Real Food Summer 2019
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
DIANE KOCHILAS: HER GREEK TABLE TO YOURS<br />
Lunds & Byerlys<br />
COMPLIMENTARY<br />
SUMMER <strong>2019</strong><br />
Savor<br />
<strong>Summer</strong><br />
Enjoy an easy outdoor<br />
party menu bursting<br />
with sunny flavors<br />
03<br />
FREE<br />
KOREAN BBQ: Get fired up<br />
5 FRESH HERBS: Add kick to your dishes<br />
PRODUCE REFRESHED: Creative veggie-centric meals
BEAUTIFUL KITCHENS AND<br />
BATHS START IN OUR SHOWROOM.<br />
VISIT TODAY.<br />
763.717.8500<br />
12955 HWY 55,<br />
PLYMOUTH, MN 55441<br />
MingleTeam.com
Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing<br />
stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has<br />
been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about<br />
Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.
contents<br />
Features<br />
20 Take the Party Outdoors<br />
Enjoy your own party with approachable recipes<br />
that burst with sunny flavors and hints of spice<br />
BY ROBIN ASBELL<br />
real food<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong><br />
30 Five Fresh <strong>Summer</strong> Herbs<br />
Add kick to your recipes with basil, cilantro, dill, mint and rosemary<br />
BY PAT CROCKER<br />
40 Produce Refreshed<br />
Elevate your vegetable-based dishes with creative yet simple ideas<br />
RECIPES BY ABRA BERENS<br />
46 Korean Barbecue<br />
Fire up your grill with a fusion of flavors<br />
RECIPES BY BILL KIM WITH CHANDRA RAM<br />
52 Diane Kochilas<br />
Sharing tips from her “Greek Table” to yours<br />
BY TARA Q. THOMAS<br />
Departments<br />
4 Bites<br />
La Cocina: A celebration of culture<br />
RECIPES BY SHANI JONES AND ELVIA BUENDIA<br />
6 Kitchen Skills<br />
Fresh, creamy salad dressings<br />
BY JASON ROSS<br />
8 Contributors<br />
17 Ingredient<br />
Tahini: From salads to dessert<br />
BY LIANNA MATT McLERNON<br />
18 Healthy Habits<br />
Meatless meals<br />
BY ERIK TORMOEN<br />
56 Pairings<br />
Burgers and wine<br />
BY MARY SUBIALKA<br />
CREAMY ASPARAGUS SOUP<br />
WITH TARRAGON (RECIPE PAGE 35)<br />
2 real food spring fall 2017 2015
C<br />
M<br />
Y<br />
CM<br />
MY<br />
CY<br />
CMY<br />
K<br />
39<br />
20<br />
56<br />
Our Cover<br />
Watermelon Salad with Mint (page 22)<br />
Photograph by Terry Brennan<br />
<strong>Food</strong> styling by Lara Miklasevics<br />
recycleMAGAZINElogo_WHITE.pdf 1 6/23/16 2:55 PM<br />
PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN<br />
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF CONTENT MIKE BERGER EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA<br />
ASSOCIATE EDITORS KATIE BALLALATAK, ANNA BJORLIN, LIANNA MATT McLERNON AND ERIK TORMOEN<br />
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KELSEY FISH<br />
VOLUME 15, NUMBER 2 <strong>Real</strong> <strong>Food</strong> magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S, Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402,<br />
612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission<br />
from the publisher. <strong>Real</strong> <strong>Food</strong> is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com<br />
The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on<br />
paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain<br />
healthy, productive and biologically diverse.<br />
summer fall 2009 <strong>2019</strong> real food 3
ites<br />
A Celebration of Culture<br />
Enjoy authentic tastes from across the globe with delicious recipes<br />
from San Francisco’s own communal kitchen<br />
With a mission of cultivating local food entrepreneurs, La Cocina’s flavors are something special. A nonprofit incubator<br />
kitchen located in the Mission District of San Francisco, La Cocina helps its members—primarily women from communities<br />
of color and immigrant communities—build successful food businesses by providing affordable commercial<br />
kitchen space, technical assistance and access to market opportunities. Why? So that anyone can make a living doing what<br />
they love: cooking. To date, the organization has enabled hundreds of women to start their own businesses.<br />
To celebrate its stories of success, La Cocina recently released its first cookbook, “We Are La Cocina,” penned by the organization’s<br />
executive and deputy directors and featuring dishes from more than 50 successful entrepreneurs—including those<br />
featured here—who not only share beloved recipes handed down from generations before, but their inspiring narratives as well.<br />
With culinary creations hailing from Latin America, Africa, South Asia, East Asia, the Middle East and Europe, there’s something<br />
for everyone’s tastes in this diverse book. —Anna Bjorlin<br />
Jerk Chicken<br />
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS, RECIPE BY SHANI JONES, PEACHES PATTIES<br />
Going to Jamaica for the first time, I felt like I belonged. … People would<br />
tell me I was weird, or quiet. I’m just easygoing. And that’s how it felt in<br />
Jamaica. I was able to relate. People were just outside making jerk chicken.<br />
… I feel like, even though I was raised in San Francisco, we had more of<br />
a Caribbean upbringing, from my mom and my grandmother.<br />
3 Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, stemmed<br />
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped<br />
3 medium green onions, chopped<br />
3 garlic cloves<br />
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper<br />
1 teaspoon kosher salt<br />
1 teaspoon ground allspice<br />
1⁄2 teaspoon ground nutmeg<br />
4 sprigs fresh thyme, picked leaves and tender stems<br />
juice of 1 lime<br />
2 tablespoons white vinegar<br />
1⁄2 cup soy sauce<br />
1 tablespoon vegetable oil<br />
8 whole chicken legs<br />
rice, beans and plantains, for serving<br />
1. In a food processor, pulse the chile, onions, green onions, garlic, black pepper, salt, allspice, nutmeg and thyme into a coarse<br />
paste. Transfer the chile mixture to a bowl and combine with the lime juice, vinegar, soy sauce and oil. (The mixture will be very<br />
spicy; be careful while handling, and work in a well-ventilated area.)<br />
2. Place the chicken legs in a large glass dish and pour the jerk marinade on top, turning to completely coat the chicken. Cover and<br />
refrigerate for at least 2 hours to overnight.<br />
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F and lightly grease a rimmed baking sheet. Put the marinated chicken on the pan and pour any remaining<br />
marinade over the top. Bake until the chicken is cooked through (a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh<br />
reads 160°F) and lightly charred in spots, 40 to 45 minutes.<br />
4. Serve with rice and beans and fried sweet plantains.<br />
4 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Pastelitos Tres Leches<br />
(Three-Milk Cupcakes)<br />
MAKES 12 CUPCAKES, RECIPE BY ELVIA BUENDIA,<br />
LA LUNA CUPCAKES<br />
I worked to incorporate some of the flavors available<br />
in the Bay Area with the techniques my mom<br />
used, like adding freshly squeezed orange or carrot<br />
juices and sometimes using thick cream instead of<br />
butter. ... At first, [baking] was just a hobby, but now<br />
I know I just needed more confidence. ... When I<br />
started in the incubator program, I remember being<br />
so impressed with the way the other women were<br />
taking control of their lives and working so hard to<br />
see their dreams come true. It makes me so proud<br />
to know them.<br />
For the Cupcakes<br />
1 cup all-purpose flour<br />
3⁄4 teaspoon baking powder<br />
1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda<br />
1⁄2 teaspoon salt<br />
1⁄2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature<br />
1 cup sugar<br />
2 eggs, room temperature<br />
1 tablespoon vanilla extract<br />
1 cup buttermilk cup<br />
1/4 cup neutral oil<br />
For the Filling<br />
1⁄2 cup evaporated milk<br />
1⁄2 cup sweetened condensed milk<br />
1/4 cup heavy cream<br />
For the Whipped Cream Frosting<br />
1 cup heavy cream<br />
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a standard 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners. Set aside.<br />
2. To make the cupcakes: In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and whisk<br />
to incorporate.<br />
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium<br />
speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.<br />
4. Add the eggs and vanilla and paddle on low until just incorporated. Whisk together the buttermilk and oil.<br />
Add a third of the dry ingredients to the butter mixture, and pour in a third of the buttermilk mixture. Alternate<br />
adding the dry and wet ingredients, ending with the wet.<br />
5. Evenly portion the batter into the prepared muffin cups. Fill each cup about three-quarters full. Bake for<br />
18 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into a cupcake comes out clean.<br />
6. Meanwhile, make the filling: Whisk the milks and cream together to incorporate. Refrigerate until ready to use.<br />
7. To make the frosting: Clean out the bowl of the stand mixer and fit it with the whisk. Beat the cream on<br />
high speed until firm peaks form.<br />
8. To assemble the cupcakes, use a clean meat injector to inject the center of each cupcake with the tres<br />
leches filling, or use a skewer to create small holes in the center of each cupcake and slowly pour in the filling,<br />
waiting as it absorbs. Use 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 ounce for each cupcake. Top each cupcake with a dollop of whipped<br />
cream. The cupcakes can be stored covered in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. <br />
RECIPES AND PHOTOS<br />
FROM “WE ARE LA<br />
COCINA” BY CALEB<br />
ZIGAS AND LETICIA<br />
LANDA. ©<strong>2019</strong><br />
REPRINTED WITH<br />
PERMISSION OF<br />
CHRONICLE BOOKS.<br />
RECIPE IMAGES BY<br />
ERIC WOLFINGER.<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 5
kitchen skills<br />
Salad Days<br />
Make your own fresh, creamy salad dressing to liven up summer<br />
BY JASON ROSS<br />
<strong>Summer</strong> is the time to improve your salad game. It is the time to keep indoor cooking to a<br />
minimum and highlight young tender vegetables, foods off the grill and all the bounty of the<br />
season. You need some solid salad dressing recipes in your repertoire—creamy and tangy,<br />
flavorful and yummy, and not too hard to whip together for lunch or dinner.<br />
Here are two base recipes, one with bacon and the other with tahini, that both have big flavor.<br />
Each can be paired with a variety of foods, and each works on a different technique: emulsifying<br />
and using starches as thickeners. Once mastered, these dressings are easy to modify, and I include<br />
suggestions for other variations such as bacon grilled scallion dressing and tahini ranch dressing.<br />
Use these dressings for sturdier salads such as spinach or kale, or shredded cabbage and<br />
carrot, or as a sauce for grilled poultry and seafood. They would also be good with grilled<br />
vegetables such as asparagus or eggplant, or even as a stand-in for a creative Caesar salad.<br />
Creamy Lemon Tahini Dressing<br />
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS<br />
Tahini is made from just one ingredient, sesame seeds, ground into a paste. So luscious<br />
and smooth, it has rich texture and deep flavor, all from a pale golden seed. Use the depth<br />
and intensity of tahini for a rich dressing with surprisingly smooth texture.<br />
1 garlic clove, finely minced<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
1/3 cup sesame tahini paste<br />
¼ cup water<br />
2 tablespoons lemon juice<br />
2 tablespoons olive oil<br />
1. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the garlic and salt.<br />
Whisk in the tahini.<br />
2. Combine water and lemon juice and slowly add to the tahini mixture.<br />
Depending on the thickness of the tahini, more water may be needed to get<br />
a creamy dressing-like consistency. (Tahini is a starchy puree and, like most<br />
starches, will oddly thicken or clump when mixed with water. Gradually the sauce<br />
will loosen as the amount of liquid increases and incorporates into the tahini.)<br />
3. Next whisk in olive oil.<br />
4. Store in a lidded container or jar, refrigerated, for up to 7 days.<br />
VARIATIONS:<br />
Tahini Ranch Dressing: Add ½ teaspoon garlic powder, ½ teaspoon onion<br />
powder, ½ teaspoon paprika, ½ teaspoon honey and a dash of Tabasco sauce.<br />
Ginger Yogurt Tahini: Substitute 2 tablespoons olive oil with ¼ cup plain<br />
yogurt, and add 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger.<br />
SERVING SUGGESTION: Use tahini dressings with Cucumber Mint Chopped<br />
Salad with Shrimp. For each serving, use 1 cup chopped romaine lettuce, ¼ cup diced<br />
cucumber, ¼ cup diced tomato, 2 tablespoons diced red pepper, 2 tablespoons diced<br />
red onion, 2 tablespoons crumbled feta, 1 tablespoon minced fresh mint, 1/8 teaspoon<br />
salt, grind of black pepper and 2 tablespoons Creamy Lemon Tahini Dressing.<br />
6 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Creamy Bacon Vinaigrette<br />
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS<br />
In this recipe, the starch in the mustard and shallots help to form the emulsion, and<br />
the bacon drippings give the dressing a smooth texture. Adding oil to the bacon<br />
drippings will help keep the dripping liquid at room temperature so it doesn’t<br />
become solid and greasy. It also mellows the flavor, which can get a little rich and<br />
overpowering.<br />
1 medium shallot, minced<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar<br />
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard<br />
1 teaspoon water<br />
1 tablespoon finely sliced chives<br />
pinch black pepper<br />
6 slices bacon cut into ½ inch<br />
or smaller pieces<br />
1/3 cup olive oil<br />
2 tablespoons sour cream<br />
1. Toss minced shallot with salt in a small mixing bowl. Wait a few minutes for<br />
the shallot to moisten and soften in the salt. This will help cut the heat and<br />
bite of the raw shallot and draw out moisture.<br />
2. Whisk red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard, water, chives and black pepper into<br />
the bowl of shallot. Set aside.<br />
3. Put the cut bacon in a medium sized sauté pan on medium low heat. Cook<br />
the bacon, stirring often with a wood spoon, until fully crisped, about 8 minutes.<br />
4. Turn off the heat. Strain bacon drippings into a medium sized mixing bowl<br />
and add oil to the strained fat. Remove cooked bacon and store in a small<br />
container at room temperature for up to 7 days. These tasty morsels are great<br />
with almost anything, but especially salads.<br />
5. Slowly drizzle the bacon drippings and oil mixture into the shallot and<br />
vinegar mixture, whisking constantly and vigorously until all the oil has been<br />
added. Whisk in sour cream to finish dressing.<br />
6. Store in a lidded container or jar, refrigerated, for up to 7 days. Shake or<br />
whisk before serving, and serve at room temperature.<br />
VARIATIONS:<br />
Bacon Blue Cheese Dressing: Substitute 1/3 cup sour cream for 1/3 cup neutral<br />
oil, and add 3 to 4 tablespoons blue cheese crumbles.<br />
Bacon Grilled Scallion Dressing: Substitute 1 tablespoon chives for ½ bunch<br />
scallions brushed with oil, grilled and chopped.<br />
SERVING SUGGESTION: Try bacon dressings with a Spinach and Grilled<br />
Chicken Salad to make it a meal. For each serving use 11/2 cups baby spinach,<br />
1 tablespoon crispy bacon pieces (from dressing), 1 grilled chicken breast,<br />
1 sliced mushroom, 2 tablespoons blue cheese crumbles, ¼ cup grated<br />
carrot, 1/8 teaspoon salt, grind of black pepper and 2 tablespoons Creamy<br />
Bacon Vinaigrette. <br />
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN<br />
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS<br />
NUTRITION<br />
CREAMY LEMON TAHINI DRESSING:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 90 (74 from fat); FAT<br />
9g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 159mg; CARB<br />
3g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g<br />
CREAMY BACON VINAIGRETTE:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 149 (144 from fat); FAT<br />
16g (sat. 4g); CHOL 8mg; SODIUM 204mg; CARB<br />
1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 7
contributors<br />
Robin Asbell spreads the<br />
word about how truly delicious and<br />
beautiful whole, real foods can be<br />
through her work as an author,<br />
cooking teacher and private chef.<br />
She likes to create delicious dishes<br />
that range from meat and seafood to<br />
beans and grains using global flavors.<br />
Her latest book is “Plant-Based<br />
Meats.” She is also the author of<br />
“300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your<br />
Vitamix,” “Great Bowls of <strong>Food</strong>: Grain<br />
Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls<br />
and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan: Over<br />
350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All<br />
Delicious”; “The New Vegetarian”; and<br />
“Gluten-Free Pasta.”<br />
Lara Miklasevics began her<br />
food career on the other side of the<br />
camera, cooking at the renowned<br />
New French Café in Minneapolis.<br />
Today her work as a stylist is in<br />
demand at corporations including<br />
Heinz, Target and General Mills, as<br />
well as with many magazines. She<br />
prides herself on using her experience<br />
as a chef to make food as appealing<br />
on the page as it is on the plate.<br />
Tara Q. Thomas intended to<br />
be a chef when she trained at the<br />
Culinary Institute of America in New<br />
York but got sidetracked by wine.<br />
She has been writing about it<br />
for nearly 20 years now, most<br />
prominently at Wine & Spirits<br />
Magazine, where she is executive<br />
editor. Author of “The Complete<br />
Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics” and a<br />
contributor to “The Oxford Companion<br />
to Cheese” and the forthcoming<br />
“The Oxford Companion to Spirits<br />
and Cocktails,” she also sits on the<br />
advisory panel for the International<br />
Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training<br />
Program. She lives in Brooklyn, New<br />
York, juggling a laptop and two small<br />
children. She still cooks nearly nightly,<br />
albeit for a smaller crowd.<br />
Abra Berens is the chef at<br />
Granor Farm in Three Oaks, Michigan.<br />
She trained at Ballymaloe in County<br />
Cork, Ireland, and Zingerman’s<br />
Delicatessen in Ann Arbor, Michigan.<br />
She strives to connect people with<br />
their food both through dinners and<br />
progressive food policy, helping to<br />
further a food system that protects<br />
our environment through agriculture,<br />
helps farmers earn a living wage, and<br />
waste as little food as possible. She<br />
lives in Galien, Michigan, with her<br />
husband, Erik, and their two dogs.<br />
8 real food summer <strong>2019</strong><br />
Terry Brennan is a<br />
photographer based in Minneapolis,<br />
Minnesota. Clients include Target,<br />
General Mills, Land O’Lakes and<br />
Hormel. “Working with <strong>Real</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />
is a highlight for me—I look forward<br />
to every issue. I love working with<br />
the creative team and, of course,<br />
sampling the wonderful recipes.”<br />
Jason Ross is a chef consultant<br />
for restaurants and hotels, developing<br />
menus and concepts for multiple high<br />
profile properties. He trained and grew<br />
up in New York City but now calls<br />
St. Paul, Minnesota, home. Currently,<br />
he teaches the next generation of chefs<br />
at Saint Paul College Culinary School.<br />
Pat Crocker is a professional<br />
home economist and culinary herbalist<br />
with a passion for healthy food. Her<br />
knowledge and love of herbs has<br />
been honed over more than four<br />
decades of growing, studying,<br />
photographing, experimenting with<br />
and writing about what she calls<br />
“the helping plants.” In fact, Crocker<br />
marries the medicinal benefits<br />
of herbs in every original recipe<br />
she develops. Crocker has written<br />
22 herb/healthy cookbooks, including<br />
“The Healing Herbs Cookbook,” “The<br />
Juicing Bible” and most recently,<br />
“The Herbalist’s Kitchen.”
