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Selwyn Times: August 29, 2017

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SELWYN TIMES Latest Christchurch news at www.star.kiwi<br />

Tuesday <strong>August</strong> <strong>29</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 27<br />

Gardening<br />

Potatoes – the veg for gardens of all sizes<br />

• By Paul Hoek<br />

NOT SO many years ago every<br />

quarter-acre section boasted a<br />

large potato patch to feed the<br />

family.<br />

As a tasty, versatile and affordable<br />

addition to any meal, it just<br />

made sense to grow your own.<br />

But as property sizes shrunk, the<br />

demand for growing your own<br />

spuds also diminished.<br />

Not so any more, we’ve seen a<br />

big resurgence in home potato<br />

growing. Gone are the days when<br />

you were obliged to purchase a<br />

2kg bag of seed potatoes to get<br />

your own crop growing. Packs of<br />

five, 10 or 20 seed potatoes cater<br />

for all garden sizes.<br />

Whether you’ve got a small or<br />

large garden, potatoes are a musthave<br />

vegetable. Growing potatoes<br />

is a great way to get children into<br />

gardening, and nothing beats<br />

your own home-grown spuds on<br />

the Christmas table.<br />

So, where to start? With quality<br />

certified seed potatoes. Seed potatoes<br />

look just like regular potatoes<br />

but are usually smaller, and are<br />

certified free of disease, so you<br />

know you’re getting the best start.<br />

Some of the well known varieties<br />

are jersey benne, agria and rua.<br />

The type of potato you choose<br />

to plant will depend largely on<br />

what you want to do with it and<br />

when you want to harvest.<br />

Seed potatoes fit into three<br />

categories – early, early-main and<br />

main crop. Early potatoes are<br />

ready to harvest early, and really<br />

need to be harvested early as<br />

they are not long-term growers.<br />

They also taste a lot better when<br />

harvested early – the classic early<br />

sweet-tasting new potato.<br />

Early-main crop potatoes can<br />

be harvested early to get ‘new’<br />

potatoes, or can happily be left in<br />

the ground until the top growth<br />

dies back and the skins thicken<br />

up. Harvested later, they are no<br />

longer ‘new’ potatoes, but larger<br />

and thicker skinned.<br />

And main crop potatoes need<br />

longer in the ground and should<br />

be left in until the tops die back in<br />

autumn before harvest. They will<br />

be larger, thick-skinned and also<br />

keep well.<br />

If you want to ensure you’re<br />

serving home-grown spuds at<br />

Christmas, plant early potatoes<br />

such as rocket, swift, jersey benne<br />

or cliff kidney. These ones can be<br />

harvested after about 90 days so,<br />

if planted in September, will be<br />

ready for Christmas.<br />

Potatoes also vary in their make<br />

up. Some are called ‘waxy’ potatoes<br />

and these are lower in starch<br />

and hold together much better<br />

when cooking – they are more<br />

suitable for salads, boiling and<br />

casseroles. Others varieties are<br />

called ‘floury’ potatoes and these<br />

ones are higher in starch and<br />

FRESH: The<br />

best way to<br />

check if your<br />

potatoes are<br />

ready is to<br />

loosen the dirt<br />

around a few<br />

of the plants,<br />

put your hand<br />

in the soil and<br />

gently pull<br />

out a spud or<br />

two to check<br />

progress.<br />

ideal for wedges, chips, roasting<br />

and mashing. The earlier potatoes<br />

tend to be more the waxy<br />

types, and the later varieties more<br />

floury.<br />

If you’re looking for a general<br />

purpose potato, try desiree or rua<br />

– these are suitable for most uses.<br />

Leave your seed potatoes in a<br />

light, dry place for a few weeks so<br />

they can start to shoot.<br />

When the shoots are approximately<br />

2cm long they’re ready to<br />

plant. Before doing so, work in<br />

some compost to the soil to make<br />

it more friable and easier for the<br />

potatoes to grow, as well as easier<br />

for you to harvest.<br />

Next, dig a v-shaped trench<br />

about 15cm deep in your garden<br />

and place the potatoes in the bottom<br />

of it – approximately 40cm<br />

apart.<br />

You don’t need to fill the trench<br />

back up at this stage, just cover<br />

the planted potatoes with at least<br />

5cm of soil. New spuds hate frost,<br />

so keep an eye on them and as<br />

the shoots start to push through,<br />

cover them a little more each<br />

week until you have turned your<br />

trench into a mound of 15-20cm<br />

in height after six to eight weeks.<br />

The more growing stem beneath<br />

the soil, the more opportunity<br />

for the plant to produce<br />

potatoes and the bigger your crop.<br />

To keep diseases away, don’t<br />

overhead water your potatoes<br />

excessively. Once planted the<br />

rain should be enough to keep<br />

them going until they’re ready for<br />

harvesting.<br />

I also recommend covering<br />

your potato crop with some<br />

insect-proof netting which will<br />

keep out the potato-tomato psyllid,<br />

a small insect that can cause a<br />

lot of damage.<br />

The best way to tell if your potatoes<br />

are ready is to ‘tickle’ a few<br />

up to check. Get out your trowel<br />

and loosen the dirt around a few<br />

of your potato plants, put your<br />

hand in the soil and gently pull<br />

out a spud or two to check progress.<br />

If your potatoes are small,<br />

cover them up again with dirt and<br />

leave them to grow.<br />

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