Jewellery World Magazine - March 2020

MARCH 2020
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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Jewellery World Magazine
ABN: 41 143 385 895
ISSN: 2207-6751
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570
P: 0431 844 903
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
managing director
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au
editor
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au
contributing writers
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
Stefan Juengling
Cheryl D Harty
REGULARS
6 News
12 Palloy's Points
14 Trade Well with Rami Baron
16 JAA News
36 Keeping Skills Alive
38 Watches
42 New Products
43 Directory
FEATURES
20
28
art
design@jewelleryworld.net.au
advertising sales
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au
20 Top tips to maximise sales for Mother's Day
We talk to three top retailers and get their tips
for success this Mother's Day.
26 AGHA Show Report
The Jewellery World Pavilion at the AGHA Gift
Fair was a success for all involved.
34
28 Making Out
Manufacturing the jewellery we love - how
tech has changed the custom-made space.
DISCLAIMER:
This publication may not be reproduced
in whole or part without the written
permission of the Publisher.
Articles express the opinions of the
authors and are not necessarily those of the
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or
service in this magazine does not indicate the
Publisher’s endorsement.
The Publisher excludes all liability for
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false
or misleading statements that may appear
in this publication.
All information is copyright.
32 Jeweller Profile
KL Diamonds offer us a peak into their
showroom and workshop.
34 2020 Diamond Guild Australia Awards
Entries are open for this year's jewellery design
awards.
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
MARCH 2020
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
FRONT COVER
Ellani Collections
www.ellanicollections.com.au
4
jewellery world - March 2020

All Silver is Rhodium Plated
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)
• International Jewellery Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU

News
Sustainable jewellery at the BAFTAs
Lucara unearths 549ct diamond
Continuing its extraordinary run of exceptional diamond discoveries, Lucara
Diamond Corp has unearthed an unbroken 549 carat white diamond from its
Karowe Diamond Mine in Botswana. The diamond “of exceptional purity” is the
fourth largest diamond ever retrieved from the mine and the sixth diamond over
100 carats recovered by Lucara in 2020.
Independent analyst Paul Zimnisky has stated that the stone is also the fourth gemquality
stone over 500 carats to be recovered globally within the last 5 years.
The 549-carat diamond was recovered in the Mega Diamond Recovery (MDR) XRT
circuit when the diamond is recovered between the processes of crushing and
milling. A gem quality 176-carat stone was previously recovered from the same ore
block.
Lucara will make a decision regarding the sale of both stones in due course.
"Lucara is extremely pleased to be starting off 2020 with the recovery of two, large,
high quality diamonds that builds on the positive momentum generated following
the completion of a strong Q4 sale in December and the announcement of our
ground breaking partnership with Louis Vuitton on the Sewelô in January," said Eira
Thomas, Lucara's CEO.
Guests at the 73rd annual British Academy Film Awards in
London were asked to make “sustainable” fashion choices
by hiring or rewearing their fashionable outfits.
Thankfully most guests already had a sustainable stash of
Tiffany, Harry Winston and Cartier, so their second-hand
gowns still glittered.
The Duchess of Cambridge wore a gold embroidered
gown, previously featured during a 2013 tour of South-
East Asia, along with a Van Cleef& Arpels necklace and
matching earrings.
Charlize Theron may have broken the “rewear” rule with
her choice of an exclusive 14 carat rose gold choker handset
with more than 240 diamonds from the new Tiffany
T1 collection, set to launch in April 2020, and paired with
three sets of Tiffany stud earrings.
Zoe Kravitz nailed the “sustainability” directive with a
warm glowing pair of coral pendant drop earrings, crafted
from ethical and sustainable Sardinian coral by Assael.
Sarah Ferguson to launch lifestyle brand
While the Duke and Duchess of Sussex struggle to
negotiate for approval of their Sussex Royal brand, so
they can sell almost everything without capitalising
on their royal connection, the Duchess of York has
been inspired to do something similar. The former
wife of Prince Andrew is set to launch her own lifestyle
brand, Duchess Inc which will feature everything from
homewares to convenience foods. The brand will
feature an “accessible premium” range of jewellery
which will also be available for purchase through QVC,
an American free-to-air home shopping channel.
Hong Kong trade fair postponed
Two jewellery trade shows due to be held in Hong Kong in March have been postponed
until May due to safety concerns in the wake of the coronavirus epidemic.
The Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, organised by the Hong Kong
Trade Development Council (HKTDC) specialises in showcasing raw materials of the
jewellery trade in special zones such as The Hall of Fine Diamonds, The Treasures of
Nature (coloured gemstones) and Treasures of the Ocean (pearls).
In 2019, the event attracted more than 1,990 international exhibitors along with buyers
from 145 countries. Now in its seventh year, it was intended to be held concurrently
with the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, yet they have now been postponed
until May 18-21. They will still be held concurrently at the AsiaWorld Expo.
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jewellery world - March 2020

News
Diamonds rule at the Oscars
Iconic jewellery designers were well represented on the
red carpet at the Academy Awards – with the work of
Harry Winston, Cartier, Bulgari and Chopard all featured.
Double nominee Scarlett Johannsen wore $2.5 million
worth of Forevermark diamonds in an understated style,
with just earrings and a bracelet, yet no necklace with her
strapless dress.
In contrast, presenter Zazie Beetz wore a spectacular
white gold Bulgari High Jewelry necklace set with an oval
emerald, 84 buff top emeralds and pave-set diamonds,
along with matching emerald and diamond earrings and
ring.
Actress Mindy Kaling wore several Chopard jewels
including a necklace with 78.46 crats of marquise-cut
diamonds and 46.33 carats of round-shaped diamonds in
white gold along with earrings from the Haute Joaillerie
collection.
Director Greta Gerwig also wore Bulgari emeralds, with
a classic High Jewelry platinum necklace featuring seven
emerald beads, 14 pear diamonds and 32 round diamonds
and pave-set diamonds.
Beat your mug with ... diamonds
Actor Tomothee Chalamet
also dazzled, wearing a Cartier
brooch on his navy blazer, while
other male stars such as Antonio
Banderas and Rami Malek
focusing their style on their
time pieces – Banderas wore
an understated slimline Bulgari Octo Finissimo and
Malek wore a vintage-style Pasha de Cartier watch.
There is a new spin on the old line “diamonds are forever” – now diamond facials
are being promoted as the latest anti-ageing product.
Some cosmetic companies are marketing a facial scrub containing diamond dust
or diamond ash, which presumably works as the magic ingredient to smooth,
brighten and rejuvenate the skin. Other options include a non-invasive cosmetic
procedure using a diamond-tipped tool to cleanse and exfoliate the skin.
If diamond face cream isn’t decadent (ridiculous?) enough, powdered pearls are
also popular cosmetic products, believed to regenerate the skin and boosting
elasticity. Gold face masks are also available, involving 24-karat gold leaf
massaged onto the skin so the antioxidant properties can eliminate toxins and
fight sun damage.
Rickshaw driver returns diamonds
A woman from the city of Pune in western
India is thankful for the honesty of her rickshaw
driver, after she left a bag containing diamond
jewellery valued at AU$14,000 in his vehicle
after a shopping trip with her daughter.
After dropping her daughter at a bus stop,
Shobha Sandeep Lunkad alighted the vehicle
at her son’s office, forgetting to take the bag
which contained a diamond bracelet and
earrings along with clothing from the shopping
trip. She immediately notified police, but while
they were questioning autorickshaw drivers,
Lundak’s driver voluntarily brought the bag to
the police station.
The police were also so impressed by the
integrity of driver Tukaram Yadavrao Kale, they
held a function in his honour at the police
station the next evening.
Facebook launches a Pinterest clone
Coz we all need yet another social media app in
our lives... Released in a small number of countries
so far but bound to spread if it succeeds, Hobbi
is Facebook’s latest attempt to ensure total world
domination. Aimed at hobbyists, but likely to be useful
for jewellers because of its project-based nature, the
app can assemble boards in a similar way to Pinterest.
Google also
recently released a
similar app called
Tangi. Both apps
point to a return
to the original
‘feelz’ behind
Instagram—
genuine stories
and personal
development.
People are still
searching for stuff
that makes them feel good. Inspirational jewellery
designs that reach out to desires might just be well
suited to these new apps.
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jewellery world - March 2020