Lunds & Byerlys<br />
welcome<br />
Bloomington: 952-896-0092<br />
Burnsville: 952-892-5600<br />
Chanhassen: 952-474-1298<br />
Eagan: 651-686-9669<br />
Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000<br />
Edina<br />
50th Street: 952-926-6833<br />
France Avenue: 952-831-3601<br />
Golden Valley: 763-544-8846<br />
Maple Grove: 763-416-1611<br />
Minneapolis<br />
Downtown: 612-379-5040<br />
Northeast: 612-548-3820<br />
Uptown: 612-825-2440<br />
Minnetonka<br />
Glen Lake: 952-512-7700<br />
Highway 7: 952-935-0198<br />
Ridgedale: 952-541-1414<br />
Navarre: 952-471-8473<br />
Plymouth: 763-268-1624<br />
Prior Lake: 952-440-3900<br />
Richfield: 612-861-1881<br />
Roseville: 651-633-6949<br />
St. Cloud: 320-252-4112<br />
St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100<br />
St. Paul<br />
Downtown: 651-999-1600<br />
Highland Park: 651-698-5845<br />
Wayzata: 952-476-2222<br />
White Bear Lake: 651-653-0000<br />
Woodbury: 651-999-1200<br />
SHOP ONLINE<br />
Shop.LundsandByerlys.com<br />
CATERING<br />
LundsandByerlys.com/Catering<br />
952-897-9800<br />
L&B EXTRAS<br />
Get extra offers and tools to make<br />
shopping easier.<br />
LundsandByerlys.com/Extras<br />
Precious Time<br />
While I’ve always enjoyed our state’s<br />
four great seasons, I must admit<br />
that with extremely cold temps<br />
and snow that reached up to our mailboxes<br />
I was really looking forward to warm and<br />
sunny summer days.<br />
And, now, with Old Man Winter in our<br />
rearview mirror—at least for another six<br />
months—it’s amazing how quickly our calendars<br />
fill up during these summer months.<br />
Between grad parties, weddings, trips to<br />
the cabin, our kids’ activities, backyard<br />
barbecues with family and friends and more,<br />
there’s so much fun to be had and seemingly<br />
so little time to fit it all in.<br />
One of the many ways we here at Lunds<br />
& Byerlys can provide a helping hand is with<br />
online grocery shopping.<br />
We have more than 40,000 products to<br />
choose from at Shop.LundsandByerlys.com.<br />
When you place an order, it’s fulfilled with<br />
your exact specifications by our Personal<br />
Shoppers who walk the aisles just as if you<br />
were doing the shopping yourself. My family<br />
has used our online shopping service<br />
extensively over the years, and we find it to<br />
be an amazing time saver.<br />
As I’ve shared previously, we are always<br />
enhancing and refining our online shopping<br />
service to provide you with a truly sensational<br />
shopping experience. And we’ve also<br />
recently made it even more convenient to<br />
shop with us online.<br />
While we have always offered delivery<br />
throughout the Twin Cities, we now have<br />
curbside pick-up available at every one of<br />
our stores. That means there are 27 locations<br />
throughout the Twin Cities where you<br />
can pick up your online order without ever<br />
having to even leave your car!<br />
So, whether you’re heading to the cabin,<br />
home from a long day at work, or have just a<br />
little time between your kids’ activities, you<br />
can have us do the shopping for you so you<br />
can quickly pick up all of your groceries at<br />
a time that works for your busy schedule.<br />
We hope you enjoy all that our great<br />
Minnesota summers have to offer. And we<br />
thank you for giving us the opportunity to<br />
serve you!<br />
Sincerely,<br />
Tres Lund<br />
President and CEO<br />
DOWNLOAD OUR APP<br />
LundsandByerlys.com/Mobile<br />
STAY CONNECTED<br />
Follow us on social media<br />
and sign up for our e-newsletter.<br />
LundsandByerlys.com/StayConnected<br />
FOOD QUESTIONS?<br />
Call our <strong>Food</strong>E Experts: 952-548-1400<br />
REAL FOOD COMMENTS<br />
Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663<br />
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9
Lunds & Byerlys<br />
services<br />
Save Time. Shop Online.<br />
Enjoy the same great products you love—and extra convenience<br />
Day-to-day life can be hectic, and often just picking up a gallon of milk or ingredients<br />
for dinner means an extra stop in an already packed schedule. That’s where we come<br />
in! Lunds & Byerlys Online Shopping will fill up your fridge in no time.<br />
For over 10 years, Lunds & Byerlys Online Shopping has been a convenient, hassle-free way<br />
to get the same great products you know and love delivered to your door or ready for you to<br />
pick up at our stores. In 2016 we debuted a new online shopping platform that we have continued<br />
to expand as more and more of us look for time-saving ways to get groceries quickly.<br />
Our fully integrated online shopping experience allows you to create your online order on<br />
our desktop site and finish it on your mobile phone or app. This provides a consistent and<br />
convenient way for you to order groceries from wherever you are.<br />
The online shopping site also features personalization across the entire shopping experience.<br />
This means at every step of the shopping journey—from the homepage to product collections<br />
and recommendations—the platform will display the most relevant items based on your<br />
purchase history and ongoing transactions.<br />
Plus, our L&B Extras program allows you to track past purchases you have made both in<br />
our stores and online so you can quickly and easily reorder specific items or an entire shopping<br />
list. And you’re able to save even more when you shop online by using digital coupons<br />
and L&B Extras offers. All it takes is a quick click to “clip” coupons to your account so you<br />
can redeem them at checkout.<br />
Once you place an order, your work is done. Personal shoppers in our stores hand-select<br />
your order to ensure you receive the freshest items available. Then our delivery drivers bring<br />
your groceries directly to the front door of your Twin Cities area home or business. Or, if it’s<br />
more convenient, you can opt for curbside pickup at all 27 Lunds & Byerlys stores. Orders<br />
can be picked up or delivered on the same day they’re placed as time slots are available, which<br />
makes it even more convenient to get what you need, when you need it.<br />
And now you can subscribe and save! Take advantage of our online shopping subscriptions,<br />
which allow you to pay one price for unlimited pickup. For a 30-day subscription you pay just<br />
$9.99 and a 90-day subscription is $24.99.<br />
We strive to provide a unique shopping experience for every single customer, and we’re<br />
confident our online shopping platform will provide that experience to you. <br />
Visit Shop.LundsandByerlys.com<br />
to try our online shopping site today.<br />
10 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
PECULIAR PRODUCE<br />
Organic Rainbow Carrots<br />
These brightly colored<br />
beauties offer distinct<br />
flavors and are packed<br />
with vitamin A and beta<br />
carotene. Available<br />
year-round.<br />
Heirloom Tomatoes<br />
Heirloom tomatoes come<br />
in a rainbow of colors<br />
and sizes and are known<br />
for their deep flavor and<br />
intense vitamin content.<br />
Available year-round.<br />
Gold Nugget Mandarins<br />
These citrus gems are<br />
seedless and easy to<br />
peel. Their well-balanced<br />
flavor is sweet, yet<br />
slightly tart. Available<br />
March-June.<br />
Shishito Peppers<br />
The bright green,<br />
finger-sized peppers<br />
have delicate skin that<br />
lends itself to charring.<br />
They have a lively, sweet<br />
flavor with a hint of<br />
smokiness. Available<br />
year-round.<br />
Golden Berries<br />
The bright orange<br />
berries have a sweet,<br />
tropical taste reminiscent<br />
of a pineapple or mango.<br />
Available year-round.<br />
White Asparagus<br />
White asparagus is<br />
grown underground<br />
so chlorophyll isn’t<br />
produced, which ensures<br />
the elegant white color<br />
and delicate, slightly<br />
sweet flavor. Available<br />
March-June.<br />
Champagne Mangoes<br />
Champagne mangoes<br />
have a glowing golden<br />
skin. The kidney-shaped<br />
mangoes are delicate<br />
and tender with an<br />
intensely sweet<br />
flavor. Available<br />
February-August.
