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J'AIME MARCH 2020

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of smoked salmon, and a couple of hunks of soft,

crusty bread to ensure everything got mopped up.

My husband opted for the beetroot and goats’ cheese

arancini with red pepper coulis and basil pesto, £6.

It was a very pretty dish, however I can’t possibly

comment on the taste since I didn’t get a look in -

I’m assured that means it was a success.

For the main event I was tempted by the sea bass

special, served with lemon and caper butter, crushed

potato, kale, spinach and parsley, £14.50, and the

signature rotisserie style chicken with homemade

coleslaw, from £6 - until I spied a parade of burgers

making their way to a neighbouring table. And so

it was The Red Lion beef burger, £13.50, with the

bacon and stilton topper - there are also cheddar and

chorizo, or spiced halloumi options.

The burger was a true behemoth; a

gloriously meaty patty adorned with

thickly sliced bacon, a generous helping

of stilton and the obligatory salad, all

sandwiched between a soft brioche

bun and topped with a wedge of pickle

for good measure. The meat itself was

wonderfully flavoursome and deliciously

juicy which made it difficult for the

brioche to contain all the component

parts but no bother, not when it tasted

as good as it did. Not an elegant dish

by any stretch of the imagination, but

certainly a most satisfying one.

The accompanying chips were

generously portioned and beautifully

crisp with a nicely fluffy interior, while

a side order of corn on the cob, £3,

was a thinly veiled attempt to offset the

calorific damage by adding in one of

my five-a-day - and a rather futile one,

slathered in garlic butter as it was.

My husband’s 8oz fillet steak, £24,

was another thing of beauty;

perfectly cooked to the requested

rare, it was richly flavoured with

a wonderful hint of chargrill,

and so tender that the knife slid

through it like butter - the real

hallmark of a good steak. As

someone who’s eaten his fair

share of steak, both good and

bad, he’s not an easy man to

impress in such matters - but

impressed he was.

The accompanying stilton sauce,

£2, was perfect for dipping the

hand-cut chips, and the rest

of the rest of the trimmings

went down a treat too; tomato,

mushroom and a sizable pile of

enormous onion rings coated in a beautifully light

and crispy batter.

The Red Lion’s portions are certainly on the

generous side, so no one would blame you if you

didn’t have room for dessert; although that would

mean missing out on classics like jam roly poly,

chocolate fudge cake and banana split. While my

husband stuck to coffee, I found the mixed berry

pavlova with raspberry sorbet, £6, was the perfect

way to end the meal; light, refreshing and the perfect

balance of sweet and tart.

With a crowd-pleasing menu offering quality food,

plus a seriously warm welcome and exemplary

service, The Red Lion is everything a good village

pub should be.

53

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