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PREVI HEAR JOURNAL <strong>2011</strong> ! <strong>The</strong> <strong>Peace</strong> <strong>Project</strong><br />
PREVI HEAR JOURNAL <strong>2011</strong> ! <strong>The</strong> <strong>Peace</strong> <strong>Project</strong><br />
rises in the sky. Soon that<br />
will be gone too. Its purple<br />
twilight set against the<br />
silhouette. I see the drivers<br />
waiting, smoking and<br />
chatting at the gate of the<br />
hotel and realize we need to<br />
leave soon.<br />
At the third check point,<br />
Sre Pich One is not there.<br />
Mr Buthy, one of the motor<br />
cycle drivers remains at<br />
the bottom of the mountain<br />
guarding the motorcycles,<br />
quietly smoiking and then<br />
waves with a gentle flick of<br />
his wrist. <strong>The</strong> pick-up truck<br />
on the road mumbles then<br />
back-fires and continues<br />
up the hill as we are film<br />
me and So-Pert talking in<br />
the truck. Before we leave,<br />
we give him lunch money<br />
and cigarettes. <strong>The</strong> pastel<br />
blue mountains ripple in<br />
the morning haze. <strong>The</strong><br />
cracked and emaciated<br />
cement road curls like a<br />
snake up the backside of<br />
the mountain. It now sports<br />
broken tufts of dried grass.<br />
Next, in an explosion of<br />
wind, I loose my cap. <strong>The</strong><br />
wind has picked it up as the<br />
truck scuttles over a bump<br />
around one of the many s<br />
curves to the summit. So<br />
my white gimme cap like<br />
a torn spinnaker is blown<br />
from the speeding tuck. A<br />
minute later the bloated<br />
onion- stained sandbags<br />
and gun emplacements<br />
come into view. Dirty<br />
children in faded blue<br />
denim and orange and<br />
bottle green T shirts run<br />
out towards the truck<br />
waving at the truck<br />
frantically as we take this<br />
turn. <strong>The</strong> sun is rising<br />
and I breathe in, saying to<br />
myself,<br />
“What a magnificent<br />
adventure! This moment<br />
we are the heroes in the<br />
dream of life!”<br />
<strong>The</strong> boys are still filming<br />
as we pass the children<br />
waving. <strong>The</strong>n I think of Mr<br />
Vanna and his creepy eyes.<br />
When I remember him I<br />
remember that we are not<br />
allowed to film anything.<br />
Ten minures later we<br />
are climbing, and having<br />
gone through the ritual of<br />
dispensing the cigarettes<br />
to the guards as they linger<br />
at different tiers of the<br />
mountain.. As we reach the<br />
summit, a soldier from the<br />
Previ Hear Temple guard<br />
emerges out from under<br />
the painting, having slept<br />
under the Blue Buddha<br />
picture which he had slept<br />
under the night before,<br />
sullenly waiting for another<br />
cartouche of cigarettes. He<br />
smiles sheepishly as we<br />
hand it to him. He takes it<br />
and walks away with a limp.<br />
His back is hunched and<br />
twisted. I think, “It’s beads<br />
for the natives. People are<br />
that primitive.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> restaurant girl at<br />
the base of the mountain<br />
with long black flowing hair<br />
and ringlets is now near<br />
us puffing from carrying<br />
up the mountain a babyblue<br />
plastic picnic hamper<br />
crammed with food for<br />
the crew. For lunchtime,<br />
Sambo spreads out out the<br />
blue torn tarpaulin we use<br />
to protect the painting at<br />
night and Sre Pich set out<br />
the plates with grilled fish<br />
and white rice with ants<br />
crawling across it. Sre<br />
Pich asks me to sit next to<br />
her her. As we sit crosslegged<br />
together we share<br />
our lunch. Soon it will be<br />
her birthday. I think,”<strong>The</strong><br />
party tomorrow is birthday<br />
present enough.”<br />
In the afternoon I film<br />
with the boys. Mr Mao is<br />
