World Traveller September 2019

Opening pages from left to
right: The beach at Belmond Villa
Sant'Andrea; a mixture of Sicilian
appetisers by Oliviero restaurant at
the Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea
Opposite: The view from a room at
Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea
This page clockwise from top
left: A bee gets to work on making
lavender honey on Etna; strolling
over solidified lava on Etna;
Salvatore Rodolico, a boat builder in
Acitrezza; granita and brioche
fresh by the local fishermen and the
must-try arancini (a ball of creamy
risotto rice that’s breaded and then deep
fried), meals are an art form here.
“Mamma mia!” exclaim my Italian
companions, as they sample the simple
yet utterly delicious delights. While I’m
no foodie, I took this as a sure sign I
was onto a good thing. One thing I can
assure you, is that you haven’t tasted
the real Sicily until you try granita.
This classic dessert, also a staple
breakfast dish eaten with brioche, is
thought to have been inspired by Arab
culture during the Muslim conquest
of Sicily from 827 until 902 CE.
“They brought citrus and sugar cane
with them and, essentially, they taught
us how to make sherbet,” says chef
Giovanna Musumeci, as she rolled up
her sleeves to show us how it’s done
in the small but lively Pasticceria
Santo Musumeci in Randazzo.
Just like sorbet, but crunchier, granita
is made by blending water, sugar and
fruit juice and freezing it in a metal
‘
EACH COURSE
IS SERVED IN A
DIFFERENT HOME,
WITH A SIDE OF
MOTHERLY LOVE
’
pan, scraping off the crystals that have
formed around the sides and mixing
them together to make a refreshingly
semi-frozen treat. Simply tear off a
chunk of brioche and use it to scoop
the granita straight into your mouth.
All manner of flavours are added, from
mulberry to lemon, but for breakfast you
can’t go wrong with coffee or almond
flavoured granita – the latter is typical
to the region of Catania. Speaking of
which, the pistachios are a must-try.
Again, I am assured with great gusto
by the Italians that the little green nuts
here are like nowhere else on the planet –
“mamma mia!” they all cheer in unison.
Dining in Sicily is a social affair and if
you’re eager to sit down with the locals,
you must check out the Le Mamme del
Borgo experience. The brainchild of a
group of mothers in the charming village
of Motta Camastra, you’ll be whisked
away for lunch or dinner served in the
homes of these talented matriarchs. Each
course is served in a different home,
giving you the chance to taste authentic
dishes with a side of motherly love. It’s
a fantastic way to learn why Sicilians
are so passionate about cooking.
I’d ventured to Sicily for more than just
good food, however. For me, the sparkling
coastline was the draw card. The
Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea, where I was
staying, was certainly a feast for the eyes.
Set on its own private beach in Taormina
Bay, the views are simply stunning. In
snagging a suite with a balcony facing the
Bay of Mazzarò, I’d found my temporarily
child-free happy place where I could
read for hours while colourful boats
bobbed in the water, brave swimmers
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