Lunds & Byerlys<br />
wine and spirits<br />
BOOZY<br />
ICE POPS<br />
Celebrate summer with<br />
the ultimate cocktail hour<br />
cool down! Try some of our<br />
favorite adults-only treats<br />
at your next get-together.<br />
Wine on a Stick<br />
MAKES 1 POP<br />
A refreshing ice pop made out of your favorite summer wine<br />
or cocktail. Delicious made with your favorite sangria recipe, too!<br />
½ ounce Powell & Mahoney Peach Bellini Cocktail Mixer<br />
2 ounces Prosecco<br />
1. Fill an ice pop mold 1/3 of the way with Bellini mixer.<br />
2. Pour Prosecco to top the rest of the mold and freeze overnight.<br />
Boozy Orange Creamsicle Pops<br />
MAKES 12 POPS<br />
A favorite childhood treat updated with an adults-only twist!<br />
12 ounces vodka<br />
24 ounces pulp-free orange juice<br />
6 ounces full fat coconut milk<br />
1 tablespoon vanilla extract<br />
1. Blend all ingredients together.<br />
2. Pour into ice pop molds and place in freezer overnight<br />
or until completely frozen.<br />
12 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Lunds & Byerlys<br />
wine and spirits<br />
Rosé Pops<br />
MAKES 1 POP<br />
A delicious way to enjoy rosé on the<br />
hottest days of summer.<br />
1 ounce rosé<br />
¾ ounce juice or mixer (we used<br />
orange and cranberry juice)<br />
fresh fruit, chopped or sliced<br />
(we used sliced peaches<br />
and berries)<br />
1. To each ice pop mold, add 1 ounce<br />
rosé, ¾ ounce juice or mixer and fruit<br />
of your choice.<br />
2. Add ice pop tops and sticks; freeze<br />
overnight.<br />
Gin & Tonic Ice Pops<br />
MAKES 1 POP<br />
This recipe makes the quintessential<br />
summer refresher even cooler.<br />
2 limes<br />
1 ounce gin<br />
2 ounces tonic water<br />
½ ounce fresh lime juice<br />
1. Place two lime slices in each<br />
ice pop mold.<br />
2. For each ice pop, mix together<br />
gin, tonic and lime juice. Pour<br />
into ice pop mold and place in<br />
the freezer overnight or until<br />
completely frozen.<br />
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13
Lunds & Byerlys<br />
what’s in store<br />
JAVA HOUSE COLD BREW<br />
LIQUID PODS AND BOTTLES<br />
Java House Cold Brew liquid pods and ready-to-drink bottles make<br />
authentic cold brew accessible anytime, anywhere. The dual-use liquid<br />
pods can be enjoyed hot or cold and result in a smooth, rich taste.<br />
And the cold brew bottles come in pure black, lightly sweet and frappé,<br />
which means there is a perfect pick-me-up for everyone’s taste.<br />
Did you know? Java House Cold Brew is made with 100 percent<br />
Arabica coffee beans. This variety of bean grows at a higher altitude<br />
and has a less bitter and smoother flavor than its counterpart,<br />
Robusta bean.<br />
VOSGES HAUT-CHOCOLAT<br />
CHOCOLATE BARS<br />
Vosges Haut-Chocolat’s intriguing chocolate creations are the brainchild<br />
of founder and chocolatier Katrina Markoff. Katrina and team fuse spices,<br />
nuts, roots, herbs and liqueurs from around the world with premium<br />
chocolate. Exotic chocolate bars include a pink Himalayan crystal salt<br />
caramel bar, dulce de leche chocolate bar and turmeric ginger chocolate<br />
bar. The caramel marshmallows include black salt coconut nib, blood<br />
orange hibiscus, Alderwood smoked salt and roasted walnut pecan.<br />
Tip: Pair your chocolate with a beverage! The roasted walnut pecan<br />
caramel marshmallows pair well with a rich imperial or chocolate stout<br />
while the black salt coconut nib caramel marshmallows go perfectly<br />
with a Dark ‘n’ Stormy cocktail.<br />
Q DRINKS LIGHT<br />
The bold, crisp taste of Q Drinks’ spectacular nonalcoholic mixers is<br />
now available in “light” varieties. <strong>Real</strong> ingredients are carefully crafted<br />
to create beverages that are ultra-carbonated and less sweet, which<br />
allows the subtleties of great spirits to shine through. Light flavors<br />
include tonic water and ginger beer.<br />
Did you know? Q Drinks started with a question: Shouldn’t my<br />
tonic be as good as my gin? And with that, founder Jordan Silbert spent<br />
four years perfecting a spectacular tonic water. Each flavor is created<br />
the same way—with careful attention to detail and lots of testing.<br />
14 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Lunds & Byerlys<br />
what’s in store<br />
L&B FRUIT CURDS<br />
Our new L&B fruit curds are bright and citrusy, which makes them<br />
the perfect warm weather indulgence. Made with fresh citrus juice<br />
and real cane sugar, these sweet-tart curds are perfect paired with<br />
your favorite bakery treats such as angel food cake, pound cake and<br />
shortbread cookies. Flavors include key lime and lemon.<br />
Tip: Elevate your breakfast by swirling our L&B fruit curds into your<br />
yogurt, slathering on pancakes or drizzling over fresh berries.<br />
LEGAL SEA<br />
FOODS<br />
SAUCES &<br />
DRESSINGS BY<br />
STONEWALL<br />
KITCHEN<br />
For over 60 years, Legal Sea <strong>Food</strong>s<br />
has been delighting customers at its<br />
East Coast restaurants with its New<br />
England-inspired menu. Now you’re<br />
able to enjoy the signature sauces<br />
at home. The versatile products<br />
include spicy cocktail sauce, house tartar sauce, chipotle tartar sauce,<br />
house vinaigrette and lemon dill marinade and dressing.<br />
Tip: Dress up a homemade po’boy with the smoky chipotle tartar<br />
sauce and try the house vinaigrette on a simple green salad or as<br />
a tangy marinade for shrimp or swordfish.<br />
L&B MEAL<br />
CREATIONS<br />
MEAL KITS<br />
Take the guesswork out of dinner<br />
with our L&B Meal Creations meal kits.<br />
L&B Meal Creations offers restaurantquality<br />
meals in the comfort of your<br />
own home. Each meal kit features a<br />
chef-crafted recipe that serves two<br />
and takes just 40 minutes or less to<br />
prepare. Whether you’re short on time<br />
or looking for new recipes, L&B Meal<br />
Creations will let you enjoy preparing<br />
a home-cooked meal with fewer steps<br />
and delicious results.<br />
Did you know? L&B Meal Creations<br />
meal kits are available in all Lunds<br />
& Byerlys stores and online at<br />
shop.LundsandByerlys.com. Plus,<br />
there’s no hard-to-cancel subscription!<br />
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15
Turn Up the Heat<br />
Spice up your kitchen routine with this 30-inch, 5-burner<br />
freestanding gas range from Beko. Warners’ Stellian, Minnesota’s<br />
exclusive retailer of Beko, offers free delivery and appliance<br />
haul-away on orders $ 499 or more, plus professional installation<br />
from specialists you can trust.<br />
Enter to win this<br />
professional-style range<br />
Text RANGE to 55955 or<br />
visit lundsandbyerlys.com/range<br />
COON RAPIDS MAPLE GROVE EDINA WOODBURY ST. PAUL<br />
APPLE VALLEY ROCHESTER SOUTH MINNEAPOLIS SHAKOPEE<br />
NOW OPEN IN NORTHEAST MINNEAPOLIS<br />
Model PRGR34550SS has a value of $2799.<br />
Visit LundsandByerlys.com/range for contest rules and alternative forms of entry.<br />
Minnesota family owned
ingredient<br />
A Taste of Tahini<br />
Find the versatile ingredient in everything from salads to desserts<br />
TAHINI CHANDLERVID85 - ADOBE STOCK MOUSSE ©MIZINA - ADOBE STOCK<br />
BY LIANNA MATT MCLERNON<br />
A<br />
common way to explain tahini is that it is like the peanut butter of<br />
sesame seeds, and cooks and bakers are clearly taking that to heart.<br />
Now instead of only finding the sesame seed paste in Middle Eastern<br />
and Mediterranean cooking—it’s a mainstay in hummus—it can be added to<br />
salad dressing, smoothies, and swirled in desserts like brownies and more.<br />
Tahini can be made with just sesame seeds, but oftentimes some<br />
oil is added for a desirable consistency. The simplest tahinis are not as<br />
sweet as other nut butters, and while all are creamy, the taste varies a bit<br />
depending on how it is made. Un-hulled, whole sesame seeds have more<br />
nutritional impact than hulled sesame seeds, and they give off a nuttier<br />
flavor. Tahini made from black sesame seeds has more of a roasted flavor,<br />
whereas tahini made from white, hulled sesame seeds has a milder taste.<br />
The sesame seeds technically don’t have to be toasted to make<br />
tahini, but while raw seeds are more nutritious, they can taste bitter. Some<br />
tahini recipes spice up the flavor with seasonings like lemon juice or garlic,<br />
and some options go the sweet route with the addition of chocolate.<br />
Tahini is popular in vegetarian and vegan dishes because it has 5 grams<br />
of protein, 3 grams of fiber and 16 grams of healthy fat per 2 tablespoons,<br />
making for a very filling component to any dish. In that same serving,<br />
you’ll get 12 percent of your recommended daily value of calcium,<br />
14 percent of your iron and 6 percent of your magnesium, which helps<br />
bone and muscle health, oxygen transportation, and heart health<br />
and blood pressure, among other things. These and other nutrients<br />
in tahini also contribute to anti-inflammation and antioxidation<br />
to help your overall health.<br />
With how versatile it is, you can find all sorts of places to slip<br />
a little tahini—and therefore a little extra nutrition—into your<br />
diet. Just remember to stir and then refrigerate it to store<br />
once you’ve opened a container; otherwise, it will go bad<br />
more quickly. You can find tahini in a few places, depending<br />
on where you get it, such as in the peanut butter aisle, near<br />
other nut or seed butters, or an ethnic food aisle.<br />
For a quick and easy way to start loving tahini (especially<br />
if you’re vegan), try slipping it into this chocolate<br />
mousse or flip to page 6 to find it in<br />
a creamy salad dressing. <br />
Chocolate Mousse<br />
MAKES 3 CUPS, RECIPE BY PETA<br />
2 (12.3-ounce) boxes extra-firm silken tofu<br />
½ cup unsweetened soy milk<br />
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon cocoa powder<br />
½ cup maple syrup<br />
2 teaspoons vanilla essence<br />
2 tablespoons cashew butter<br />
1 tablespoon tahini<br />
pinch of sea salt<br />
1. Blend all of the ingredients in a food<br />
processor until smooth and creamy.<br />
It can be stored in the refrigerator for<br />
up to 1 week.<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 17
healthy<br />
habits<br />
Meatless Meals<br />
Dialing back on meat doesn’t have to mean<br />
a drastic dietary change you might dread<br />
BY ERIK TORMOEN<br />
How much red meat is OK to eat? One hamburger a week,<br />
according to 37 scientists in a report released early this<br />
year with advocacy group EAT Forum. It’s not a new idea:<br />
Studies have shown that eating more plants and less meat<br />
can reduce risks of obesity, diabetes, cardiovascular disease,<br />
inflammation, premature death and lifestyle-related cancers.<br />
Think about red and processed meats, says Kristen Frie, a<br />
registered dietitian nutritionist with the Mayo Clinic Healthy<br />
Living Program in Rochester, Minnesota. Beef and pork are<br />
loaded with saturated fat. Cutting down on saturated fat<br />
can lessen your chances of developing cardiovascular and<br />
inflammatory diseases and, because it packs a ton of calories,<br />
can help with weight management, too.<br />
Meanwhile, plant-based foods boast antioxidants that aid<br />
in cancer prevention. That’s part of why vegetables, nuts,<br />
beans and whole grains play such an active role in highly rated<br />
healthy-eating guides like the Mediterranean diet, the DASH<br />
diet and the Mayo Clinic Diet.<br />
“I would recommend not to think of it as an all-or-nothing,<br />
black-and-white commitment,” Frie says. “It doesn’t have to<br />
be ‘I eat meat all the time’ or ‘I don’t eat meat at all.’” For selfproclaimed<br />
carnivores, there are simple guidelines for noshing<br />
on more plants, plus tricks for dressing up mock meats.<br />
1. KEEP WHAT YOU LIKE.<br />
You may already have meatless eating habits. Consider<br />
what those are, and draw them out. “Maybe you already eat<br />
spaghetti with marinara sauce, and you never even thought<br />
of that as a meatless option, but you like it,” Frie says. “Maybe<br />
you have that more frequently than you otherwise would.”<br />
2. EMBRACE NEW PROTEINS.<br />
A common sticking point when limiting meat is the loss of an<br />
easy, concentrated protein. But protein comes in many forms—<br />
like beans, legumes, lentils, nuts, seeds, quinoa, tofu and eggs.<br />
“Could you use more beans and legumes [to substitute for] half<br />
of the ground beef you use in chili?” Frie poses. “Or could you<br />
use tofu to replace the meat you were going to use in a stirfry?”<br />
These proteins, along with their higher fiber content<br />
in some cases, satisfy hunger the same way meats do. (If you<br />
still want an animal protein, better options than red meat<br />
include chicken and turkey breast and any type of fish, Frie<br />
says—bearing in mind how they’re prepared.)<br />
3. BE OPEN TO DIFFERENT FLAVORS.<br />
Of course, taste is another barrier. Chef Robin Asbell has<br />
written 10 cookbooks geared toward vegetarians, vegans and<br />
the health-conscious. Her latest, “Plant-Based Meats: Hearty,<br />
High-Protein Recipes for Vegans, Flexitarians and Curious<br />
Carnivores,” looks specifically at ways to prepare mock meats.<br />
Asbell knows the common response when anyone bites<br />
into a “real” burger alongside a mock burger: “I can taste<br />
the difference.”<br />
“Well, that’s obvious,” she says. A patty made of beets,<br />
walnuts and potato (see the recipe for Beefy Beet Burgers on<br />
the opposite page) will probably never taste exactly like beef.<br />
“It’s very lighthearted when I’m out with the vegans and<br />
people are making a mock chicken wing, as is in my book,”<br />
she says. “Plant-Based Meats” features wings—buffalo, crispy,<br />
pomegranate-glazed—made of tofu or cauliflower. “It’s a fun<br />
way to eat something that’s familiar and tasty, but I don’t think<br />
anyone is really thinking that that’s a chicken wing.” Rather,<br />
it’s a way her “curious carnivores” can warm up to meat<br />
substitutes. And, Asbell says, the faux-meat industry is<br />
booming. “They’re making leaps and bounds in making things<br />
tastier and more interesting,” she says, noting in her book,<br />
“If you shop carefully, there are some clean meatless meats<br />
at the store, and the options grow every day.”<br />
4. FOCUS ON UMAMI, NOT MEAT.<br />
Asbell covers the keys to a good faux: For the Beefy Beet Burger,<br />
walnuts and potatoes imitate the chew of ground beef, and the<br />
PROTEINS COLNIHKO - ADOBE STOCK<br />
18 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
eets even “bleed.” “And then there’s some smoked<br />
salt in there and a little tamari [a type of soy sauce],<br />
to give it some smoke and umami,” she says.<br />
Don’t overlook umami. One of five basic tastes,<br />
this savory profile comes out especially in cooked<br />
meats. But you can find the same “meaty” chemicals<br />
in mushrooms, ripe tomatoes and fermented<br />
ingredients such as miso paste and soy sauce.<br />
Asbell uses nutritional yeast to tap into umami,<br />
too, and cooks with smoke—because “it just<br />
reminds people of meat.”<br />
5. REPLACE THE REPLACEABLE.<br />
Meals are usually more complicated than just the<br />
meat on the plate. With something like a burger or<br />
lasagna, plenty of other flavors vie for attention,<br />
from sauces and condiments to veggies and noodles.<br />
“Make a curry, or make a chili,” Asbell says.<br />
“There are all kinds of really tasty recipes where<br />
[the lack of meat] is hardly even noticeable.”<br />
6. REMEMBER THE ANCILLARY BENEFITS.<br />
“A lot of times, we get the complaint that eating<br />
healthy costs too much,” Frie says. The animal<br />
protein is often the most expensive thing on your<br />
plate. You can buy fruits and vegetables seasonally<br />
and in bulk, along with whole grains and beans.<br />
Working with vegetables and other substitutes can<br />
cut down on cooking time, too.<br />
7. KNOW THAT MEATLESS DOES NOT<br />
NECESSARILY MEAN HEALTHY.<br />
Dietary guidelines of variety and portion control still<br />
hold. “Even with something like nuts or nut butters,<br />
that are very healthy items, in too large of quantities,<br />
too much of a good thing isn’t always a good<br />
thing,” Frie says. While building a balanced plate,<br />
vegans and vegetarians might consciously incorporate<br />
foods rich in iron (like spinach, lentils and<br />
brown rice) and vitamin B12 (like eggs, yogurt and<br />
fortified cereals) typically found in animal proteins.<br />
8. DROP PRECONCEPTIONS.<br />
“It’s very hard to get over this idea people have<br />
that you structure your meals around meat,” Asbell<br />
says. “But if you’ve ever had a peanut butter and<br />
jelly sandwich, you’re eating a vegan meal. There<br />
are all kinds of food you probably like already.” <br />
Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before<br />
making any major dietary changes.<br />
Beefy Beet<br />
Burgers<br />
MAKES 5 BURGERS<br />
The beet helps us get as<br />
close as we can get to the<br />
bloody beef you crave,<br />
and with a mix of potatoes<br />
and seasonings, it<br />
can deliver a tasty burger.<br />
Don’t overmix; you want<br />
to have some granularity<br />
left in the potato pulp<br />
and beet shreds to give<br />
