Jewellery World Magazine - May 2021

MAY 2021
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
KL DIAMONDS
Australia’s Largest Supplier of
Argyle Pink Diamonds

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Jewellery World Magazine
ABN: 82 637 204 454
ISSN: 2207-6751
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570
P: 0431 844 903
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
managing director
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au
editor
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au
contributing writers
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
Stefan Juengling
Cheryl D Harty
art
design@jewelleryworld.net.au
advertising sales
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au
REGULARS
6 News
14 Palloy's Points
16 Trade Well with Rami Baron
18 JAA News
36 Retail Edge
44 Keeping Skills Alive
48 New Products
50 Directory
FEATURES
22 Metal Revolt
Alternative metal jewellery continues to go from
strength to strength.
22
26
32
26 What Makes a Strong Jewellery Brand?
Australian and New Zealand brands reveal what it
takes to grow a successful brand downunder.
32 Jewellery Industry Fair
Melbourne is the place to be this August! Let's get
together again.
DISCLAIMER:
This publication may not be reproduced
in whole or part without the written
permission of the Publisher.
Articles express the opinions of the
authors and are not necessarily those of the
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or
service in this magazine does not indicate the
Publisher’s endorsement.
The Publisher excludes all liability for
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false
or misleading statements that may appear
in this publication.
All information is copyright.
37 TAFE graduate sparkles at Cerrone
May Hua started studying engineering but couldn't
deny her love for design.
40 Taking diamonds online in the pandemic
ALTR Created Diamonds president Amish Shah
explains why being online is essential.
46 Vale Graham Davies
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
MAY 2021
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
KL DIAMONDS
Australia’s Largest Supplier of
Argyle Pink Diamonds
FRONT COVER
KL Diamonds
www.kldiamonds.com.au
4
jewellery world - May 2021

All Silver is Rhodium Plated
All Silver is Rhodium Plated
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)
• International • Sydney AGHA Jewellery Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)
(Darling Harbour)
• International Jewellery Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU

News
Gemfield’s ruby auction
Exceptional blue diamond unearthed in South Africa
Petra Diamonds has announced that it has recovered a 39.34 carat Type IIb
blue diamond at the Cullinan mine in South Africa.
The diamond is said to be of exceptional quality in terms of its colour and
clarity. It is anticipated that the diamond will be sold through special tender.
The Cullinan mine is an important source of rare blue diamonds, although
it is most famous for the historical discovery of the 3,106 carat Cullinan
Diamond in 1905, the largest rough gem diamond ever found. It is also the
source of many large high-quality gem diamonds including famous gems such
as the De Beers Centenary, the Blue Moon of Josephine, the Taylor-Burton
diamond and the Cullinan Dream.
Gemfields has held its first auction of rough rubies since
2019, and the event has proved to be a success, easing
the burden of a tough 2020 for the mining company.
The rough rubies were from pre-pandemic production at
the Montepuez mine in Mozambique, before Gemfields
closed the site from April 2020 to March 2021, to
preserve cash throughout difficult marketing conditions.
Unable to generate any income during 2020, Gemfields
incurred a net loss of $93.2 million. The auction was also
a welcome return to normal for clients around the world,
who saw this as “a vital opportunity to purchase rubies”
according to a company statement.
The rubies were a particularly high quality, selling at an
average price of $171 per carat.
Prince Philip’s jewellery designs
As tributes pour in for the late Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, his talent for jewellery
design is being overlooked in contrast to his sporting and charitable achievements, his
prodigious travel itinerary and his service to his wife, the Queen.
As a young sailor, newly engaged to the heir to the British throne, Prince Philip did
not have much of a budget for an engagement ring. He appealed to his mother,
Princess Alice of Greece and Denmark, and she gave him a diamond and aquamarine
tiara which had been a wedding gift to her from her
uncle and aunt, the Tsar and Tsarina of Russia (later
assassinated in the Russian Revolution). Prince Philip had
the tiara dismantled and commissioned jewellery firm
Philip Antrobus to create a platinum and diamond ring,
featuring a 3 carat central stone, with five smaller stones
set on either side.
The remaining diamonds from the tiara were used to
make a bracelet designed by Philip, and later known as
the Edinburgh wedding bracelet. The geometric design of the wide diamond and platinum bracelet
is reminiscent of Art Deco style, with three large square links connected by vertical sections, set with
three large brilliant-cut diamonds.
6
jewellery world - May 2021

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News
Bling at the BAFTAs and SAG
British actors brought out their best bling
for the British Academy Film Awards
(BAFTAs) in April, and the overall look was
eclectic glamour.
Rene Zellweger wore a sleeking silver-grey
dress with a statement David Webb cuff
made of black enamel, diamond, 18-karat
gold and platinum, with an oval cut
aquamarine as the centre stone. Priyanka
Chopra made a colourful appearance
with a colourful jacket accentuated by
Bulgari jewels – a High Jewellery necklace
of tanzanites, turquoise, sapphires and
diamonds, set in 18-karat rose gold, along
with Serpenti rings and Divas’ Dream earrings. Rose Byrne went with a sophisticated
geometrical style, accessorising her beaded black suit with one Messika Jewellery
Asymmetrical High Jewellery diamond earring.
While the SAG (Screen Actors Guild) Awards were held as a Zoom meeting, the stars
still dressed as if they were walking the red carpet.
Anya Taylor-Joy of The Queen’s Gambit wore a Tiffany diamond necklace along with
several Tiffany rings. Kerry Washington wore a royal blue beaded gown and cap, set
off by a magnificent Bulgari ring, featuring a dark blue stone. Helen Mirren wore a
floor-length red gown, with a heavy gold statement necklace by David Webb and
Gillian Anderson wore a necklace by Chopard.
Three fancy coloured diamonds lead
sales at Christie’s
Three rings featuring fancy vivid colour diamonds
created a sensation at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels,
selling for a combined price of $8.4 million at the
New York sale.
The three colourful diamonds were known
collectively as the Perfect Palette, with the 2.17 carat
fancy-vivid-purplish-pink diamond ring selling for
$3.5 million. The 2.13-carat fancy vivid blue diamond
ring sold for $2.7 million, and the 2.34 carat fancy
vivid orange diamond ring went for $2.2 million.
The auction was held online and drew participants
from 40 countries
across five
continents.
Other notable
sales included
a diamond and
onyx Serpenti
wristwatch,
donated by Bulgari
in support of the
Elizabeth Taylor
AIDS Foundation.
The watch sold
for $50,000 and
the proceeds will
be donated to the
charity.
8
jewellery world - May 2021

News
Watch federations joins CIBJO
CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has
confirmed the membership of the Federation of the
Swiss Watch Industry FH. CIBJO President Gaetano
Cavalieri welcomed the decision, stating that it
underscores the convergent interests of the watch,
jewellery and gemstones industries, and the need for
all to work together to protect consumer confidence
and support.
Free gem courses online
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF has launched a series of free-of-charge,
online courses, entitled “Understanding Gemstones.” With each covering a
specific gem, the courses are comprehensive and self-paced by the student,
who is able to start and complete them at any time via SSEF’s Internet-based
learning platform.
The courses are available in English, French and simplified Chinese. The gems
currently covered are diamonds, emeralds, pearls, rubies and sapphires. SSEF
plans on adding more gems and languages to the selection of courses in the
future.
Each course provides students with an introduction to the selected gem, its
history, properties, information about how it is formed, the locations from
which it is sourced, treatments that it may be subject to, and, when relevant,
its synthetic counterparts.
At the end of each course, students are presented with a quiz, and if they pass
are awarded a certificate of completion for that unit.
This new online offering builds on SSEF’s in-person courses, which began more
than two decades ago and range from introductory practical gemmology all
the way to scientific gemmology. As a non-profit Swiss foundation, SSEF’s
mission is to carry out gem research and provide gem education.
“We have had the privilege of testing many of the world's most famous and
exceptional gemstones, and as a consequence have amassed a vast quantity of
knowledge that we would like to make available to the industry and jewellery
buying public,” said Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki, Director of SSEF. “Recent
advances in online learning and technology enables us to launch these online
courses, to share our knowledge and passion about gemstones, to a wide
international audience at no cost to students.”
Representing around 460 members or more than
90 percent of Swiss firms active in the production
and sale of watches, clocks and components, the
Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH was
established in 1982 following the merger between
the Swiss Federation of Watch Manufacturers’
Associations and the Swiss Chamber of Watchmaking.
It thus represents almost 150 years of association
activity within the Swiss watch industry.
Among the organisation’s objectives are to protect
and develop the Swiss watch industry, to uphold its
members’ interests generally and in a legal context,
and to represent the sector as a whole, both in
Switzerland and abroad.
“We are delighted to have so important a leader in
the international watch sector as part of CIBJO,” Dr.
Cavalieri said. “Together the jewellery, gemstone and
watch industries represent more than $250 billion of
sales annually, reaching out to a very similar consumer
base, often using the same chains of distribution,
particularly at the retail end. We have parallel interests
and face common threats. For all of us, consumer
confidence is not simply desirable, but it is a business
prerequisite. I look forward to working with my Swiss
colleagues in creating a common front, allowing us
work united and strengthened in the international
markets.”
www.ssef.ch/masterclass
10
jewellery world - May 2021

WANTED
AU S T R A L I A N P I N K D I A M O N D S
Sell Your Pink Diamond in the First Ever Global Public Tender
Introductory Commission for the Trade
Yourdiamonds.com TM is making a secondary
market for pinks originating from the Argyle
Diamond Mine.
Introduce your client’s Australian pink
diamond to the Public Tender and we will
provide you with an introductory commission.
Contact: Tim Goodman
tim.goodman@fineartbourse.com
+61 (0) 481780302