News
The Cartiers is packed with lessons
A fascinating read for anyone in the industry, The
Cartiers by Francesca Cartier Bricknell is the story of
the family behind the brand and the three brothers
who turned their grandfather’s humble jewellery
store into a global luxury icon.
From revolutionary France to the 1960s, at the
heart of the tale are the three Cartier men whose
motto was “Never copy, only create” — a mantra
that is especially relevant to jewellers and designers
today. The trials of running a family business are also
examined. In the case of the Cartiers, the brothers
succeeded because of their individual strengths.
Louis was a visionary designer who took the helm in
Paris, Pierre was the master dealmaker who bought
the New York headquarters on Fifth Avenue for a double-stranded natural pearl
necklace, and Jacques headed the London operation and travelled the globe using
his gemstone knowledge to secure the best in rubies, emeralds and sapphires
from India.
Author Francesca Cartier Brickell is the great grand-daughter of the youngest of
the brothers, and, after discovering a trunk in her grandfather’s attic packed with
sketchbooks and correspondence, has spent the intervening ten years working
on the history of her family and one of the world’s greatest brands. Her research
reveals never-before-told dramas, romances, intrigues, betrayals, and more.
The book takes a behind-the-scenes view at some of the most iconic pieces of
jewellery—from the cursed Hope Diamond, the emeralds of the Russian Czars and
the classic panther pieces, to the legends of film and fashion who wore them—
Wallis Simpson, Coco Chanel, Elizabeth Taylor, Indian maharajas and Russian grand
duchesses.
The company survived two world wars and the Great Depression of the 1930s
and has continued to succeed since being sold to Richemont in 1964. The book
examines the values the company’s founders held that were essential to the
brand’s success and makes compelling reading for anyone interested in jewellery,
marketing and branding.
The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewellery Empire is
published by Ballantine Books and is available from all online bookstores.
Gold hits a 7-year high
The spot price of gold hasn’t been higher in seven
years. As of the final week of February, gold was
trading at US$1,621 per ounce, a level last seen in
2013.
Analysts expect the upward trend to continue
blaming negative real interest rates, unsteady world politics and
the threat of virus. Experts at Citibank predicted last year that gold
India’s first carbon-neutral diamond
company
Star Rays, a De Beers sightholder and one of India’s
leading diamond companies, is taking steps to become
the country’s first carbon-neutral diamond trader.
Working with carbon consultancy, Carbon Expert,
Star Rays is committing to the World Jewellery
Confederation’s (CIBJO) greenhouse gas measuring and
offsetting programme.
“Global warming and climate change have come to the
fore as a key issue in sustainable development,” said
Star Rays partner Jitesh Shah in a statement. “Every
human activity in the world releases carbon dioxide.
We are committed to reducing carbon emissions at
every step in our business and personal life.”
The company
added in a
statement,
“The natural
diamond
industry
is moving toward a carbon-neutral future, with an
increased use of renewable energy sources in various
mines.”
Star Rays runs a manufacturing facility in Surat, India
that turns out 60,000 cut and polished solitaires each
year. Since 2019, the company also owns a subsidiary
company in Gaborone, Botswana.
Major brands around the world are committing to
become carbon-neutral following CIBJO’s lead. Pandora
has announced its intension to reach a carbonneutral
target by 2025, while lab-grown diamond
producer Diamond Foundry has already been certified
carbon-neutral.
De Beers also has a five year target for its mining
sector after the development of technology that allows
carbon capture and storage in the kimberlite, the rock
that natural diamonds are extracted from.
would reach US$2,000 over the following two
years, but have now adjusted the short-term
forecast saying they expect it to reach US$1,700
in the next six months.
Jewellers in America report the market in
‘trade-in’ gold is heating up again.
10
jewellery world - March 2020

News
2020 CIBJO Congress set for Dubai
CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, will hold its 2020 annual congress in
Dubai, United Arab Emirates (UAE), from October 5 to October 7.
The 2020 congress will be hosted by DMCC (Dubai Multi-Commodities Centre),
one of the world’s leading free zones, which is tasked by the Government of Dubai
Authority to drive commodities trade and enterprise. With more than 17,000
businesses registered, DMCC sits at the heart of the region’s growing jewellery trade,
and is home to the Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE), the only World Federation of
Diamond Bourses (WFDB) accredited bourse in the Arabian Gulf.
It is the second time that a CIBJO Congress will have taken place in Dubai, with the
first being held there in 2008, when it also was hosted by DMCC.
CIBJO congresses serve as the official gathering place for the World Jewellery
Confederation’s Assembly of Delegates.
Almas Tower, the headquarters of DMCC in the heart of Dubai,
selected as the venue for 2020 CIBJO Congress.
They are also the venue for the annual meetings of CIBJO’s sectoral commissions, where amendments can be introduced to the organisation’s
definitive directories of international industry standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, gem labs, precious metals, coral and
responsible sourcing, known as the Blue Books.

PALLOYS POINTS
Chris Botha,
Operations Manager, Jewellery Division
Palloys
TRUE INNOVATION
IN DESIGN
Is there truly any diversity in the commercial jewellery market,
outside of the non-traditional jewellers who have achieved a solid
business base?
Consumers have come to expect that
they will not see anything new or
different at the jewellery store and
instead simply see a new iteration of an
existing design.
The focus these days seems to be on price
differentiation through online vs bricks and
mortar.
The jewellery industry has a jewellery
manufacturing sector that does not innovate
beyond the known selling factors, the metal,
the stones and the labour. Whereas the “art”
jewellery sector, while smaller, is constantly
innovating. The dominant focus of the
jewellery manufacturing sector has been to
reduce the production costs of existing known
sellers.
Having worked in many jewellery
manufacturing plants around the world, I
have witnessed the bare minimum in design
processes taking place, with little evident
innovation., Over the last 30 years I still see
the exact same designs returning seasonally.
What is noted is that variants of the same
process occur, jewellers are finding a “new”
design concept, meaning they are finding
a new way to set a stone, a better colour
combination and are modifying it from the
original copy by producing it in a sellable price
point which creates the “mini-fads” that are
born each year.
When a jeweller bases their designs at a low
price point, we find a way to use the minimum
gold and diamonds and won’t consider that
a much more substantial and striking piece
can be produced in a non-precious material
instead. Some jewellers are now incorporating
elements like carbon fibre or even wood
in their product, but the essential shapes
12
jewellery world - March 2020

and designs are still
limited to classic sellers,
these parts then also
negatively impacted
by the stigma of being
non-precious, reducing
pricing even more.
If all the products in the
market are essentially the
same, then the only thing any
customer will care about is
price. Once customers only
care about price, the market
starts bleeding value.
The process in mass manufacturing is even less exciting, all the
brochures from every jeweller in the world will be torn up and
categorised into groupings of colour and price point, common
threads in the groupings will be ascertained and “designers” then
produce Nth iterations for the next season.
Here’s a simple rule about market value to consider: If all the
products in the market are essentially the same, then the only
thing any customer will care about is price. Once customers
only care about price, the market starts bleeding value. What is
left after this occurs? Simply the sum of the parts; in this case,
the market value of the gemstones and precious metals. After
that, returning the market to a state of added value is extremely
painful, if not impossible, selling compiled materials is a sale
on the components plus a mark-up, when you sell design, the
components are the least of the price, the novelty, originality,
exclusivity are the selling points.
Palloys has partnered with some amazing jewellery innovators
over the years and supported them through the Palloys range of
services, harnessing a jeweller’s ability to design and innovate.
Over the next few months Palloys will be undergoing some
structural changes, adding additional services and products, truly
making Palloys the one source for all your jewellery needs.
LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY
www.ikecho.com.au | enquiries@ikecho.com.au

DOES LOYALTY EXIST?
An old-fashioned concept, loyalty is critical in any successful
industry. But are we doing enough to nurture loyalty in ours?
I
I think we first need to ask ourselves what
our definition of loyalty in the diamond
and jewellery space is today. The simple
definition of loyalty is a feeling of strong
support or allegiance.
I heard a quote many years ago that said:
“Business must be run at a profit or
else it will die. However, a business run
solely for profit will also die.”
Much of our trade is made up of small and
medium sized businesses, which could not
survive without long-standing relationships
and the loyalty that comes with them.
My problem is that in the last few weeks, I
have heard so many different instances of
long-standing business relationships in our
industry which have been destroyed in an
instant. The sad part is that both parties (or
one party) failed to stop and think about all
the favours, special instances of pricing or
express posting urgent items etc that may
have been provided in the past, only to have
one mistake on an invoice result in a 10 year
relationship being chucked out the window.
One example that was recently shared with
me was that of a local diamond wholesaler
who brought an error made on an invoice to a
retailer’s attention. The wholesaler was simply
brushed off by the retailer and told to wear
it. Needless to say that was the end of that
relationship. Do we really have so little respect
for each other? Are we oblivious to the age
old saying “what goes around comes around”?
I will share with you three strategies by which
I live by.
1. Treat everyone the same way that you
want to be treated.
We can all make mistakes. Before you cut
someone off, don’t act impulsively, even if
you’re really angry and frustrated. Tell them
you want to think about it for a day or two.
This gives yourself the time needed to think
through how best to deal with it. You might
even want to ask others, which goes to my
second strategy.
2. Never make important decisions when
you’re angry.
You never know when you need someone
again in the future. Let’s say a merchant sold
you a stone and the invoice showed a price
that was a few thousand dollars less than what
14
jewellery world - March 2020

