World Traveller March 2020

JAPAN
Soak up the steamy
views at Ōwakudani,
a volcanic valley with
active sulphur vents
and hot springs
Days 7-9
KYOTO, FOR CULTURE
Rise early for the train from Hakone-
Yumoto station to Odawara city (a
15-minute ride) and join the Tokaido
Shinkansen bullet train westbound
to Kyoto (two to three hours).
Steeped in centuries of history, the
ancient imperial capital is Japan’s
cultural heart, with 17 UNESCO World
Heritage sites. Mitigate the inevitable
crowds by avoiding the cherry
blossom and autumn seasons, and by
renting bikes or sharing taxis instead
of enduring the squeeze of the busy
bus network. It’s also worth hitting
major sites early.
Visit the Imperial Palace and
17th-century Nijo Castle on arrival.
Then check in at Enso Ango, a hotel
spread over five historic buildings.
A walk away is the Nishiki produce
market and Yasaka Shrine, beautifully
illuminated at night. At 5.30pm, spot
geishas in nearby Gion and Pontocho
areas. Don’t be fooled by costumed
tourists — and reckon on crowds.
Kyoto’s eastern edge is fringed
with noteworthy Buddhist temples.
Spend day two on foot, starting at
6am at Kiyomizu-dera for a tranquil
start in this, the city’s most popular
temple. By 8am it’s busy, so head for
Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka slopes
for teahouses old and new (try the
Starbucks Tea Parlour, in a 100-yearold
house). Marvel at grand-scale
Chion-in temple and eclectic Nanzen-
ji, with its giant pines, rock garden
and aqueduct, as you head north
towards the gorgeous Philosopher’s
Path for a 30-minute canal-side
stroll to Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion
(spoiler alert — it’s not silver, but
the rock garden is sublime). There’s
a whole range of places to eat en
route: try Jugo (opposite Mirokuin
temple), or book Monk for seven
hyper-local courses, including
chrysanthemum pizza.
Start day three bright and early,
photographing Kinkaku-ji, the Golden
Pavilion, as soon as it opens at 9am,
before clambering aboard Kyoto’s
only remaining tram, destination
Arashiyama (22 minutes), to marvel
at the towering Kitasaga Bamboo
Grove. Spend the afternoon absorbed
in temple contemplation (known as
zazen) at Shorin-ji temple or winding
down in a real Kyoto sento (public
bath house).
Alternatively, head south to the
famous Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine
and make the two-hour-plus hike
through the tunnel of torii gates to
the summit of Mount Inari. Raise a
final glass to Kyoto while sipping
your way through the Fushimi Saké
District, before taking an evening
Shinkansen bullet train west to
Hiroshima (1hr 40min).
Take time to reflect
at the Hiroshima
Peace Memorial
Days 10-12
HIROSHIMA, FOR REFLECTION
Be prepared for strong emotions when
visiting the city that was the world’s
first to suffer an atomic bombing.
Don’t rush it: allow a full day in the
contemplative Peace Memorial Park,
entering via the Aioi bridge, the
bomb’s intended target on August
6, 1945. Across the Motoyasu river
stands the A-Bomb Dome, one of a
few buildings left standing. Onwards
into the park is the Children’s Peace
Monument, topped with the figure of
child victim Sadako Sasaki beneath
an origami crane. Steel yourself for
the Peace Memorial Museum, which
includes a devastating exhibition of
personal stories and artefacts. Later,
for relief, take an evening bicycle tour
along the riverside, passing Hiroshima
Castle, followed by an izakaya
crawl around un-touristy Yokogawa
neighbourhood.
Spend the next day exploring
contemporary Hiroshima, with a
downloadable architecture trail from
Arch-Walk Hiroshima, featuring
everything from public toilets
resembling an origami crane to
an incinerator created by Yoshio
Taniguchi, the architect behind the
smooth 2004 extension of MoMA in
New York.
30 worldtravellermagazine.com