Peninsula People Feb 2018

fumed with sesame oil and topped with a raw egg yolk. Small portions of
toasted garlic, shredded scallion, and pine nuts accompanied it, and added
little bursts of flavor and texture. The meat itself was rich and full of flavor,
and the condiments made it an experience that was simultaneously primal
and civilized. If you are at all open minded about flavor and enjoy the taste
of beef, try this – you may be surprised.
The manager, a pleasant fellow named Mr. Koyanagi, had helped suggest
our menu selections and also asked about our beverage preferences. They
have many premium sakes and shochus here but the wine selection is limited,
with only one red wine by the glass. We had tried some shochus with
our starters, but preferred wines with the main course. Mr. Koyanagi mentioned
that he had some bottles that didn’t appear on the list, and offered
a Beaujolais that worked nicely with the meaty flavors to come.
While we nibbled our starters a server fired up the grill in the middle of
our table, which had gas for heat along with charcoal for flavor. When the
first items were demolished he brought the beef, an array of seven different
cuts of meat, attractively presented. A few slices of zucchini, onion, and
pepper were provided too, but this dinner was all about the beef. Five
types were presented unseasoned. One had a sprinkling of sesame seeds
and salt, and one was marinated with soy sauce, sesame, and chopped scallions.
We were encouraged to grill each type rare and take it off before it
became tough.
What followed was a thoughtful carnivore’s dream meal, an exploration
of the flavors and textures of beef. I don’t have room in this article to rhapsodize
about all seven, but suffice it to say that we were engrossed in analyzing
each type. Was the buttery richness of the short rib more enjoyable
than the more fully flavored top sirloin cap? How did that compare with
the ribeye or the chewier tongue or chuck flap tail? Did the flatiron steak’s
marinade and scallions make it the best palate cleanser between unadorned
cuts, or did the marinated flank steak wrapped around a rice ball do that
better? It was a challenge to put our thoughts into words as we savored
each piece.
When we had devoured the beef we had the bibimbap to finish things.
Like yakiniku style cooking, this dish of rice heated in a stone bowl has a
Korean influence, but with the accent on natural flavors rather than high
seasonings. Beef, vegetable, and seafood bibimbaps are offered, and since
we knew we would be in beef overload we decided on vegetable. The rice
had been quietly sizzling and developing a tasty crust as we ate the beef,
and when we mixed everything together there were crusty bits where the
rice and sauce had cooked next to the bowl. The crisped rice with root vegetables,
bean sprouts, and spinach were a fine finish to the meal.
Mr. Koyanagi surprised us with a dessert, steaming cups of dashi soup
with citrusy yuzu added. We’re used to desserts being sweet instead of
umami-laden and scented with seaweed and bonito, but it was strangely
compelling.
Dinner for two with a bottle of wine and two shochus ran $140, remarkably
reasonable for a meal of this caliber. Yakiniku is the style of dining
for people who really want to savor good beef. Yamaya’s preparations of
quality meat hit the balance of simplicity and sophistication. The Japanese
came to eating beef late, but they’ve made up for the lost time.
Yamaya is at 2529 Pacific Coast Hwy., Torrance. Open 11:30 a.m. – 2 p.m.
and 5:30 – 9:30 p.m. Tue-Sun. Parking lot, wheelchairs OK, beer, wine, shochu,
and sake served. Menu hakatayamaya.com. (310) 257-1800. PEN
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February 2018 • Peninsula 55