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PREVI HEAR JOURNAL <strong>2011</strong> ! <strong>The</strong> <strong>Peace</strong> <strong>Project</strong><br />
PREVI HEAR JOURNAL <strong>2011</strong> ! <strong>The</strong> <strong>Peace</strong> <strong>Project</strong><br />
answers,<br />
‘ NO!’ <strong>The</strong> voice on<br />
the end of the phone to<br />
Sokheng is blunt, polite,<br />
but definite! Definitely<br />
NOT! Sre Pich smiles<br />
sheepishly and then<br />
attends to another permit<br />
holder. I look at the others<br />
who are still joking.<br />
I am thinking, ‘Oh wow,<br />
this is how it’s going to be!’<br />
This is the first day<br />
when I begin to realize two<br />
things. ‘To keep the crew’s<br />
morale up I have to feed<br />
them very well. Luckily it’s<br />
super cheap here so I can<br />
afford to fill eight face here<br />
until they are bloated. For<br />
an anorexic, bulimic artist<br />
thats going to be hard. But<br />
easy on the pocket. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
is a restaurant next to the<br />
round- about in Srae‘Aem<br />
we have dubbed “<strong>The</strong> Soup<br />
Kitchen.” Fifteen dollars<br />
and everyone is Fred<br />
Astaire, Oops I mean FED!’.<br />
It’s not exactly heaven as<br />
far as sanitation goes but<br />
everyone is happy.’ And<br />
that’s fifteen dollars to<br />
feed eight people! <strong>The</strong> next<br />
thing I realize is,<br />
‘Everyone is exchanging<br />
jokes all the time. It’s all a<br />
laugh. <strong>The</strong> serious peace<br />
project will need to weather<br />
the humor, but at least I get<br />
it done. I have to be patient<br />
and understand that it<br />
doesn’t matter. <strong>The</strong>y are<br />
here to help me with the<br />
humor!’<br />
After the last recent<br />
depressing telephone call,<br />
we climb back<br />
onto the motor bikes<br />
and drive in convoy to<br />
the transit point ready to<br />
change vehicles. <strong>The</strong> road<br />
for the next fifteen miles<br />
goes straight and ends<br />
with some ridges which<br />
divide <strong>Cambodia</strong> from<br />
Thailand. <strong>The</strong>y loom huge<br />
and picturesque. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are colors of viridian and<br />
ochre brown dappling the<br />
horizon.. Sap green too.<br />
On one mountain lies the<br />
Preah Vihear temple, but<br />
I am not sure which it is.<br />
From what I have been told,<br />
it’s made of solid granite<br />
and the temple was cut<br />
from the stone right out of<br />
the mountain side. A set<br />
of steps have also been cut<br />
seven hundred years ago<br />
leading up to it. It is called<br />
‘the Ancient Staircase!’ As<br />
I look from the speeding<br />
motorbike I think,<br />
‘<strong>The</strong>re are definitely NO<br />
tourists around.’<br />
<strong>The</strong> steps up the<br />
mountain are carved from<br />
the same stone but the<br />
access to the mountain and<br />
through the ancient stair<br />
case is not the way we want<br />
to go.<br />
At the summit we inspect<br />
the site and decide on<br />
where the painting and<br />
easel must go. Mao has<br />
already has assembled the<br />
wooden stands. <strong>The</strong> guys<br />
collect together and move<br />
them onto the correct<br />
positions. This is our first<br />
day when we choose a<br />
site for the painting and<br />
sort through the painting<br />
equipment. As evening<br />
descends we make the<br />
first return trip down the<br />
mountain. Here there are<br />
palm trees and men in<br />
foxholes. I can see small<br />
anti- personnel carriers<br />
and men in observation<br />
booths with binoculars<br />
looking across in Thailand<br />
and the border. We can<br />
see a road, an observation<br />
tower, some fix holes and<br />
cement bunkers and the<br />
Thai flag fluttering. <strong>The</strong>n<br />
we return as darkness<br />
descends to Sra'Aem to the<br />
lean-to wooden shops to do<br />
internet and photocopying.<br />
When we drive in to<br />
Sra’Aem, it’s twilight. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are people milling around.<br />
Families and soldiers<br />
and shop keepers. <strong>The</strong><br />
usual. Its a town of threethousand<br />
people, I imagine.<br />
Maybe more, including the<br />
soldiers stationed on the<br />
border. <strong>The</strong>y are the town’s<br />
business. Not us!<strong>The</strong>re are<br />
obscure lights lining the<br />
shops and hand-painted<br />
signs outsides. It reminds<br />
me of a border town on the<br />
Amazon river. But nobodies<br />
selling fish. <strong>The</strong> trading<br />
which goes on here are for<br />
the soldiers. . We pass a few<br />
Karioke bars, two tumbled<br />
down massage booths and<br />
tiers of lights from street<br />
restaurants. <strong>The</strong>re is a<br />
market and a vacant lot full<br />
of litter which doubles on<br />
the weekends for a boxing<br />
stadium. During the week<br />
days they use it for the<br />
buses and on the weekend<br />
for boxing.<br />
DAY FOUR<br />
Sunday,<br />
13th of<br />
November<br />
<strong>2011</strong> Sra<br />
‘Aem<br />
It’s seven-fifty am. I crawl<br />
out of bed past the file of<br />
ants<br />
trekking to the bathroom,<br />
past the sleeping boys and<br />
to the cold white tiles and<br />
the cold shower. <strong>The</strong> air<br />
con is on but the moment<br />
I leave the room I feel<br />
the putrid humid heat<br />
outside.<br />
‘Oh gee, I’m still in<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>!’ is the first<br />
thought which attacks<br />
me like the ants.<br />
It’s only after four<br />
coffees that I begin to feel<br />
like have kick- started<br />
the day. Even before the<br />
sun has risen the drivers<br />
are waiting in the dawn<br />
for us. <strong>The</strong>y are quiet,<br />
murmuring amongst<br />
ourselves. This is the<br />
first time we have driven<br />
with the motorcycle<br />
riders together. We<br />
will be a team. We ride<br />
in the early morning<br />
light en mass to a small<br />
carpentry shop on the<br />
outskirts of town. To get<br />
the sound synchronized<br />
with the images, we need<br />
a clapperboard for the<br />
sound recording. Or at<br />
least I think we do. Three<br />
days later I understand,<br />
‘we don’t.’ It’s a disaster,<br />
but this morning at<br />
eight, I<br />
think we do. It’s now<br />
eight Ay Em in the<br />
morning. We drive into<br />
the town, past the roundabout<br />
searching for a<br />
new clapperboard and<br />
roller. Mr Bora is<br />
pillioning me. Five<br />
kilometers outside town<br />
we pull up. It’s just “a<br />
flea bitin” tin-shed with