DDCA NEWS
Rami Baron
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia
rami@ddca.org.au
it should have been. Yes, you sold the stone in
good faith based on the invoice and in many
cases, you didn’t check it further. You based
your mark-up on the cost of the stone. Now
the merchant comes back and says I made a
mistake, I sold it to you below my cost, can we
do something about it? Many retailers would
say tough luck, that’s your problem. However,
those who have a relationship of trust and one
of loyalty, might end up expressing the same
thoughts but in a different manner – “give me
a day or two to think about it, I might not be
able to help you out on this one, I’ll get back
to you”.
The bottom line is that even if you chose not
to do anything different, you at least validated
the relationship and your loyalty means you
didn’t destroy it in a moment of frustration,
with no compassion for the error on the other
side. The fact that that you were prepared to
take the time and consider how you may be
able to help is sometimes all that’s needed.
3. Your reputation is never measured by
what people say to you face-to-face, it’s how
they talk about you when you’re not there.
As much as you may think suppliers don’t
speak to each other, they do far more than
you realise. They will repeat the stories of
those who burnt them and acted in a manner
which showed no loyalty and respect.
I was speaking to a very successful diamond
retailer who was describing to me his early
experience when he set up the business. The
previous owner of the business had significant
business debts. So when the current owner
bought this existing business, suppliers were
reluctant to give them credit.
He went to one local diamond wholesaler
who accepted that he didn’t have to be
responsible for the previous owner’s
mistakes and extended credit to him. Today,
this retailer could purchase all his diamonds
direct from India, but in his own words he
stated:
“This local wholesaler backed me when no
one else would. I’m a very loyal sort of guy,
no National matter what I Wine buy from Centre overseas, I will
always support this local wholesaler with a
Adelaide
percentage of my purchases.”
17th - 18th July 2020
There is no doubt that due to the
Networking | Training | Expert Advice | Business
competitive nature of the world we are
This in, Industry we will first look event to source will give you many the products resources
and network, so that you can concentrate on
overseas. However, what the world is
providing your customers with beautiful
experiencing jewellery today experiences. with the coronavirus
means that you may not always be able to
www.JewelleryIndustrySummit.com
source overseas. So how do you want local
businesses to survive?
I’m not suggesting for one moment you
need to be a charity, but I believe that one
can have more open and frank discussions
with local suppliers as to how one can
work together, play to their strengths and
find ways that they can future proof your
business and still be competitive.
There is a wonderful initiative happening
in July, and that is the Jewellery Industry
Summit in Adelaide.
It’s a space where people from the trade
can meet, share ideas, learn new things and
National Wine Centre
Adelaide
17th - 18th July 2020
Networking | Training | Expert Advice | Business
This Industry first event will give you the resources
and network, so that you can concentrate on
providing your customers with beautiful
jewellery experiences.
www.JewelleryIndustrySummit.com
17 - 18 July 2020
Networking | Training | Expert Advice |
Business
www.JewelleryIndustrySummit.com
hopefully talk about the local suppliers that
they use who have stood by them over the
years and come highly recommended.
We are an industry. We need to act like one.
Just like loyalty needs to be earned, it needs
to be treasured and respected, rather than be
taken for granted.
I do believe that loyalty is a quality that most
Aussies pride themselves on, even those of
us who came from wide and far identified this
quality in Australia from an early age. Let’s
treasure it and not take it for granted.
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.
March 2020 15

PRESIDENT'S
MESSAGE
Jo Tory
The Age of Trust
The term ”fake news” has become
almost synonymous with online
media these past few years. Intense
discussions have emerged, both online and
offline, revolving around what is truth, what is
fiction and all that exists in between.
Such is the growing concern over the
prevalence of fake news, that in 2017,
following hot on the heels of the UK
Parliament, our federal politicians called for
an inquiry into the phenomenon of fake news
in Australia. Social media platforms are no
longer just about self expression and benign
communication, they’ve now become our
primary source of news. However, with the
proliferation of 24/7 online news content,
it’s now more difficult than ever to maintain
authenticity and accountability, particularly
as social media has been found to be so
vulnerable to distortions; hearsay and
rumours are increasingly digested as fact.
Only a few months into the new year, the
coronavirus—now officially known as COVID-
19—has resulted in tragedy in countries
across the globe and has, understandably,
taken over the majority of online media
bandwidth. For many, it’s already entirely
re-shaped the 2020 calendar and economic
outlook, with travel restrictions in place
and international trade fairs either being
re-scheduled or cancelled completely.
Strangely, the coronavirus has brought
questions of trust and accountability to the
forefront. This crisis transcended geographical
boundaries quickly, becoming a global concern
overnight, requiring a co-operative and
transparent exchange between countries. As
many continue to question the international
response to the virus and the accuracy of
media reporting, it has served to highlight the
fragile nature of the trust that exists between
countries and the communities that comprise
them.
One of the major contentions is that a growing
number of media sources are no longer
impartial. And, in this climate, the need
and demand for unprejudiced information
is perhaps higher than ever before. The
jewellery industry is not immune from this
demand either. The JAA receives multiple
inquires each day from consumers seeking
advice and information free from bias. Often
they come to the JAA because they feel out of
their depth, unable to discern fact from fiction
in the jewellery world. They come to the JAA
because they view it as an impartial, neutral,
authoritative; a source of trustworthy advice.
Our mediation service takes some of the
high emotions out of conflicts, helping to
reinstate trust between our members and
consumers; all parties feel heard and are
a part of the mutually beneficial solutions
that emerge. At times we are unable to help
because the store in question is not a JAA
member. The consumer often laments, “I
wish I had shopped with a JAA jeweller, then
I wouldn’t be in this situation.” The JAA is
working towards increasing public awareness
of JAA members as a part of its ‘network
of trust’. Widely promoting our code of
conduct, which sets out the highest standards
currently available in the jewellery industry,
ensuring maximum protection for jewellery
buying consumers and, importantly, jewellery
retailers. The JAA is proud to offer this service
to both its members and jewellery consumers,
growing and strengthening the trust in our
local jewellery industry.
16
jewellery world - March 2020

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COVID-19 a boost for
Australian manufacturers
The retail and tourism sectors are likely to be hit hard by COVID-19 but the silver
lining will be found in the strength of Australian manufacturers.
The threat of the coronavirus (COVID-
19), in combination with the impact of
the bushfires, is expected to result in a
loss of up to 1.5 million international visitors
to Australia according to a Deloitte Access
Economics report. Around the world, the
virus is having a swift affect on the jewellery
market.
Jewellery giant Pandora has closed around a
third of its stores in mainland China, one of its
top markets, saying that business there has
ground to a halt.
“As I sit here and watch the Chinese business,
it is in a standstill mode, I mean there’s
pennies being sold,” Pandora’s chief executive
officer, Alexander Lacik, told Reuters, as
he described an “unprecedented” drop in
business.
To date, Pandora has closed 70 of its
240 shops in China on the order of the
government and at its remaining ones, mostly
in shopping malls, customer traffic is “next to
none”, according to the brand’s boss.
China is the world’s biggest luxury goods
market and Pandora makes about 10% of
annual sales from Hong Kong, China and its
tourists.
Chow Tai Fook
Jewellery Group,
the world’s
second largest
jewellery chain by
market value after
Tiffany & Co. has
also closed stores
in Hong Kong
and Tiffany has
closed outlets in
mainland China.
Manufacturing in
mainland China
has slowed as
the government
there orders closures of factories and millions
of workers are restricted from travelling.
The impact on supply lines is yet to fully play
out, but at the recent Inhorgenta Munich
fair in Germany, many brands were revealing
difficulties in obtaining stock - a situation that
can only flow through to retailers.
The silver lining in a worryingly dark cloud
is the strength of the Australian jewellery
manufacturing sector. Opting for Australianmade
is more important than ever and we
are lucky to have local companies who are
able to swiftly turn around high-quality and
cost-effective product.
Manufacturers who have seen customers
leave them for cheaper overseas
competitors are likely to welcome them
back to place orders in the coming weeks.
Keeping Australian retail windows wellstocked
during a global crisis is one of the
strengths of our tight-knit industry.
18
jewellery world - March 2020

