in the area is a<br />
fisherman, bar a few freelance tour guides like Johnson.<br />
'Actually I'm from the capital Lilongwe,' says Johnson,<br />
'but there are too many people living there (780<br />
000), so I prefer to live here on the lake. It's quiet and<br />
beautiful.' But there are many more places in Malawi<br />
fitting this description too Mount Mulanje, the<br />
Zomba plateau and the Nyika plateau, Vwasa Marsh<br />
and Liwonde National Park, just to mention a few.<br />
At 3 000m, Mount Mulanje has the highest peak in southcentral<br />
Africa. The mountain covers 1 000km and looks<br />
more like an entire mountain range than a single mountain.<br />
It offers the longest roped climb in Africa 1 700m of it and<br />
the mountain is so high it has its very own climate. Ominous,<br />
though, is the tallest peak named Sapitwa, which means<br />
'Don't go there'. But if you do, the views are spectacular<br />
over vast tea plantations all the way to Mozambique.<br />
From the magical Zomba plateau Mount Mulanje is clearly<br />
visible. The bowl of the mountain top is a forest reserve,<br />
and down below the town of Zomba was once the capital<br />
and is now Malawi's university town. It has a colonial<br />
atmosphere and is threaded with streams and adorned with<br />
majestic mahogany trees. Just half an hour north of Zomba<br />
is Chingale, where craftsmen specialize in carving the<br />
uniquely Malawian 'chief 's chairs' from a single tree trunk.<br />
Also in southern Malawi, at the bottom tip of the lake,<br />
is Liwonde National Park, with the famous Shire River<br />
running through it. It's been a national park since 1979<br />
and has been restocked with wildlife that naturally<br />
occurred there, after it was shot out by trophy hunters.<br />
It was an ambitious conservation project that now draws<br />
nature lovers from around the world to experience<br />
African wildlife in thoroughly magnificent surroundings.<br />
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Fish market in the village of Cape Maclear, Malawi<br />
Colorful wooden fishing boats on the beach in Cape Maclear, Malawi<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 59
So too, the Nyika plateau in the north of the country.<br />
It's Malawi's biggest national park and one of the most<br />
unusual in Africa. High altitude rolling grassland, vast<br />
herds of eland, trout streams and prolific flowers, yet<br />
it's all dwarfed by the scale of the landscape. Ground<br />
orchids, proteas, irises and aloes grow here in a natural<br />
garden that is a wonderland for hikers, campers and<br />
cyclists. The eastern edge of the plateau forms a wall of<br />
the Great Rift Valley, though at times you may believe<br />
you have found a piece of Scotland. Nearby Vwaza<br />
Marsh Wildlife Reserve offers great sightings of elephant<br />
and buffalo, and guided walking safaris are offered too.<br />
Johnson's fire on the lakeshore has burnt to coals, and he's<br />
grilling fresh whole chambo on it. The pot of white rice is<br />
cooked and chopped garden tomatoes have been heated over<br />
the flames. 'This is what we eat most nights in the village,'<br />
he smiles, and we tuck in and eat in silence. Fresh and<br />
flavorsome, our fish dinner is superb, sitting on the beach<br />
of the Lake of Stars. Johnson smiles as we lick our fingers.<br />
In Chembe village in the distance, we can hear the chatter<br />
of fishermen over the glassy lake surface. They're preparing<br />
for another night out, fishing with paraffin lamps and<br />
moonbeams, from their dugout wooden canoes. They<br />
often fish in twos, dragging a net between them. Kampango<br />
and chambo are what they are after to feed their families,<br />
but everything caught is eaten. A couple of boats do have<br />
motors, but most are poled by hand for miles and miles.<br />
'The lake's not always this smooth,' says Johnson. 'In<br />
the windy season it gets very rough with big waves, just<br />
like the sea. But Malawians are good sailors, so it's not<br />
a problem and we still go fishing.' He smiles a flawless<br />
white teeth smile and puts more fish on our plates.<br />
'Please eat,' he says, with characteristic Malawian<br />
hospitality, 'there's no chambo in South Africa,<br />
and it's a long way to come back for seconds.'<br />
For more travel information: www.visitmalawi.mw<br />
Senga Bay Beach, Lake Malawi<br />
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Simple made perfect<br />
Delta Hotels by Marriott TM Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort<br />
DeltaVictoriaOPR<br />
DeltaVictoria<br />
DeltaOceanPoint
There aren’t many places on this planet that offer as<br />
many mind blowing experiences as the mountain<br />
community of Whistler, British Columbia on<br />
Canada's rugged West Coast. Whether you<br />
live just down the highway or you fly around the world<br />
to get there, Whistler delivers. The natural beauty alone<br />
makes it hard not to be wooed into the romantic spirit.<br />
My wife Rebecca and I made Nita Lake Lodge our re'treat'<br />
for the weekend and it was ideal for a couple who rarely<br />
get a weekend for themselves. Quiet, friendly, and 100%<br />
