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Art in its Time: Theories and Practices of Modern Aesthetics

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THE AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION<br />

the masses (<strong>of</strong> workers or citizens) but <strong>in</strong>dividuals; their goal, as Meyer Schapiro<br />

po<strong>in</strong>ted out <strong>in</strong> a penetrat<strong>in</strong>g essay <strong>of</strong> 1957, is not communication (like the majority<br />

<strong>of</strong> contemporary media), but to <strong>of</strong>fer an experience <strong>of</strong> “contemplativeness <strong>and</strong><br />

communion with the work <strong>of</strong> another human be<strong>in</strong>g.” 23 Comb<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g mural scale<br />

with the <strong>in</strong>dividual address <strong>of</strong> the easel pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g, their mean<strong>in</strong>gfulness rests on<br />

the assumed significance <strong>of</strong> the artist’s preoccupations <strong>and</strong> artistic procedures.<br />

The drama <strong>of</strong> the pa<strong>in</strong>ter’s creative struggle to make his work (I will come back,<br />

once aga<strong>in</strong>, to the artist’s sex) <strong>and</strong> the pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g’s location <strong>in</strong> the ongo<strong>in</strong>g history <strong>of</strong><br />

art must by themselves provide the “<strong>in</strong>terior movement” Greenberg looked for<br />

on a scale sufficient to animate a wall-sized picture. Such a pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g, Schapiro<br />

observed, can compete with <strong>its</strong> environment, <strong>and</strong> “comm<strong>and</strong> our attention fully<br />

like monumental pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the past.” 24 If it is seen as wallpaper, as subject to<br />

repetition or as decorative, this means either the failure <strong>of</strong> the work or the failure<br />

<strong>of</strong> the viewer to grasp <strong>its</strong> autonomous significance.<br />

Pollock’s fellow-artists Mark Rothko <strong>and</strong> Adolph Gottlieb had attempted a<br />

preemptive strike at such read<strong>in</strong>gs or misread<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> a public statement <strong>of</strong> 1943.<br />

“We are for the large shape because it has the impact <strong>of</strong> the unequivocal,” they<br />

wrote. Pr<strong>of</strong>ess<strong>in</strong>g “spiritual k<strong>in</strong>ship with primitive <strong>and</strong> archaic art” they asserted<br />

that their work “must <strong>in</strong>sult anyone who is spiritually attuned to <strong>in</strong>terior decoration.”<br />

25 In 1950, nevertheless, Vogue published a photograph <strong>of</strong> a Rothko<br />

pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g (aga<strong>in</strong> at the Betty Parsons Gallery) <strong>in</strong> an article entitled “Make up<br />

your m<strong>in</strong>d: one-picture wall or many-picture wall” (April 14, 1950). The story<br />

contrasted the large-format Rothko with a “wall space used for a composite stilllife<br />

<strong>of</strong> small pr<strong>in</strong>ts, pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, <strong>and</strong> objects” arranged <strong>in</strong> “an abstract pattern.”<br />

The Rothko was similarly described as “a s<strong>in</strong>gle still-life composed <strong>of</strong> abstract<br />

gradations <strong>of</strong> l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> color.” Despite the apparent differences, the article<br />

<strong>in</strong>sisted, “the wall spaces <strong>in</strong> these two photographs come from the same<br />

impulse—the use <strong>of</strong> a variety <strong>of</strong> shapes <strong>and</strong> colors to make a simple design.”<br />

Abstraction <strong>and</strong> representation alike serve as “still lifes” <strong>of</strong> design elements, as<br />

decoration for a wall. Gone is the impact <strong>of</strong> the unequivocal, the primitive <strong>and</strong><br />

mythic content. In <strong>its</strong> stead we have <strong>in</strong>terior decoration, a sett<strong>in</strong>g—<strong>in</strong> the case <strong>of</strong><br />

the Beaton pictures—for the New S<strong>of</strong>t Look <strong>of</strong> the new decade. In Pollock’s<br />

ideal museum, the liv<strong>in</strong>g figure is a spectator <strong>of</strong> the space-dom<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g work <strong>of</strong><br />

art; <strong>in</strong> Vogue’s version, the work <strong>of</strong> art is a backdrop for the figure who is herself<br />

(aga<strong>in</strong>, sex will have to be discussed) the focus <strong>of</strong> attention.<br />

It is not size per se, therefore, that renders Pollock’s drip pictures perfect backdrops<br />

for the ball gowns <strong>in</strong> Beaton’s illustrations. The use <strong>of</strong> art as prop is<br />

common enough <strong>in</strong> Vogue <strong>and</strong> similar magaz<strong>in</strong>es. Fern<strong>and</strong> Fonssagrives shot<br />

23 Meyer Schapiro, “Recent abstract pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g,” <strong>in</strong> idem, <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Art</strong>: 19th <strong>and</strong> 20th Centuries. Selected<br />

Papers (New York George Braziller, 1978), p. 224. See the <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g discussion <strong>in</strong> de Chassey,<br />

La Pe<strong>in</strong>ture efficace, pp. 240 ff.<br />

24 Ibid., p. 219.<br />

25 Chipp, <strong>Theories</strong>, p. 545.<br />

162

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