By Stefan Juengling
Uberkate
Najo
Uberkate
TOP TIPS ON HOW TO
MAXIMISE SALES
THIS MOTHER’S DAY
Mother’s Day is just around the corner, and these couple of months leading up to the
big day presents a huge opportunity for jewellers and wholesalers to help customers
connect more with the gift that will leave the biggest impression: jewellery. With expert
input from Najo, Ice Jewellery Australia and Uberkate, we break down the knowledge,
strategies and advice you can take to make the most of Mother’s Day.
Ice Jewellery
Start marketing early to make it a
great Mother’s Day
Najo
If you’ve got pieces you think mothers will
love, it’s time to start marketing to the sons
and daughters out there looking for such
a gift. Najo offers such a large range of
pieces across multiple collections,
that CEO Jo Tory said her team
compiles curated edits
to make it easy
for each of
their customer
groups to find
that perfect gift.
Uberkate
“They are listed on our website and
of course promoted through our
other communication channels
like social media and eDM
(electronic direct marketing),”
she said.
“As a little something extra, the additional
value that ‘Gifts with Purchase’ bring is always
something that our customers appreciate.”
Mother’s Day is
the second biggest
event of the year at
Uberkate (the first
being Christmas), and
in order to prepare,
company founder and
designer Kate Sutton
said they dedicate a
huge amount of time,
energy and creativity
on it.
“We increase our
social media contact
and we utilise our
database to keep everyone in
the loop at such a special
time,” she said.
“We have lots of firsttime
mums buying
their first personalised
Uberkate circles (Ubercircles: Uberkate’s
signature piece)and many partners
surprising their wives, girlfriends and partners
with a handwritten piece of jewellery.”
Najo
20
jewellery world - March 2020

TO THE BEST MUM,
Happy Mother’s Day!
Najo
The types of jewellery mothers want
As for the types of jewellery sons and daughters like to buy their mothers,
personalised pieces are all the rave for our respondents. Jo said that
Najo offers their SIGNA range of engravable jewellery as ideal gifts for
Mother’s Day, which allow customers to preview and order a custom
engraving with their choice of font.
“There are several different sterling silver pieces with varying engraving
areas, including everything from small charms for initials to bigger pieces
that can fit their whole name,
or even the names of their
children,” she said.
“As each inscription is
bespoke, a piece from the
SIGNA range is a truly unique
gift.”
MOTHER’S DAY SPECIAL
Director of Ice Jewellery
Online Simon Molnar also
praised personalised jewellery
as sentimental pieces ideal for
Mother’s Day gifts.
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Uberkate
“Pieces such as lockets, name
necklaces and inspirational
pieces such as family tree necklaces
or engravable pieces; these are dateless
and mothers love to keep their loved
ones close to their heart,” he said.
Uberkate offers a “your script” service,
in which they use client’s handwriting or
drawings done by their children to engrave on
the piece, and Kate said this service is hugely
popular for Mother’s Day.
“It takes personalisation to the next level
and having received a cuff with 12 years of
my own children’s handwritten messages
engraved on it (cleverly organised by my own
hubby!) I know what it
feels like to open
that box and see
their gorgeous
messages of love to
me engraved into
precious metal,”
she said.
Apart from that, Kate said their signature
Ubercircles are very popular during Mother’s
Day, as are their newer gemstone cocktail
rings.
Why jewellery makes an ideal gift
Uberkate
Kate said mothers love receiving
jewellery as a gift because it’s so
personal and it’s a symbol that
is worn and can be seen.
“It’s a symbol that shows
someone has been thinking
about you and of course women
Uberkate
LOVE wearing jewellery and even more so if it
has a story attached to it,” she said.
Jo offered similar sentiments, stating that
jewellery is a timeless gift that speaks to their
individual style, and that jewellery that’s gifted
during special occasions like Mother’s Day will
always hold sentimental value.
Simon said that the mother-child relationship
is one of the heart, and so giving and receiving
jewellery is an emotional gift.
Najo
Advice for other businesses
wanting big Mother’s Day sales
When asked about what advice she would give
to other jewellers to make it a big Mother’s
Day, Kate said you should prepare early and
make sure you merge your online and
offline offers.
22
jewellery world - March 2020

“Use your social
media platforms
to drive clients into your stores, give people
a reason to come into store and think multichannel
always,” she said.
Najo
“The world is now online and offline and we all need
to use all platforms available to us to connect with our
clients in multiple ways.”
As for the product side of things, Kate recommends
businesses should launch valued products that have a story and
have something ‘extra’ about them.
“It’s not enough to just launch products, consumers need to
connect with products and connect with a brand to want to wear
what they craft.”
Jo stressed the importance of marketing suitable pieces for your
clientele.
“Curate a small Mother’s Day collection to offer, keeping in mind
the suitability for gifts for mothers of all ages, with a variety of
attractive price points,” she said.
Simon said that if jewellers want to take advantage of Mother’s
Day, they should not make the customers hunt for ideal Mother’s
Day gifts.
“Put these pieces front and centre to make it easy for your
customer to find,” he said.
“Remove anything that is not relevant to Mother’s Day like gents
jewellery.”
Uberkate

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Jewellery World supporting suppliers to
support retail jewellery businesses
Jewellery World Magazine hasn’t become the market leader simply by luck. Our knowledge,
experience and willingness to go the extra mile for both sellers and buyers has earned us the
number one position in the Australian and New Zealand jewellery industry media.
Jewellery World launched a new jewellery
pavilion inside the AGHA fair this February
21st-24th at Olympic Park with 16
exhibitors. These 16 companies used the fair
to reach out to their customers and bring a
better service and connection at a tough time
of the year. With all that is happening around
the world, it has never been so important
to connect with local suppliers to help your
business.
According to AGHA’s official figures, the fair
was a solid success across the entire giftware
sector, but of course, our focus is on jewellery
and many have been curious as to how a
jewellery pavilion would fare inside a wideaspect
tradeshow.
The answer is a resounding ‘very well.’
Jewellery suppliers in the pavilion saw a
busy four days with good traffic and very
satisfactory sales. As a whole, the group is
Winner of the lab-grown diamond tennis
bracelet Roula Nicolacopoulos of Diann
Darling Jewellers, Engadine NSW.
keen to repeat the experience in Melbourne in
August, and the pavilion is, of course, open to
any other companies who may be interested
in joining.
Our favourite comment from a participating
supplier was “This takes me back to how
we used to do the fairs and it’s been a great
success for us.” Other exhibitors were equally
happy. “Let’s get booking in for the Melbourne
August fair and next year here at Olympic
Park,” said one, while others added, “Can’t
wait to see how Melbourne goes,” and “There
were a couple of dead spots but all in all it was
very successful for us.”
And that was the point of the whole exercise
- to help jewellery businesses with better
business opportunities. “Thank you for
organising it - it was a great success for us,”
and “Thanks for all your help, the event ran
really well.” Comments like this make it all
worthwhile.
Visitors pleased with
a dedicated jewellery
space
The pavilion saw a great
deal of visitors both from
mixed-product retailers as
well as jewellery retailers.
Jewellery retailers in
particular found the
pavilion and the fair as a
whole a very worthwhile
experience and easier to
get to than other locations.
Hannes Coetsee of Leading Edge Group
“We loved the fair and felt it was much better
at Homebush with better layout and choice
of jewellery. The free parking was great too
and easy access,” said Helen from Advance
Jewellers who travelled from the ACT to
attend.
Tim from Facet Jeweller in Cockburn Gateway,
WA was initially concerned at how a jewellery
pavilion would sit in a general gift fair. “I didn’t
expect a lot of jewellery as a first time but I
was not disappointed,” he said, acknowledging
the wide range and quality of suppliers in the
pavilion.
It was great to see so many retailers who are
buying group members at the fair, reminding
us that our industry is really one big family.
Events like this help strengthen ties between
26
jewellery world - March 2020

