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SPICE APRIL 2017 IPAD LR

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TRAVEL ||||| OFFBEAT<br />

NATURE’S CANVAS<br />

ONCE CALLED `MEM DA PIND’ AFTER AN IRISH ACTRESS WHO RELOCATED<br />

HERE, ANDRETTA IN HIMACHAL PRADESH TODAY IS A MAJOR DRAW FOR<br />

ARTISTS AND NATURE LOVERS ALIKE. BY SYEDA FARIDA<br />

Clockwise from above: Japanese terracotta<br />

ware at the museum; a potter drying the clay<br />

products; Norah Richards’ house; and pottery<br />

panel along a street in Andretta<br />

NOW FLYING<br />

SpiceJet flies to Dharamshala, 46 km away.<br />

Log on to www.spicejet.com for details<br />

It could have been like most<br />

hamlets in HP (Himachal<br />

Pradesh), affording views<br />

of the Himalayas as far as<br />

the eye can see. Except<br />

that it is not. What makes<br />

Andretta stand out is not<br />

only its foreign-sounding name but also<br />

its rich legacy. Till not so long ago, this<br />

quaint village along the Dharamshala-<br />

Palampur route in Kangra district of HP<br />

was better known as `Mem da pind'<br />

which translates as “village of the<br />

English lady” after Norah Richards, an<br />

Irish actress, who relocated here in the<br />

1920s, after the demise of her husband,<br />

Philips Richards, a professor at Lahore<br />

University.<br />

Her house – built in the local style<br />

using mud, bamboo and slate and painted<br />

canary yellow – continues to bask in the<br />

winter sun at Andretta. Woodland<br />

Estate, as her property was once called,<br />

came to be known for the school of<br />

drama she established. Back in the day,<br />

doyens like Hindi film actor Prithviraj<br />

Kapoor would grace the many theatre<br />

festivals held here. Even today, the well<br />

laid-out amphitheatre in the courtyard<br />

of this great lady’s house is not to be<br />

missed. Norah was instrumental in<br />

Andretta’s evolution as an artists’ colony.<br />

She invited eminent personalities such<br />

as noted painter Sobha Singh, Professor<br />

Jai Dayal from Lahore University,<br />

famous painter-sculptor from Assam<br />

B.C. Sanyal, and studio potter Sardar<br />

Gurcharan Singh to make it their home.<br />

Mirage, a popular heritage homestay<br />

here, was once Professor Jai’s place of<br />

residence.<br />

Denis Harrap, who manages Mirage,<br />

and left behind his work as an art<br />

director and set designer in some of the<br />

hippest places in London, New York and<br />

Los Angeles 10 years ago to live in<br />

Andretta, says, “The rat race in New York<br />

doesn’t interest me anymore. Andretta<br />

offers a more peaceful ambience… You<br />

could say the grandfathers of modern<br />

Indian culture were here. After<br />

Independence, they needed to anchor<br />

themselves and decided to come here.<br />

Most of the houses were built in 1947-<br />

48.” Perhaps it is this Zen-like quality<br />

which drew actor Kabir Bedi, and before<br />

him, his mother, Freda Bedi; and the<br />

likes of Naseeruddin Shah and Ratna<br />

Pathak Shah to Andretta.<br />

Prithviraj used to stay at Mirage<br />

whenever he visited Andretta, gushes<br />

Denis. And why not? An imposing stone<br />

104 ||||| <strong>APRIL</strong> <strong>2017</strong>

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