AIR May 2019

Gastronomy
MAY 2019: ISSUE 96
French
Twist
Mathieu Viannay arrives on Dubai’s shores with
Rue Royale: a bold concept of traditional French
fare, masterfully tailored to a UAE audience
WORDS : CHRIS UJMA
Pointe, a little dining and
entertainment distinct that sits
pretty on The Palm Jumeirah,
AIRThe
is a microcosm of the culinary options
found across Dubai: from fast food
choices through to refined cuisine.
Still, it was something of a coup
when Rue Royale, helmed by acclaimed
chef Mathieu Viannay, was announced
as part of The Pointe’s opening lineup
– and to understand why, a little
European history is required.
Back in 2008, Viannay – now holder
of the ‘Meilleur Ouvrier De France’
(the nation’s highest creative honour) –
acquired the former glory known as La
Mère Brazier. Not short on sentiment,
he deems it “A moment of destiny”.
The Lyon-based bistro dates back
to 1921, and was founded by Eugénie
Brazier, herself a titan of the culinary
world: Brazier was the first lady to
win three Michelin stars and, in the
restaurant’s heyday, her self-titled
eatery was the place to dine. By 2008,
though, it had become a “tired” (frankly,
dilapidated) version of its former self.
“When I first visited the restaurant it was
old and broken but it had an enduring
spirit, and soul, so I decided ‘Let’s go;
let’s acquire it,’” Viannay recalls.
Settling ownership matters with the
department of Trade and Commerce
in Lyon, he went to work and, to get
to the point, turned Mere Brazier
into a two Michelin Star-experience
with a stellar reputation for sublime
renditions of traditional French fare.
The Pointe, conversely, is the exact
opposite: history in the making, and
place where Viannay was tempted to
lay the foundations of a new dining
concept. “In Lyon I was building
on storied heritage, whereas the
restaurant in Dubai is a different
prospect entirely,” he buzzes. “That
is why Rue Royale is not called ‘La
Mère Brazier Dubai.’ There is a new
story to be told.”
There are subtle links, though. Rue
Royale is the street on which La Mère
Brazier is located. The décor, too,
draws inspiration from the bistro
concept, and Viannay brought some
of the design touches with him. The
aesthetic of the entryway, the glass
façade to the kitchen and the silk
fabric – which graces details of the
dining area – were all imported
(literally, or stylistically) from Lyon.
He calls it “A touch of France with
design notes from Dubai”.
Still, there should be no confusion
that Rue Royale seeks to copy the
French icon. (The menu is not the
same, for starters). “I live in Lyon,
and have cultivated La Mere Brazier
as two Michelin-star cuisine, with 35
people crafting cuisine to delight only
45 covers – it’s a very special concept
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