the various strands of our industry and the atmosphere was friendly,
busy and enjoyable.
“As I was in Sydney I visited the fair and it was beneficial for me to meet
the suppliers and plan the year ahead with them, so I used the fair to
help strategise for the year. It was successful for me,” said Stephen from
Stephens Jewellery in Shepparton, Victoria, a Showcase member.
ATHAN
IMPORTERS OF
FINE ITALIAN
JEWELLERY
18CT SPECIALISTS
The companies to be commended for taking the first steps in this revival
of a mixed fair are: A M Imports, Australian Precious Stones, Bead Them
Up, Bolton Gems, Cocktail Jewellery, Diva Designs, Duraflex Group,
Graham Cohen, Ikecho, Jewellery Centre, KL Diamonds, Oblo Jewellery,
Pastiche, Searay, Sparkle Impex, TJD Silver. With more exhibitors looking
to join in for the Melbourne fair we are looking to secure a good position
for the Jewellery World Pavilion at the Melbourne fair this 1-5 August.
ANGER
And The Winner Is...
The raffle for the 5.5ct lab-grown tennis bracelet donated by Craig Miller
of JC Jewels, was drawn at 1pm on the last day of the fair by Hannes
Coetsee from Leading Edge Group and went to Roula Nicolacopoulos
of Diann Darling Jewellers in Engadine NSW, a member of Nationwide
buying group.
We spoke to Roula about the fair and her winnings:
“Lab Grown is something I have been pondering for some time so
winning the bracelet will give me a chance to have a look and make
some decisions for the future. Thank you, Craig at JC Jewells, for
donating the bracelet to the fair.
“I do normally come to the gift fair and originally started because I used
to visit Pandora. I find new trends there and keep an eye on the market
as a whole and to be honest I was surprised to see so many jewellers
there, especially Sparkle Impex and Bolton Gems, whom I do business
with. I was concerned that they may sell to gift people but am totally
happy if they do even if it is twice a year, so long as they do at retail
prices with a small discount so as not to cheapen the industry.
“Christmas was ordinary for us but I always try to make the store look
nice with new product as there has been a shift on spending habits.
People come in all year round and buy big pieces although not as many
as Thomas Sabo or Pandora which sell pretty well throughout the year.
“It is great to get some nice pieces in new at the start of the year as I
always keep stocks up all year round with great product to entice my
customers. I support the companies that support Nationwide hence I
spent quite a lot with them at the fair.”
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By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
Peter W Beck
MAKING OUT
Manufacturing the jewellery we love
Technology allows traditional bench jewellers and manufacturing firms alike to play a
role in the customer’s ever-growing love affair with custom-made jewellery.
Technology is bringing a new versatility
and efficiency to the jewellery
industry, streamlining age-old creative
techniques and expanding the essential
network of customers and colleagues. As
customers become more independent
about the designs they prefer and more
environmentally conscious, many of today’s
designers do a steady trade of remodelling
work and custom designs.
Today, even smaller jewellery businesses have
the freedom to experiment with innovative
designs while building an international
customer base.
Expanding creativity
In 1978, Peter W Beck made a huge
technological investment in his jewellery
business, travelling to Milan to buy a rolling
mill, so the company could create its own
sheet and wire. This purchase was an
important step forward for the company,
enabling them to expand their product range
and keep up with the growing customer
demand.
Peter maintained his keen eye for innovation,
and was quick to recognise the potential for
CAD/CAM when the technology was still very
new to the jewellery industry.
Around 15 years ago, the company made
their first investment into CAD and 3D printing
Deer Honey Jewellery
technologies, and today Peter W Beck is an
established provider of CAD/CAM services for
manufacturing and retail jewellers throughout
Australia and New Zealand.
CAD/CAM is particularly beneficial when
crafting complex, specialist pieces of jewellery,
as it reduces the time and cost involved in
creating a piece traditionally. This gives the
designer more freedom to be innovative and
versatile, while the traditional skills of casting
and stone setting are still as valuable as ever.
Peter W Beck
28
jewellery world - March 2020

design, such as a different coloured stone or
alter the design to suit the right hand rather
than the left.
Building a community
Brett Low of Deer Honey Jewellery still draws
his own eclectic jewellery designs to scale,
and while he’s attracted to the potential of
laser technology, he can’t justify the cost right
now. He doesn’t use CAD himself although he
will contract the work out if necessary – his
scale drawings are easy to interpret. For
Brett, the most important innovation in the
jewellery industry has been the development
of online platforms, where he can network
with both customers and industry peers.
“Instagram is a fantastic platform for
manufacturers and designers, and
part of our online marketing
is to give people a peek
into our workshop
through videos,”
Brett said.
“Facebook is
also good, but I
find Instagram is
the best platform for
promoting jewellery.”
Deer Honey Jewellery
Deer Honey Jewellery
Customers who see Brett’s jewellery
samples online will request their
own customised “tweak” to the
Alternately, they could pick up ideas for
remodelling an old ring – women who
want to redesign their engagement ring or
an heirloom piece of jewellery will gather
ideas from sites like Deer Honey Jewellery’s
Instagram page before coming to a decision.
The range of gemstone options on display
will fire up a customer’s imagination, so they
think more broadly about cut and colour
when choosing a gemstone for their preferred
design.
Besides expanding his customer base, the
Internet has also made it easier for Brett
to interact with suppliers and contractors.
Brett’s smartphone is an essential work tool,
providing a direct line of contact to people all
around the country and overseas.
“Now platforms can be consolidated so you
only log into one account to reach Instagram
or Facebook or LinkedIn,” he says.
This direct line of contact
streamlines the design
process, whether he
is seeking to find the
right gemstone for a
particular design or the
right contractor to help
him complete a commission
efficiently.
Brett has also found that the Internet provides
the opportunity for jewellery experts to
share their wisdom or ask for guidance. He
helps run a Facebook group called The Young
Jewellers Group, which is dedicated to provide
a friendly and accessible community resource
for people in the jewellery trade, where they
can share their skills and expertise or ask
questions from experts in the field.
Technology as a tool
Benjamin Ryan Jewellery
Benjamin Ryan Jewellery caters to customers
who specifically want traditionally handcrafted
pieces, although Ben says that new technology
does play an important role in the business.
“I prefer to handmake jewellery and will
always keep that as the focus of my business.
I do use CAD, laser and wax casting when
needed. I think people can sometimes
become a little lazy with new technology,
but it has opened
up a lot of other
amazing areas
where we
can push the
boundaries of
design.”
While Ben is
concerned there
may eventually be a
slump in traditional
skills, he knows
Peter W Beck
others have held this
fear in the past, and the quality of handmade
jewellery always has its place.
“Old jewellers have always said to me that
when wax casting became more prominent,
Peter W Beck
March 2020 29

Benjamin Ryan Jewellery
Benjamin Ryan Jewellery
they were worried it would replace old
manufacturing skills. But as we have seen,
it hasn’t. I think wax carving is an excellent
skill when working alongside traditional
manufacturing techniques.”
Ben has seen more of a resurgence with
handmade, along with a push from customers
to have something handmade or remade.
“A lot of people love seeing the process and
their pieces evolving from start to finish,” he
said.
Ben has found that lasers are particularly
beneficial and cost-effective.
“Time and price point are always important
factors, and there is a huge price difference
between laser engraving compared to
traditional engraving. Laser welding can
be fantastic for repairing those almost
unrepairable nightmare jobs, and they are also
a great help in tacking pieces into place before
soldering, or getting into those hard-to-reach
places, especially if some components are
pre-set before assembly.”
Balancing modern and traditional
Ironically, the expanding market of discerning
customers seeking customised jewellery has
also driven the push for independent jewellers
to embrace technological advances. The
result is a commitment to nurture traditional
methods, combined with a reliance on
modern innovations to streamline production,
so jewellers can meet time and money
constraints.
Benjamin Ryan Jewellery
Ciufoli unveils luxury Adelaide boutique
Italian jewellery brand, Ciufoli, led by Australian designer Giacomo, has
opened their first private boutique in Adelaide, Australia.
Ciufoli curates truly unique collections of high-end jewellery for the
luxury and bridal markets.
The unveiling of their first boutique is timed to coincide with the
launch of Cuifoli’s latest bridal and engagement collection – Segreto.
With this collection, Ciufoli says, the brand extends an invitation for
brides to be both delicate and bold, because like the heroines of
timeless love stories, real beauty is often found in rareness.
“At Ciufoli, rings are forged from the fire of fairytales,” says the
company in a recent release.
Led by Adelaide born creative director,
Giacomo Ciufoli, 27, the Segreto Collection
celebrates the unique nature of two souls
coming together. Giacomo notes that ‘Many
brands choose to propose the one jewel to an
array of men or women; I’d rather propose a
different one to each individual.
“Segreto”
Floating 4ct marquise diamond
and blue sapphire ring
30 jewellery world - March 2020
“I believe that
every man and
woman should
be given the
opportunity
and freedom
to choose to be
themselves, to be
unique. It is this
belief that inspires
a collection to
have an element
Ciufoli Adelaide Boutique
of customisable freedom whilst still being visibly anchored to the one
origin, through a uniquely identifiable aesthetic.”
Every ring in the collection is made-to-order in Italy within 4-6 weeks.
The collection can be viewed by appointment at the new boutique
in Adelaide.

