Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
PREVI HEAR JOURNAL <strong>2011</strong> ! <strong>The</strong> <strong>Peace</strong> <strong>Project</strong><br />
PREVI HEAR JOURNAL <strong>2011</strong> ! <strong>The</strong> <strong>Peace</strong> <strong>Project</strong><br />
part of the temple until they<br />
pass through the gateway,<br />
making it impossible to<br />
see the complex as a whole<br />
from any one point. <strong>The</strong><br />
fifth gopura, in the Koh<br />
Ker style, retains traces of<br />
the red paint with which<br />
it was once decorated,<br />
although the tiled roof<br />
has now disappeared. <strong>The</strong><br />
fourth gopura is later, from<br />
the Khleang-Baphuon<br />
periods, and has on its<br />
southern outer pediment, a<br />
depiction of the Churning<br />
of the Sea of Milk. <strong>The</strong> third<br />
is the largest, and is also<br />
flanked by two halls. <strong>The</strong><br />
sanctuary is reached via<br />
two successive courtyards,<br />
in the outer of which are<br />
two libraries.<br />
I think to myself,<br />
“But now they just look<br />
like old ruins. <strong>The</strong> books<br />
have long gone. <strong>The</strong> monks<br />
have gone and so have<br />
the roofs. Just as soon<br />
this picture will no longer<br />
be here. Only the grass,<br />
the wind and the porous<br />
dry stone with the moss<br />
covering it will remain.<br />
Oh and the insects and<br />
soldiers....”<br />
Once we have arrived on<br />
the summit we roll out the<br />
picture and apply the newly<br />
repaired picture to the<br />
stretcher. <strong>The</strong> sun is high<br />
in the sky by now and there<br />
are, as usual, a few if not<br />
one or two tourists. I can’t<br />
see Mr Vanna. So lets make<br />
that one less tourist!<br />
We begin painting. Sre<br />
Pich II is holding umbrella<br />
and in the afternoon the<br />
paint tins. Mr Bora soon<br />
starts holding another<br />
umbrella and begins<br />
whistling a <strong>Cambodia</strong>n<br />
song about Battambong. Su-<br />
Pert follows my actions and<br />
when we do the painting<br />
together he follows my<br />
every command. He’s slow<br />
but he’s enthused by the<br />
project at least. Dib dab...<br />
We had sought out another<br />
artist in Siem Reap who at<br />
first I believed was more<br />
mature and a master in his<br />
own right. But I decided he<br />
was going to be difficult. I<br />
thought to myself,<br />
“I need someone flexible,<br />
open and energetic.<br />
Younger! <strong>The</strong> old man<br />
was going to be too selfimportant,<br />
and too much<br />
a problem. Su- Pert on the<br />
other hand is keen to learn<br />
and enthusiastic.”<br />
As he begins work I look<br />
across at him and think,<br />
“So-Pert is so easy<br />
going and laid back.<br />
Today he has asked t for<br />
his wife to visit. He’s cool<br />
and not so interested in<br />
other women. So its nice<br />
to see a married man<br />
keep to himself.”<br />
We take the wood out<br />
we have brought for the<br />
easel to create a stronger<br />
painting. At lunch Sre<br />
Pich drops the camera on<br />
a rock by accident and I<br />
think we have a problem<br />
now. But it maybe minor.<br />
After lunch filming at<br />
the historical site, Mr<br />
Vuthy explains about<br />
the site. Apparently he<br />
has to ring his superior<br />
to find out if he can do<br />
the interview. He has<br />
received permission from<br />
his Captain to speak on<br />
camera. He’s one of the<br />
tourist police here and<br />
lives on the top of the<br />
mountain. He’s another<br />
one on our payroll.<br />
He coughs and looks<br />
embarrassed. Maybe<br />
he has never been on<br />
camera. <strong>The</strong>n he pauses<br />
and walks away.<br />
Standing with me in the<br />
ruins he explains,<br />
“Preah Vihear Temple<br />
is an ancient temple<br />
built during the reign of<br />
Khmer Empire, that is<br />
situated atop a 525-metre<br />
(1,722 ft) cliff in the<br />
Dângrêk Mountains, in<br />
the Preah Vihear province,<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>.”<br />
I look around. and think,<br />
“It only looks like<br />
crumbling stones. Broken<br />
and jagged.”<br />
But if I squint I can<br />
imagine it as if it was<br />
yesterday and my mind<br />
wonders again,<br />
”How the fuck did they<br />
build this massive temple<br />
in the middle of nowhere<br />
on the top of nowhere?<br />
With what and by whom?<br />
Monks? Soldiers could not<br />
do this. And <strong>Cambodia</strong>ns<br />
now definitely can’t.”<br />
We walk past the to ruin<br />
passing some Japanese<br />
tourists with orange<br />
back packs. <strong>The</strong> sun is<br />
descending and it will be<br />
night soon.<br />
I stare into the distance<br />
across from a granite table<br />
rock balancing on a rocky<br />
crevice. Here there is a<br />
view for many kilometers<br />
across a plain, Prasat<br />
Preah Vihear has the most<br />
spectacular setting of all<br />
the temples. But from<br />
where we are we can only<br />
see the plain. <strong>The</strong> blue<br />
mountains punctuating<br />
the horizon and the sun<br />
setting.<br />
Mr Vunty is halfway<br />
through the talk when<br />
Sambo stops and explains<br />
that sound recorder<br />
memory card is full.<br />
So we must write down<br />
the rest of what he has<br />
to say. So this is what we<br />
wrote:<br />
“In 1962, following a<br />
lengthy dispute between<br />
Thailand and <strong>Cambodia</strong><br />
over ownership, the<br />
International Court of<br />
Justice (ICJ) in <strong>The</strong> Hague<br />
awarded the temple to<br />
<strong>Cambodia</strong>. As a key edifice<br />
of the empire’s spiritual<br />
life, it was supported and<br />
modified by successive<br />
kings and so bears<br />
elements of several<br />
architectural styles.<br />
Preah Vihear is unusual<br />
among Khmer temples in<br />
being constructed along<br />
a long north-south axis,<br />
rather than having the<br />
conventional rectangular<br />
plan with orientation