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Beyond apparel Global Investor, 01/2016 Credit Suisse

Beyond apparel
Global Investor, 01/2016
Credit Suisse

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GLOBAL INVESTOR 1.16 — 41<br />

ECOLOGICAL SUSTAINABILITY<br />

HAND-<br />

SHAKE<br />

OF HOPE<br />

Sustainably produced fashion apparel is chic and hip today. Eco-fashion benefits<br />

customers in stores and cotton farmers in the field. Small labels<br />

and big retailers demonstrate that money can be made with eco-fashion.<br />

BY RUTH HAFEN Freelance writer<br />

T<br />

here is hardly anything that we allow to come closer to<br />

our bodies than cotton. It is the raw material for 40% to<br />

50% of all textiles and the most used natural fiber. Compared<br />

with synthetic fibers, cotton is very absorbent,<br />

capable of absorbing up to 65% of its weight in water. Cotton fabrics<br />

rate as being pleasant to the skin and hypoallergenic. As good as the<br />

properties of cotton fibers are, it is problematic to produce them. The<br />

biggest problem is water consumption. World Wildlife Fund International<br />

(WWF) designates cotton a “thirsty crop” alongside rice,<br />

sugar cane and wheat. The WWF calculates that it takes more than<br />

20,000 liters of water to produce one kilogram of cotton (which yields<br />

something like one T-shirt and a pair of jeans). A remarkable amount<br />

of insecticides and pesticides are also used to grow cotton. Although<br />

cotton is cultivated on only around 2.4% of the world’s farmland, the<br />

crop accounts for 24% of insecticide and 11% of pesticide usage<br />

worldwide. This, in turn, pollutes groundwater, posing a hazard to<br />

human health. For more on dyeing with air, saving gallons of water,<br />

see p. 61<br />

From Aral Sea to salt flat<br />

The Aral Sea is a testament to exactly how thirsty cotton plants are.<br />

Since the middle of the 20th century, water has been diverted from<br />

rivers feeding into the Aral Sea in order to irrigate vast cotton plantations<br />

in both Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. Since 1960, the Aral Sea<br />

has lost some 85% of its surface area and more than 90% of its<br />

volume. Once the world’s fourth-largest inland body of water, the Aral<br />

Sea is now a salt flat. All that remains of Aralskoye More, as Russians<br />

call it, are two outsized puddles. The desiccation of the Aral Sea

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