KL DIAMONDS
THE JEWELLER’S WORKSHOP
To see just how much goes on behind the scenes at KL Diamonds is surprising.
A showroom and workshop are nestled behind lacquered wooden doors
adorned with impeccably polished brass in the heart of Sydney’s CBD.
Kalleh Levonian is the director of KL
Diamonds and joined the family business
more than 20 years ago. The company’s
large showroom and adjacent workshop
operates on the fifth floor of the Trust
Building, overlooking Sydney’s Martin Place
with neighbourly views of Chanel and Dior.
Hermes will be joining in the next few weeks,
just underneath KL Diamonds.
Although surrounded
by high-end luxury
and glamour,
Levonian is always
focused and
dedicated to the
fundamentals of
making jewellery;
the highest quality
craftsmanship
and using superb
materials. His workshop is buzzing with
a multitude of activities, all happening
simultaneously. Diamond setting, assembling
of raw castings, remodelling and repairs of
much-loved pieces. Polishing and rhodium
plating are also done in-house.
Levonian says quality and speed are the words
he chooses to describe his approach to the
workshop.
“It’s so important to me that the quality is high
and our clients are happy. We see ourselves
as an extension to their own workshop. They
come to us for our quick turnaround times
and the quality of our work.”
As the company motto goes, "We are your
workshop."
As well as the manufacturing service, KL
Diamonds also stocks the largest range of
Argyle pinks, champagnes and whites. Whilst
32
jewellery world - March 2020

the Argyle pinks are still very popular, the Argyle white
diamond is where the focus is at the moment, driven by
demand and signals in the marketplace.
“People are wanting to know the source… the concept of
knowing the exact origin is becoming normalised. Now
people have a strong preference
for Australian diamonds.”
Levonian had launched his
Australian Diamond Valley brand
only mid last year, responding
to the growing demand for
jewellery made completely with
Argyle diamonds.
“Our pieces are completely
Argyle, not a combination
of Argyle diamonds set with
diamonds from another country.
It’s this purity of our product
which attracts consumers.”
As we leave the showroom, Levonian switches gears and is back on the bench with his
team, setting stones for a job that has just come through the door.
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.
Melbourne 3000 Victoria
Millennium Chain
Finished Top 5 in the category of
Best Selling Gold Jewellery Suppliers in
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.
millennium_chain

Winner 2018 Fancy Coloured Award:
Ben Preston-Black Creations Jewellers
Entries are open for the
2020 Diamond Guild Australia
Jewellery Awards
Premier diamond industry association, Diamond Guild Australia, has announced that the Diamond
Guild Australia Jewellery Awards will be held once again in 2020 and is calling for entries from all
jewellers and designers around Australia working within the retail fine jewellery industry.
The Diamond Guild Awards, to be held for the
7th time in 2020, are widely regarded as the
foremost jewellery design event in Australia.
The 2020 competition will test the design and
manufacturing skills of the participants across
6 categories:
Solitaire Diamond Award
The simplest and yet most challenging of
categories – the Solitaire Diamond Jewellery
Award applauds the beauty of the single stone
of any shape showcased in a unique ring
setting. This category is awarded for excellence
in craftsmanship and innovation of design.
Diamonds For Men Award
Always innovative and modern, the Men’s
category is hallmarked by the creative use
of materials to highlight the diamond. This
category celebrates contemporary jewellery
for the design conscious Australian man.
Diamonds For Everyday Award
This award honours jewellery design that is
inspirational and accessible. Entries in this
category can take any form but must be to
the retail value of $6,500 or less. Diamond
jewellery that is wearable, affordable and
stylish.
Emerging Talent Award
The category that celebrates the next
generation of Australian Jewellery Design
talent. Jewellery apprentices and students of
jewellery design are encouraged to test their
skills in this accessible and prestigious award.
For the first time entry to this category in 2020
will require only a hand rendered illustration
of a unique design from which the finalist and
winner will be selected. Entries are to feature
diamonds of any colour and shape inspired by
the robust beauty of Australian nature.
Argyle Australian Fancy Coloured
Diamond Award
As the world bids farewell to the finest
source of fancy coloured diamonds in 2020,
this category celebrates the unique range of
coloured stones sourced from the Australian
Argyle mine. In this category, certified fancy
coloured Argyle stones must represent 70%
or more of the overall diamond content of the
design.
Red Carpet Award
Always highly anticipated and fiercely
contended, the Red Carpet Award honours
the fantasy and glamour of high jewellery.
No limits apply to diamond content, value or
creativity. Think showstopping, trendsetting,
eye-catching design at its best.
From the winning design selected in each
category the Supreme Winner will be awarded
as the pinnacle of design excellence and
craftsmanship in 2020. Representing the best
of diamond jewellery, this award is the most
aspirational and prestigious in Australian
jewellery design today.
Executive Officer of Diamond Guild Australia,
Melissa James confirmed that the Guild and its
members were looking forward to being able
to offer this design event to the wider industry
again in 2020 explaining that supporting and
promoting the jewellery trade was key to the
mission of Diamond Guild Australia.
“We see this competition as the most valuable
way to showcase the amazing talent we have
in Australia to the jewellery loving general
public,” she said.
Early registrations of interest are now open at
www.diamondguild.com.au/awards/awardsregistration.
Full criteria for each category
will be released in March when registered
jewellers and designers will receive an entry
information kit.
34
jewellery world - March 2020

Elodie Daguzan to sit at head of
World Diamond Council
The World Diamond Council has appointed Elodie Daguzan as the
new executive director for the organisation.
As she stepped into the role in
February, Daguzan brought 19 years of
experience to the position. She most
recently served as head of communications
and industry relations at Rubel & Menasche,
a French diamond trading company. Daguzan
has also represented the company at the
World Diamond Council serving as an active
member of the Kimberley Process Task Force.
The WDC, the overarching group that
represents the diamond industry in front of
the Kimberley Process certification scheme, is
facing challenging times as it strives to ensure
consumer confidence in diamonds and meet
the expectations of today’s consumers, says
Daguzan.
In her first blog for the WDC, Daguzan says
“the diamond industry is a business sector
that is special because of the inherently
precious product it deals with, but also
because of the caring people of which it is
comprised.”
She says she is driven by the desire to
advocate for the good that diamonds do.
“But diamonds do not do good, or bad for
that matter, on their own. Individuals do.
Individuals have the power to gather and work
in unison for the betterment of their industry,”
she adds.
“I believe that partnering together, driven by
our common purpose of living up to diamonds
and people, will be the foundation on which
we will keep building a stronger future for our
industry. This is because business is a tale of
encounters and a tale of
connections.”
Daguzan holds a degree
in archaeology from the
Paris-Sorbonne and is a
certified gemmologist,
having studied at the
National Institute of
Elodie Daguzan
Gemmology in Paris and
the Gemmologica Institute of America in New
York.
Daguzan takes over as WDC Executive Director
from Marie-Chantal Kaninda, who stepped
down from the position toward the end of
2019 for a new opportunity in the Democratic
Republic of Congo.
02 - 92690991

KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE
How to make an Eternity Ring
The eternity ring project has been an integral part of apprenticeship
training for generations. It teaches advanced marking and saw piercing
disciplines. Even with the development of modern manufacturing
technologies these skills are still essential for today’s bench jeweller.
The materials used for this lesson is sterling silver 4.5mm x 4.5mm x
37mm and 21 x 2.5mm CZs
1The first stage of the process is to make
a ring blank to specific dimensions. This
should be regarded as a test in itself. Roll
the stock gauge metal to the required
dimensions for the ring blank: 3.8mm wide x
2.6mm thick. The video instructions include
how to use a rolling formula to achieve the
correct measurements. Make sure that the
strip is around 10% over the measurements to
allow for final file up later.
2Anneal before forming into a ring.
Finished finger size for this ring is size
‘O’. Aim to make it one size smaller at
this stage. Be careful not to impress
tool marks as this will affect the finished ring
measurements. Cross the ends over to apply
tension to the joint, then line the ends up.
Ensure that the joint meets perfectly. Flux and
solder using hard grade. Quench and pickle to
remove the oxides.
3Tap the ring with a steel hammer on
a mandrel into a perfect round shape.
Work on the ring until you get it to the
correct finger size. Now file the ring to
the correct measurements and emery finish to
remove tool marks. The video includes useful
filing tips and techniques.
If you file too much off, sorry, but go back to
the start. This is a test.
4
Mark out for 21 stones. This is easier
said than done. Theoretically you could
work out the spacing by dividing the
circumference of the ring by 21 and setting you
dividers to that measurement. The chances of
you successfully marking out 21 perfect spaces
are very slim. So, I advise you to firstly dividing
the ring into three sections, then concentrate
on marking out seven perfectly spaced settings
in each of the three sections.
5Check again that your markings are all
correct. If not, emery the surface again
and restart. Use a set square to scribe
the marking across the ring. Cut the cross
markings in with your piercing saw. Now cut
the side lines in, making sure that you position
your blade so that the lines radiate from the
centre of the ring.
6
When you cut the sides, they should
leave evidence on the inside of the
ring. This will help for marking the
cross lines. Set your dividers to just under
1mm and scribe rails around the inside of the
ring,then carefully join the cross markings
up matching the rail thickness to create a
ladder pattern. The squares should all be the
same size and the frame thickness should be
consistent.
36
jewellery world - March 2020

7
Use a 0.8mm drill to pilot drill all the
sections. Check the inside of the ring
to make sure that the holes are all
centred properly. Open all the settings
out with a 1.2mm drill. If any of the pilot
holes are out, correct them with the second
pass. Treat this exercise as a test for accurate
drilling skills.
8
Use a 1.2mm round bur to countersink
the inside holes. Use a 1.5mm ball
bur to open the top of the settings
and finish off countersinking the top
with a bud or cone bur. This will allow the saw
blade to rotate as you perform the angled back
cutting (Ajour). Before you begin to back cut
the settings, try the technique out on a piece
of scrap metal.
9
Insert a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade into a
setting and begin the cutting work by
angling the blade forwards. This will
help to avoid contact with the top
sides of the ring. Keep the blade moving as you
cut into the two outer corners, then scrape
the blade along the scribe line. Turn the ring
around and re-insert the blade to repeat the
process on the other side. Stay well withing
the scribe lines for you first attempts. You
can perfect the work once you have some
experience.
10
Cutting the cross markings of the
inner squares can be tricky and
may result in some accidental
cuts on the sides of the ring. As
you cut the cross lines of the back holes to a
square shape, pay attention to the top sides of
the ring opposite where you are cutting, this
area should only be contacted by the back of
the blade.
Once you have done all the back cutting, use
a split mandrel with a strip of emery paper to
clean the inside of the ring. This will highlight
any rough spots that may need more trimming.
11are to be cut into castle settings.
Now turn your attention to the top
of the ring. Each of the settings
Set your dividers to half the ring
thickness and scribe a guideline around both
sides. Set your dividers to 1mm and mark off
from the lines at the sides and top of the ring.
Now cut the marks in to at least saw blade
thickness along the top. Angle your blade to
around 45° to cut out the sides of the settings.
Carefully turn the blade and cut across to take
the small sections out.
12
Use your piercing saw as a file
and scrape the cut-out surfaces
until they are neat and tidy. The
assessment of your saw cutting
skills should be done now, before any further
tidying work is carried out.
Finally, you can use a needle file to tidy the
slots. A #12 flat graver with a polished belly will
apply a bright cut finish ready for stone setting.
The video includes various stone setting
techniques for setting a full eternity ring.
Peter Keep is a
master jeweller
and teacher. He
offers structured
online courses
that have helped
thousands of
students around
the world improve
their skills.
Jewellery Training Solutions Courses
Jewellery Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training
service including the very popular Silver Level Apprentice Training
Course where you will find this course.
Check out all the other courses at
www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au
March 2020 37

TIMELESS ELEGANCE
Emile Chouriet takes a page from the golden era of precision chronometry for its latest creation.
Named after the lake that is emblematic of Geneva and shared
between Switzerland and
neighbouring France, the Lac Léman collection pays tribute to
the brand’s founder Emile Chouriet, who left France for Switzerland
during the early years of Swiss watchmaking in the 17th century.
The newest reference in the line, the Lac Léman Classic Chronometer
is a piece that combines timeless elegance with unrelenting precision
in a style that is unmistakably Emile Chouriet.
The polished
40mm steel
case features
Emile Chouriet’s
signature stepped
wing-shaped
lugs, a touch
of whimsical
elegance on
this modern
classic. The dial
is fashioned in
Lac Léman Classic Chronometer EC9312 Automatic Movement COSC
Stainless Steel Case © Emile Chouriet
white lacquer, with elongated slim black Roman numerals for the hour
markers, while the blue hands are a striking accent.
The watch is powered by the EC9312-COSC calibre, an automatic
COSC-certified movement with a guaranteed accuracy of -4 to +6
seconds per day. When fully wound, the movement provides a power
reserve of 42 hours and is visible through the display back.
The Lac Léman Classic has all the makings of a timepiece destined for
those who appreciate the elegant charm of Geneva watchmaking’s
illustrious past, with just the right kind of modern accents to never
feel antiquated.
NEW MEISTERSINGER NEO
MeisterSinger are famous for their single hand watches - but their
newest release adds a new complication - The Neo Pointer Date.
Released at Inhorgenta 2020, the Neo
Pointer Date sticks with MeisterSinger
tradition: a single hand is used to tell the
time, but a second hand is used only to
read the date from a display in the middle
of the dial.
This form of display is a traditional
one for wristwatches, as the date
used to be indicated by a hand at
the center of the dial long before
the first date windows appeared. The
design, which is rare today, follows the
MeisterSinger principle of showing the
moment not as an isolated display but in
context, providing an overview of both the
weekly and the monthly course of events.
The Neo Pointer
Date follows the
classical rule that the
hand for indicating
the longer periods of time, in this case the full days, is the shortest.
The date circle is somewhat recessed and located tightly around the
center of the dial, clearly differentiated from the minute scale and
the hour numerals. Its typography and the small, needle-like hand
are highly typical of MeisterSinger.
Two models in two sizes are available in this new release. The
Neo is 36mm in diameter while the Neo Plus sits in a
40mm case. Available in opaline white and sunburst
blue the models are both powered by a Swiss
automatic movement. Each is stamped with a serial
number and is water resistant to 3 bar.
All models come with a finely meshed milanaise
bracelet and are available from March/April 2020.
38
jewellery world - March 2020

BOLD IN BRONZE
Tag Heuer’s Autavia
reinvented for a
new generation
Longines HydroConquest
A new look in green
Longines’ HydroConquest collection has models
in blue, grey and black but new additions in tones
of green prove that the only thing more alluring
than a blue-faced watch is one in deep green.
The khaki and green models derive
their inspiration from aquatic sports
and the open sea. HydroConquest
timepieces preserve the traditional style
of diving watches, inspired by the unique
requirements of the sport. The distinctive
characteristics of this collection include
water-resistance to 300 metres, a
unidirectional rotating bezel, a screwdown
crown and cast back, crown
protection and a double security folding
clasp with integrated diving extension.
The khaki model features a ceramic bezel insert and is mounted
on a stainless steel or green rubber strap. Available in two sizes
(41 or 43 mm diameter) the piece is powered by a self-winding
mechanical movement.
The green model houses a L888.5 calibre that was designed
exclusively for Longines. The 41mm case comes with an
interchangeable stainless steel bracelet and a green rubber strap.
TAG Heuer has introduced its
legendary Autavia timepiece as
a new stand-alone collection that
boasts the versatility, ruggedness
and reliability that characterised the
original Autavia from 1960.
Two durable and timeless models in noble bronze with a green or
brown colour scheme, powered by the COSC-certified automaticwinding
Calibre 5, are now available in stores and online. The
Autavia in bronze is an ideal choice for explorers who want their watch
to live with them and show off their unique and adventurous lifestyle.
The 42mm watch features a fumé green or brown dial with a
bidirectional rotating ceramic bezel in black or brown, respectively. The
brown model is presented on a brown leather strap, while the green
model features a khaki-coloured leather strap. A tyre and propeller have
been etched into the titanium caseback as a nod to the collection’s rich
heritage and the Autavia’s origin: automobile and aviation.
The most distinguishing feature of the
bronze Tag Heuer Autavia models is the
unique patina that naturally develops
on the bronze case, which will be
different for every watch depending on
the wearer’s habits over time. When
exposed to elements such as water
and air or changes in temperature, the
bronze surface will undergo a process
of oxidation. Starting with a red-brown
colour and then turning a blue or
greenish colour, this colourisation effect
on the metal is completely natural, and
the hue depends on the type of bronze and the
elements it has been exposed to. Every oxidation pattern is unique,
and the wearer is able to make the watch truly their own.
March 2020 39