West Coast in design and setting, Nita Lake Lodge was<br />
the perfect launch point for a whirlwind romantic<br />
weekend for two. We’ve had getaway experiences in<br />
the past where we just frittered the time away, but here<br />
we had a planned itinerary and it turned out to be just<br />
the right balance of fun and relaxation. The fun list<br />
included Superfly Zipline tours, the Peak 2 Peak gondola<br />
experience and a night at Basalt, one of the village's<br />
culinary hot spots. Relaxation was comprised of two spa<br />
visits as well as a little down time at the lakeside lodge.<br />
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An Insiders Guide to a Romantic Getaway to<br />
WHISTLER, BC<br />
skis not required!<br />
by: TODD TALBOT<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 63
THE SPA<br />
We had a couples massage at<br />
the Spa at Nita Lake Lodge.<br />
Equipped with a serene steam<br />
room, relaxation lounge and<br />
rooftop whirlpools which<br />
extended our massage into a few<br />
hours of pampered indulgence.<br />
Ironically one of the most talked<br />
about experiences in Whistler is<br />
a spot where you aren’t allowed<br />
to talk! Scandinave Spa is quite<br />
a draw for visitors to Whistler<br />
but we were still unsure of the<br />
hot/cold/rest method at first.<br />
Our one minute of cold started<br />
out as one second. But after<br />
three rounds of the treatment<br />
we were hooked, and Rebecca was stealing a little<br />
extra time in the cold pool when I wasn’t looking.<br />
>THE RESTAURANTS<br />
Basalt, Aura and Christine’s. We had three amazing<br />
meals that left us so satisfied, we just snacked for the<br />
rest of our visit. The food was fantastic at all three<br />
restaurants and the staff and servers took it to another<br />
level. Basalt impressed us with it’s intimate ambiance<br />
and bold decor: phallic sconces on the walls and<br />
copper pendants over a bar made of volcanic lava<br />
(the definition of basalt). Christine’s, at the peak<br />
of Blackcomb Mountain, is all about the view, and<br />
if you arrive in a thick fog you may want to wait a<br />
few minutes. We pushed back our reservation and<br />
waited out the fog which gave us not only a splendid<br />
view of the mountain but also the marmots playing<br />
outside. I was able to get a couple of amazing photos<br />
of our meal, enhanced with the naturally stunning<br />
mountain backdrop. At Aura, located overlooking the<br />
lake at our hotel, we enjoyed the<br />
offering of a trio which was over<br />
the top. We sat in the window<br />
indulging on the sunset and<br />
the deconstructed cheesecake!<br />
>THE ACTIVITIES<br />
The activities appear to be at<br />
the bottom of our list but they<br />
really weren’t. Everything about<br />
our weekend away was on<br />
point, including the experience<br />
at Superfly and the Peak 2<br />
Peak Gondola. Ironically, both<br />
endeavors have a treacherously<br />
deep expanse between two<br />
mountains to be crossed on<br />
cables. On the Peak To Peak,<br />
from those cables we were safely contained in a glassbottom<br />
gondola and were at ease to snap dramatic<br />
shots of the fog lingering over the mountain. At<br />
Superfly, we were balls to the wind and contained only<br />
by a harness and helmet. The guys at Superfly made<br />
our excursion for us. They injected the right amount<br />
of humor and information all the while ensuring<br />
everyone’s safety. They went above and beyond to<br />
solidify our opinion capturing what it is to experience<br />
the Whistler romance. From two opposing platforms<br />
they photographed our descent on the ‘romantic line”<br />
where Rebecca and I held hands while speeding between<br />
the trees to our final destination on the mountain.<br />
It did make me think about making a move to this<br />
mountain village. With one of the world’s greatest<br />
playgrounds at your doorstep, even the real estate<br />
savvy can be tempted!<br />
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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 65
TRAVEL GEAR<br />
PRODUCTS FOR THE SAVVY TRAVELER<br />
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It is increasingly harder to avoid paying checked baggage<br />
fees. Every airline charges them, and many are very strict<br />
about the width of your carry-on case. If you are a messy<br />
or unorganized packer, there are products on the market<br />
that make it easy to organize your suitcase and who knows -<br />
you just may fit everything into a carry-on and avoid costly<br />
baggage fees altogether!<br />
TUMI JEWELRY ROLL<br />
From Tumi's Voyageur collection comes this ultra-chic<br />
jewelry travel roll. Light as a feather and a must-pack to<br />
protect jewelry and accessories during travel, it features<br />
a smartly-organized interior with multiple pockets and<br />
special earring holders. tumi.com<br />
EAGLE CREEK PACKING CUBES<br />
Available in seven colors, the Pack-It Original Starter Set<br />
from Eagle Creek will help you organize the contents of<br />
your bag so you can travel with the assurance that you<br />
know where everything is. Sized perfectly to fit in most<br />
