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PREVI HEAR JOURNAL <strong>2011</strong> ! <strong>The</strong> <strong>Peace</strong> <strong>Project</strong><br />
PREVI HEAR JOURNAL <strong>2011</strong> ! <strong>The</strong> <strong>Peace</strong> <strong>Project</strong><br />
that but lack of<br />
finances mean I need<br />
to juggle my tasks.<br />
Now its juggling a<br />
million lists.”<br />
Daybreak, bird<br />
song and Honda<br />
motorcycle horns.<br />
People are waking up.<br />
As we cruise through<br />
Previ Hear town the<br />
engine coughs and<br />
the red ochre dirt and<br />
crackling dead leaves<br />
streets blow up onto<br />
the windscreen like<br />
an old man spitting<br />
out phlegm from<br />
emphisemia. <strong>The</strong><br />
street is empty except<br />
for five stray dogs,<br />
billowing empty chip<br />
packets made from<br />
shining cellophane<br />
and motor cyclists<br />
going nowhere fast<br />
but somewhere slow.<br />
I need a strong coffee<br />
to wake up. We stop<br />
in the only coffee<br />
shop in town open<br />
at this hour. Its next<br />
to the bus station.<br />
<strong>The</strong> station is really<br />
only a vacant lot that<br />
fills up with buses by<br />
8am. People with scarves<br />
and blank expressions<br />
come up to us asking if<br />
we are leaving by bus for<br />
Phnom Penh! <strong>The</strong> waitress<br />
with black eyes, a swivel<br />
to her hip and a crying<br />
child tugging her dress<br />
is making yellow noodles She was part of the<br />
and watered soup but also film and our work. Six<br />
cafe with condensed milk. months later Sambo was<br />
Once happily caffeinated, told she was 24 years of<br />
we search for a cake shop age and already engaged<br />
to order Sre Pich’s birthday to a thirty-nine year old<br />
cake. Her 16th birthday! doctor. I suppose this<br />
She tells me she has never was the families way of<br />
had a birthday party before insuring she remained<br />
in her life. So as a result of engaged. But it is always<br />
my unfailing generosity disappointing when<br />
or the fact she’s a good families lie to you. Kids,<br />
assistant and the boys need yes, but when they are good<br />
a wrap party I decide we will respectable families who<br />
do this.<br />
lie to your face, I hate it.<br />
“Change her life,” as But that’s what I see. <strong>The</strong><br />
we order it with icing good respectable families<br />
sugar candy droplets. “ are usually mortgaged up<br />
We will have it in Soksan to their assholes trying<br />
restaurant a few days before to present an untroubled<br />
finishing. It can be a wrap middle-class face to the<br />
party for the crew as well. I rest of the neighborhood<br />
will foot the bill, as they say.” , their peers, bosses and<br />
<strong>The</strong>n we take the orders lovers.<br />
from the people there for a Anyhow we order for<br />
cake for Sre Pich’s birthday. the birthday girl Srey Pich<br />
<strong>The</strong> family had told us her the three layered sponge<br />
age was fifteen. I accepted cake with a thick green<br />
their answer without icing that looks like it<br />
question, but thought, “As should be used as mortar<br />
far as I am concerned she for the Sydney Harbor<br />
looks twenty-two. Maybe Bridge cake. <strong>The</strong> words<br />
twenty-five. But hey, whose read “Happy Birthday Sre<br />
counting? And in this world Pich,” scrawled in flowing<br />
people grow up fast here, wedding script across it<br />
that’s for sure!”<br />
in Fluorescent Acid Night<br />
Club pink.<br />
We are the first clients<br />
inside the bank. Its cold<br />
and empty. I can hear the<br />
echo of our footsteps. . I tap<br />
my feet in impatience. Mao<br />
happily stares at his cheap<br />
Nokia phone. He thinks that<br />
if he looks at it hard enough<br />
it will materialize into an<br />
iPhone. We sit and wait.<br />
Impatient and fidgeting I<br />
pull out the white Apple<br />
notebook computer and<br />
begin work on my book-<br />
<strong>The</strong> Word.<br />
Little did I know the<br />
title would soon change<br />
and a month later the<br />
computer would be stolen<br />
in an Audi in Moscow by<br />
a low level bratva. Such<br />
is life! We wait and wait.<br />
Forty minutes pass. Tick<br />
tock! No one comes to our<br />
attention or aid. <strong>The</strong>re is no<br />
ANZ withdrawl ATM here<br />
in Previ Hear town. <strong>The</strong><br />
nearest ANZ is three hours<br />
away by bus in Siem Reap.<br />
Two hours by car. Slowly<br />
the bank with its scuffed<br />
yellow linoleum floor and<br />
crusty certificates in sepia<br />
comes to life. On the walls<br />
I see glossy prints of the<br />
Director of the World Bank<br />
shaking hands with an<br />
Alceida CEO grinning.<br />
He’s bald, of course with<br />
a tweed jacket and looks<br />
like this expedition will<br />
go into his scrap album<br />
next to the photos of him<br />
in the Sechelles with his<br />
secretary.<br />
Mao grins,” It sounds<br />
like Alqueda, doesn’t it.”<br />
Slowly the bank fills with<br />
embarrassed and hushed<br />
customers.<br />
I look around the bank<br />
hall. Its semi-modern. But<br />
that just means it looks<br />
like it comes from the<br />
nineteen-seventies. Not<br />
<strong>2011</strong>. <strong>The</strong>re are sap green<br />
plastic chairs. Military<br />
corporals, old grannies<br />
with wrinkled brows,<br />
brown and wrinkled from<br />
too much sun, rice-paddie<br />
farmers who have come to<br />
deposit savings and small<br />
business men with cheap<br />
plastic attache cases. As<br />
I am waiting with it’s one<br />
computer in the Alceida<br />
Bank a chaotic rattle of<br />
doors and scufflles occurs.<br />
Confusion. <strong>The</strong> drawnout<br />
wait is suggesting<br />
that the staff don’t want<br />
to give us the money. Mao<br />
has his head squashed<br />
against the perspex looking<br />
at a spectacle. <strong>The</strong>re is a<br />
secretary buried deep into<br />
her screen. Mao translates<br />
for me what she says.<br />
“On the form we have<br />
received it says your name<br />
is Dominic Ryan but your<br />
passport says Dominic<br />
Rupert Charles Ryan.’<br />
“Oh God.” I realize<br />
they don’t want to give<br />
me the money. “Four<br />
thousand dollars in this<br />
bank is probably half their<br />
deposits!’<br />
Finally after much<br />
wrangling and arguing<br />
the money is handed over.<br />
Especially since as I claimed<br />
I had received money from<br />
the in this bank a few days<br />
ago from the same person<br />
with my name and passport<br />
the same.<br />
--------------------------------<br />
--------------------<br />
11am<br />
Two hours later we have<br />
returned and are now<br />
prepared to trek up to the<br />
summit to begin the daily<br />
November ritual of art,<br />
photography and peace. Out<br />
of breath we stagger up the<br />
granite steps, surveying<br />
the dusky horizon carrying<br />
the usual back packs<br />
of equipment along the<br />
mountain. As we climb I<br />
find out some interesting<br />
information. Sokkeng as<br />
an side mentions, “Did you<br />
know that the <strong>Cambodia</strong>’s