World Traveller March 2020

Women wear the traditional
Japanese kimono while
strolling through a park in
Osaka that's bursting with
cherry blossom
Onsen
You may have a romantic vision of
steaming rock pools cloaked in forest
— and, while these do exist, know
that the majority of onsen hot springs
are slightly clinical indoor affairs.
With very few exceptions, genders
are strictly separated and swimming
costumes are banned (it’s birthday
suits only, folks). Almost every onsen
posts guidelines inside the bathing
areas to avoid foreigner faux pas, but
the other main rules are: no tattoos
allowed (if you have a small one, cover
it with a plaster); wash your body
thoroughly with soap before entering
the pools (sit on the shower stool,
don’t stand); and never let your small
towel (there to protect your modesty)
touch the water — when bathing,
simply rest it on your head or leave it
at the side.
Sumo
Catching a sumo tournament in
action can be tricky, as basho only
occur six times a year, in Tokyo,
Osaka, Nagoya or Fukuoka. If your
visit coincides, buy tickets online,
then pop in anytime during the
daylong sessions (a couple of hours is
usually enough). If not, you can
still get a sumo ‘experience’ by
visiting Tokyo’s Ryogoku district’s
stables (beya), where the wrestlers
live and train. Ask your tour operator
to arrange.
Bullet Trains
The famously fast Shinkansen
(which can reach up to 320kph) isn’t
one train, but a network that runs
between the country’s main hubs.
Comfy and faultlessly punctual, it’s
a no-brainer way to get between
Tokyo and Kyoto, and plenty of other
places, too, if you invest in a Japan
Rail Pass. But the pass excludes
transport on Nozomi, the fastest
train service, so if your heart is set on
zipping along at top speeds, you’ll
need to splash out separately.
26 worldtravellermagazine.com