News
Public tender of Australian pink diamonds announced
A Sydney-based technology start-up is searching
the globe for pre-owned Australian pink
diamonds to be included in a Public Tender
conducted in late June.
Believed to be a world first, the tender will
include rare pinks originating from the Argyle
Diamond Mine consigned by
a finance company, private
collectors and investors.
The promotoris offering the
jewellery trade an introductory
commission to introduce selected
Australian pinks belonging to their private clients.
YourDiamonds.com is the brainchild of Tim Goodman
the founder of Bonhams & Goodman and the former
Executive Chairman of Sotheby’s Australia, once the
Tim Goodman
largest jewellery auction enterprise in the
southern hemisphere.
“We are making a much-needed secondary
market for Argyle pinks as re-selling these
valuable stones can be problematic,” said
Tim Goodman.
Yourdiamonds.com boasts jewellery
royalty on its Board including the former Executive Vice President
of Tiffany & Co, James Fernandez and Her Highness Shaikha Dheya
bint Ebrahim Al Khalifa and lists Macquarie Bank former property
director Bill Moss amongst its backers.
Introducing…
DIAMOND DESIGN
THAT’S A CUT ABOVE
ALL OTHERS
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To understand how you can make Aurora 88 the new stand out in your premium range selection,
contact Claire Packett on 1300 531 014 | info@leadingedgegroup.com.au
www.aurora88.com.au
www.legj.com.au

News
What a Spectacle!
Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction will offer
the Spectacle diamond for sale in May. The 100.94 ct,
D colour, internally flawless diamond from Russia is
expected to fetch between USD $13 million and $19
million.
The gem has been featured on the auction house’s
Instagram where it details the stone’s story. Unearthed
by miner Alrosa in 2016 in northeast Russia, it started life (above ground) as a
207.29 ct piece of rough. The preparation and cutting process took 20 months
in the Diamonds of Alrosa cutting factory in Moscow.
The emerald cut was chosen to present what Alrosa calls “the perfect
geometry of the diamond.”
“Emerald cut is incompatible with any imperfections, as it allows the observer
to gaze endlessly into the clear, unobstructed depths of the gem,” said a
statement from Christie’s. “It requires the initial diamond to be perfect.”
Chemgold launches Melbourne office
Chemgold is proud to have launched an office in the
Melbourne CBD. Now all their trusted and reliable products
and services will be more accessible for jewellery retailers and
manufacturers in Victoria.
The office will allow customers across Victoria to access
everything from casting, refining, fabricated alloys, findings,
bullion, mounts, laser engraving and their comprehensive
10,000+ design catalogue.
"Celebrating 35 years in the trade we are excited to offer
Victorians additional convenience to drop off waxes or masters
for casting, collect various metal and orders," said Darren Sher,
Chemgold director.
The office is located at 1406/227 Collins Street, Melbourne and
to ensure a high level of service it is recommended to schedule
an appointment prior to dropping off or collecting orders.
Celebrating 35 Years
Highest Quality Personalised Service
METALS
CASTING
CAD/CAM
REFINING
FINDINGS
1300 984 751
sales@chemgold.com | www.chemgold.com

PALLOYS POINTS
Chris Botha,
Operations Manager, Jewellery Division
Palloys
JEWELLERY DESIGN IN THE DIGITAL AGE
Precision and finesse with the
Palloys Design Team
CAD has been a large part of the jewellery industry since the turn of the
century and is continuing to revolutionise the design process.
CAD technology has enabled jewellers to create the most complex
designs with the most accurate precision, quicker and more
affordably than ever before. Many of these designs would
have been impossible to achieve by hand. CAD combined with CAM
technology has allowed these designs to not only come to life, but it
has allowed the jeweller greater control of their own designs and more
adaptation.
The sky seems to be the limit when it comes to jewellery design and
CAD but the importance of achieving precision in the CAD file is still
largely misunderstood, and the complexities involved are significant.
You can work directly with the industry’s most experienced design
team to create your custom jewellery designs at Palloys to ensure your
CAD designs are accurate every time.
Our designers specialise in getting the best quality results from our
3D printing and casting services for our clients. The team will optimise
your CAD files to minimise the occurrences of breakaway and porosity,
cutting down your casting turnaround times and improving quality.
The Palloys Design team is supported by unmatched printing capacity,
producing the industry’s highest resolution in both wax and resin,
which means less time spent cleaning up at the bench and less gold
and silver ending up in the sweeps! We can educate you on the best
practices to create the most reliable CAD designs, including where to
sprue, ideal prong heights and widths and the recommended depths
for engraving.
Our highly skilled Design & Print team is proficient in all major CAD
applications, and we can work with your files created in MatrixGold,
14
jewellery world - May 2021

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY
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RhinoGold, 3Design and JewelCAD. We can work from a pdf, sketch,
photo or logo for the most streamlined, efficient CAD service. All
correspondence is stored in your private My Palloys account, and
you can speak directly with the Palloys Design team at any time
through this platform.
Be confident in what to quote your customers by using palloys.com
to provide you with an accurate cost.
You can upload straight into the Palloys STL uploader for immediate
pricing information straight from your CAD Design. An STL is the
file format supported by most major CAD programmes. It is the
universal CAD file industry-wide.
NS09N-YPS
The Palloys Design team can also create renders of your designs as a
sales feature for your customers. Bringing a life-like element to the
design is an imminent part of the selling process. Rendering in the
modern age is of such a quality, it could almost pass as life-like.
White Opals
On Palloys.com, you can review accurate estimates for your
printing, casting, fabricated metals, findings, diamonds and our
finishing services, including polishing, plating, setting and laser
engraving at the most competitive prices.
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www.ikecho.com.au | enquiries@ikecho.com.au
Tel: (02) 9266 0636

WHAT SORT OF EMPLOYEE
DO YOU NEED?
On the surface, it's a fairly simple question. But is it?
If you are in the wholesale business, you
might say you need a salesperson to go on
the road, a sorter in the office, an accounts
person and an admin person. As a retailer
you might need a jeweller, a diamond setter,
admin, accounts etc.
All of the above are functions. They don’t
necessarily define what we need other than in
the most simplistic sense.
Think about it in terms of layers. On the basic
layer, you need someone who shares a similar
code of ethics with the rest of the team. Is this
person tidy, messy, do they think they know it
all or are they prepared to learn and improve?
Are they ambitious or do they want to be
strictly nine-to-five?
Level II could well be the skill set. Do they
have the ability to do the job and are their
abilities going to exceed your expectations?
The aim should always be to bring in someone
who can not only do the job, but also bring
improvements and better ways of doing the
role.
It’s level III that I find is critical in building our
business.
Right now, everyone is doing pretty well in the
jewellery trade, or at least should be. So, now
is a really good time to stop and analyse your
business, the people around you, and work
out what is it that you really need.
It is incredibly difficult, when you are your
business, to recognise the different functions
that you fulfil. It is like you’re a jack-of-all,
hence purely from a time point of view, it
negates your ability to identify opportunities
to either grow or increase the profitability
of your business. It is so easy to just do it
yourself. You think it’s just a simple problem
that requires only ten minutes or half an hour
at best. The next thing you know, it’s already
lunchtime. You return a few calls, and the day
just disappeared.
From my own experience, I believe that by
having people remove a variety of tasks from
the you as an owner, it provides you with time
to think and to look at better ways of running
your operations. I know you have heard it all
before – “work on your business, not in your
business”. However, the first thing a small to
medium-sized business will say is that they
can’t afford to bring on more people.
I think you can’t afford not to bring on more
people.
The question is why are you bringing them on?
Have you clearly defined what you will hand
over in the transition? And what is the result
you hope to achieve by bringing them on?
Now it might mean giving you time to go
fishing, to go shopping, do an extra Pilates
class or go and visit a couple of friends in the
trade that you haven’t met up with for a long
time. Whatever it is, be honest with yourself
as to what you hope to achieve by bringing
on more people. If it’s for a better quality of
life, then accept that your bottom line will
not necessarily improve, but I would bet with
you that you will be a better employer and
husband/wife or partner for the simple fact
that you are happier. Inevitably, it will probably
improve your bottom line – or maybe just your
bottom :)
If it’s because you want to grow your business,
then the exercise is more difficult because it’s
16
jewellery world - May 2021

DDCA NEWS
Rami Baron
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia
rami@ddca.org.au
LIFE IS
BEAUTIFUL...
WITH GERRIM
not just about giving yourself more time, it’s about giving yourself more
time to be more strategic in what you want to achieve, and the results
should be measurable.
Let’s say you want to create a new range of jewellery. Give yourself
the time to go into the city and look around at what others are doing,
set up appointments with multiple gem merchants to understand
what is available, analyse the pricing differences and spend the hours
that it takes to search online for suppliers overseas who may carry
merchandise you can’t get locally. These are all time-consuming
exercises which require you to dedicate your time and concentration.
Life is a trade-off. If you want to do this, then someone else must serve
customers, take appointments on that day, manage the workshop, or
set up the staff schedules.
In my previous article I wrote about change and I posed the question -
do you even want to change? This article is about taking you out of your
comfort zone.
No person is an army unto themselves.
We need to surround ourselves with like-minded people who share
our moral code and hopefully want to grow and be challenged. The
best people in your business will never stay unless you provide not only
vision and opportunity, but proof that you are executing this vision.
Nothing happens overnight. Everything takes longer and probably costs
double from what you initially think.
I challenge you all to ask yourself what sort of employee you need.
The answer must be built around your end game. Is it to build the best
business you can, or be the best version of yourself?
Get it right and you can have the double whammy … both.
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.
TOLL FREE 1800 GERRIM
PO Box 3168 Yeronga
Queensland 4104
sales@gerrim.com
www.gerrim.com
FOLLOW US

