AIR May 2019

“
Flavours are exquisitely balanced,
while being sensitive to local
cultural requirements
”
AIR
that cannot be replicated,” Viannay
notes. “This concept is ‘prêt-à-porter’ to
La Mère Brazier’s ‘haute couture.’”
Rue Royale is pretty much a whole
new wardrobe. It’s decidedly ‘sans
vin’: alcohol-free, with region-friendly
modifications to interpretations of
French culinary staples. “I accepted the
challenge to impart my ideas as some
families here – Emirati in particular
– want to eat exceptional fine dining
in an environment that conforms to
their cultural dining preferences,” he
enthuses. “We have to respect culture
and because we are in the UAE, I
thought it was an exciting to try and
develop a menu this way.”
While being fine dining, Rue Royale
is for a different palate; “Inspirational
French cuisine with signature dishes”
such as Pate en Croute (of farm chicken
breast, veal, duck liver foie gras and
sweet bread); Pain de Brochet (pike fish
from the River Quiberon, in Hormandine
sauce); Farm Chicken Fricasse de
Volaille (in creamy sauce, accompanied
by pilaf rice). This is real French bistro,
sensitively done.
Even for an awarded master such
as Viannay, circumventing non-halal
ingredients was an all-consuming
adventure. There is no ‘Big Book of
Alternatives’ for him to turn to
for answers; Viannay had to write it.
“For months I put a lot of thought into
this chemistry,” he admits.
For instance, his Beef Filet Rossini
with truffle sauce traditionally
incorporates red wine and cognac.
The chef worked on a replacement
sauce that combines beetroot jus,
balsamic vinegar and cranberry jus.
Another signature dish on the menu is
Pain de Brochet, ordinarily made with
a sauce of pastis or Absinthe, but for
which Viannay crafted a jus of fennel,
reduced with anise – a sauce that
deliciously mimics the original.
“In each instance the taste
is exquisitely balanced, while
being sensitive to local cultural
requirements,” he beams. “Guests
will be delightfully surprised by the
unexpected versions of the dishes. I
debuted the first halal version of Pate
en Croute over a decade ago, and it
was a huge success; the absence of
certain non-conforming ingredients is
counterbalanced by a blend of tastes
that can rival the original.”
He admits that there is “Not much”
in the way of relevant produce from
Dubai to help, and most ingredients
are flown in fresh from France (as
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