National_Geographic_Traveller_India_May_2017

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Navigate | NATIONAL PARK catching the other one by surprise. All hell broke loose and the river turned turbulent as the titans engaged in a dramatic fight. I teared up in gratitude for having witnessed this when it came time to say my goodbyes to the crew. EXPLORE Because of the muddy terrain, the only way to explore the park is by boat. Due to safety reasons walking in the forest is prohibited, except for around the watchtowers, with a guide as escort. The forest department issues dawnto-dusk permits for the forest’s various zones: Sajnekhali, Sudhanyakhali, Pirkhali, Lebu Khali, Bonbibi Varani, Panchamukhani, Netidhopani, Dobanki, Sarakkhali, and Choragaji. It is common to see many other boats as well in these open parts of the forest. The landscape—a blue sky reflected on dark green waters—does not vary much between these zones, but each has its own charm. The Sudhanyakhali Watchtower is a well-known vantage point, located about 25 kilometres from Canning and accessible by boat. Visitors can catch the sunrise and then pray for a tiger sighting to the forest goddess Bonbibi at a shrine located at the tower’s base. At the Dobanki Watchtower, a canopy walk allows visitors a closer look at the mangrove vegetation and habitat. Guided village walks are also recommended. At sunset, visitors must return to their resorts or specified spots where boats can drop anchor for the night. WILDLIFE Though the Bengal tiger is king of the Sundarbans, there are many other species of beasts and birds in this rich habitat. Others felines include the leopard cat, fishing cat, and jungle cat. Chital deer, rhesus macaques, and wild boar hide among the trees, and water animals include otters, water monitor lizards, Irrawaddy dolphins, Gangetic dolphins, and saltwater crocodiles. There are also elusive snakes and colourful birds of all sorts. A dedicated naturalist and wildlife photographer can make spotting animals much more rewarding. Way2Wild organises nature study and photography tours with experienced trackers and naturalists (www.way2wild.in; `13,500 per person for a 2-night/3-day photo A boat safari (top and middle right) in the Sundarbans gets you a front seat to all the action, be it spotting a red-tailed bamboo pit viper (middle left) at the Sudhanyakhali watchtower, or watching a vicious fight between saltwater crocodiles (bottom). 42 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | MAY 2017
Navigate | NATIONAL PARK Tigers are the main draw at the Sundarbans, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since a large area of the mangroves is often underwater, these big cats are expert swimmers and can survive on fish, crab, and other crustaceans. tour; includes all meals, jungle cruises, and transfers to and from Kolkata). SAFARI TIMINGS AND COSTS The park is open throughout the year. August to mid-February are the more pleasant months to visit, and October to January the most popular, with perfect tidal conditions. The weather gets temperamental from mid-March to July. Permits can be obtained from the Sajnekhali forest office. The safaris usually take place from dawn to dusk. Boat permit is `400 per person for all other zones except the interior Netidhopani zone, which is near the core area and costs `800. Visitors pay `60- 120 depending on the season. All forest permits can be obtained from Sajnekhali forest office which is an hour and a half from Godkhali. GETTING THERE AND AROUND The nearest airport is Kolkata, which is about 100 km/3 hr north of the Godkhali Ghat ferry point. From Godkhali, the rest of the journey is by boat. Boat charges range from `3,000- 10,000 per day depending on the craft and the season (Nov-Jan are peak months). Most resorts can arrange a boat safari; I recommend Shuvarthi Guha (98367 11148), Gouranga Mondal (80177 38940), and Nitai Mondal (97329 09545, 90910 36626) who have travelled with many photographers and understand their pace. STAY Boats The best way to enjoy the Sundarbans is to sit on a boat in the middle of the river with a hot cup of tea, listening to the stories of the naturalists and boatmen. Boats can be hired from Godkhali Ghat, and most have kitchens, beds, and bathrooms. Resorts Besides boat stays, resorts, too, provide packages that include accommodation, food, boat safaris, and village walks. Tora Camp situated on Bali Island provides an authentic village experience (www.toraresort.in; doubles from `5,883). Sundarban Tiger Camp, also in Dayapur, is an eco-friendly resort with rooms decorated with locally sourced materials (www.waxpolhotel. com; doubles from `4,810). West Bengal Government’s Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge in Pakhiralaya village is a good budget option (www.wbtdc.gov.in/Static_ Pages/sajnekhali_lodge.html; doubles from `2,500). SUNDARBANS TRIVIA Sundarbans has been significant ever since the Mughal era. It was first surveyed under Akbar’s reign and has since been an important place for sourcing timber, honey, paraffin, salt and fish. It was under the governance of the East India Company since 1756 and was declared a national park in 1984. Around 14 per cent of its population of four million subsists on agriculture. The others live off the forest and river and collect honey and fish for their livelihood. In the Sundarbans, the Hindus and Muslims worship the same gods. The cult of Bonbibi (the goddess of forests) and Dakshin Rai, the tiger god, are widely followed here. 44 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | MAY 2017
Page 1 and 2: MAY 2017 • ` 150 • VOL. 5 ISSUE
Page 3 and 4: MACAO A PROCESSION OF COLOUR MUMBAI
Page 5 and 6: Editor’s Note | SHREEVATSA NEVATI
Page 7 and 8: Voices | TRAVELLER’S CHECK Go Bet
Page 9 and 10: NAVIGATE the quest On the trail of
Page 11 and 12: Navigate | THE INSIDER SEE IT Walk
Page 13 and 14: Navigate | THE QUEST Raiders of the
Page 15 and 16: Navigate | THE CONCEPT Under Troubl
Page 17 and 18: Navigate | URBAN EXPLORER Invest in
Page 19: Navigate | NATIONAL PARK In the Eye
Page 23 and 24: Navigate | HERITAGE Culture is Look
Page 25 and 26: caught up in all the action above.
Page 27 and 28: The stairs of the Moesgaard Museum
Page 29 and 30: with its candy cane cupolas. We dri
Page 31 and 32: Oregon’s fiery origins are etched
Page 33 and 34: of a stand of trees as we neared. A
Page 35 and 36: Guests in the Great Room in Timber
Page 37 and 38: IN FOCUS 62 macao The city’s Lati
Page 39 and 40: ■ MACAO Macao’s annual parade s
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■ INDIA EAST Jazzfest Kolkata, We
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■ INDIA WEST Nariyal Paani Alibau
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JOURNEYS 104 australia From shy ban
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■ AUSTRALIA MY FAMILY OF OTHER Fr
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■ AUSTRALIA an hour southwest of
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National_Geographic_Traveller_India_May_2017

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