PRESIDENT'S
MESSAGE
Jo Tory
In2021, the Jewellers Association of Australia is pleased and proud once again to bring the JAA
Australasian Jewellery Awards to the industry; the longest-running local design and manufacture
awards in Australia. This is the 26th program of the Awards, which celebrates and recognises
design, innovation, craftsmanship and marketability in the jewellery trade. They are the ultimate
industry awards that reward creativity, skill.
Not only do the prestigious Awards give
manufacturing jewellers a unique creative
outlet to showcase their skills and talents on
a professional and respected platform. It also
allows industry participants an opportunity
to reflect and evaluate themselves against
others, as a result the Awards promote and
foster the growth and talent in the industry.
On a local level, the Awards provides
individuals the chance to exhibit their
exceptional skill sets and design prowess
to not only the industry but to consumers,
through the JAA’s promotion of the Awards on
social media to over 7,700+ followers, through
the Awards e-publication and through the
Winners’ Video Presentation, which in 2019
received over 2,400 views. On an international
level, it gives an immeasurable opportunity for
category winners to enter the International
Jewellery Design Excellence awards in Hong
Kong, competing across 27 countries and
regions and showcased to nearly 52,00 buyers
at the Hong Kong International Jewellery
Show. Over the last decade, the Awards
program has seen three Australian Awards
entrants go on to an international stage; with
Emily Snadden, Martyn Brown and Martin
Linning, and Roberto Mattei being awarded in
the International Jewellery Design Excellence
Award in Hong Kong.
In 2019, I opened my office to the JAA to
facilitate the judging day. As the JAA President
this also allowed me to have a thorough look
at the wonderful and exceptional pieces
entered. I was extremely impressed with the
calibre of not only the manufacturing skills
but the innovation that continues to evolve in
jewellery design. I am excited to see how this
year’s entrants push the design envelope in
2021 along with demonstrating their skills in
executing challenging technical elements. Year
on year, comments from the judges’ centre
around how difficult, yet fulfilling, it is to judge
the varying design styles and techniques of
the entries.
We thank our generous sponsors, who
without their support our Awards program
would not happen. We call on entrants and
the wider industry to support such companies
who back programs aimed at supporting the
essence of our industry, manufacturing.
In addition to celebrating 90 years since
the JAA’s founding in 1931, this year we will
recognise finalists and winners at a pink 1930’s
themed cocktail party on Sunday, 1 August
in Melbourne. This event will be held at the
same time of the inaugural Jewellery Industry
Fair (www.jewelleryindustryfair.com).
So, will you be the one in 2021? Entries close
on Friday, 9 July. Full details at
jaa.com.au/awards.
18
jewellery world - May 2021

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Staying up to date means you can
make more educated and
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Members value newsletters, robbery
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Member Portal on the website
A valued member benefit.
Join today
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WHY ENTER?
1.
2.
3.
RECEIVE A PROFESSIONAL PHOTO OF YOUR ENTRY
GREAT PRIZES TO BE WON ACROSS ALL CATEGORIES
ENTRIES JUDGED ON PHYSICAL PIECE AND NOT PHOTOS
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By Stefan Juengling
METAL REVOLT
The modern and durable alternative
metal jewellery industry
Showcase Jewellers
Gold, silver and platinum will always have the strongest presence in the modern jewellery
industry, so their cousins in the alternative metal jewellery sector can often find themselves
sidelined or regarded as inconsequential. But the grey metals have their own important place
in jewellery. So here we give the alternative metal jewellery industry some of the limelight with
input from four experts in the Australian and New Zealand jewellery industry.
Alternative metals such as stainless
steel, titanium, tungsten, cobalt and
zirconium have always had their
unique place in the jewellery industry, fitting
that place between costume jewellery and
precious metal jewellery. In a 2017 science
journal article titled “Use of Titanium and
Tungsten as an Alternative to Gold in Jewellery
Manufacturing”, the authors said that while
Artifact
the majority of jewellers use noble metals for
manufacturing their jewellery, the price rise of
these noble metals in recent years demands
innovation, and one of those avenues that
could be adopted could be the use of nonnoble
metals.
Attractive price point and unique
features
The authors of that article went on to say that
pursuing alternative metals would not only
decrease the cost of raw materials, but also
develop products with new and innovative
design. This is a belief shared by most of our
contributors.
Director of Victorian-based alternative metal
jewellery company Etrnl Jamie Nadler said
that what makes alternative metal jewellery
attractive is that it’s affordable, strong, more
durable and able to be made into a wide
range of designs to bring out the customer’s
personality.
Artifact
22
jewellery world - May 2021

Ellani Collections
“For example, tungsten is ten times
stronger than gold making it the
perfect ring for someone who
may otherwise damage their
ring,” he said.
“Titanium is another material
that is stronger than gold and is
also extremely lightweight making
it a great comfortable option for
people who are not used to wearing
jewellery.”
Artifact is a New Zealand-based jeweller who
specialises in making titanium and Damascus steel
rings. Director Ted Daniels shared similar sentiments
as those above, stating that alternative metal jewellery is
more cost-effective, and consumers like them as a point
of difference. As for material qualities he said titanium is
durable, harder-wearing and hypoallergenic, but conversely
it is hard to work with, requires specialised equipment and
skills, and manufacturers are restricted in their designs.
Ellani Collections is a New South Wales-based silver and
stainless steel designer jeweller and co-director Paul Hicks
Ellani Collections
Etrnl
Time to buy Australian-made
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.
Melbourne 3000 Victoria
Millennium Chain
Finished Top 5 in the category of
Best Selling Gold Jewellery Suppliers in
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.
millennium_chain

echoed the price point advantage of alternative metal jewellery.
"Alternative metal jewellery can be produced at a lower cost enabling it to be
marketed at affordable retail price points with good retail margins," he said.
Darren Roberts of Cudworth Enterprises believes that the points on durability
and price ensure that the alternative metals settle more naturally into the men’s
jewellery market than the women’s.
“Stainless steel performs more strongly in the men’s
market,” he said, “while women typically prefer
sterling silver or gold. Stainless steel can also
handle the way men tend to look after their
jewellery,” he added. “The advantage to the
alternative metals is
price point. The
disadvantage
is that they
cannot always
be melted
down and remade,
and rings cannot be
resized.”
Showcase Jewellers
Showcase Jewellers Buying Group is Australasia's
premier buying and marketing group,
representing over 250 independent
jewellery stores across Australia and
New Zealand, and chief operations
officer Nicola Adams noted the positive
marketing potential alternative metal
jewellery had. She said that most of the
alternative metal jewellery is attached to
branded jewellery ranges, and thus the marketing
drives sales for the product more than the metal.
Showcase Jewellers
“This fast fashion category needs to be affordable, so consumers can
buy new products continually,” she said.
“Alternate metals suits for this reason.”
Alternative, but can it be luxury?
When compared to their precious metal cousins,
one may think it impossible for a stainless steel
or titanium ring to be considered a luxurious
piece of jewellery. Nicola believed it was not the
jewellery’s metal, but the brand’s positioning where
the consumer’s idea of whether a piece of alternative
jewellery is a luxury product or not.
“I think it can if the brand it is being presented by is
already positioned as a luxury brand,” she said.
On a similar note, Paul remarked that the concept
Ellani Collections
of luxury is subjective
and often up to the
consumer.
“A piece of jewellery can
hold a strong sentimental value
that carries a story or a memory, it is not
always the purchase price,” he said.
“Retailers that cater to consumers of different age
categories that have different levels of disposable
income on their journey through life can develop strong
relationships and loyalty from consumers that see them
coming back when they are in a position or stage of life to
make the more expensive jewellery purchases.”
Ted pointed to Artifact’s Damascus ring with a gold inner
as an example of a
luxurious alternative
metal jewellery piece.
“Also adding
diamonds will make
them upmarket and
luxurious,” he said.
Etrnl
Artifact
24
jewellery world - May 2021
Showcase Jewellers

Darren felt the country of origin often had a big impact on the
impression of luxury, with countries such as Italy and Germany
having reputations for craftsmanship and design.
Dissenting, Jamie said he did not believe alternative jewellery
could be considered luxury, but he also believed that was part of
the appeal.
“Alternative jewellery is sold at a price point that is affordable to
everyone,” he said.
Showcase Jewellers
A bright future for the grey metals
Alternative metals have opened up the world of fashion jewellery
to many different price demographics as jewellers and designers
use new and non-traditional materials to create their pieces. This
makes for an exciting time for jewellers and jewellery lovers alike.
Indeed Jamie believes the future in this field is very exciting and
full of opportunity.
“We have only scratched the surface of how alternative metal
can be used and the materials we are using,” he said. “There may
come a day that it would no longer be tagged as alternative.”
Cudworth Enterprises, which this year celebrates 100 years
since the original company was registered, offers a wide range
of products in alternative metals and believes the growth in the
sector will continue.
Cudworth Enterprises
Etrnl
“So long as alternative metal jewellery
maintains strong design and quality,
the future looks very strong,” said
Darren. “We offer the largest range
in Australia with a full range of
categories of stainless steel jewellery
with matching pieces.”
The days of ‘the other metals’ only
being used in offerings of men’s rings
are definitely over but the staples will
always be on trend.
“Cufflinks, bangles and rings will
always look good in alternative
metals,” said Darren.
The alternative metal jewellery sales at Ellani Collections have
seen strong growth, and Paul said he cannot see it slowing down
in popularity.
May 2021 25