SEIKO 5 SPORTS
BRIAN MAY LIMITED EDITION
Brian May, musician, singer and songwriter with massive rock band Queen, has
collaborated with Seiko to release a watch celebrating his guitar.
veneer that Brian stained and polished himself. The innovative
tremolo system designed by Brian featured a hand-carved mild steel
rocker plate pivoting on a (literal) knife edge, with the pull of the
strings balanced by motorcycle valve springs. To complete the job, the
tremolo arm was improvised from part of a bicycle saddlebag holder,
capped with a piece of a sturdy knitting needle. The Red Special is
a labour of love that has uniquely served Brian on stage and in the
studio for over half a century.
Throughout his long and continuing career, rock legend Brian May has
relied upon his ‘‘Red Special’’ guitar to create the sound that helped
make Queen one of the world’s most admired and celebrated rock
bands. He has also relied on Seiko.
For more than 40 years, Brian has worn a Seiko diver’s watch whose
enduringly popular design is the inspiration for the latest Seiko 5
Sports collection. Brian bought his Seiko watch while first on tour in
Japan in the 1970’s since when his guitar and his watch have travelled
the globe together, making great music and keeping great time.
The Red Special now inspires a new Seiko 5 Sports watch whose dial
echoes the design of the guitar which Brian and his father built in the
early 1960’s. The guitar was
made by hand, with only
hand tools. The neck was
carved from the wood of an
old fireplace, 100 years old
at the time. The body was
made from blockboard with
an ancient oak insert, and
covered with a mahogany
The new Seiko 5 Sports
watch is constructed
in a very different way
but is also built to last.
With the long-trusted
caliber 4R36 at its
heart, 10 bar water
resistance, a Hardlex
crystal and its robust
steel case, it has all
the qualities that have
made Seiko 5 Sports
so many fans down
the decades. The dial
has the same red and
Brian May visited Wako in Ginza and met with Shinji
black color scheme as
Hattori, chairman and CEO of Seiko Watch Corporation.
the ‘‘Red Special’’ and
features a delicate wood-like pattern like the body of the guitar.
The watch is offered as a limited edition with Brian’s signature on the
case back and comes with a special presentation box designed on the
lines of the Red Special’s custom flight case. The presentation box also
contains a commemorative coin that is based on the sixpenny piece
that he has used throughout his career as a plectrum. The watch is
presented on a black nylon strap, designed to mirror the strap that
Brian now uses on his guitar.
The Seiko Red Special is a 9,000 piece limited edition.
40
jewellery world - March 2020

PULSAR SIGNS ON
WITH SUPERCARS
Iconic watch brand Pulsar extends its long-standing partnership
with Australia's premier motorsport series.
Pulsar has released a brand-new limited-edition Supercars watch to mark their seventh season as the Official Watch Partner
of the Virgin Australia Supercars Championship.
Stuart Smith, group marketing manager of Seiko Australia said the Supercars fan base had continued to show tremendous
support to the brand since its inaugural season in 2014.
“Each year the limited-edition watch sells out and we have the passionate
fan base to thank for that,” he said.
“The Supercars series delivers an exciting championship
year in, year out. Racing and qualifying often
comes down to the millisecond, commanding
the ultimate in accuracy and precision form
its drivers, qualities that are at our very
core as a watchmaker.
“We look forward to another wonderful season of racing and hope the Supercars fans fall
in love with the 2020 limited edition watch.”
In addition to the Supercars-themed watches, this season fans will be able to look out
for new branding, as Pulsar take over the pit exit stop/go lights at Supercars events.
Shane Howard, chief operating officer at Supercars, said the long-standing relationship
with Pulsar was an important partnership for Supercars, with teams and fans alike
looking forward to the new limited edition designs each year.
“Every year our fans get excited about getting their hands on the newly released watch
design. It’s fantastic to continue this partnership in to a seventh season,” he said.
Only 2020 units will be made available worldwide. Features include chronograph
function, stainless steel hard coated case with black patterned leather strap and red
stitching, date calendar and water resistant to 100m.
March 2020 41

NEW PRODUCTS
Ikecho | +61 2 9266 0636
Sterling silver white Freshwater Pearl Edison 11.5-12mm
cubic zirconia bangle 19cm
www.ikecho.com.au
Jewellery Centre | +61 7 3221 3838
New to Jewellery Centre - Geometric Shapes!
Elegant sterling silver earwires (EW5042, EW5043CZ & EW5046)
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com
Bianc | +61 412 251 257
The Bel Noir collection features unique and classic designs set
in sterling silver with cubic zirconia.
All our New Season products are on online now.
info@bianc.com.au
@bianc_jewellery
www.bianc.com.au
Zahar | +61 413 872 810
Zahar is a new Australian fashion jewellery brand that
launched in August 2019.
The designs are bold and take on eclectic elegance and fun,
with a focus on both classic and contemporary styles.
The Zahar collections currently range between WS$14.00-
$35.60.
info@zahar.com.au
@zahar.collection
www.zahar.com.au
42
jewellery world - March 2020

services
services
chains
• Desert Jewells •
Supplier to
all buying groups
Fast delivery Australia wide
THE BATTERY MAN
Opal & Coloured Stone
Repair Service
We specialise in:
• sourcing replacement stones • precision
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jewellery repairs.
sales@desertjewells.com.au
0414 902 200
www.desertjewells.com.au
JAA Member. Fast, reliable. Email quotes.
Nearly 40 years of trusted
service to the Watch &
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Free call: 1800 244 354
Your one stop battery shop
& much more.
orders@thebatteryman.com.au
www.thebatteryman.com.au
Glues
PO Box 112
Toronto NSW 2283
P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168
E: sales@adelaimports.com
Adela Imports offer over 180
designs of sterling silver chain,
with up to 20 lengths available
in each from stock.
Also offering a range of
uniquely designed silver
jewellery.
Catalogue available.
www.adelaimports.com
for sale
for sale
MILN & CO. Pty Ltd
Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834
E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au
Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.
Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.
Pins/tools. Jewellery findings. J C Hurst Bangles.
Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks
Chris O’Neill
Piecemaker
2015 YJG Bench Challenge
Hand Engraving Champion.
Also specialising in quality
Handmakes, Repairs and
Antique restorations in the
Sydney CBD.
0405 689 834
LIFESTYLE FOR SALE
Noosa Heads, Queensland
LIFESTYLE FOR SALE
Noosa Heads, Queensland
Luxury jewellery store located
on the exclusive Hasting Street
opposite iconic Main Beach
Luxury jewellery store located on exclusive Hastings Street
opposite iconic Main Beach
Beautiful modern gallery style shop Þt-out
Existing local, interstate and international client base
Beautiful modern gallery style
shop fit-out
International airport opening 2022
Comprehensive handover
Existing local, interstate and
international client base
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Contact Gordon on 0419672411
International airport
opening 2022
Comprehensive handover
Great return on investment
CONTACT GORDON ON 0419 672 411
Relaxing...
My grandfather has the heart
of a lion - and a lifelong ban
from the zoo.
The quickest way to man's
heart is through his chest.
I like to play chess with old
men in the park, though it's
hard to find 32 of them.
What do you get when you
cross a joke with a rhetorical
question?
James and Kay Drysdale operate a
much loved successful small family
business nestled in the heart of
Berwick Village.
Their business has an established
reputation for high quality jewellery
making, restoration and repairing
with long term support staff.
For full details, contact Barry Erlenwein
T: 0409 324 180
E: barry@justrealestate.com.au
March 2020 43

From our inventory, to yours...
BECOME AN OFFICIAL
STOCKIST
Due to an increase in enquiries from retail customers,
we are upgrading the online presence of our stockist
function on our website. It’s another way O’Neils Affiliated
are trying to keep the Australian Jewellery industry
vibrant and busy in the face of overseas and online sales.
Please visit www.oagems.com
or call our friendly team on 03 9654 5200
for more information.