doing the recording. We<br />
talk about where we are<br />
painting. We want to escort<br />
the image of peace into the<br />
No-Mans-Land between<br />
the two sides. In the middle<br />
distance down the hill is a<br />
small nissan hut where the<br />
two sides congregate. An<br />
hour later up on the second<br />
tear level we are visited by<br />
a Buddhist monk in bright<br />
orange veil. He walks up<br />
to us with an odd saunter.<br />
We are the only attraction<br />
apart from the cold granite<br />
stones. So its hard to<br />
ignore us. He looks gay and<br />
carries an ultramarine<br />
blue tattered denim bag<br />
with silver Dement stars<br />
on it. His shaved head has a<br />
pimple on it. Bright green<br />
eyes look out like possums<br />
through bottleneck glasses.<br />
I tell him about what we<br />
are doing. “We are trying to<br />
make a peace conversation<br />
about peace between the<br />
Thais and <strong>Cambodia</strong>ns.”<br />
I show him the message<br />
and the Universal<br />
Declaration for <strong>Peace</strong>.<br />
Standing next to him. I pull<br />
out some printed pieces of<br />
texts in Thai and Khmer<br />
and the mock up image. I<br />
feel the intense heat prickle<br />
my skin, scorching my<br />
brow, while Sre Pich stands<br />
beside me, holding the<br />
parasol. He appears serious<br />
and wrinkles his brow.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re is a twinkle in his<br />
eye. <strong>The</strong> monk nods with a<br />
jerk of his chin, blinks and<br />
smiles. If I was a different<br />
person I might think his<br />
enigmatic presence is<br />
“all knowing.” Now I just<br />
believe he is well meaning<br />
and doesn’t understand<br />
my English. By two in the<br />
afternoon between the two<br />
temples the once empty<br />
field is soon a brimming<br />
crowd of tourists. A<br />
delegation has arrived.<br />
Someone is carrying a flag.<br />
Now they have reached the<br />
summit ready to present<br />
offerings. Sambo whispers<br />
that its a delegation with<br />
a <strong>Cambodia</strong>n film star. A<br />
murmur ripples through<br />
the crowd. Whispers.<br />
Rumors. Conjectures.<br />
Is she a film star with a<br />
minister walking up the<br />
mountain? A small woman<br />
in blue denims and Chanel<br />
sun glasses and a semi<br />
transparent veil with white<br />
skin smiles and then waves<br />
at me fifty meters away. I<br />
wave back with a shy flick of<br />
my wrist and then resume<br />
painting.<br />
In the afternoon while<br />
I continue to paint with<br />
So Pert, Mr Vuthy brings<br />
Sokheng, Sambo and Srey<br />
Pich to the cave. <strong>The</strong>y<br />
are told, (not told but<br />
commanded,) “No cameras<br />
are allowed.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> boys return two<br />
hours later to explain.<br />
“This is a restricted<br />
military area. We went<br />
down the mountain<br />
through jungle and vines.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re was no path. A few<br />
soldiers were guarding<br />
something. Smoking<br />
cigarettes. <strong>The</strong>n we<br />
entered a huge empty<br />
cover but we saw that it<br />
wasn’t empty. It was dark<br />
inside. Wet. Boxes. Lots<br />
of them. Maybe food.”<br />
In Sokheng’s words,<br />
“Its a hidden area. And<br />
mysterious place for the<br />
Khmer military.”<br />
“ Why mysterious?” I<br />
ask.<br />
“Its forbidden because<br />
this is where the military<br />
keep everything. Caves<br />
are the best. Underground<br />
caves even better. “<br />
His brow wrinkles. He<br />
looks scared because he<br />
knows Mr Buthy can be<br />
jailed or fired from his<br />
position as chief soldier<br />
having brought brought<br />
them to this position.<br />
Sambo then walks up<br />
and explains that he has<br />
problem. “I think I have<br />
lost some footage from the