By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
WHAT MAKES A STRONG
JEWELLERY BRAND?
In today’s crowded virtual marketplace where consumers are easily distracted, a strong
brand is more important than ever. Your brand acts as a shorthand symbol of what your
business represents, and a strong brand image ensures that consumers recognise you faster
and remember you longer. Here we take an in-depth look at what constitutes a strong, local
brand with valuable input from some of Australia and New Zealand's leading brands.
A
success brand establishes your place
in the complex network of businesses
within the jewellery industry –
designers, manufacturers, distributors,
wholesalers and retailers. By clearly
delineating your brand, you will find your
industry partners as well as your customers. So
how do you build a brand that truly represents
your key business message and reflects the
quality of your products and services?
Establish your vision
Olivia Anderson of Leading Edge Group says
that a brand’s success ultimately depends
on the vision one sets for their business, and
ultimately its purpose.
“Essentially, the brand’s reason why?” says
Olivia. “One may have started a jewellery
business as it has been part of their family
heritage or for a love of craftsmanship or
even for a unique taste of retail adventure!
Whatever the reason, one needs to define why
the brand exists for the customer.”
For nearly 40 years, Leading Edge Retail has
been helping Australian family businesses
survive and thrive, providing expert advice
in relation to marketing, creative design,
website design and development, social media
campaigns, email newsletters and online
campaign content.
“Once a business has their why, each business
decision, marketing campaign, supplier and
product selection needs to support this
purpose,” said Olivia.
Most people entering the jewellery industry
do have a clear vision of what they want to
achieve, in terms of quality, style and value.
The strength of the brand lies in the ability to
stay true to that vision. Established in 1953,
family firm Worth & Douglas is highly regarded
as one of Australasia’s leading wedding ring
manufacturers, and has maintained the same
vision and the consistency of their designs
over three generations. Chris Worth, grandson
of the founder Peter Worth, says a strong
brand has a story behind it.
“The W&D brand has been built around
Peter’s core values and he made a great
impression on the jewellery industry during
his 70 years in business,” said Chris. “Our value
and strengths come from our longevity and
the trust we’ve built with our customers over
Worth & Douglas
60 years by continually delivering
quality products and services
in a friendly and timely
manner.”
“Many of our styles were
designed by the late
Peter Worth and
many more by our
current MD John
Worth – with input
Worth & Douglas
from the wider team and our customers, of
course!” Chris said. “Our design technique is
predominantly natural evolution: working with
our core products and modifying or tailoring
them to stay on top of latest trends and styles.
It’s great fun trawling through our vast back
catalogue to find designs from decades ago
which have come back into fashion!”
Sales and marketing manager of Ellendale
Diamonds, Gersande Price says that the
company strives to establish reputable longterm
relationships with their customers and
jewellery stockists, ensuring the brand delivers
on its promises, exceeding expectations.
“Jewellery today is so much more than an
accessory -- it reflects your personality and
style,” said Gersande. “It’s therefore important
for a luxury jewellery brand to have its own
concept and characteristics being unique,
appealing to its target audience.”
26
jewellery world - May 2021

Ellendale Diamonds is one of
Australia’s largest diamond
wholesalers, and the Desert
Rose jewellery collection was
created to complement their
core product range. It is available
through existing and upcoming
retail partners in Australia and
New Zealand.
“At Ellendale
Diamonds Australia,
we have developed
the Desert
Rose jewellery
collection with an
exclusive concept
Ellendale and distribution
channel focussing on originality,
coherence, and sustainability.”
For many Australian jewellery
businesses, such as Ellendale
Diamonds Australia or Bee
Jewellery, their Australian
identity is an important element of
their vision.
Ellendale
“Bee Jewellery has always been a brand for
the hard-working Australian who feel they
need a little reward and
consequently our designs
are made to fit within a
three-digit retail price
point,” says managing
director of Bee Jewellery,
Steven Sesselmann. Bee
Jewellery is a jewellery design
and manufacturing company,
established in Australia in 1983.
Their elegant and pleasing designs
feature a wide range of gemstones.
Bee Jewellery
“We have always believed that form follows
function and this gives us direction when we
create new products or discontinue products
that fail to meet these standards,” Steven said.
Adina Watches is another business that has
shaped its Australian identity firmly into its
vision. Founded by Robert “Bob” Menzies
in 1971, Adina designs and assembles high
quality handcrafted wrist watches suited
for the Australian
lifestyle. Adina is
renowned for their
innovative designs
and technological
developments.
“Being an Australian
Adina
family business
that manufactures watches here in Australia
is at the very core of our brand,” says Grant
Menzies, general manager of Adina and son
of Bob Menzies who is now the managing
director. “This has never resonated more
powerfully than during the current COVID
environment when Australian consumers are
actively seeking our Australian-made goods.
This consumer behaviour certainly plays to
the strengths of a brand like ours that with a
strong regional foot print.”
Adina
And if you develop a new vision, you can
always launch a new brand within your
business. Bianca Silver, founder of Bianc, says
that Bianc’s brand encompasses semi-precious
collections change with the seasons, each
telling their own unique story with colour,
texture and detailed craftsmanship.
“It has always been my goal to design precious
jewellery at a price that is accessible to all
women. I always prioritise a high quality of
materials and craftsmanship which allows for
me to maintain consistency in my designs,”
says Bianca. However, she has recently
launched a new brand called Zahar which has
a completely
different focus
to Bianc.
“Before even
launching the
brands, I always
had a mission
to value the
quality and
accessibility,”
Bianca said.
“This has
definitely helped
me to develop
my goals in
Bianc
expanding the business as well as help me
better understand both our target customers.”
“While Bianc is a high fashion brand
centred on precious stones and handmade
craftmanship, Zahar has more of a high
fashion, contemporary approach,” said Bianca.
“Zahar focuses on what is on trend so I design
my collections accordingly.”
Bianca says that one of the benefits of
promoting two separate brands is the ability
to target two markets. “If you want a quick
gift or a fun and affordable piece for a night
out, then Zahar is your go-to, but if you want
something precious, quality and long term,
you’ll find it at Bianc,” said Bianca. “Even
though Bianc and Zahar are so different, they
are still designed to sit next to each other and
complement each other without competing.”
Start small, endure longer
Starting small enables a jewellery business
to refine and consolidate its brand identity
as it grows, and by carefully establishing a
strong foundation, the brand can flourish for
decades. Amy Bradley of Pastiche says that
gradual growth helps you remain true to your
identity and aesthetic as the brand continues
to evolve.
Bee Jewellery
May 2021 27

“Part of the process does involve growing
slowly to develop a style of your own, but at
the same time being able to take a chance on
new designs to keep the brand image fresh
and innovative,” says Amy.
Established more than 30
years ago, Pastiche’s
brand vision is
reflected in the
company name, as the
word means a work of
art that pays tribute to
other works of art.
“The Pastiche brand is inspired by the wealth
of art, beauty and diversity all around us,” said
Amy. “The word itself and our brand ethos
means bringing these influences together to
create something new and unique in every
carefully crafted piece of Pastiche jewellery.”
Amy said that Pastiche’s brand vision has
evolved over time and has been refined to
reflect the company’s value and goals.
Worth & Douglas
Pastiche
Ellendale
“It is so important to set these
brand values as they become
the fundamentals
we refer to back
to and stay
true to as the
brands grows,”
Amy said.
Steven Sesselmann from Bee Jewellery
also believes that time and consistency are
critically important when building a brand.
“I think one of the most important factors is to
deliver what the brand promises,” Steven said.
“Over time the consumer will build trust in
that brand and start recommending it to their
friends and relatives.”
Steven says that
Bee Jewellery is so
committed to seeing
their products worn
for a long time, the
company offers a
“crazy 10-year no
questions asked
guarantee.”
Pastiche
“Bee Jewellery has been remarkably
consistent with its product for almost 40
years and has produced in excess of 5 million
pieces of jewellery,” says Steven. “This means
that we can confidently say that generations
of Australian women have enjoyed owning a
piece of Bee Jewellery.”
Grant Menzies from Adina Watches says that
a strong and authentic brand will always take
time to mature, and it is important not to be
distracted by passing trends.
“You need to nurture your brand and
consistently prove yourself over time, by
delivering high quality products and service.
In our case, this applies to our beautiful and
reliable watches, and – just as importantly –
our exceptional after-sales service to support
the watches we have produced. A brand takes
time to develop, and in order for it to truly
come alive, you must stay true to your core
Pastiche
Bianc
beliefs that inspired you to start the business
in the first place. In the 1970s we were
asked to make digitals, in the 80s to make
Swatch-looking watches, in the 90s it was
surf watches, and of course today it’s smart
watches. We have stayed true to ourselves
over the past 50 years, maintaining our
ethos of producing conventional, reliable and
repairable wrist watches, putting our heart
into every watch we make.”
Bianca Silver
said that the
Bianc journey
towards a fresh,
fashion-forward
jewellery label
featuring clean
lines, quality
finishes and
accessible,
contemporary
design began in
her childhood,
as she watched in fascination as her mother
pursued a career in fine jewellery.
“My early interest in jewellery evolved into a
passion for creating high quality accessories
Zahar
28
jewellery world - May 2021

