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116 PLANET OF SLUMS<br />

Bangalore, of course, is famous for re-creating Palo Alto and<br />

Sunnyvale lifestyles, complete with Starbucks and multiplexes, in its<br />

southern suburbs. According to planner Solomon Benjamin, the<br />

wealthy expats (officially "non-resident Indians") live as they might in<br />

California in "exclusive 'farmhouse' clusters and apartment blocks with<br />

their own swimming pools and health clubs, walled-in private security,<br />

24-hour electrical power backup and exclusive club facilities."73 Lippo<br />

Karawaci in the Tangerang district, west of Jakarta, doesn't have an<br />

American name but is otherwise also a copy of a West Coast suburb,<br />

boasting a more or less self-sufficient infrastructure with hospital,<br />

shopping mall, cinemas, sport and golf club, restaurants and a university.<br />

It also contains internally gated areas known locally as "totally<br />

protected zones."74<br />

The quests for security and social insulation are obsessive and<br />

universaL In both central and suburban districts of Manila, wealthy<br />

homeowners' associations barricade public streets and crusade for slum<br />

demolition. Erhard Berner describes the exclusive Loyola Heights<br />

district:<br />

An elaborate system of iron gates, roadblocks and checkpoints demar­<br />

cates the boundaries of the area and cuts it off from the rest of the city,<br />

at least at nighttime. The threats to life, limb, and property are the over­<br />

whelming common concern of the wealthy residents. Houses are turned<br />

into virtual fortresses by surrounding them with high walls topped by<br />

glass shards, barbed wire, and heavy iron bars on all windows.75<br />

This "architecture of fear," as Tunde Agbola describes fortified<br />

lifestyles in Lagos, is commonplace in the Third World and some parts<br />

of the First, but it reaches a global extreme in large urban societies with<br />

the greatest socio-economic inequalities: South Africa, Brazil,<br />

Venezuela, and the United States.76 In Johannesburg, even before the<br />

73 Solomon Benjamin, "Governance, Economic Settings and Poverty in<br />

Bangalore," Environment and Urbanization 12:1 (April 2000), p. 39.<br />

74 Harald Leisch, "Gated Communities in Indonesia," Cities 19:5 (2002), pp. 341,<br />

344-45.<br />

75 Berner, Defending a Place, p. 163.<br />

76 For a description of Lagos's fortress homes, see Agbola, Arcbitecture of Fear,<br />

pp. 68-69.<br />

HAUSSMANN IN THE TROPICS 117<br />

election of Nelson Mandela, big downtown businesses and affluent<br />

white residents fled the urban core for northern suburbs (Sandton,<br />

Randburg, Rosebank, and so on) which were transformed into highsecurity<br />

analogues of American "edge cities." Within these sprawling<br />

suburban laagers with their ubiquitous gates, housing clusters, and barricaded<br />

public streets, anthropologist Andre Czegledy finds that<br />

security has become a culture of the absurd.<br />

The high perimeter walls are often topped by metal spikes, razor wire,<br />

and more recently, electrified wiring connected to emergency alarms. In<br />

conjunction with portable "panic button" devices, the house alarms are<br />

electronically connected to "armed response" security companies. The<br />

surreal nature of such implicit violence was highlighted in my mind one<br />

day when walking with a colleague in Westdene, one of the more middle­<br />

class neighborhoods of the Northern suburbs. On the streets was<br />

parked a minivan from a local security company that boasted in large<br />

letters on the vehicle's side panel that they respond with "firearms and<br />

explosives." Explosives?77<br />

However, in Somerset West, Cape Town's tony suburban belt, the post­<br />

Apartheid fortress house is being replaced by more innocent homes<br />

without elaborate security hardware. The secret of these gentle residences<br />

is the state-of-the-art electric fence surrounding the entire<br />

subdivision or, as they are locally known, "security village." Tenthousand-volt<br />

fences, originally developed to keep lions away from<br />

livestock, deliver a huge, pulsating shock that is supposed to disable,<br />

without actually killing, any intruder. With burgeoning global demand<br />

for such residential security technologies, South Africa's electric fencing<br />

firms hope to exploit the export market for suburban security.78<br />

Brazil's most famous walled and Americanized edge city is<br />

Alphaville, in the northwest quadrant of greater Sao Paulo. Named<br />

(perversely) after the dark new world in Godard's dystopian 1965 [lim ,<br />

77 Andre Czegledy, "Villas of the Highveld: A Cultural Perspective on<br />

Johannesburg and Its Northern Suburbs," in Richard Tomlinson et al. (eds), Emerging<br />

Jobannesburg: Perspectives on the Postapartbeid City, New York 2003, p. 36.<br />

78 Murray Williams, "Gated Villages Catch on among City'S Super-Rich," Cape<br />

Argus (Cape Town), 6 January 2004. For details on suburban electric fence technology,<br />

see www .electerrific.co.za.

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