carry-on suitcases, it compresses 8-12 dress shirts or slacks,<br />
minimizing wrinkles. eaglecreek.com<br />
OUR TOP<br />
PICKS:<br />
PACK MORE IN<br />
LESS SPACE AND<br />
SAVE MONEY ON<br />
BAGGAGE FEES.<br />
ZIPLOC SUITCASE SPACE BAGS (NO VACUUM<br />
CLEANER REQUIRED!)<br />
The Space Bag <strong>Travel</strong> Bag by Ziploc is ideal for storing<br />
clothing and can compress up to 5 sweaters or shirts. It<br />
provides twice the storage and is airtight, waterproof, and<br />
reusable. No vacuum is required as compression is activated<br />
by rolling the bag. ziploc.com<br />
PACKING TIP:<br />
Disposable hospitalstyle<br />
shoe covers let<br />
you stuff footwear<br />
into any bag without<br />
getting clothing dirty.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 67
ICELAND<br />
a photographic journey<br />
Featured Photographer: Debbie Steeper<br />
Debbie Steeper, a<br />
photographer based<br />
in British Columbia,<br />
Canada, loves to<br />
photograph fashion,<br />
architecture and<br />
fascinating landscapes.<br />
With a 360 degree<br />
creative mind, Debbie<br />
continually seeks to<br />
find new places to<br />
explore and curate her photographic point of view in<br />
interesting ways. Debbie's work has been published in<br />
numerous fashion and lifestyle publications.<br />
CAMERA EQUIPMENT:<br />
Canon 5D MK III<br />
Canon 24 - 105 F4<br />
Canon 70 - 300 F4<br />
FOLLOW DEBBIE ONLINE:<br />
Website: www.debbiesteeper.com<br />
Instagram: @debbiesteeper<br />
68 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM
The spectacular Gulfoss Waterfall, on the Hvítá River in Southwest Iceland, crashing to the canyon below.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 69
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Skeletal remains of a US Navy cargo plane rest on a surrealistic landscape of black sand.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 71
Strokkur Geyser erupts every four to eight minutes, spewing boiling water up to 100 feet in the air.<br />
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Spectacular waterfalls are a stunning backdrop<br />
for Icelandic homes at the base of the mountain.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 73
Pleasure boats moored in the harbor of Iceland's capital city, Reykjavík.<br />
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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 75
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Summer cottages, with views to the snow covered mountains, offer<br />
pastoral respite from city life.<br />
Outbuildings are protected by shoring them up with rocks and hay to<br />
help keep out the strong winter winds.<br />
Hardy Icelandic horses dot the frozen landscapes, with their manes<br />
blowing in the punishing winds as they stand without any shelter<br />
through the harsh winter weather. This breed stock has remained<br />
pure, as Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the<br />
country and once a horse leaves, it may not return.<br />
TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 77
ICELAND WAS THE LAST COUNTRY<br />
to be settled in Europe, when emigrants<br />
from Scandinavia and the British<br />
Isles first came to live on the island<br />
in the ninth and tenth century. It<br />
remains the most sparsely populated<br />
country in the continent. Iceland’s<br />
harsh natural environment has bred<br />
a resilient nation that has learned<br />
to exist under extreme conditions,<br />
and harness the natural resources<br />
they create for its own prosperity.<br />
Today, Iceland is a progressive, modern<br />
society that continuously ranks at the<br />
top of measurement's for quality of<br />
life and its economy is one of the most<br />
productive economies in the world,<br />
per-capita, and it is considered one of<br />
greenest eco countries on the planet.<br />
Iceland also boasts a prospering music<br />
scene, a burgeoning film industry,<br />
and Icelandic design is coming of age.<br />
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Iceland is a country of sharp contrasts. A place where fire and ice coexist.<br />
Where dark winters are offset by the summer’s midnight sun. A<br />
country where insular existence has spurred a rich and vibrant culture.<br />
ICELAND TOURISM<br />
Öxarárfoss Waterfall is easily accessible and lies within ÞingvellirNational Park.<br />
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#WHERETONEXT<br />
CANOUAN ISLAND<br />
Unspoiled and virtually undiscovered, Canouan<br />
is the Caribbean's new found destination for<br />
discerning travelers. Located in the heart of St.<br />
Vincent and the Grenadines, and just west of<br />
Barbados, Canouan Island is only 3.5 miles long.<br />
This small oasis offers perfect weather and an<br />
abundance of natural beauty including calm water<br />
bays, scenic tropical coves, pristine white sand<br />
beaches and one of the Caribbean's largest coral<br />
reefs. A newcomer to the island is Pink Sands Club,<br />
a luxury resort that opened in October <strong>2016</strong>. Watch<br />
for it in the Winter <strong>2016</strong> issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong> magazine.<br />
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