Ellendale_Halfpage_200x135_MAY21_V3_2.indd 1
15/4/21 2:21 pm
and has culminated in today’s brand
experience, combining my love for fashion
with my commitment to refined artistry and
wearable, unique designs. I have built slowly
over time, nurturing each existing brand and
also the Australian and New Zealand markets.
I haven’t been one to rush into expanding
too quickly overseas because I value the
Australian/New Zealand markets and the
relationships I am building with stockists and
customers.”
Create a network
With the interaction
between designers,
manufacturers, retailers
and wholesalers,
networking is essential
and inevitable, and it is
particularly important
to choose industry
Ellendale
partners who
consistently
reflect and
enhance your
brand.
Gersande Price
of Ellendale
Diamonds
Australia
says that the
company’s
Bianc
brand identity
was developed with the requirements of
clients and stockists in mind.
“We work closely with our stockists to ensure
their individual needs are catered for from
products to marketing and everything in
between,” Gersande said.
“We identified a requirement in the market
for wearable jewellery pieces that encompass
excellence through Australian design and
manufacture. Key elements
of the brand include high
quality jewellery pieces, an
attractive point of sale display,
quality marketing material and
excellent customer service.
This encourages successful B2B
business relationships.”
The Desert Rose jewellery
collection has been designed
to work in harmony with their
Australian loose diamond
inventory.
Gersande also said that Ellendale
Diamonds’ organic vision is
one of transparency and
sustainability, and in keeping
with this philosophy, their
jewellery is ethically sourced
and individually certified.
“Our retail partners report great
Ellendale
Loose Diamonds
Wholesaler
Ellendale Yellows
&
Argyle Pinks
Blues
Champagnes
Yellows | Whites
DESERTRose
when nature meets perfection
Ph: 08 6180 1562
E: sales@ellendalediamonds.com.au
www.ellendalediamonds.com.au
ellendalediamonds
ellendalediamonds

success when displaying the Desert Rose
jewellery collection together with Australian
loose diamonds,” said Gersande. “It creates
consumer interest for spot sales of available
jewellery pieces as well as custom created
items.”
When seeking networking partners, it is
important to be selective so you maintain the
right platform for your brand.
“Finding the right fit is a
natural process, rather
than something that
can be forced,”
said Amy
Bradford
of Pastiche.
“A stockist
must believe for
Zahar
A good way to maintain
brand consistency is to be
proactive and consistent.
Worth & Douglas
themselves that their customers will see value
in what we create, rather than needing to
be convinced. The Pastiche brand is true to
itself, having been built with an understanding
of who we are and what we love. When you
have a clear vision and brand philosophy, you
attract the stockists who see and appreciate
what you are doing. We aim to show our
stockists and end-consumers that Pastiche
is a brand they can trust to deliver
unique designs, high standards
of quality and great customer
service. We design many of the
products in-house to maintain a
distinct Pastiche style. We also want
to give our stockists great customer
service and marketing support with high
quality imagery for their websites and
social pages.”
A good way to maintain brand consistency is
to be proactive and consistent.
Chris Worth of Worth & Douglas says they
only ever work with reputable jewellers and
they build brand awareness while developing
trust and loyalty.
“Stockists present our brand through branded
displays, POS collateral, catalogues, and digital
assets for promoting our products throughout
their online channels,” Chris said.
Grant Menzies from Adina Watches says it is
important to keep working to stay relevant in
the current market.
“As an Australian family business, our goal is
for our brand to resonate strongly across a
myriad of markets from regional Australia to
the city,” Grant says. “Over the past 50 years,
we have prided ourselves in staying relevant
to these markets with our designing and
of course by continually aiming to surpass
both our retailers and their customers’
expectations. Our business has grown
organically from just Bob doing everything in
the business to put food on the table for his
young family, to today where we have been
the naming rights sponsor of international
sporting events. We have always worked
closely with our retailers and they are our
toughest critics and biggest advocates. They
have always been very quick to tell us when
we are straying from our strengths.”
Steven Sesselmann from Bee Jewellery says
that the concern about retailers
maintaining brand consistency
inspired the development of the
Bee Retail System (BRS) in the
early 1990s.
Ellendale
“The BRS is a standard range of
100 proven fast sellers, presented
on a custom display where each
piece has its own numbered
position, often referred to as a
planogram system,” Steven said.
“What makes the Bee Retail System so unique
is the cooperative marketing contribution
used to promote the brand and direct more
customers to their stores,” he said. “As a
national jewellery brand, Bee Jewellery
values its resellers by including a generous
commission every time a sale is made directly
to a consumer online. Jewellery retailers
who want to sell the Bee brand make a
commitment to display the product on Bee
branded trays, keep the range fully stocked at
all times and support cooperative marketing.
In return they receive a great range on
consignment with a small refundable holding
deposit. The Bee Retail System worked in
the 90's, it worked in the naughties and it's
still going strong today 30 years after its
conception.”
Bee Jewellery
30
jewellery world - May 2021

Attracting the customer
Identifying the target customer and
establishing how to reach this customer has
always been a cornerstone of marketing and
promotion. With social media, businesses are
finding it easier to attract a wider range of
target customers, and this is particularly true
in the jewellery industry, which is promoting
such photogenic and desirable products.
“Growing brand awareness is essential for
driving demand and thereby sending new
customers through our stockists' doors,” says
Amy Bradley of Pastiche. “We have found
that our customer base has grown from a
niche following to a broader audience as we
expanded our reach and exposure through
social media and other online marketplaces.
Engaging with our fan base through social
media has been a great development. It
encourages a sense of community and
involvement in what we do – whether it's
being the first to see our new collections,
or providing direct feedback through our
polls, or participating in fun promotions like
competitions.”
Olivia Anderson from Leading Edge
says that social media provides a
powerful opportunity to create a
strong authentic bond between
the brand and customers.
“Social media is a powerful
platform to share authentic
stories, to engage, entertain and
delight customers,” said Olivia.
“The more a brand’s intimate story
is defined, the stronger and more
authentic the connection becomes.”
While social media is an essential marketing
tool for Bianc, the company also relies on
more traditional marketing methods.
Bee Jewellery
“In the past year, we have focussed on
distributing physical catalogues to current
and potential stockists and this brought great
results,” said Bianca. “Our full
product list is available online
and we always encourage
people to call when placing
orders so we can develop a
personal relationship; when
they discuss their orders, they
also have the opportunity
to talk to someone who can
answer their questions. More
broadly, we always like to
represent both brands – Bianc
and Zahar -- at all trade fairs as
well as maintaining a strong
online presence. And of course, we advertise
in Jewellery World!”
Grant Menzies says that while Adina Watches
has always aimed for a loyal long-term
customer base, social media has become a
huge marketing asset.
“People start appreciating quality watches
at different stages in their lives,” said Grant.
“Some may have received their first Adina
when they started high school, for others it
may have been when they finished.
Others may have bought, or
been gifted their first Adina
to celebrate a specific
life milestone. Generally
speaking we find a person
will buy their first Adina for
themselves in the mid to
late 20s, and if we have done
on job right will stick with us
from then on. Social media has
become a very strong part of our
overall marketing mix as we use
different platforms to tell different stories,
all with the goal to build authenticity. The
affordability and accessibility of social media
gives a smaller brand like ours a stronger and
louder voice. One of the great things about
social media is the ability to create content
for our retailers that they are then able to
reshare in their community, all at no cost to
Social media is a
powerful platform to
share authentic stories,
to engage, entertain and
delight customers.
them. With the internet, consumers have
become more discerning as they have the
ability to research brands more thoroughly,
and a well-rounded social media strategy can
support this.”
Olivia Anderson stresses that any business
must have the brand’s purpose as the
foundation of its structure.
Zahar
“A compelling story and reason why will
engage customers and direct them from social
media to the store/ e-commerce platform,”
she said. “This is where the sales focus comes
in and the product becomes a hero.”
Ultimately, a strong brand needs consistency
of purpose in order to thrive in the long term,
along with the most important ingredient of
all – a range of high quality products, designed
to appeal to the current market.
May 2021 31

AT LAST! A FACE TO FACE JEWELLERY
EVENT IN BEAUTIFUL MELBOURNE-TOWN.
REGISTER NOW.
It’s an exciting day when you hear that the country’s domestic air travel is opening up
again to 100% capacity and we can start to catch up without feeling as though we might
need a hazard suit. The next financial year is looking bright and after the year that was,
it’s time to celebrate and enhance our businesses by connecting face to face.
So, mark in your diaries— the next
Jewellery Industry Fair. This fresh and
exciting event is bringing the industry
the first Hybrid Fair, with the live element of
the event taking place in Melbourne on the
1st and 2nd of August at The Timber Yard.
Over the years, the industry has
changed dramatically with
the number of independent
jewellers increasing all over
the country, representing the
demands and tastes of the
consumer who is driving a
change in jewellery style and
the way they buy from jewellers.
Ikecho
Ellendale
The most recent pandemic challenges have
amplified the need for jewellers to update
their digital offering, and now that Australia
and New Zealand are getting back to a new
normal, we are craving unique and exciting
experiences, both online and off.
The team at the Jewellery
Industry Fair certainly
promises to bring you that!
A fusion of traditional event
experiences and advanced
technology, the Fair will
give you a luxurious
event with activations
around every corner.
Supportive and United
With every consideration covered, the team
has chosen Melbourne to hold the event,
stating that ‘as Victoria was the hardest
hit during Covid, it was the right place to
hold the event so we could give back to the
state.’ The JIF will also have representation
from each of the industry associations, with
the GAA, JAA, NCJV and Goldsmith Guild in
attendance.
Range Building
For guests, the trip to Melbourne can be dual
purpose, with the Melbourne Gift Fair running
on the same weekend as the Jewellery
Industry Fair. The Fair team is even providing
free shuttle busses to and from the historic
Timber Yard to the Melbourne Convention
centre for guest convenience.
Guests will be given the perfect opportunity
to finalise their Christmas ranges at the JIF,
with the Fair timing allowing suppliers to
navigate any pandemic related shipping
concerns. Exhibitors are already planning
beautiful stands with new and interesting
displays for guests
to enjoy and absorb
their products.
New products,
new brands and
the ability to meet
with suppliers face
to face is sure to
inspire retailers
and jewellers when
shopping through
the Fair.
Celebrations
To celebrate not
only our return to live experiences, but also
many industry milestones, the Jewellery
Industry Fair will be a luxurious treat for the
senses. Roaming oyster butlers, champagne
32
jewellery world - May 2021