it a burger-y feel.<br />
canola oil for greasing<br />
1 large (10-ounce) baking potato<br />
½ pound raw beets<br />
1 ½ cups raw walnuts<br />
¼ cup vital wheat gluten<br />
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast<br />
¼ teaspoon agar powder<br />
1 teaspoon smoked salt<br />
1 tablespoon refined coconut<br />
oil, melted<br />
1 tablespoon tamari soy sauce<br />
½ teaspoon Kitchen Bouquet<br />
1. Set up a steamer over a pot of water and bring to a simmer. Preheat the<br />
oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, lightly grease it<br />
with the canola oil, and set aside.<br />
2. Place the potato in the steamer and steam for 10 minutes, until tender<br />
when pierced with a paring knife. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.<br />
3. Place a pot of water over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Add<br />
the beets and boil for 10 minutes, until tender when pierced with a paring<br />
knife. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.<br />
4. Peel off and discard the beet skin. Put the shredding blade in the food<br />
processor and put the lid on, then drop the potato and beets through the<br />
feed tube to shred them. Scrape the shreds into a large bowl.<br />
5. Place the walnuts in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the “S” blade<br />
and pulse until they are minced to the size of cooked ground beef crumbles.<br />
Scrape them into the bowl containing the potato and beet mixture.<br />
6. In a cup, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, nutritional yeast, agar<br />
and smoked salt. Sprinkle the mixture over the bowl containing the<br />
potato mixture.<br />
7. In a second cup, stir together the coconut oil, tamari and Kitchen Bouquet<br />
and pour it over the potato mixture. Using your hands, toss the mixture<br />
together, trying not to mash the potatoes too much.<br />
8. Using a ½-cup measure, form the dough into five patties. Place the<br />
patties on the pan and flatten them to a ¾-inch thickness. Spritz or brush<br />
them with more of the canola oil. Bake for 30 minutes, turning the burgers<br />
once halfway through the cooking time, or until they look toasted and are<br />
firm to the touch. Remove from the oven. Serve hot.<br />
PHOTO AND RECIPE FROM “PLANT-BASED MEATS” BY ROBIN ASBELL<br />
COURTESY OF THE COUNTRYMAN PRESS, A DIVISION OF W.W. NORTON.<br />
PHOTO BY DAVID PAUL SCHMIT<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 19
20 real food summer <strong>2019</strong><br />
PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
TERRY BRENNAN<br />
FOOD STYLING<br />
LARA MIKLASEVICS
Take the Party<br />
Outdoors<br />
An easy menu of sunny flavors with hints of spice<br />
makes for a summer party hosts and guests alike can enjoy<br />
BY ROBIN ASBELL<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 21
Dining on the deck or patio is one of the great joys in life. There is just something about fresh air and sunshine<br />
that seems to make the food taste better. And some of the best gatherings are those when you can prep the<br />
food ahead of time and serve it with a minimum amount of effort so you can enjoy your party, too.<br />
This easy menu gathers flavors from warm, sunny cuisines. The lighter, leaner sauces and hints of spice are meant<br />
to be enjoyed in the sunshine and won’t slow you down if you are on the move. All these dishes are served buffet style,<br />
allowing your guests to fill their plates with whatever appeals to them the most. For pairing drinks, the flavors in this<br />
menu go well with iced tea or beer. To top it off, a crowd-pleasing sheet cake makes the most of the season’s fresh<br />
berries while offering up the sweet ending we all crave after a great meal.<br />
Watermelon Salad<br />
with Mint<br />
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS<br />
This refreshing salad is so juicy and zingy it’s<br />
sure to disappear quickly. Sweet watermelon<br />
plays well with tomatoes and cucumbers, and a<br />
hit of peppery mint accents the flavors. A simple<br />
lemon and olive oil dressing is all you need to<br />
bring it all together.<br />
4 cups cubed watermelon<br />
2 medium tomatoes, cubed<br />
1 medium cucumber, seeded<br />
and chopped<br />
2 scallions, chopped<br />
1/2 cup fresh mint, slivered<br />
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice<br />
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil<br />
1/4 teaspoon salt<br />
1. In a large bowl, place the watermelon, tomatoes,<br />
cucumber, scallions and mint.<br />
2. In a cup, stir the lemon juice, olive oil and<br />
salt. Drizzle over the watermelon mixture and<br />
toss to coat. Serve immediately.<br />
Hawaiian Chicken in Lettuce Leaves<br />
MAKES 6 SERVINGS<br />
If your family loves tacos, they will love this tangy sweet Hawaiian chicken in<br />
a lettuce leaf wrap. This is perfect for parties, it comes together in a snap, and<br />
you can let your guests spoon the tasty filling into individual leaves and add hot<br />
sauce to taste. The dish is fresh and light—perfect for a hot day.<br />
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped<br />
4 cloves garlic, minced<br />
2 tablespoons soy sauce<br />
2 tablespoons honey<br />
2 tablespoons lime juice<br />
1 tablespoon canola or avocado oil<br />
1 pound ground chicken<br />
1 large jalapeño, seeded and chopped<br />
1 cup finely chopped fresh pineapple<br />
1/2 cup roasted cashews<br />
2 heads butter lettuce, separated into leaves<br />
Sriracha Sauce, for serving (optional)<br />
1. Chop the ginger and garlic and reserve.<br />
2. In a cup, combine the soy sauce, honey and lime juice and reserve.<br />
3. In a large skillet, heat the canola or avocado oil over medium-high heat. Add<br />
the ginger and garlic and sizzle for a few seconds, stirring. Add the chicken and<br />
stir, chopping the meat as it cooks. Reduce to medium and stir and turn until<br />
the chicken is mostly cooked; it will look white and browned in spots. Add the<br />
soy sauce mixture and stir. It will sizzle and be absorbed quickly. Stir in the<br />
jalapeño and pineapple and cook just until the pineapple is slightly softened,<br />
about 1 minute. Scrape the mixture into a bowl.<br />
4. Sprinkle the cashews over the chicken and serve with lettuce leaves. Portion<br />
about ¼ to 1/2 cup into each leaf, depending on the size of the leaf. Drizzle with<br />
Sriracha, if desired, and eat immediately.<br />
22 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
WATERMELON SALAD WITH<br />
MINT AND HAWAIIAN CHICKEN<br />
IN LETTUCE LEAVES
Asian Rotini and Scallop Salad<br />
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS<br />
Asian noodle salads are always popular, and making one with curly rotini only adds<br />
appeal. In this veggie-packed dish, carrots, peppers, cucumbers and radishes provide<br />
a rainbow of color and crunch. It’s elevated to elegant main course status by placing<br />
seared sea scallops on top. If you prefer, you can substitute shrimp.<br />
For the Dressing<br />
2 tablespoons sesame oil<br />
1/4 cup rice vinegar<br />
2 tablespoons honey<br />
1/4 cup tamari soy sauce<br />
1 clove garlic, pressed<br />
1 tablespoon fresh ginger,<br />
chopped<br />
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes<br />
1/2 pound rainbow rotini<br />
1 cup shredded carrot<br />
1 red bell pepper, slivered<br />
1/2 large cucumber<br />
4 large red radishes, sliced<br />
1/2 cup fresh basil<br />
1 pound sea scallops, thawed if frozen<br />
1/2 teaspoon paprika<br />
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt<br />
2 tablespoons canola or avocado oil<br />
1. Put on a pot of water to cook the rotini.<br />
2. For the dressing, in a cup, combine the sesame oil, rice vinegar, honey, tamari soy<br />
sauce, garlic, ginger and red pepper flakes and whisk to combine. Reserve.<br />
3. Cook the rotini according to package directions, about 9 minutes. Drain and rinse<br />
with cold water. Place in a large bowl and add the carrot, bell pepper, cucumber,<br />
radishes and basil and toss to mix, drizzle with dressing and toss to coat. Refrigerate<br />
until serving.<br />
4. For the scallops, drain any liquid from the scallops and pat dry. Remove the connective<br />
piece from the edge of each scallop, if present. Sprinkle the scallop tops<br />
with half of the paprika and salt.<br />
5. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and let it heat for a minute. Drizzle<br />
in the oil and tilt the pan to coat the bottom. Place the scallops in the pan and sear<br />
2 to 3 minutes undisturbed, until the edges look browned and start to crack. Sprinkle<br />
the tops of the scallops with remaining paprika and salt. Turn over the scallops, and<br />
cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until firm when pressed with a fingertip. Transfer to a plate<br />
and cover loosely with a pot lid to keep warm.<br />
6. Serve the rotini in a wide bowl or platter, topped with seared scallops. Drizzle the<br />
juice from the pan over the salad and serve.<br />
EASY CHOPPED SALAD BAR<br />
A big platter of chopped salad is a great way to let your guests pick their<br />
favorite salad ingredients, and it looks beautiful and colorful. Simply select<br />
a big platter and spread chopped romaine across it in an even layer.<br />
Chop your favorite ingredients to arrange in rows across the lettuce:<br />
Proteins: Cubed cheeses such as<br />
Cheddar, Swiss or Havarti; cubed<br />
salami, ham, chicken or crisp<br />
crumbled bacon; or bleu cheese,<br />
walnuts or sunflower seeds<br />
Fruits: Chopped apple, berries,<br />
sliced peaches or mango<br />
Veggies: Chopped red peppers,<br />
shredded carrots, cubed cucumbers,<br />
cubed zucchini, chopped red onion<br />
or scallion, cherry tomatoes<br />
Set out a bottle of balsamic<br />
vinaigrette for each guest to drizzle<br />
over their salad just before serving.<br />
24 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
ASIAN ROTINI AND<br />
SCALLOP SALAD<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 25
JERKED PORK IN<br />
THE SLOW COOKER<br />
26 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Jerked Pork in the Slow Cooker<br />
MAKES 12 SERVINGS<br />
Jerk is a classic seasoning from the island of Jamaica, where meats are marinated and then<br />
slow smoked over pimento wood. For this easy version, you can keep the kitchen cool since<br />
it is made in the slow cooker. It’s so easy to slow braise the meat overnight and finish the dish<br />
in the morning so it’s ready to reheat in time for the party. This recipe can be as hot as you<br />
like. If you go with the Scotch bonnet chile it will be Jamaican hot, but if you want to tone it<br />
down, a couple of jalapeños will give it a milder kick. Serve in buns or over cooked rice for a<br />
spicy, savory meal.<br />
1 small Scotch bonnet or habanero chile,<br />
or 2 jalapeños<br />
1/2 cup chopped yellow onion<br />
1 tablespoon fresh ginger<br />
2 large scallions, chopped<br />
1 tablespoon fresh thyme<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper<br />
2 teaspoons ground allspice<br />
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, grated<br />
1/4 cup rice vinegar<br />
2 tablespoons soy sauce<br />
31/4 pounds pork roast, unseasoned<br />
1 small red bell pepper, chopped<br />
1 small onion, chopped<br />
12 hamburger buns, or cooked white<br />
rice (cook 3 cups long grain rice<br />
for 10 to 12 servings)<br />
1. In a blender, combine the chile, onion, ginger, scallions, thyme, salt, pepper, allspice, nutmeg,<br />
rice vinegar and soy sauce. Place the lid on the blender and blend, increasing to high speed<br />
to make a smooth puree. Scrape out into a slow cooker.<br />
2. Trim the pork roast to remove excess fat, then cut 4- to 5-inch deep slashes on opposite<br />
sides of the roast to allow the sauce to penetrate. Place the roast in the slow cooker and turn<br />
to coat with sauce, massage the puree into the slashes and make sure it covers the meat.<br />
Cover the slow cooker and cook on low for 8 hours.<br />
3. At 8 hours, transfer the roast to a large bowl and test by sticking a fork into the meat to<br />
see if you can pull it into shreds. It should be tender enough to tear easily. If not, place back<br />
in the cooker for another half hour.<br />
4. When the pork is tender, place it into the bowl and let it sit until cool enough to handle.<br />
Use two forks to shred the meat.<br />
5. Pour the liquids from the cooker into a 2-quart pot and place it on the stove. Bring to a<br />
boil over high heat, then reduce to keep a strong simmer, at about medium high. Cook for<br />
10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquids are reduced by half and appear thicker.<br />
Add the chopped pepper and onion and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cover for<br />
about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.<br />
6. Pour the vegetable mixture over the cooled, shredded pork. At this point, it can be refrigerated,<br />
tightly covered, for up to 4 days, or frozen for 2 months. To reheat, you can use the<br />
slow cooker for serving—just heat the meat on low for about an hour. Switch to keep warm<br />
as soon as it is hot. You can also reheat the meat in a pan on the stove, stirring over low heat<br />
until hot. Serve a heaping half cup or so in each bun, or over cooked white rice.<br />
Cook’s Note: If you think the slow cooker is only for wintry stews and heavy braises, think<br />
again. The slow cooker is just as adept at cooking for a crowd in the hot months. Instead of<br />
turning on an oven or watching a grill for hours on end, you can make pulled pork and other<br />
slow roasted meats without heating up the kitchen. Your slow cooker will ensure that the<br />
meat stays moist and that it becomes meltingly tender while you ignore it completely. This<br />
Jerk Pork is a great example, and you can do the same thing using barbecue spices and a<br />
dash of bottle barbecue sauce.<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 27
Lemon Blueberry Sheet Cake<br />
MAKES 12 TO 16 SERVINGS<br />
Feed a crowd with a tender, beautiful cake that’s studded with juicy<br />
blueberries and a hint of lemon. The cloud of cream cheese frosting<br />
is gorgeous as is, or you can opt to arrange more berries on top.<br />
If you’re feeling patriotic, go with red raspberries and blueberries<br />
atop the white frosting to make a flag.<br />
3 cups unbleached flour<br />
1/2 teaspoon salt<br />
1/2 teaspoon baking powder<br />
1/2 teaspoon baking soda<br />
11/2 sticks butter<br />
2 cups sugar<br />
1/3 cup lemon juice<br />
2 teaspoons lemon zest<br />
4 large eggs<br />
1 cup buttermilk<br />
2 cups blueberries<br />
For the Frosting<br />
1 stick butter, at room temperature<br />
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature<br />
4 cups powdered sugar<br />
1/4 teaspoon salt<br />
2 teaspoons lemon juice<br />
berries for decoration, if desired<br />
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and grease and flour a 9x13-inch<br />
metal baking pan.<br />
2. Into a medium bowl, sift the flour, salt, baking powder and<br />
baking soda. In a stand mixer, beat the butter until fluffy, then<br />
gradually beat in the sugar. Beat in the eggs one at a time, scraping<br />
down as needed. Beat in lemon juice and zest.<br />
3. On low speed, mix in about a third of the dry mixture just until<br />
mixed, then mix in half of the buttermilk and continue alternating<br />
until a smooth batter is formed. However, don’t overmix: Scrape<br />
the bowl and mix just to combine. Fold in the berries and spread<br />
in the pan.<br />
4. Bake for about 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the<br />
center of the pan comes out with no wet batter attached. Cool<br />
completely on a rack.<br />
5. For the frosting, let the butter and cream cheese soften to room<br />
temperature. Place both in the stand mixer or a large bowl with<br />
an electric mixer, and beat the mixture until creamy, scraping down<br />
sides of the bowl to make sure all the cream cheese is incorporated.<br />
Add the powdered sugar and salt and beat until smooth. Add lemon<br />
juice and beat to mix. Spread the frosting over the cooled cake.<br />
If desired, arrange berries on top. <br />
LEMON BLUEBERRY<br />
SHEET CAKE<br />
28 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
NUTRITION<br />
WATERMELON SALAD<br />
W. MINT<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 154 (99<br />
from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 2g); CHOL<br />
0mg; SODIUM 125mg; CARB 14g;<br />
FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 2g<br />
HAWAIIAN CHICKEN<br />
IN LETTUCE LEAVES:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 210 (101<br />
from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 2g); CHOL<br />
43mg; SODIUM 328mg; CARB 16g;<br />
FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 13g<br />
ASIAN ROTINI<br />
& SCALLOP SALAD:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 408 (112<br />
from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 2g); CHOL<br />
19mg; SODIUM 1319mg; CARB 55g;<br />
FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 19g<br />
JERKED PORK<br />
IN THE SLOW COOKER:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 338 (102<br />
from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 4g); CHOL<br />
77mg; SODIUM 604mg; CARB 25g;<br />
FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 32g<br />
