Real Food Summer 2019
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Slow-Grilled Ko-Rican-Style<br />
Baby Back Ribs<br />
MAKES 6 SERVINGS<br />
The key to cooking these ribs on the grill is to do it low and<br />
slow. That means over indirect heat so the ribs are next to, rather<br />
than directly over, the fire and the lid is closed. This method<br />
turns the grill into an outdoor oven, and the ribs don’t burn<br />
on the outside before turning soft and tender on the inside.<br />
I always want to grab one of these straight off the grill, but<br />
you’ll burn yourself on the hot bones if you don’t wait for a<br />
few minutes—trust me on that!<br />
1½ cups Ko-Rican Sauce (See recipe right)<br />
1½ cups Lemongrass Chili Sauce (See recipe right)<br />
2 tablespoons ground black pepper<br />
3 (3-pound) racks baby back pork ribs<br />
1. Combine the Ko-Rican Sauce, chili sauce and pepper in<br />
a large, shallow dish and mix well. Add the ribs and turn to<br />
coat evenly. Marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.<br />
2. Heat the grill for indirect heat cooking to medium-low<br />
(300°F to 325°F). (If using a charcoal grill, rake the coals to<br />
one side of the charcoal grate; if using a gas grill, turn off half<br />
of the burners.)<br />
3. While the grill is heating, lay a large sheet of heavy-duty<br />
aluminum foil on a work surface. Remove a rack of ribs from<br />
the marinade, place in the center of the foil, and then spoon<br />
some of the marinade onto the ribs. Bring the sides of the foil<br />
together, wrapping the ribs tightly and securing the seams<br />
closed. Place the packet on a second large sheet of foil and<br />
wrap the packet in the foil, sealing the edges and corners<br />
securely to make sure no liquid will escape. Repeat the process<br />
with the remaining racks.<br />
4. Place the ribs in an ovenproof skillet or even in the grill’s<br />
drip pan, then place the pan on the grill grate away from direct<br />
heat. Close the lid and cook the ribs for 2 hours. If using a<br />
charcoal grill, add hot coals to the fire as needed to maintain<br />
the temperature.<br />
5. Remove the foil-wrapped ribs from the grill and let the<br />
packet rest for about 10 minutes. Then unwrap the package,<br />
saving the foil and all of the juices collected in it. Work carefully,<br />
as the ribs will be very hot and tender, and they can<br />
break apart.<br />
6. Increase the heat of the grill to medium-high (400°F to<br />
450°F). Place the ribs, meat side down, directly on the grate<br />
over the fire and cook for 5 minutes. Flip the ribs over and cook<br />
for 2 to 4 minutes on the other side, until they have a little char.<br />
Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.<br />
7. Cut the ribs apart and arrange them on one or more serving<br />
platters. Spoon the juices from the foil packet over the<br />
ribs and serve.<br />
Kung Fu It: If you don’t have time to cook the ribs fully on the<br />
grill (or want to get a head start), you can cook them in a 300°F<br />
oven for 2 hours, then finish them on the grill to caramelize<br />
the exterior and capture all that flavor from the fire.<br />
Ko-Rican Sauce<br />
MAKES 1½ CUPS<br />
Once I married a Puerto Rican woman, my food became what<br />
we call a little Ko-Rican, and that’s what this sauce is all about.<br />
I learned this recipe from my mother-in-law, Dolores Alicea, aka<br />
Doe or Lola. Let me tell you, the best Puerto Rican restaurant in<br />
town is her house! When I tasted her turkey lechon at our first<br />
Thanksgiving together, it was all over for me. The bright flavors,<br />
the spiciness from the garlic, the tanginess from the vinegar—<br />
everything was new to me. From the moment I tasted her sauces,<br />
I knew I had to learn how to make them. I never put vinegar in<br />
my marinades until I met Lola, but I understood why cooks put<br />
alcohol in marinades, and this is similar: It tenderizes and accentuates<br />
the flavors. Now, her cooking is part of my DNA. I had to<br />
add it to my arsenal of kitchen techniques, but of course, I made<br />
a few changes to kung fu it.<br />
2 tablespoons sweet paprika<br />
2 tablespoons dried oregano<br />
2 tablespoons chili powder<br />
2 tablespoons Madras curry powder<br />
¼ cup salt<br />
½ cup distilled white vinegar<br />
26 cloves garlic, minced<br />
½ cup olive oil<br />
1. Combine the paprika, oregano, chili powder, curry powder, salt,<br />
vinegar, garlic and oil in a small bowl and whisk until well mixed.<br />
2. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up 2 weeks<br />
or freeze for up to 2 months.<br />
Lemongrass Chili Sauce<br />
MAKES 2¼ CUPS<br />
The inspiration for this recipe came from a trip to Thailand I took<br />
a few years ago. Those sweet, spicy, citrusy flavors come right back<br />
to me every time I make it. You can use this sauce for braising<br />
chicken or for making dipping sauces or glazes for fried appetizers,<br />
but I like it best for barbecue. It’s thick enough to cling to the<br />
meat, adds a good char from all the sugars that caramelize on the<br />
grill, and delivers the spicy, fresh flavors of Thailand.<br />
1 teaspoon minced garlic<br />
1 teaspoon minced, peeled fresh ginger<br />
¼ cup minced lemongrass<br />
1 cup sweet chili sauce<br />
¼ cup fish sauce<br />
¼ cup sambal oelek chili paste<br />
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil<br />
1. Combine the garlic, ginger, lemongrass, chili sauce, fish sauce,<br />
sambal oelek and oil in a bowl and whisk until blended.<br />
2. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to<br />
2 weeks or freeze for up to 2 months<br />
summer <strong>2019</strong> real food 49