ANNOUNCING THE NEXT
Jewellery
Industry Fair
Melbourne
You are invited to attend the
Jewellery Industry Fair in Melbourne.
The Jewellery Industry Fair will be the
first Hybrid event of its kind, merging
traditional event experiences with
leading edge technology.
Our venue, an inner city oasis, will allow
you to travel between the Jewellery
Industry Fair and the Melbourne Gift Fair,
running on the same weekend, with free
shuttle buses provided.
Supporting Victoria as the hardest
hit state during 2020, the JIF is
also giving back to Australian
Jewellery Associations.
Prepare your ranges for Christmas — Luxurious setting
Fresh and engaging event — Built by Industry Members, for Industry Members
August 1 & 2
The Timber Yard — Melbourne
Register your ticket for the Fair at
jewelleryindustryfair.com

allow guests to see all available material from
those suppliers when it suits them. Guests will
be able to download brochures, see product
images and save order forms at the click of
a button after visiting their suppliers at their
booths in Melbourne.
Getting there
Guest registrations are open now via the
Jewellery Industry fair website, so log on
and register your free ticket to attend. With
airlines still offering 50% off many flights, now
is the time to grab a seat.
The Jewellery Industry Fair is set to be an
absolutely stunning event and is proudly built
by Industry Members, for Industry Members.
carts and live jewellery
experiences are also planned
to mark the beginning of the
buying season.
One truly remarkable milestone
to be celebrated at the Jewellery
Industry Fair, is the JAA’s 90th
Anniversary. This will coincide with
the JAA Jewellery Design Awards,
also running during the Melbourne
Jewellery Industry Fair. Entrants
will have their pieces on display
at the Fair and the JAA will be
hosting an event on Sunday
the 1st of August to celebrate
with industry friends and colleagues where
the winners of the design awards will be
announced.
Ellendale
Steeped in History
Like our own
stunning
industry, the
venue chosen
for the Jewellery
Industry Fair
has a deep
and interesting
history. The
Timber Yard
is one of
Melbourne’s
premier event
spaces and has been restored to remain true
to its heritage.
Cudworth Enterprises
The JIF will have onsite catering and the
Timber Yard bar open during the event for
guests to immerse themselves in the inner-city
oasis whilst they restock for Christmas.
The Jewellery Industry Fair
1st and 2nd August
Melbourne
Register your ticket at:
www.JewelleryIndustryFair.com
Ikecho
How Hybrid
With the digital assets built over the past eight
months by the Jewellery Industry Fair team,
the Melbourne JIF is set to be a Hybrid event,
with online tools supplied to each exhibitor to
34
jewellery world - May 2021

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS
Craig Miller
CEO, JC Jewels
www.jcjewels.com.au
ARE YOU SELLING
LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS?
Craig Miller of JC Jewels brings a new monthly column
on lab-grown diamonds to Jewellery World magazine.
Are you selling lab-grown diamonds? If
not, never say never. Have you been
asked for lab-grown diamonds? If not,
it’s only a matter of time.
Consumers are more open to lab-grown
diamonds than you might think. I was
one of the first in Australia to engage labgrown
diamonds and I’m keen to share my
knowledge with you as the category matures
in our local market.
Should lab-grown diamonds be
part of your offering?
Let me share a story from one of my clients – a
high-end jeweller in the CBD, he presents and
educates his clients on both lab-grown and
mined diamonds daily and recently sold a large
high quality CVD type IIa lab-grown diamond
to a first-time customer. This customer, a high
net worth individual, had been loyal to one
jeweller for over twenty years and purchased
diamond jewellery frequently. With an
important anniversary around the corner and
after reading about lab-grown, he engaged his
trusted jeweller with curiosity and questions
regarding these new diamonds only to be
told “I will not sell lab-grown diamonds in my
store”.
This decision and the body language that
accompanied this statement cost this jeweller
a twenty-year VIP client relationship as well
as the many referrals that always follow any
purchase. The customer referred to the tone
used, saying “My simple question could have
been an educational opportunity – instead
I was embarrassed and left the store for the
last time.” He quickly found a new jeweller
and today his wife shows off her beautiful
diamond ring that brings her and her husband
as much joy and satisfaction as her past mined
diamond purchases.
This customer was one of many who are open
minded and eager to learn.
The resistance to lab-grown diamonds is
coming from the trade not from the consumer
and as one of the first wholesalers to start
selling lab-grown in Australia I often hear this
first hand. Business owners make decisions
for their business – I don’t judge – but if you
ask me, lab-grown diamonds are here to stay.
I strongly advise my clients to get educated.
Learn about the category. Education is a
power. Once you know the facts you could
very well have a different view. Be open
minded – most customers are.
Never say never. Mining giant De Beers have
invested millions of dollars and proudly grow
and sell lab-grown diamonds. I’m not sure
anyone really knows their true agenda with
this but today they offer their lab-grown brand
on Blue Nile – that says a lot.
Retailers successfully selling lab-grown
diamonds report that almost 50 percent
of engagement sales this last quarter were
lab-grown.
Considering lab-grown diamonds
for the first time? Here is some
advice.
An increasing number of lab-grown dealers
are entering the market and some are better
than others. This distinction is critical. Ensure
you work with a trusted source.
Did you know that not all diamond growers
are the same? Anyone can buy the machinery,
but there's a shortage of scientists who know
how to grow high quality goods repeatedly.
There are growers with a focus on “as grown
goods” – that means with no additional
treatment. Some grow HPHT goods which may
not look as good as CVD type IIa goods. What
is important is knowing the facts when you
get started and this is where my company, JC
Jewels, can assist and ensure you always have
peace of mind. JC Jewels can take you directly
to the most reputable growers’ inventory
with no middlemen margins. Let us manage
the logistics for you and ensure you get the
education, biggest range of goods and the
best quality at the best price.
May 2021 35

RETAIL EDGE CONSULTANTS
Mike Dyer
Sales Manager
www.retailedgeconsultants.com.au
YOU CAN’T HIDE GOOD NEWS
Here’s something I often hear from suppliers. “How is it that retailers often order specific
designs from me that they haven’t stocked, or even say that they need to relook at our
range because they understand something is selling well. How do they know?”
Let me explain where they get this ‘cross counter
intelligence’ from.
In the first few days of each month, we gather data from around 400
participating jewellery retail stores across Australia and New Zealand.
That data is built into Buying Group SUPERstores (one for each of the
buying groups based on which one they are a member of). It creates
pooled information – not unlike a chain store would do.
Participating jewellery retailers with TheEDGE system can access this
information via their Edge Pulse cloud app and can select and filter
performance information from their pool on a supplier and/or product
category (department) level (not by individual store level other than
their own store).
They can also drill down to view the top performing items (by supplier
and design number) and filter by price range, (not at an individual store
level but at the pooled level). So as you can see, they have the ability to
see what specific designs are selling, even if they don’t currently stock
this supplier or item. The number of stores that have sold the item
and the quantity of that item sold in the last 12 months on a monthby-month
basis. That’s how they know what is selling and of course
this represents a very low risk shopping list for new products for the
retailer.
So, what value does this have for a supplier?
Good question. As a supplier there will be a number of your stockists
providing data into their Buying Group SUPERstore pools. As such your
best performing stock from these stockists are being viewed by other
members who may not currently be stockists. Your best performing
designs are being shown to stockists who may not currently stock that
specific item. Either way it represents opportunity … for the supplier
AND the retailer.
It would make good business sense for suppliers to encourage stockists
to participate in their Buying Group SUPERstore as well given the
benefit of highlighting your better performing product to potential new
stockists looking for product that sells.
What the last 12 months has certainly done is challenge the way
we did a number of things historically in a normal routine. The way
suppliers interact with retailers in light of border closures is a good
example. Some of the solutions are easy, like Zoom meetings and the
like, but knowing what stock a retailer has sold and what is left was
usually part of the discovery on a rep visit. Ever heard a retailer say,
“yes, I was waiting on you to come so I could order some things”?
Now there is a way to get visibility on your stock (sales and stock-onhand)
from your stockists. All live, in your office. It’s called Vendor
Pulse and it can surmount the challenges of time, distance, borders,
and technology challenged retailer’s ability to get information to you.
Want to put a range into store on appro, but you also want to have
visibility on it for security, for performance measurement and for
replacement and payment? Yes, you can see your stock data live, in
your office, or on the road.
This business tool for suppliers can help them and their stockist
partners understand sell thru, stock bubbles (how many of a design are
sitting on stockists shelves), impending shortages (how many stockists
have zero on hand of a design and have not reordered it yet, but when
they do how that will impact your stock-on-hand) and more, right
down at a design number level.
Want to know more? Just contact me
Email: mike@retailedgeconsultants.com or Ph 07 5574 0322
36
jewellery world - May 2021