LEMON BLUEBERRY<br />
SHEET CAKE:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 674 (211<br />
from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 14g); CHOL<br />
114mg; SODIUM 423mg; CARB 112g;<br />
FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 7g<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 29
30 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Five Fresh<br />
<strong>Summer</strong><br />
Herbs<br />
Add kick to your recipes with fresh basil,<br />
cilantro, dill, mint and rosemary<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN<br />
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS<br />
BY PAT CROCKER<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 31
Nothing enhances the taste and plate appeal of summer dishes like the flavor spike of tongue-tingling<br />
fresh herbs. Not sure what herb would be best for that easy summer salad? Want something to kick up<br />
the taste of grilled chicken? We’ve got your back with five of our favorite summer herbs.<br />
In all but the Mediterranean Herb Paste, which is a combination of herbs from that sunny region, the recipes<br />
that follow give you a clean herb hit so that you can truly know the unique experience of each herb. You’ll taste<br />
how dill enhances smoked salmon and what happens to salsa when it is ratcheted up by cilantro.<br />
So grab a bunch, try our herb-hip recipes, and start what could become a life-long passion for the humble,<br />
nutrient-packed plants we call herbs. And since you have a bunch of herbs for the recipes, and perhaps leftover<br />
herbs, we also share more delicious ways to add each of them to your menus.<br />
Minted Tabbouleh with Grilled Beef<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
Mint is refreshingly clean tasting with notes of menthol and hints of lemon. Some mints<br />
like spearmint are sweet and mildly menthol, while others such as peppermint are sharply<br />
menthol with hot, spicy and sweet overtones. Mint is versatile—use it in desserts, salads,<br />
with red meats, and in apple cider vinegar as a condiment for lamb.<br />
Peppermint eases pain and acts as an antiseptic, a digestive aid, and as a stimulant.<br />
Use it in teas to alleviate nausea, indigestion, gas, colic, sore throat, fever and migraine<br />
headaches. Note: Peppermint isn’t for babies and children due to the strong flavor and<br />
digestive action.<br />
For the Minted Tabbouleh<br />
1 pound boneless top sirloin steak<br />
½ cup bulgur<br />
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, grind of coarse sea salt, to taste<br />
divided<br />
4 to 6 sprigs fresh mint for garnish<br />
1 cup boiling water<br />
1½ cups chopped fresh parsley<br />
1 cup chopped fresh mint<br />
2 tomatoes, cut into ½-inch dice<br />
½ cucumber, shredded<br />
½ teaspoon sea salt<br />
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice<br />
1. For the tabbouleh, combine bulgur and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a bowl. Pour boiling<br />
water over, cover, and set aside for 15 minutes. Drain using a fine-mesh sieve and<br />
transfer to a serving bowl. Add remaining oil, parsley, mint, tomatoes and cucumber<br />
and mix well. Sprinkle salt and lemon juice over and stir to combine and set aside or<br />
cover and refrigerate overnight.<br />
2. Meanwhile for the beef, heat a grill pan or cast iron skillet over medium-high heat<br />
until hot. Drizzle 1 tablespoon oil over steak and grind salt over. Place steak, oil side<br />
down, in the pan. Sear for about 2 minutes or until browned. Oil and salt the top of<br />
the steak, then flip and cook for about 2 minutes or until the underside is browned.<br />
Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes or until cool enough to handle.<br />
Slice steak crosswise into ½-inch slices.<br />
3. Spoon tabbouleh onto a large platter or individual plates and top<br />
with grilled beef slices. Garnish with fresh mint sprigs.<br />
Cooks Note: For a light starter, side dish or appetizer, serve tabbouleh<br />
with toasted pita cut into wedges.<br />
MORE WITH MINT<br />
— Stir 1 tablespoon of fresh chopped<br />
peppermint into homemade<br />
chocolate or lemon pudding at<br />
the end of cooking.<br />
— Make a Mint Julep by crushing<br />
1 spearmint sprig with 1 tablespoon<br />
sugar in the bottom of a tall glass.<br />
Add shaved ice, 1 ounce bourbon<br />
and water to taste.<br />
— Combine ½ cup chopped fresh mint<br />
with enough apple cider vinegar to<br />
make a sauce to spoon over lamb<br />
(remember, mint helps with digestion).<br />
Add 1 teaspoon sugar if desired.<br />
— Rub 4 fresh mint sprigs between your<br />
palms to bruise them and release<br />
essential oils. Stuff them into a mug<br />
and pour boiling water over. Let steep<br />
to your desired strength.<br />
— Strip the leaves from a sprig of<br />
spearmint and add to the blender<br />
for a smoothie.<br />
— Cooked new potatoes and peas are<br />
deliciously brightened when tossed<br />
with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh<br />
mint and a pat of butter.<br />
32 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
MINTED TABBOULEH<br />
WITH GRILLED BEEF
Dill Cream Sauce<br />
with Smoked Salmon<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
Fresh dill has a clean, fragrant aroma of licorice and lemon<br />
that holds memories of Scandinavian gravlax and open-faced<br />
sandwiches. In fact, we’ve used it in yogurt as the perfect accompaniment<br />
for our smoked salmon appetizers, and you can pair it<br />
with poached or grilled fresh salmon fillets instead of smoked fish.<br />
Dill is antimicrobial and a good source of calcium, iron and magnesium.<br />
The seeds are a digestive, helping to treat heartburn, colic and gas.<br />
For the Dill Cream Sauce<br />
½ cup Greek-style plain yogurt<br />
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill<br />
1 tablespoon drained capers<br />
1 green onion, finely chopped<br />
8 ounces smoked salmon, skin<br />
removed and meat flaked<br />
4 thin slices dark rye<br />
or pumpernickel bread<br />
16 fresh dill tips for garnish<br />
1. For the dill cream sauce, combine yogurt, dill, capers and<br />
onion in a bowl and stir to mix well.<br />
2. For the appetizers, spread each slice of bread with 2 tablespoons<br />
of dill cream sauce. Divide the salmon into 4 equal<br />
portions and pile each portion onto a slice of bread. Cut slices<br />
into 4 pieces and garnish each square with a tip of dill to serve.<br />
Cook’s Notes:<br />
• Greek-style yogurt is thick and creamy, but you can use regular plain yogurt.<br />
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl and spoon about 1 cup of plain yogurt<br />
into it. Set the bowl and strainer in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. The longer<br />
you strain the yogurt, the thicker it will become. Don’t throw out that drained<br />
liquid. Use it in soups or add it to your morning smoothie.<br />
• For grilled salmon, double the Dill Cream Sauce recipe to make 1 cup and either<br />
serve sauce over each of 4 salmon servings or pass separately at the table.<br />
For an added burst of flavor, prior to grilling, drizzle juice from half of a lemon<br />
over fillet and rub with a mixture of 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil with<br />
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill.<br />
MORE WITH DILL<br />
— Dill and dairy products were made for each other. Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh<br />
dill to ½ cup cream cheese and use in place of mayonnaise as a sandwich spread.<br />
— Make herbed butter using 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill whisked into<br />
1 cup soft butter. Serve with cooked vegetables or top a grilled steak with a pat.<br />
— Toss 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill with perfectly cooked carrots<br />
or fresh summer peas.<br />
— Dill makes fish and seafood sing, so make the dill cream sauce<br />
whenever you enjoy the bounty from the sea.<br />
— Chop fresh dill into borscht or stir into sour cream and use a dollop<br />
with any summer soup.<br />
— Add 1 or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill to add zip to cooked<br />
rice, lentils or beans (remember it’s a digestive, so it helps<br />
with lentils and beans).<br />
34 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Basil and Pistachio Pesto with Heritage<br />
Tomatoes and Baby Mozzarella<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
With its spicy fragrance and sweet flavor that ranges from sublime lemon and nutmeg to<br />
bold licorice, cinnamon and allspice, tender basil could be the poster child for fresh summer<br />
dishes. Look for bright, shiny leaves that are dry and whole. See our storage tips on page 39.<br />
Eating basil helps digestion by reducing gas and stomach cramps, but you can benefit<br />
from the herb other ways, too. Try adding a few drops of basil essential oil to bathwater to<br />
help ease nervous exhaustion, mental fatigue or uneasiness.<br />
For the Pesto (Makes 1 cup)<br />
3 large cloves garlic<br />
½ cup shelled pistachio nuts<br />
2 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves<br />
¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese<br />
¾ cup olive oil<br />
½ teaspoon sea salt, or to taste<br />
2 ripe heritage tomatoes, cored and<br />
each cut into 4 slices<br />
8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese,<br />
cut into 8 slices<br />
extra virgin olive oil<br />
balsamic vinegar<br />
1. For the pesto, chop garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Add<br />
nuts and process for 30 seconds. Add basil and cheese to the bowl<br />
and process 10 seconds. With the motor running, slowly pour in<br />
the oil through the opening in the lid. Stop and scrape the bowl<br />
before adding all of the oil. Sprinkle salt over and continue adding<br />
oil just until reaching the desired consistency of the pesto. The<br />
more oil you add, the thinner the pesto will be.<br />
2. For the tomatoes, spread 2 tablespoons pesto over tomato<br />
slices and top each with a slice of cheese. Arrange on a serving<br />
platter and drizzle with oil and vinegar.<br />
Cook’s Note: If you have a high-speed blender, you can use it to<br />
make pesto; however, you may need to stop and scrape the sides<br />
of the jug and clear the underside of the blades often.<br />
MORE WITH BASIL<br />
— Add chopped basil to egg or chicken salad or other<br />
sandwich fillings.<br />
— Tear basil into bite-sized pieces and add to green<br />
summer salads.<br />
— Float a whole basil leaf on cold gazpacho soup or<br />
tuck one into a lunch wrap.<br />
— Lightly oil chicken pieces or fish fillets and cover<br />
with whole basil leaves before roasting.<br />
— Add a ½ cup of fresh, chopped basil to homemade<br />
or canned tomato sauce for authentic Italian flavor.<br />
— Add a 1/4 cup of fresh, finely chopped basil to<br />
homemade or store-bought salad dressings.<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 35
Mediterranean Herb Paste with Grilled Chicken<br />
and <strong>Summer</strong> Vegetable Kebabs<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
Rosemary is the key herb in this adaptable herb paste that also features other herbs from the<br />
Mediterranean. Its Latin name, Rosmarinus translates to “dew of the sea,” an apt term for this<br />
heat- and sun-loving herb. Rosemary is pungent and spicy, with hints of nutmeg, pine and<br />
camphor, so start sparingly and add more gradually as you gauge how much is enough for you.<br />
Science has proved rosemary to be a powerful antioxidant, which may protect us from<br />
toxins around us.<br />
For the Mediterranean Paste<br />
¼ cup chopped fresh rosemary<br />
¼ cup chopped fresh sage<br />
10 cloves garlic<br />
½ cup fresh thyme leaves<br />
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard<br />
1 tablespoon sea salt<br />
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar<br />
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil<br />
3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken<br />
breasts, cut into 1½-inch cubes<br />
1 onion, cut into quarters<br />
1 red pepper, cut in half, each half<br />
quartered<br />
1 medium zucchini, cut into 8 chunks<br />
8 long, metal skewers, lightly oiled<br />
extra virgin olive oil<br />
1. For the Mediterranean paste, combine rosemary, sage and garlic in a food processor.<br />
Pulse for 30 seconds or until garlic is coarsely chopped. Add thyme, mustard, salt and<br />
vinegar. With the motor running, slowly add enough oil through the opening in the lid until<br />
a soft, paste-like consistency is achieved.<br />
2. For the kebabs: Heat one side of a gas or charcoal grill to produce a medium-hot fire.<br />
Divide the chicken cubes into 4 portions and thread each portion onto a skewer. Rub paste<br />
over chicken cubes. Thread vegetables onto remaining skewers in this order for each skewer:<br />
red pepper, onion, zucchini, red pepper, zucchini. Drizzle each with oil.<br />
3. Place chicken skewers on the heat. Cover the grill and sear for 1 to 2 minutes or until<br />
browned. Flip the skewer and sear the opposite side for 1 to 2 minutes, or until browned.<br />
Add vegetables to the heat and grill for 1 to 2 minutes. Move chicken and vegetable kebabs<br />
to the unlit side of the grill. Cover and cook for about 15 to 25 minutes or until chicken juices<br />
run clear when pierced with the point of a knife. Note: Vegetables may be cooked before<br />
chicken, so remove them as soon as they are done.<br />
4. In the meantime, scrape remaining Mediterranean paste into a large bowl. Remove<br />
cooked vegetables from skewers by running a knife along the skewer, letting vegetables<br />
drop into the bowl. Remove chicken from skewers into the bowl and toss to coat well. Serve<br />
over greens or cooked rice.<br />
Cook’s Notes:<br />
• Like the pesto, this paste can be made with a high-speed blender, but you may need to<br />
stop and scrape the sides of the jug and clear the underside of the blades often.<br />
• You can keep the kebabs intact instead of removing to a bowl. Serve kebabs over greens<br />
or cooked rice and pass the Mediterranean Paste separately.<br />
• This paste goes well with any form of lamb—shanks, chops, roasted leg. Rub it over the<br />
meat before cooking, and pass the remaining paste separately at the table.<br />
MORE WITH ROSEMARY<br />
— Save sturdy rosemary stems<br />
that have been stripped of<br />
their leaves and try threading<br />
peach or plum halves on them.<br />
Broil in the oven or grill on<br />
the barbecue.<br />
— Add chopped, fresh rosemary<br />
to canned tomato sauce.<br />
— Stir 1 tablespoon chopped<br />
fresh rosemary into potatoes<br />
and other root vegetables<br />
before roasting.<br />
— Combine 1 tablespoon chopped<br />
fresh rosemary with ¼ cup liquid<br />
honey and brush over chicken<br />
or fish, or toss with vegetables<br />
for the barbecue.<br />
— Use fresh rosemary sprigs in<br />
marinades for lamb, chicken<br />
or beef.<br />
— For a smoky, subtle flavor, try<br />
lining the grill with dampened<br />
rosemary sprigs before<br />
grilling chicken.<br />
— Adding 1 tablespoon of finely<br />
chopped fresh rosemary to the<br />
ingredients gives a pleasantly<br />
peppery taste to shortbread<br />
or butter cookies.<br />
GETTING TO KNOW HERBS One of the best ways to really get to know and experience individual herbs is to explore<br />
them through your senses. Look closely at the glossy, puckered, apple-green leaves of basil–how are they different<br />
from dill leaves? Run your fingers over the spiky, needle-like leaves of rosemary and breathe in its camphor fragrance<br />
with hints of citrus, pine and nutmeg. Nip off the end of a mint leaf and let it sit on the end of your tongue before biting<br />
into it to determine if it is hot and spicy or bursting with a cool, refreshing menthol flavor. Do the same with cilantro–<br />
would you substitute it for mint in the Tabbouleh recipe?<br />
36 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
MEDITERRANEAN HERB PASTE<br />
WITH GRILLED CHICKEN AND<br />
SUMMER VEGETABLE KEBABS<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 37
THAI NUT SALSA<br />
WITH PASTA BOWTIES<br />
38 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Thai Nut Salsa with Pasta Bowties<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
Fresh, green cilantro leaves really sparkle in this easy summer pasta. This recipe makes<br />
a generous amount of salsa—more than you’ll need for the pasta. Store remaining salsa<br />
in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days (you may need to strain it<br />
after storing) and serve as a casual appetizer dip with corn tortillas or piled on a round<br />
of creamy-soft brie.<br />
As are most fresh, green herbs, cilantro is rich in antioxidants, and it’s a good source<br />
of potassium, calcium, manganese, iron and magnesium. Amazingly high in folic acid<br />
and vitamins A and C, cilantro is also one of the best herb sources of vitamin K. Tummy<br />
upset? Try chewing a fistful of fresh cilantro leaves for relief.<br />
8 ounces farfalle pasta<br />
For the Thai Nut Salsa (Makes 3 cups)<br />
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />
1 onion, finely chopped<br />
1 clove garlic, minced<br />
1 tablespoon curry powder<br />
1 can (15 ounces) full-fat coconut milk<br />
