Issue 558

Queenie Chow
TranslatorRaymond Chow
Olumo Rock - meaning “Under the rock” - is
a popular tourist attraction and important historical
monument located in the ancient capital of Abeokuta
in the Ogun State of Nigeria. Olumo Rock is a gigantic
granite rock formation from which Abeokuta derived its
name. With a height of 137 meters from the base of the
rock, the climb up the irregularly sized rock can be a
breathless hike in the heat. At the summit of the rock,
tourists can enjoy a panoramic view of the city from atop
the rock with a cool breeze.
The Olumo Rock is of significant historical and
religious importance to the people of Egba of the Yoruba
tribe in Nigeria. It was once used as a protective fortress
by the Egba people taking refuge under the rock against
enemies’ attack, particularly during the war with the
Dahomeans from present day Benin republic. Olumo
Rock is also a place guided by the great divine spirit of
the rock. A tale continues to be told amongst the Egba
of a group of Europeans who had blasted the rock in
seeking precious minerals. Blood and pus was said to
have blasted through the crack of the rock blinding
these Europeans. Having offended the god of the rock,
the people appeased the god through sacrificing to the
rock. Until today, once a year every August, sacrifices
and worship continued to be offered at the Olumo Rock
shrine in seeking peace, harmony, wealth and children. In
the past, human beings were sacrificed to worship it but
as civilisation and religion crept in, Olumo rock had to
make do with animal sacrifices. Only two people are ever
allowed to enter the shrine and they are the traditional
chief of Ake and the chief priest.
Inside these rock curves, one will see fascinating
carvings, cowry-studded statues and the ancient abode
of the priestesses who lived in huts on the rock. There
are also slab-like stones serving as seats and holes
which served in grinding pepper in the kitchen used by
the ancient dwellers. Your tour guide will certainly not
miss introducing the magic tree next to the rock where it
is said to be older than 200 years old and continues to
flourish throughout all seasons. Visitors can also request
to talk to the gods through donating to the Egba woman
residing by the tree.
Since the early 2000’s, the government has created
the ‘Olumo Rock Tourist Complex’ where a premise
of fast food joint, museum, escalators and elevators
were built for the use of tourism. Sadly, at the time of
the author’s visit, majority of these functions inside the
rock is malfunctioning as a result of limited tourists.
Nonetheless, Olumo Rock is a walk of living history and
one of the most important representation of the Egba
nationalism. It continues to stand today as a unique
monument inseparably associated with the Nigerian
heroism and freedom.
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ISSUE 558
30.3.2018