TAFE NSW
GRADUATE
SPARKLES
AT CERRONE
JEWELLERS
Former engineer and Waterloo local May
Hua has outshone the competition to gain a
coveted role as a designer at the prestigious
Cerrone Jewellers.
May Hua grew up with a love of drawing and
design but, as sometimes happens, she found
herself on a different career path.
“After I graduated from my master's degree
in engineering, I took stock of my career
trajectory and actually realised I had a real
talent and passion for design. I didn’t want to
waste any more time on a career I didn’t love
so I made up my mind to become qualified
and begin my new path,” Ms Hua said.
“I considered a masters in jewellery design,
but I wanted to make sure I could get a job
after I graduated and found the relationships
TAFE NSW established with industry would
help me get my foot in the door quicker than
studying at university.”
Ms Hua enrolled in the Certificate II followed
by the Certificate III in jewellery manufacture
at TAFE NSW Design Centre Enmore and was
impressed by the hands-on nature of the
work.
“Because I was able to spend so much
practical time honing my craft in the studio, I
graduated ready to walk straight into a job,”
Ms Hua said.
Ms Hua completed the qualification in
December 2020 and through TAFE NSW
was offered a position at Cerrone Jewellers.
Ms Hua is one of six TAFE NSW graduates
employed by Cerrone, which is highly
regarded for its bespoke designs and boasts
the largest handmade jewellery workshop in
Australia.
Managing director of Cerrone Jewellers, Mr
Nic Cerrone, said when they are looking for
like-minded employees who have a passion for
jewellery, TAFE NSW always delivers workers
with the skills and dynamism they are looking
for.
“Cerrone has been working with TAFE NSW in
offering graduates full time employment for
over 30 years,” Mr Cerrone said.
“Cultivating the younger generations to
continue to art of the jewellery trade has
always been a priority for Cerrone and TAFE
NSW graduates come to us with fresh and
new ideas and skills as well as an enthusiasm
and passion to learn.”
It’s a perfect time to enter the sector, with
the watch and jewellery retailing industry
projected to grow over the next five years due
to anticipated rises in discretionary incomes
and consumer sentiment.
TAFE NSW head teacher of jewellery
manufacture and design Gina Kind said
the Certificate III in jewellery manufacture
provides students with hands-on skills in all
aspects of jewellery fabrication in custom
artist studios so students graduate ready for a
career in the industry.
“Our industry connections mean we are
always looking for employment opportunities
for our students so many finish the course and
go directly into a job,” Ms Kind said.
“Longstanding relationships with businesses
like Cerrone mean they often come straight to
TAFE NSW seeking fresh talent.”
www.tafensw.edu.au
May 2021 37

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Some of 75 attendees from 25 countries after Advanced Practical Diamond workshops with Branko Deljanin at MGJ
Conference in Cyprus 2019. Photo: George Spyromilios, IGL Greece.
Live web series for
diamond identification
Hosting eight renowned diamond researchers from
across the globe, the Advanced Diamond Online
Academy debuts a diamond diagnosis series.
An international diamond educational web series was launched in April with
the Advanced Diamond Online Academy by BrankoGems.com. Scheduled
to drop at various times, the web seminars feature eight of the world’s
leading scientific, diamond- focused minds. The introductory seminar by
John Chapman of Gemetrix, Australia has been available as a free download
since the end of February 2021 by visiting www.BrankoGems.com. Hailing
from Australia, Canada, China, Russia, Switzerland and the USA, the team of
gemmological experts offer a dynamic, hour-long diamond discussion.
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The lecture series debut focuses on a common concern for diamond
professionals and jewellery retailers worldwide: the need to quickly and
accurately identify lab-grown and treated diamonds and screen colour
origin of coloured diamonds, especially at the point-of-sale. Blockchain
technology may identify a natural diamond’s origination but full disclosure
moves natural, man-made and treated diamonds from counters to
consumers. Wherever a diamond is sold, trust precedes the sale, and trust
aligns with safe and secure diamond detection.

ATHAN
IMPORTERS OF
FINE ITALIAN
JEWELLERY
18CT SPECIALISTS
The array of diamond gear to
handle this job is a clutter of
confusion. Enter the Advanced
Diamond Online Academy offering
results and recommendations
tested on over 15 devices with
over 100 diamonds of various
origins.
ANGER
noted Branko Deljanin, president
“Today’s diamond trade has
specific needs when determining
the type of diamond being tested,”
and head gemmologist at CGL
Canadian Gemlab and founder
of Branko Gems. “Be it loose or
mounted, white or fancy, the ability to confirm if a diamond is mined,
treated or man-made is a critical criterion. This is why we’re opening our
advanced diamond education program with this topic after 10 years of
offering practical workshops in 17 countries worldwide.”
Backed by decades of diamond expertise starting with GIA to
co-authoring with Dusan Simic (AG&J, USA) a series of popular
publications including Laboratory Grown Diamonds Information Guide
to HPHT and CVD Grown Diamonds, Deljanin is a frequent industry
event headliner, and the chairperson of the Mediterranean Gem and
Jewellery Conference. As the host of popular online gemmological
webinars since 2019, Deljanin offers live interaction with sought-after
scientists, university professors, diamond researchers and gemmological
lab pioneers the world over.
The lecture series is set to run until June 2021 and will included Dr.
Alexander Zaitsev of New York University; Mikko Astrom of MAGILABS,
Finland; Dr. Thomas Hainschwang of GGTL Laboratories, Lichtenstein/
Switzerland; Dr. Taijin Lu of NGTC laboratory, China, and Dr. Viktor Vins of
Velman in Russia will discuss diamond detection and defects.
Attendees of a single lecture will receive a letter of attendance while
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Register today and catch up on previous lectures at
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PANDEMIC HIGHLIGHTS
IMPORTANCE OF ON-LINE
PRESENCE FOR DIAMOND
JEWELLERY RETAILERS
The pandemic has taken a negative toll on many industries but there have been some
positives for the diamond sector, according to President of ALTR Created Diamonds,
Amish Shah, who observed that diamond jewellery has been one of the most desirable
gifts during the Covid-19 period. Here Mr Shah responds to a series of questions on the
diamond industry, referencing the Bain & Co Global Diamond Report 2020-2021.
In 2020, rough diamond
production decreased by 20%
compared with 2019 levels. Last
year, rough and polished prices
fell by 11% and 3% respectively.
The mix of diamonds remained
largely constant with medium and
large diamonds accounting for 25%
of production volume in carats
but around 70 – 80% value in US
dollars. Can you elaborate?
The rough diamond production in the last few
years has seen a decline in certain articles as
various mines, to the best of my knowledge,
are on the verge of closure and certain mines
have already had to close last year due to
profitability. When we look at the Earth-mined
category there is also one new shift that we’ve
seen that has affected Earth-mined diamonds
coming to the marketplace as well as their
consumption. Lab-grown diamonds and their
increased consumer acceptance has made
a direct impact on the pricing as well as the
need for the same amount of supply that it
had in the past.
Each year there is more Earth-mined diamond
rough being brought into the marketplace
than is actually consumed for fine jewellery
and sold in stores. This increased disparity has
had a direct impact on pricing.
How did the onset of Covid-
19 affect the diamond mining
companies and their production
output?
During the Covid-19 pandemic a lot of
the mining companies had to put a hold
on production not only because of social
distancing issues but also due to the
moratorium that the Indian manufacturers
put into effect. This moratorium requested
every importer of diamond rough to stop
importing any new Earth-mined diamond
rough into India for manufacturing. This
had a direct impact and forced the hands of
miners to either stop production or stockpile
the supply on their side. So, when you
sum it up, the impact has come from low
consumer consumption from the pandemic,
the moratorium from manufacturers, a sense
of awaking by the midstream for the lack of
margin, and the excess supply on the Earthmined
side. As lab-grown diamonds continue
to increase in acceptance and consumption,
the boat on which the Earth-mined diamonds
have sailed on until now has started to get
more rocky than ever.
40
jewellery world - May 2021

The pandemic saw the enforcement
of travel restrictions and
lockdowns throughout the world.
What sort of changes occurred
within the traditional diamond
supply chain as a result of this
extraordinary event?
The travel restrictions and lockdowns at the
various mining, lab grown production centres,
and the cutting centres had a direct impact
on the entire supply chain. As we are aware,
the second and third quarter of 2020 saw little
to no diamond cutting or polishing coming
out of India which happens to be where over
90% of the world’s supply comes from. This
was further amplified by the moratorium that
the Indian manufacturers put on Earth-mined
diamond rough imports.
The positive impact that came out of the
pandemic, after the destruction in all the
supply chains, has been a clean-up of the
existing inventory that was accessible at
the national distribution centres of various
countries as well as how the local retailers sold
what they had in stock and only reordered
what they needed from all the inventory that
was accessible. It also led to a positive cash
flow for the retailers and the distributors by
lowering their inventory. While the world sees
the pandemic in a negative way, the diamond
industry capitalized on its cash flow situation.
The cash flow of the diamond industry got
positive at the retailer and distributor levels
and will have a very positive impact in 2021 as
distributors and retailers start restocking for
the return of the consumer to their stores and
online websites.
How did Covid-19 change
consumer behaviour in the way
purchases of diamond jewellery
were made?
Diamond jewellery was one of the most
desirable gifts during the Covid-19 period.
Consumers were locked behind doors
anywhere from one to six months with
their loved ones. This allowed and forced
them to connect with their loved ones and
spend time understanding the value of
relationships. The world had come to a stop
and the only ones they had around were
the ones they loved. This directly impacted
various categories of consumer products that
have always represented love and emotion.
Jewellery specifically has always been a
symbol of love and emotion and been gifted
or self-purchased for special moments in life.
Jewellery sales from the third quarter of 2020
peaked for retailers as consumers bought
online and at curb side for their loved ones
far and near. This helped the retail jewellery
industry to meet their numbers for 2020 that
they had originally planned for in spite of the
pandemic.
What impact did the lockdowns
and cross-border restrictions have
on wholesale diamond sales and
diamond jewellery sales though
brick-and-mortar jewellery
outlets?
The positive impact for loose diamond sales
and jewellery to the wholesale distributors
in various countries was that the jewellery
outlets that they serviced purchased what
was accessible and in-stock. The value of
the stock during this period went up and the
discounting on product went down.
The brick-and-mortar stores that had a web
presence did far better than the ones that did
not. In the last decade, the jewellery industry
ALTR Created Diamonds is the world’s leading lab-grown diamond company. It is a
division of the R.A. Riam Group, a wholesaler jeweller based in New York City with
85 years’ experience in the diamond and fine jewellery industry. ALTR replicates
the conditions where diamonds form in nature, and produces certified Type IIA lab
grown diamonds that are identical to mined diamonds in chemical, optical and
physical composition.ALTR Created Diamonds was launched at the JCK Las Vegas
trade show in 2016. For more information, visit www.altr.nyc.
May 2021 41