1 cup natural peanut, almond or cashew butter<br />
¼ cup honey or brown rice syrup<br />
juice of 1 lime<br />
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro<br />
4 sprigs fresh cilantro for garnish<br />
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the farfalle according<br />
to package directions, about 12 minutes. Drain well, rinse with cool water and<br />
place in a large bowl.<br />
2. In the meantime, for the salsa, heat oil over medium heat in a saucepan. Sauté the<br />
onion for 5 minutes. Add garlic and curry and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes<br />
or until onions are soft and mixture is fragrant.<br />
3. Add coconut milk and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Add nut butter,<br />
honey and lime juice. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes or until incorporated<br />
and smooth. Stir in cilantro.<br />
4. Scrape 2 cups salsa over cooked farfalle, toss well and serve immediately. Garnish<br />
each plate with a sprig of cilantro<br />
Cook’s Notes: The flavors intensify if the dish is covered and chilled so you can<br />
make it the day before, refrigerate and remove a half hour before serving to bring<br />
to room temperature. <br />
MORE WITH CILANTRO<br />
— Intensify the flavor of store-bought salsa<br />
and dips by adding up to ½ cup chopped<br />
fresh cilantro.<br />
— Sprinkle coarsely chopped leaves<br />
over fresh summer soups and salads.<br />
— Chop and liberally sprinkle over<br />
burrito fillings and as a garnish after<br />
they’re cooked.<br />
— Take-home Thai or Chinese food can<br />
benefit from a generous splash of freshly<br />
chopped cilantro.<br />
— Add it to stir-fry dishes, Asian-style soups<br />
and curry dishes.<br />
— Try substituting 1 cup cilantro leaves and<br />
1 cup parsley in place of the basil leaves<br />
in the pesto recipe here.<br />
STORING FRESH HERBS<br />
Fresh herbs are sold in two ways.<br />
Often, popular herbs such as parsley,<br />
cilantro or dill are bunched and sold<br />
as produce without packaging. I like<br />
to swish them in cool water and store<br />
on the counter in a glass or vase with<br />
their stems in water (as you would cut<br />
flowers) and use within a few days.<br />
For longer storage, pat them dry and<br />
keep in an airtight container in the<br />
refrigerator. When you buy herbs in<br />
their own airtight container, simply<br />
keep them in the refrigerator, removing<br />
a few sprigs at a time for recipes.<br />
NUTRITION<br />
MINTED TABBOULEH<br />
W. GRILLED BEEF<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 369 (188<br />
from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 4g); CHOL<br />
63mg; SODIUM 442mg; CARB 20g;<br />
FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 28g<br />
DILL CREAM SAUCE<br />
W. SMOKED SALMON:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 157 (35<br />
from fat); FAT 4g (sat. 1g); CHOL<br />
15mg; SODIUM 596mg; CARB 14g;<br />
FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 16g<br />
BASIL & PISTACHIO PESTO<br />
W. TOMATOES & MOZZARELLA:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 692 (567<br />
from fat); FAT 65g (sat. 16g); CHOL<br />
44mg; SODIUM 780mg; CARB 12g;<br />
FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 22g<br />
HERB PASTE W. CHICKEN &<br />
SUMMER VEGETABLE KEBABS:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 625 (249<br />
from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 6g); CHOL<br />
211mg; SODIUM 2134mg; CARB 11g;<br />
FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 79g<br />
THAI NUT SALSA<br />
W. PASTA BOWTIES:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 764 (343<br />
from fat); FAT 41g (sat. 16g); CHOL<br />
0mg; SODIUM 400mg; CARB 87g;<br />
FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 20g<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 39
Produce<br />
Refreshed<br />
These vegetable recipes will elevate your<br />
summer meals, making them healthier and simpler<br />
RECIPES BY ABRA BERENS<br />
40 real food summer <strong>2019</strong><br />
MASSAGED KALE<br />
WITH TOMATOES,<br />
CREAMED MOZZARELLA<br />
AND WILD RICE
Adding vegetables to our diets should be approachable, purposeful and enjoyable, according to<br />
Abra Berens, author of “Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables.” After checking out some of<br />
her recipes, hopefully you will agree with her sentiments. Through the honest storytelling of her own life<br />
experiences and encounters with produce as a child, chef, farmer and Midwesterner, Berens shares an<br />
approach to vegetables that is simple, offering recipes that alter them just enough to freshen them up,<br />
whether by grilling, roasting or serving them raw. Her many variations and alternatives allow for creativity;<br />
plus, she’s honest about produce that she finds difficult or a few that just aren’t her favorite. By the time<br />
you place the delicious creations on the table for your guests, family and friends to enjoy, you’ll already<br />
be planning your next visit to the fresh produce aisles. —Katie Ballalatak<br />
Massaged Kale with Tomatoes, Creamed Mozzarella and Wild Rice<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
This recipe calls for wild rice but substitute any cooked grain—especially any random grains that are in the back of your fridge.<br />
If you do use wild rice, you don’t need to soak the grains overnight, but soaked rice will cook much more quickly and will<br />
“pop” when cooked, improving the texture, in my opinion. Unsoaked rice will take significantly longer than white rice to<br />
cook, so plan accordingly.<br />
glug olive oil (See Cook’s Note)<br />
1 small onion, cut into thin slices<br />
2 garlic cloves, minced<br />
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste<br />
¼ cup white wine<br />
1 cup wild rice, soaked overnight in 4 cups water<br />
4 cups kale, midribs stripped, well dried and cut into ¼-inch ribbons<br />
1 (8-ounce) ball fresh mozzarella<br />
¼ cup sour cream<br />
1 lemon, zest and juice<br />
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved<br />
1. Heat olive oil. Sweat the onion and garlic with the salt until translucent, about 5 minutes.<br />
Add the white wine and reduce by half. Add the wild rice and the soaking liquid and cook<br />
until tender, about 45 minutes.<br />
2. In a mixing bowl, sprinkle the kale with a pinch of salt. Massage the kale until it is dark<br />
green, limp and tender in mouthfeel.<br />
3. Tear the mozzarella into rough chunks. Combine with the sour cream, lemon zest and<br />
juice, a good pinch of salt, and a couple of grinds of black pepper.<br />
4. When the wild rice is cooked, drain any residual liquid and let cool.<br />
Cook’s Note: I use the term “glug” a good deal … a holdover from my grandmother’s<br />
recipes. A glug is the amount of liquid poured from a container before air is pulled in past<br />
the “seal” formed by the flowing liquid in the neck of the container, creating a glug sound.<br />
An average glug measure is about 2 tablespoons to ¼ cup. It doesn’t need to be exact—<br />
just splash some oil in a pan. If you need more, add it. I’ve yet to need less oil in my life.<br />
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM<br />
“RUFFAGE: A PRACTICAL GUIDE<br />
TO VEGETABLES” BY ABRA<br />
BERENS ©<strong>2019</strong> REPRINTED<br />
WITH PERMISSION OF<br />
CHRONICLE BOOKS.<br />
PHOTOS BY EE BERGER.<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 41
Charred Green Beans with Crispy Chickpeas and Curry Yogurt<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
This dish defines contrast—smoky grilled green beans, cool yogurt, spicy curry, crunchy chickpeas. I love it so much. Long beans and<br />
round chickpeas can be a bit unruly; feel free to cut the beans into smaller pieces or slightly smash the chickpeas before crisping if you<br />
like. Similarly, depending on the type of yogurt you’re using, it might be thick or thin. If it is thin, drizzle; if thick, plop. If you are not a<br />
curry fan, I also like this recipe with paprika or cumin instead.<br />
1 pound green beans, roughly chopped<br />
¼ cup neutral oil, plus more for cooking the beans<br />
pinch salt<br />
2 teaspoons curry powder<br />
¾ cup yogurt<br />
1 cup Crispy Chickpeas (See recipe right)<br />
½ cup cilantro, roughly chopped<br />
1. Toss the green beans with the neutral oil and a big pinch of<br />
salt and grill.<br />
2. Heat the ¼ cup oil over high heat and when hot, add the curry<br />
powder and let bloom.<br />
3. Stir the curry oil into the yogurt.<br />
4. Transfer the beans from the grill to a serving platter and drizzle<br />
with curry yogurt.<br />
5. Scatter with the Crispy Chickpeas and cilantro and serve.<br />
Cook’s Note: Add green beans to the list of things that can be<br />
chucked onto the grill throughout the summer. The goal is to char<br />
the green beans while keeping the structure of the beans intact.<br />
To keep the green beans from slipping annoyingly through the<br />
grates, place a roasting or cooking rack on the grill running perpendicular<br />
to the grill grates, forming a mesh fine enough to catch<br />
the beans. Dress the beans with as little oil as possible to keep the<br />
grill from flaming up and blackening the beans. You can always<br />
add more oil or dressing to the beans after they are cooked.<br />
In case of lack of grill or excess bad weather, remember that<br />
a broiler is effectively an upside-down grill and works well too.<br />
Crispy Chickpeas MAKES 1½ CUPS<br />
1. Heat the oven to 350°F to 425°F—the hotter the oven, the faster<br />
they’ll cook. Drain 1 (15-ounce) can of chickpeas and rinse well.<br />
2. Dress the chickpeas with ½ cup olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt and<br />
½ teaspoon chili flakes (optional).<br />
3. Spread on a foil-lined baking sheet in a single layer and bake<br />
until crispy and deep golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove<br />
from the oven and let cool, keeping in a single layer or they will<br />
steam and soften. Keep at room temperature until ready to use.<br />
If they get soft, re-crisp in the oven (a few minutes).<br />
CHARRED GREEN BEANS<br />
WITH CRISPY CHICKPEAS<br />
AND CURRY YOGURT<br />
42 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Grilled Corn on the Cob<br />
with Parmesan Butter<br />
MAKES 6 SERVINGS<br />
Chomping corn from the cob is one of summertime’s<br />
most tactile pleasures. Using regular<br />
table butter is just fine, but replacing it with a<br />
quick compound butter makes corn on the cob<br />
seem like more of a dinner party dish. Plus, the<br />
flavor of the three different fats together feels<br />
unexpected, as does the heat from the chili<br />
flakes and the cool of the parsley. The method<br />
for toasting the chili flakes is tried and true<br />
for me (an unabashed multitasker known for<br />
burning spices by forgetting them in the pan).<br />
½ cup neutral oil<br />
½ teaspoon chili flakes<br />
4 ounces butter, at room temperature<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
2 ounces Parmesan, grated<br />
¾ cup parsley, leaves only, chopped<br />
6 ears corn, shucked<br />
1. Heat the neutral oil in a frying pan until<br />
it begins to smoke. Add the chili flakes and<br />
remove from the heat. Let steep in the oil<br />
for 10 minutes.<br />
2. In a stand mixer or a bowl, combine the<br />
butter, salt, chili oil, Parmesan and parsley.<br />
Paddle until well combined. Taste and add<br />
salt as needed.<br />
3. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap or parchment<br />
on the counter and spoon on the butter in a<br />
strip. Gently roll into a round log, tightening<br />
with each pass and chill until firm (this butter<br />
can be frozen for later use).<br />
4. When you’re ready to grill, heat a grill at<br />
medium to high heat.<br />
5. Cut the butter into coins.<br />
6. Grill the corn until the kernels are golden<br />
brown and slightly charred. Top with the<br />
butter rounds and serve immediately.<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 43
44 real food summer <strong>2019</strong><br />
BROCCOLI SALAD WITH<br />
WARM BACON VINAIGRETTE,<br />
SUNFLOWER SEEDS<br />
AND DRIED CHERRIES
Broccoli Salad with<br />
Warm Bacon Vinaigrette,<br />
Sunflower Seeds<br />
and Dried Cherries<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
This is a version of a classic Midwestern summer<br />
buffet salad with a warm bacon dressing in place of the<br />
mayo. It can be made in advance, but always serve room<br />
temperature or the bacon fat will congeal a bit. If you<br />
prefer mayo or don’t eat bacon, substitute mayonnaise<br />
or vinaigrette for the bacon fat and extra olive oil.<br />
½ pound bacon, cut into ¼-inch strips<br />
1 (4-ounce) shallot or small red onion,<br />
cut into thin slices<br />
¼ cup apple cider vinegar<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<br />
2 tablespoons olive oil<br />
8 cups broccoli, shaved thinly or cut into florets,<br />
stalks peeled and cut into half-moons<br />
1 cup dried cherries, either sweet or sour<br />
½ cup sunflower seeds, toasted<br />
1. Place the bacon in a cold frying pan and then cook<br />
over medium heat until the bacon is crispy, rendering<br />
the bacon fat.<br />
2. In a bowl, combine the shallot, vinegar, salt and<br />
pepper and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes.<br />
3. Strain the bacon fat into the shallot-vinegar mixture,<br />
reserving the crispy pieces. Add the olive oil to the<br />
mixture and whisk to combine.<br />
4. Toss the broccoli, bacon bits, cherries and sunflower<br />
seeds with the bacon vinaigrette and a pinch of salt.<br />
Cook’s Note: Raw broccoli can be simply bite-size<br />
pieces of broccoli. I also like shaving the broccoli into<br />
thin, cross-section broccoli trees. To shave broccoli,<br />
simply cut the crown in half, place the cut-side<br />
down, and slice as thinly as possible. In the end, it<br />
doesn’t matter the shape of the broccoli as long as it<br />
is pleasant to chew.<br />
Sweet Pea Toasts<br />
MAKES 4 SERVINGS<br />
There are very few dishes that my family asks for over and over again.<br />
This pea dip is one of them. It stores in the refrigerator and freezes well.<br />
2 cups peas, preferably frozen<br />
¼ teaspoon chili flakes<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
½ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling<br />
1 lemon, zest and juice<br />
¼ cup cream<br />
5 sprigs mint, roughly chopped<br />
1 baguette or loaf of sourdough<br />
edible flowers (optional)<br />
1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Boil the peas until bright green,<br />
3 to 5 minutes.<br />
2. Drain completely and transfer to a food processor. Add the chili flakes,<br />
salt, olive oil, and lemon zest and juice and blend until mostly smooth.<br />
Add the cream and blend to combine. Fold in the mint.<br />
3. Slice and toast the bread, schmear with the pea purée, and garnish<br />
with a drizzle of olive oil and some edible flowers if you’re feeling fancy.<br />
Cook’s Note: As with most purées in this book, you can use day-old<br />
vegetables as a way to breathe new life into leftovers. It will be easier<br />
to blend and make a smoother purée if the peas are warm. Snap and<br />
snow peas will not blend well no matter what. <br />
NUTRITION<br />
KALE W. TOMATOES,<br />
MOZZARELLA & WILD RICE:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 409<br />
(172 from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 9g);<br />
SODIUM 211mg; CARB 45g; FIBER<br />
5g; PROTEIN 19g<br />
CHARRED GREEN BEANS:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 419<br />
(317 from fat); FAT 36g (sat. 4g);<br />
SODIUM 357mg; CARB 20g; FIBER<br />
6g; PROTEIN 7g<br />
GRILLED CORN W. BUTTER:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 435<br />
(330 from fat); FAT 38g (sat. 13g);<br />
SODIUM 454mg; CARB 23g; FIBER<br />
3g; PROTEIN 7g<br />
BROCCOLI SALAD:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 822<br />
(558 from fat); FAT 63g (sat. 20g);<br />
SODIUM 691mg; CARB 53g; FIBER<br />
9g; PROTEIN 16g<br />
SWEET PEA TOASTS:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 454<br />
(302 from fat); FAT 34g (sat. 6g);<br />
SODIUM 729mg; CARB 31g; FIBER<br />
4g; PROTEIN 8g<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 45
Korean<br />
Barbecue<br />
Fire up your grill with a fusion of flavors<br />
RECIPES BY XXXXXXX<br />
RECIPES BY BILL KIM<br />
HONEY SOY FLANK STEAK<br />
WITH SOY BALSAMIC SAUCE<br />
46 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
This grilling season, skip the same-old fare and “kung fu” your barbecue for a deliciously different taste.<br />
What does a Chinese martial arts term mean when it comes to Korean barbecue? According to award-<br />
winning Chicago restaurateur Bill Kim, who was born in Korea and raised in the American Midwest—and a fan of<br />
Bruce Lee movies—it’s all about adapting and perfecting your skills through hard work, creativity and patience.<br />
Kim, along with Chandra Ram, does a lot of the “kung fu” work for you in his book, “Korean BBQ,” and successfully<br />
shows that you don’t need to have a background in cooking traditional Korean food to create these recipes. Kim<br />
brings the two cultures together and translates the best of Korea’s mystifying sauces and rubs in an approachable<br />
way for home cooking. Kim’s wish is for people to have fun—we’re barbecuing here—so gather friends and family,<br />
hang out, have a good time and eat really delicious food. That’s what life is all about. —Mary Subialka<br />
Honey Soy Flank Steak<br />
MAKES 6 SERVINGS<br />
This is one amazing steak. It’s simple to prepare and<br />
you get maximum flavor in a short period of time.<br />
Flank steak is a lean cut, so be careful you don’t overcook<br />
it; medium-rare is ideal. Piercing the steak with<br />
a fork before marinating it is key to getting all of the<br />
rich, tangy, sweet flavors of the marinade throughout<br />
the meat.<br />
1 cup Soy Balsamic Sauce (See recipe right)<br />
⅓ cup vegetable oil<br />
¼ cup honey<br />
3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar<br />
1 tablespoon kosher salt<br />
2 teaspoons chili powder<br />
3 pounds flank steak<br />
1. Combine the Soy Balsamic Sauce, oil, honey, vinegar,<br />
salt and chili powder in a bowl and whisk until well<br />
mixed. Place the flank steak in a large, shallow dish<br />
and pierce it all over with a fork. Pour the marinade<br />
over the steak and turn the steak to coat evenly. Cover<br />
and marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.<br />
2. Heat the grill for direct heat cooking to medium<br />
(350° to 375°F).<br />
3. Place the steak on the grill grate and cook, turning it<br />
once, for 3 to 4 minutes on each side for medium-rare.<br />
You can cook it a minute or two longer if you prefer your<br />
steak cooked medium, but flank steak should not be<br />
cooked past medium or it will become chewy.<br />
4. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let rest<br />
for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak against the grain,<br />
arrange the slices on a serving platter, and serve.<br />
Soy Balsamic Sauce<br />
MAKES 1 CUP<br />
This recipe is very dear to my heart, as it was my first attempt to use<br />
ingredients that didn’t normally go together, but made sense to me.<br />
In Asian cooking, vinegar is often used to cut saltiness from soy sauce<br />
or other ingredients. For me, balsamic vinegar has the perfect mix of<br />
sweetness, acidity and body to combine with the brown sugar and soy<br />
sauce here.<br />
1 teaspoon cornstarch, or as needed<br />
2 tablespoons water<br />
¼ cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed<br />
½ cup balsamic vinegar<br />
½ cup soy sauce<br />
1. In a small bowl, stir together the cornstarch and water until the<br />
cornstarch dissolves and the mixture is the consistency of heavy<br />
cream, adding more cornstarch if the mixture is too thin.<br />
2. Combine the brown sugar, vinegar and soy sauce in a small saucepan<br />
and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the<br />
sugar. Stir the cornstarch mixture briefly to recombine, then stir it<br />
into the soy-vinegar mixture and simmer over low heat for about<br />
3 minutes, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.<br />
3. Remove from the heat, let cool completely, then refrigerate in an<br />
airtight container. This sauce will last for months without going bad.<br />
RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH<br />
PERMISSION FROM “KOREAN BBQ:<br />
MASTER YOUR GRILL IN SEVEN SAUCES,”<br />
COPYRIGHT ©2018 BY BILL KIM WITH<br />
CHANDRA RAM. PUBLISHED BY TEN SPEED<br />
PRESS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM<br />
HOUSE LLC. PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT<br />
©2018 BY JOHNNY AUTRY.<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 47
48 real food summer <strong>2019</strong><br />
SLOW-GRILLED<br />
KO-RICAN-STYLE<br />
BABY BACK RIBS
Slow-Grilled Ko-Rican-Style<br />
Baby Back Ribs<br />
MAKES 6 SERVINGS<br />
The key to cooking these ribs on the grill is to do it low and<br />
slow. That means over indirect heat so the ribs are next to, rather<br />
than directly over, the fire and the lid is closed. This method<br />
turns the grill into an outdoor oven, and the ribs don’t burn<br />
on the outside before turning soft and tender on the inside.<br />
I always want to grab one of these straight off the grill, but<br />
you’ll burn yourself on the hot bones if you don’t wait for a<br />
few minutes—trust me on that!<br />
1½ cups Ko-Rican Sauce (See recipe right)<br />
1½ cups Lemongrass Chili Sauce (See recipe right)<br />
2 tablespoons ground black pepper<br />
3 (3-pound) racks baby back pork ribs<br />
1. Combine the Ko-Rican Sauce, chili sauce and pepper in<br />
a large, shallow dish and mix well. Add the ribs and turn to<br />
coat evenly. Marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.<br />
2. Heat the grill for indirect heat cooking to medium-low<br />
(300°F to 325°F). (If using a charcoal grill, rake the coals to<br />
one side of the charcoal grate; if using a gas grill, turn off half<br />
of the burners.)<br />
3. While the grill is heating, lay a large sheet of heavy-duty<br />
aluminum foil on a work surface. Remove a rack of ribs from<br />
the marinade, place in the center of the foil, and then spoon<br />
some of the marinade onto the ribs. Bring the sides of the foil<br />
together, wrapping the ribs tightly and securing the seams<br />
closed. Place the packet on a second large sheet of foil and<br />
wrap the packet in the foil, sealing the edges and corners<br />
securely to make sure no liquid will escape. Repeat the process<br />
with the remaining racks.<br />
4. Place the ribs in an ovenproof skillet or even in the grill’s<br />
drip pan, then place the pan on the grill grate away from direct<br />
heat. Close the lid and cook the ribs for 2 hours. If using a<br />
charcoal grill, add hot coals to the fire as needed to maintain<br />
the temperature.<br />
5. Remove the foil-wrapped ribs from the grill and let the<br />
packet rest for about 10 minutes. Then unwrap the package,<br />
saving the foil and all of the juices collected in it. Work carefully,<br />
as the ribs will be very hot and tender, and they can<br />
break apart.<br />
6. Increase the heat of the grill to medium-high (400°F to<br />
450°F). Place the ribs, meat side down, directly on the grate<br />
over the fire and cook for 5 minutes. Flip the ribs over and cook<br />
for 2 to 4 minutes on the other side, until they have a little char.<br />
Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.<br />
7. Cut the ribs apart and arrange them on one or more serving<br />
platters. Spoon the juices from the foil packet over the<br />
ribs and serve.<br />
Kung Fu It: If you don’t have time to cook the ribs fully on the<br />
grill (or want to get a head start), you can cook them in a 300°F<br />
oven for 2 hours, then finish them on the grill to caramelize<br />
the exterior and capture all that flavor from the fire.<br />
Ko-Rican Sauce<br />
MAKES 1½ CUPS<br />
Once I married a Puerto Rican woman, my food became what<br />
we call a little Ko-Rican, and that’s what this sauce is all about.<br />
I learned this recipe from my mother-in-law, Dolores Alicea, aka<br />
Doe or Lola. Let me tell you, the best Puerto Rican restaurant in<br />
town is her house! When I tasted her turkey lechon at our first<br />
Thanksgiving together, it was all over for me. The bright flavors,<br />
the spiciness from the garlic, the tanginess from the vinegar—<br />
everything was new to me. From the moment I tasted her sauces,<br />
I knew I had to learn how to make them. I never put vinegar in<br />
my marinades until I met Lola, but I understood why cooks put<br />
alcohol in marinades, and this is similar: It tenderizes and accentuates<br />
the flavors. Now, her cooking is part of my DNA. I had to<br />
add it to my arsenal of kitchen techniques, but of course, I made<br />
a few changes to kung fu it.<br />
2 tablespoons sweet paprika<br />
2 tablespoons dried oregano<br />
2 tablespoons chili powder<br />
2 tablespoons Madras curry powder<br />
¼ cup salt<br />
½ cup distilled white vinegar<br />
26 cloves garlic, minced<br />
½ cup olive oil<br />
1. Combine the paprika, oregano, chili powder, curry powder, salt,<br />
vinegar, garlic and oil in a small bowl and whisk until well mixed.<br />
2. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up 2 weeks<br />
or freeze for up to 2 months.<br />
Lemongrass Chili Sauce<br />
MAKES 2¼ CUPS<br />
The inspiration for this recipe came from a trip to Thailand I took<br />
a few years ago. Those sweet, spicy, citrusy flavors come right back<br />
to me every time I make it. You can use this sauce for braising<br />
chicken or for making dipping sauces or glazes for fried appetizers,<br />
but I like it best for barbecue. It’s thick enough to cling to the<br />
meat, adds a good char from all the sugars that caramelize on the<br />
grill, and delivers the spicy, fresh flavors of Thailand.<br />
1 teaspoon minced garlic<br />
1 teaspoon minced, peeled fresh ginger<br />
¼ cup minced lemongrass<br />
1 cup sweet chili sauce<br />
¼ cup fish sauce<br />
¼ cup sambal oelek chili paste<br />
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil<br />
1. Combine the garlic, ginger, lemongrass, chili sauce, fish sauce,<br />
sambal oelek and oil in a bowl and whisk until blended.<br />
2. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to<br />
2 weeks or freeze for up to 2 months<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 49
LEMONGRASS CHICKEN<br />
50 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Lemongrass Chicken<br />
MAKES 6 SERVINGS<br />
I think we’ve lost the art of cooking chicken on the bone.<br />
The bones impart flavor to the meat and help the meat cook<br />
evenly. For this recipe, you’re going to cook the chicken in the<br />
sauce in foil packets, so the chicken braises in the sweet sauce<br />
as it slowly cooks on the grill. The foil packet keeps the meat<br />
moist while cooking it evenly. Make sure you use heavy-duty<br />
foil in this recipe, and at least two layers of it.<br />
2 tablespoons Curry Salt (See recipe right)<br />
2 tablespoons Blackening Seasoning (See<br />
recipe right)<br />
4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, thighs,<br />
and drumsticks, in any combination<br />
2 cups Lemongrass Chili Sauce (See recipe page 49)<br />
1 lemon, halved<br />
1. Combine the Curry Salt and Blackening Seasoning in a<br />
small bowl and stir to mix. Season the chicken on both sides<br />
with the mixture, placing the pieces on a large sheet pan<br />
as they are coated. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator<br />
for 1 hour.<br />
2. Heat the grill for indirect heat cooking to medium (350°F<br />
to 375°F). If using a charcoal grill, rake the coals to one<br />
side of the charcoal grate; if using a gas grill, turn off half<br />
of the burners.<br />
3. Stack two good-size sheets of heavy-duty aluminum<br />
foil on a work surface. Place 3 pieces of the chicken in a<br />
single layer in the center of the foil. Spoon some of the chili<br />
sauce over the chicken, coating both sides, and then bring<br />
the sides of the foil together, wrapping the chicken tightly<br />
and sealing the edges and corners securely to make sure<br />
no liquid will escape. Repeat with the remaining chicken<br />
and chili sauce, using 3 pieces of chicken for each packet.<br />
4. Place the foil packets on the grill grate away from the<br />
heat, close the lid, and cook for 45 minutes. Check the temperature<br />
of the cooked chicken by pushing a meat thermometer<br />
through the foil; don’t try to unwrap the chicken<br />
first. Transfer the packets from the grill to a counter or work<br />
surface and let rest for 10 minutes.<br />
5. Open the packets, working carefully because the steam<br />
is hot, and transfer the chicken to a serving platter. Spoon<br />
the sauce from the packets over the chicken, squeeze the<br />
lemon halves over the top, and serve.<br />
Curry Salt<br />
MAKES ½ CUP<br />
Plain salt is boring! I want more flavor when I season something.<br />
When I cooked in high-end French restaurants, I was taught to be<br />
restrained in my seasoning. But once I started making my own food,<br />
I realized that I didn’t have to follow that rule, and I didn’t have to<br />
use plain salt when I could make something with more flavor. This<br />
robustly flavored salt is an essential component of how we season<br />
food at our restaurants. It helps us build those subtle flavors that<br />
you can’t quite identify but know are what make the food so tasty.<br />
¼ cup Madras curry powder<br />
¼ cup kosher salt<br />
1 tablespoon shichimi togarashi<br />
1. Combine the curry powder, salt and shichimi togarashi in a small<br />
bowl and stir to mix. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark<br />
cupboard for up to 6 months<br />
Editor’s Note: Shichimi togarashi is a peppery, complex Japanese<br />
blend of seven spices including dried chilies, dried orange peel,<br />
dried garlic, ground nori, sesame seeds and hemp seeds. While<br />
not exactly the same, you can substitute with Korean Chili flakes<br />
and black sesame seeds if you can’t find it.<br />
Blackening Seasoning<br />
MAKES ¾ CUP<br />
When I was a kid, I used to watch Justin Wilson’s “Cookin’ Cajun” TV<br />
show after school; it came on right after the “Tom and Jerry” cartoons.<br />
I loved it when he’d lean into the camera and tell you, “Ou-wheeeee!<br />
I garontee you’ll like this!” Watching those old shows still makes me<br />
laugh, but his food was serious. He cooked with rice and crayfish, so<br />
it kind of reminded me of the Korean food from home. In a way, he<br />
was my Julia Child. I’m still a huge fan of Cajun food, and I’ll pick<br />
up a jar of hot pickled okra (which is kind of like kimchi) at the store<br />
and eat it in the car. I can’t stop myself—sometimes I finish it before<br />
I even get home! As Justin would say, “I garontee” this seasoning will<br />
become part of your cooking!<br />
¼ cup sweet paprika<br />
¼ cup granulated garlic or garlic powder<br />
¼ cup chili powder<br />
2 teaspoons kosher salt<br />
1. Combine the paprika, granulated garlic, chili powder and salt in<br />
a small bowl and stir to mix.<br />
2. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark cupboard for up to<br />
6 months. <br />
NUTRITION<br />
HONEY SOY FLANK STEAK:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 404 (129 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 4g);<br />
SODIUM 1313mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 56g<br />
KO-RICAN-STYLE BABY BACK RIBS:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 1065 (673 from fat); FAT 75g (sat.<br />
24g); SODIUM 4210mg; CARB 19g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 75g<br />
Note: If sodium level is a concern, consider reducing the salt<br />
in the Ko-Rican Sauce portion of the recipe.<br />
LEMONGRASS CHICKEN:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 492 (190 from fat); FAT 21g (sat.<br />
5g); SODIUM 2567mg; CARB 26g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 48g<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 51
Greek <strong>Food</strong> Today<br />
Diane Kochilas shares delicious twists from her kitchen to yours<br />
BY TARA Q. THOMAS<br />
It was the spanakopita grilled cheese that got me. There, on TV, was Diane Kochilas, often<br />
known as the Greek <strong>Food</strong> Guru, sandwiching spinach pie filling between two pieces of<br />
bread and giving it the American grilled cheese treatment. It was the sort of riff on a classic<br />
dish that could have come off as sacrilege, but in her hands—broadcast from her Athens,<br />
Greece, kitchen on her own PBS show—it seemed entirely natural, not to mention delicious.<br />
For 30 years, Kochilas has built her career on bringing Greek cuisine to the masses,<br />
whether it’s through books—18 at last count—or on TV, on her own shows as well as those<br />
of stars including Martha Stewart, Bobby Flay and Andrew Zimmern. She has been filing<br />
stories on the country’s foodways for major newspapers and magazines for the three decades,<br />
and has run the Glorious Greek Cooking School on her ancestral island of Ikaria since 2003.<br />
Respected institutions such as the Culinary Institute of America and Harvard have tapped<br />
her for her expertise, and so have numerous restaurateurs. She has consulted for Pylos and<br />
Molyvos, two of the top Greek restaurants in New York City, as well as Avli in Chicago and<br />
Volos in Toronto. She is currently the consulting chef for Committee in Boston.<br />
Her latest book, however, is a departure from her usual deep dive into the specifics of a<br />
place. Instead, it reflects on what she cooks in her own home. “My Greek Table,” a large,<br />
lushly illustrated volume that grew out of her PBS show of the same name, is a fascinating<br />
peek into what real Greek cooking is today. It captures the feel of a cuisine that’s alive and<br />
vital, as diverse as the people who flow through the country and as sensitive to the politics,<br />
economics and time pressures as any. Spanakopita sandwiches instead of a phyllo pie? Heck<br />
yes. And with a side of her tahini-avocado dip, please.<br />
It took Kochilas a while to get to this point. In part, it’s the double-edged sword of being<br />
a foreigner in an adopted land. She is American, the daughter of a Greek immigrant<br />
who married a Greek-Italian from Brooklyn and was born in Queens, the largest borough of<br />
New York City. “My dad cooked—he worked as a cook in the merchant marine—but he passed<br />
away when I was a kid,” she tells me from<br />
Athens, where she has lived since 1992.<br />
While she came to Greek food free from the<br />
constraints that tradition and familiarity<br />
can enforce, she also had to work hard to<br />
discover what the locals know inherently.<br />
Her exposure to real Greek food was limited<br />
until she was 12. “My mother, in her<br />
infinite wisdom, wanted to keep a young<br />
teenager off the streets of New York in the<br />
1970s,” Kochilas explains. “She was a working<br />
mom then, and what was I to do alone in the<br />
summer? So she sent me with my older sister<br />
to Greece.”<br />
She landed in Ikaria, her father’s homeland,<br />
and the connection was instantaneous.<br />
“I can’t even begin to describe it,” Kochilas<br />
says. “I couldn’t even really speak much<br />
Greek. I just remember this feeling of, ‘Wow,<br />
this place is really special.’ ” She continued<br />
to spend nearly every summer in Greece<br />
before heading off to New York University<br />
to study journalism. “I’ve always been a<br />
writer since I was a little kid,” she reflects.<br />
Although she found work as an editor at a<br />
PHOTO THOMAS JASTRAM - ADOBE STOCK<br />
52 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
KOCHILAS GEORGE VITSARAS<br />
IKARIA, GREECE<br />
magazine afterward, she always returned to<br />
Greece. “I can’t get through the year if I don’t<br />
spend the summer in Ikaria,” she says, only<br />
partly joking.<br />
The island is special, even among the<br />
6,000 that Greece boasts, she says. “Culturally,<br />
it’s very different. There’s no natural port, so<br />
it was never a stopover on any trade routes,<br />
and because the waters around it are very<br />
rough, it was always a place of exile, the place<br />
the politically unwanted were sent. As a<br />
result, there’s an open-mindedness that’s<br />
part of people’s DNA and a strong sense of<br />
solidarity. It’s also not a particularly materialistic<br />
place, so it’s a breath of fresh air.”<br />
It also happens to be full of exceptionally<br />
healthy people, something Kochilas noted<br />
long before the New York Times Magazine<br />
trumpeted Ikaria as part of the “Blue Zone,”<br />
where life expectancy far exceeds the norm.<br />
On Ikaria, one in three people live beyond<br />
90, and few ever develop heart disease or<br />
dementia. The old people may be wrinkled<br />
and stooped with age, but they are still gathering<br />
in cafes and climbing the stone steps<br />
to church. “People are walking everywhere<br />
and gardening—bending, stretching, killing<br />
the lambs,” Kochilas says.<br />
That’s the place where Kochilas’ approach<br />
to food began to take shape. “It’s the<br />
Mediterranean diet,” she explains. “Lots of<br />
foraged foods—mushrooms, wild greens<br />
and herbs—simply prepared. And seasonal<br />
—the cuisine is based on really fresh food<br />
in season.” While she eats meat, Kochilas<br />
thralls to the diversity and resourcefulness<br />
of Greek cooks when it comes to plantbased<br />
cuisine. “Greece probably has more<br />
vegetable main courses than any other cuisine<br />
in the Mediterranean,” she says. “There<br />
are all sorts of beans and pulses, and all sorts<br />
of greens and vegetables, that are steamed<br />
or stewed with a lot of olive oil.”<br />
Reading “My Greek Table,” it’s clear just<br />
how resourceful and creative Greeks have<br />
been over the centuries, taking humble ingredients<br />
and preparing them in countless flavorful<br />
ways, often influenced by the myriad<br />
cultures that have left their impressions on<br />
the land. There are the ravioli that nod to the<br />
Venetians who once occupied parts of Greece<br />
and that Kochilas moves into the modern era<br />
by using wonton wrappers instead of handrolled<br />
pasta. The five eggplant dishes come<br />
from Lesvos, an island she says claims at least<br />
22 unique recipes—a nod to the island’s<br />
proximity to Turkey. This means that when<br />
you turn to a recipe for Greek Honey Hot<br />
Sauce, it doesn’t come across as strange;<br />
rather, it’s Kochilas doing what Greeks have<br />
always done—absorbing influences and<br />
making a dish her own. That particular recipe<br />
was inspired by staff meals she has had<br />
while working in professional kitchens, many<br />
of which are staffed by Mexicans. “Staff meals<br />
are always these cultural hybrids,” she says.<br />
“Some of my best cooking is in fact those<br />
dishes. And I like spicy.”<br />
But if you want to cook like a Greek, it’s<br />
best to start with the basics—and the basics<br />
are terrifically easy. All you’ll need is a bottle<br />
of good Greek olive oil and a lemon. “Greeks<br />
are the third largest producers and first in<br />
consumption of olive oil,” Kochilas tells me,<br />
“and we love lemon.” Lemon juice, in fact,<br />
combined with olive oil, makes up what she<br />
calls “the most fundamental flavor profile in<br />
the Greek kitchen.” Whip together one part<br />
lemon juice with three parts olive oil, and<br />
you have ladolemeno, a creamy dressing<br />
traditionally poured over vegetables and<br />
grilled fish. At home Kochilas will sometimes<br />
use it in place of mayonnaise dressing<br />
in a coleslaw, or add extra lemon so she can<br />
make a Greek-accented ceviche.<br />
DIANE KOCHILAS<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 53
“Greeks are the third<br />
largest producer and first<br />
in consumption of olive<br />
oil and we love lemon …<br />
the most fundamental<br />
flavor profile in the<br />
Greek kitchen.”<br />
—Diane Kochilas<br />
RECIPE AND PHOTO FROM “FROM MY<br />
GREEK TABLE” BY DIANE KOCHILAS. ©2018<br />
BY THE AUTHOR AND REPRINTED BY<br />
PERMISSION OF ST. MARTIN'S GRIFFIN.<br />
FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY VASILIS STENOS<br />
FOOD STYLING BY CAROLINA DORITI<br />
Interestingly, there’s a bonus beyond taste<br />
for blending the two. “The lemon actually helps<br />
make the nutrients in foods more available to<br />
your body, especially when you’re cooking anything<br />
with greens,” she says. “There’s this folk<br />
knowledge about it in Greece. Many people<br />
don’t know the reasoning behind it; they just<br />
do it naturally.” She calls out spanakorizo, a<br />
popular dish of rice cooked with spinach, as an<br />
example. “The spinach and rice make a complete<br />
protein; you squeeze lemon over it, and<br />
that makes it much easier for your body to<br />
absorb the iron. There are a lot of little secrets<br />
like that, that people know innately.”<br />
To add extra flavor to a dish, Greeks tend to<br />
look to herbs rather than spice. “That’s not to<br />
say [Greeks] don’t use spices—certainly cinnamon<br />
and nutmeg, allspice and cumin are<br />
fairly common—but the use of herbs is more<br />
pronounced,” she says. “And the use of herbs<br />
as medicine is still a living tradition; people<br />
will make all sorts of herbal teas for all sorts<br />
of ailments.”<br />
And Kochilas admits to a few “secret weapons”<br />
in the kitchen, like dried-mushroom<br />
powder, even though there’s nothing particularly<br />
Greek about it. “I just grind dried mushrooms<br />
and add the powder to meat and darkflavored<br />
dishes,” she explains. And she’s not<br />
shy about salt, which intensifies flavors. “The<br />
fear of salt in the U.S. is because people eat so<br />
much processed foods that they are getting<br />
much more salt than they need,” she says. If<br />
you lay off the processed foods, there’s no reason<br />
to leave off the salt, or to avoid the capers,<br />
feta, taramasalata and other saline ingredients<br />
that spike so many Greek dishes.<br />
All that said, there are a few differences that<br />
take attention to bridge. One is the vegetables<br />
themselves. “I just had a conversation with a<br />
friend a few nights ago about a pumpkin<br />
moussaka recipe she loves, but she was complaining<br />
that the pumpkin tends to be watery,”<br />
Kochilas relates. “That’s because, in the U.S.,<br />
everything tends to be overwatered and less<br />
flavorful. Greece is quite a dry country, and<br />
people don’t water their plants as much, so the<br />
fruit here, from olives to strawberries, tends<br />
to be intensely flavored.” The difference can<br />
require some adjusting. For example, in<br />
Kochilas’s take on the recipe in “My Greek<br />
Table,” she has replaced pumpkin with a combination<br />
of the tighter-fleshed butternut<br />
squash as well as sweet potatoes.<br />
The other difference is how people eat.<br />
While the average Athenian’s daily schedule<br />
now looks all too much just like a New<br />
Yorker’s, complete with work-desk lunches<br />
and rushed dinners, the epitome of a good<br />
meal still means a varied selection of mezes—<br />
little plates—to be enjoyed over a drink with<br />
family and friends. “There’s no fast rule,”<br />
Kochilas says when I ask her how many plates<br />
there should be, and what sorts. “The real rule<br />
is to have variety—in terms of textures, you’ll<br />
want spreads that are soft, as well as things that<br />
are crunchy; you’ll want dishes of varied heat<br />
levels, some spicy and others milder.” The only<br />
constraint as to how many dishes to make is<br />
your energy level, she says, but even then, the<br />
work can be spread over the course of days.<br />
“Dips you can do a day or two ahead of time;<br />
phyllo pies, whether individual or whole, you<br />
can make ahead and freeze raw, then bake<br />
them to order. And a lot of mezes are served<br />
at room temperature, so you don’t have to<br />
worry about serving them just out of the oven.<br />
That goes for all sorts of things, even braised<br />
bean dishes and pies,” she says.<br />
As for what to make, well, perhaps the most<br />
important lesson to take away from “My<br />
Greek Table” is that to cook like a Greek, you<br />
don’t have to stick to any recipe. “You sort of<br />
know what your guests like,” Kochilas says,<br />
adding, “and recipes evolve. The chicken<br />
keftedes: That came out of my own head. In<br />
Greece we’d more likely use pork or lamb, but<br />
that was one that was on the menu at<br />
Committee, and we were keeping in mind<br />
what people in the U.S. like to eat.” And<br />
whereas Greeks would likely serve them with<br />
a garlickly yogurt sauce, Kochilas might opt<br />
for fresh peas in the summer, whirring<br />
them with olive oil and herbs until silky and<br />
bright green.<br />
Then Kochilas hesitates. “There is one rule,”<br />
she admits. “But it concerns what to serve for<br />
a drink. Generally, anything that swims goes<br />
well with ouzo or grappa—what we call tsipouro—and<br />
everything that walks goes well<br />
with wine.” But then again, this is Greece. “Of<br />
course that’s not to say that with grilled<br />
shrimp, you might not want to have a nice<br />
white wine,” she says, and I can practically<br />
hear her wink. Anything goes—as long as it’s<br />
fresh, seasonal and seasoned with plenty of<br />
lemon and olive oil. <br />
TELEVISION STILL GEORGE VITSARAS<br />
54 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
Baked Chicken Keftedes<br />
MAKES 6 MEZE (APPETIZER) SERVINGS<br />
Classic Greek meatballs are made with either ground pork, lamb,<br />
beef or a combination thereof. Here’s a lighter version, flavored the<br />
classic way with plenty of onions, a little garlic and a lot of mint—the<br />
telltale herb in all Greek meatballs. Serve these with tzatziki, fresh<br />
pea fava, feta cheese dips or yogurt dressings.<br />
2 pounds ground chicken or turkey<br />
3 garlic cloves, minced<br />
2 red onions, finely chopped<br />
1 large egg, lightly beaten<br />
2 tablespoons extra virgin Greek olive oil,<br />
plus more for frying<br />
1/2 teaspoon paprika<br />
2/3 cup chopped fresh mint<br />
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley<br />
1/2 to 1 cup panko bread crumbs<br />
salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />
1. In a large bowl, combine the ground chicken, garlic, onions, egg,<br />
olive oil, paprika, mint, parsley and 1/2 cup of the panko. Season<br />
with salt and pepper and mix to combine. Test for firm ness by<br />
shaping one meatball. If it holds its shape, don't add any more of<br />
the panko; if it comes apart, add more of the panko, a tablespoon<br />
at a time, until the mixture is firm enough to hold its shape when<br />
formed into a meatball.<br />
2. Heat a little olive oil in a small skillet. Take a teaspoon of the<br />
mixture and fry it to test for seasoning; adjust accordingly.<br />
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Form the mixture<br />
into 1-tablespoon meatballs. Place them on the prepared baking<br />
sheet in neat rows. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate<br />
for at least 30 minutes or up to 6 hours.<br />
4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Uncover and bake the meatballs<br />
for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown, turning gently with a<br />
spatula or kitchen tongs, until browned on all sides. Remove from<br />
the oven and serve.<br />
Spring Fresh Pea Puree<br />
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS<br />
Fava is one of the all-time classic Greek meze [appetizer]<br />
recipes, most often made with yellow split peas cooked<br />
until they disintegrate into a puree. … Here's a contemporary<br />
idea that calls for using fresh or frozen peas. It works<br />
well as a sandwich spread or spooned over bruschetta, and<br />
it pairs beautifully with ouzo-seared shrimp or grilled or<br />
fried seafood.<br />
2 cups fresh or frozen shelled peas<br />
1/2 cup ouzo, or 1 star anise pod<br />
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley<br />
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon<br />
1/3 to 2/3 cup extra virgin Greek olive oil<br />
juice of 1 lemon, plus more as needed, strained<br />
Greek sea salt or kosher salt<br />
freshly ground black pepper<br />
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or red onion<br />
scant 1 teaspoon whole pink peppercorns<br />
2 tablespoons crumbled Greek feta<br />
1. Place the peas in a medium saucepan and add water<br />
to cover and the ouzo or star anise. Cover and bring to a<br />
boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and<br />
simmer until tender, about 3 minutes for fresh peas, 3 to<br />
5 minutes for frozen. Drain (discard the star anise, if you<br />
used it).<br />
2. Transfer the hot peas to the bowl of a food processor.<br />
Add the parsley and tarragon. While pulsing on and off,<br />
add enough of the olive oil and lemon juice in alternating<br />
increments to achieve a smooth, silky puree. Season with<br />
salt and black pepper to taste.<br />
3. Transfer the fava to a serving dish and garnish with the<br />
chives, pink peppercorns and feta.<br />
Tip: Do not salt the water when boiling peas because doing<br />
so toughens them up.<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 55
pairings<br />
Burger Buddies<br />
Take your cue from a burger’s toppings when making a match with wine<br />
BY MARY SUBIALKA<br />
Thick, juicy burgers are a gloriously delicious part of the summer<br />
grilling season. In general, any ground beef burger will have some<br />
slightly sweet vanilla and earthy flavors contributed by smokiness<br />
and a caramelized flavor from the meat’s charred sugars. A wine with<br />
richness, fruit flavor and a decent amount of acidity or tannins will<br />
pair well with those characteristics. It’s hard to go wrong with a cool<br />
Beaujolais, Merlot or Pinot Noir with a basic burger.<br />
Flavors contributed by the various toppings you choose to add to<br />
the mix can also be a way to select tasty wine partners:<br />
- Classic lettuce, tomato, raw onion, ketchup and mayonnaise:<br />
Aussie Shiraz or California Syrah pair well with this flavor combo.<br />
- Pickle relish and yellow mustard: White Zinfandel’s soft and fruity<br />
characters offer balance. A sparkling wine may also be a nice match.<br />
If sweet pickle relish is on its own, try Gewürztraminer.<br />
- Avocado, cucumber and sprouts: Sauvignon Blanc is good for<br />
white wine fans, Merlot for fans of red.<br />
- Bold cheeses, such as blue cheese or sharp cheddar: Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon can stand up to the strong flavors of the cheese<br />
while the meat’s richness softens the wine’s tannins.<br />
- Bacon and cheddar: Spanish Rioja has its own<br />
smoky flavor that goes well with the bacon.<br />
- Grilled onions and mustard: White<br />
Zinfandel’s soft fruit flavor balances<br />
the onions and tart condiment.<br />
So fire up the grill, ponder your<br />
spread of toppings, and uncork some<br />
delicious burger buddies—the grilling<br />
season provides ample opportunity<br />
to experiment with nuances of pairing<br />
so you can find your perfect match. <br />
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN<br />
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS<br />
56 real food summer <strong>2019</strong>
PHOTO BY SPACECRAFTING<br />
“Since 1992, Erotas has created<br />
architecturally driven residences<br />
that are unparalleled in quality.<br />
We’re dedicated to making every<br />
detail of your home exceptional.<br />
That’s the Erotas way.”<br />
952.401.4300<br />
EROTASCUSTOMBUILDING.COM<br />
LC#BC004898