has shied away from making investments
as well as allowing their business to get
technologically advanced. They preferred
the experience in the stores and felt more
in control. These stores felt the pain as the
consumers who wanted to buy from them
could no longer communicate except through
video meetings and curb side pickups. The
stores who had robust websites, high quality
photography, and a wide inventory online that
represented what they carried in stores did
far better because their existing customers
as well as new customers felt confident and
comfortable making those purchases. One
thing that happened which was also learned
by the diamond and jewellery industry during
this period was the importance of branding
and brands. Branded luxury sales during this
time, including jewellery, was up double digits
for 2020. Consumers felt more confident
about the brand and the product.
The pandemic created more
opportunities for online sales of
diamond jewellery during 2020.
What are your projections for sales
of diamond jewellery via online
platforms?
The omnichannel business model where
the experience of the store is further
connected online, enhanced retail sales for
the engagement category by almost 50%.
The retail engagement ring sales in 2020
grew from 14% online to 21%. The fashion
category numbers are even more aggressive.
These numbers in 2021 to 2023 will further
grow as more retailers realize the importance
of improving the consumer experience by
using technology as well as shifting consumer
behaviour. The key focus for the retail
jewellery community is now to guardrail their
consumers between the online and offline
presence.
year and where is the bulk of the
production coming from?
The production of lab-grown diamonds from
2016 to 2021 has grown in multiple ways.
Each year the production for all sizes doubled.
What matters more is consumer acceptance
and the speed at which that has happened. It
has consistently beaten production speed and
hence created a shortage for larger lab-grown
diamonds.
The production for 2020 was around 6 million
carats split between India and China. A larger
number of the smaller diamonds come from
China while the finer larger diamonds are
coming from very limited producers in India.
Where is the innovation occurring
in the lab-grown diamond sector?
What has been the consumer
experience in relation to premium
branded lab-grown diamonds?
Technology is a constantly evolving world.
Lab-grown diamonds have grown in size
and quality in the last five years. Producers
that have been focused on one carat are
now focused between two and four carat
production. Beautiful pinks, blues, canaries,
and various coloured diamonds are going
to be the norm in the next few years. While
the production of lab-grown diamonds are
growing in quality and quantity, one of the
noticeable areas is the growth of the premium
lab-grown diamond that the consumer is
connecting with. Today’s consumer wants
to know everything about the diamond
from where it came from, the social and
environmental impact of the components to
make the jewellery, and finally the brand that
is delivering the product with expedience.
There is an emergence of premium brands
that are starting to focus on these key
consumer trends. I firmly believe that the labgrown
category will further elevate the level of
luxury that diamonds haven’t seen before.
An increased focus on
environmental and sustainable
practices today is impacting
on diamond choices. Price and
ethical concerns are driving sales
in the lab-grown diamond sector.
The report showed a significant
increase in the production of
lab-grown diamonds in 2019.
What were production levels last
42
jewellery world - May 2021

What are your projections for this
category?
Authenticity and transparency are key to
today’s consumer. While size plays a very
strong role in the lab-grown diamond sales,
the most important thing is the consumer
confidence in the product. They are seeing
the value along with authenticity and
transparency that they have always asked for.
Lab-grown diamonds also respond to today’s
consumer who feels socially conscious and
environmentally responsible. Sales of labgrown
diamonds, in spite of the pandemic,
exceeded my expectations. The growth of the
category has been very clear and will double
in sales as a wide range of consumers will have
increased access. The lab-grown diamond
jewellery category is still in its infancy and
will explode in the next 18 months. The way I
see it long term, is that a very wide group of
consumers will now be able to access larger
and more beautiful diamonds and will lead
to the growth of the diamond category as a
whole.
What marketing strategies for
diamond jewellery proved effective
during the pandemic? Are these
likely to be adopted going forward?
Education is the key to consumer
confidence. Retailers that used technology to
communicate products and knowledge to the
consumers have seen a higher closing ratio
and increased spending. I believe this is the
way of the future and will only be enhanced.
What are the long term structural
changes that have been applied to
the diamond industry as a result of
the pandemic?
The most exciting part of the pandemic was
forcing an archaic industry to understand the
value of technology and experience to the
consumer. It also explained to the diamond
and jewellery industry the importance of
brand marketing, education of products,
compliance and being socially responsible.
These changes are going to be permanent and
the key to the growth of this industry.
How is price and aspiration
influencing the diamond selections
consumers are making today?
The consumer is exercising their right to
choice, along with a synchronized pricing
model between demand and supply for the
first time in the diamond industry. The myth
of rarity is broken, and consumers have begun
asking questions about the education they
have received. They are connecting with
larger and beautiful lab-grown diamonds. This
process of democratising luxury with improved
economic scale in the manufacturing of
lab-grown diamonds is going to provide the
widest consumer space the diamond industry
has ever seen. I’ve heard in the last decade
that today’s women don’t want to wear large
diamonds. Today I smile knowing that those
women are wearing and aspiring for larger
and more beautiful lab-grown diamonds. The
trade forgot it’s not that they didn’t want
larger diamonds, but rather that they were
simply not accessible until now.
What are your projections for the
diamond industry going forward?
The diamond industry overall is going to see
very positive growth in the next five years.
Innovation will be the key factor from product
to process, from trading to platforms, and
from stores to online. Every member of the
industry that evolves and brings change that
is required of their business will see growth in
the next five years. The consumer behaviour
has grown and will further evolve as every
industry will work harder and harder for the
dollar.
May 2021 43

KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE
How To Make A Shank Punch
Jewellers will often have to make specialised tools for certain
tasks. For sizing stone set rings up, you can solder a piece into the
shank or if it’s only one or two sizes and the shank isn’t too worn,
you can stretch it to size.
In this tutorial you will learn how to make a specially shaped
punch for sizing rings.
1The ring stretcher device (pictured)
is ideal for sizing stone set rings
up one or two sizes. It comes with
a selection of dies with different
shank profiles that you tighten onto the
shank and roll around until it reaches
the right size. This is handy for quick
solderless size jobs, but it can distort the
shank if not used properly.
2
Using a shank punch can eliminate
the risk of over-stretching or
damaging the shank.
You will need a section of tool
steel that is approximately 8mm in
diameter x 60mm long. Heat one end
until it turns a bright red colour. Allow it
to air cool. This will soften the working
end of the steel.
3
Once it has cooled, use grip
locking pliers to hold it and begin
to hammer the softened end on
an anvil or solid flat base. Use
the biggest hammer you’ve got. A lump
hammer will be ideal.
Remember health and safety. Make sure
you use ear protectors.
4
The end will begin to forge flatter
and spread wider. You will also
notice that the end will form into
a curve that will be slightly concaved.
This will help as it is close to the final
shape we need, so it will make the next
stage easier.
5
The steel will still be soft enough
to file, but don’t use your best
files, use an old #2 cut flat file or
courser to file a slight curve to the end.
Then use the edge of your file to begin
to form the shank groove.
6
You can make a variety of shank
punches with different width
grooves. This shank punch will be
for 3mm – 3.5mm wide shanks, so I am
using a 3.5mm round bur to shape the
groove. I recommend that you also make
a punch with a 2mm groove for finer
shanks.
44
jewellery world - May 2021

7
Check the profile of your punch
on a ring shank by rolling it
around, then continue shaping
the groove if it doesn’t fit neatly enough.
You could also use a round needle file
for the final shaping.
8
Remove all tool marks from the
working surface of the punch with
emery paper. The better the finish
you achieve on the tool, the better your
ring shank will look and will require less
finishing work.
9
The punch now needs to be
hardened.
Heat the punch up until it is bright
red then quench it in water. Quenching
in oil will give a better result but it does
come with a fire hazard risk and it’s not
really necessary for small jobs like this.
The working end of the punch will now
be hardened, but it will also be brittle
and may crack during use.
10
We now need to temper it. But
before applying heat again,
sand the surface of the steel
back to remove the oxides so
that you can monitor the colour change.
Heat the working end of the punch to
around 375°F/ 191°C. When the metal at
the tip turns to a brownie straw colour it will
slightly soften the metal alloys and become
tempered. Cool it quickly before the colour
changes further.
11efficient it is for ring stretching
Now you can test out the
punch and see for yourself how
and shaping. Make a silver
or brass ring. This could even be a flat
profile. Hammer the punch around the
ring to change the profile and size of the
ring. With practise you will find that the
shank will need very little extra work to
finish it off.
12
You can also use this tool
during the manufacturing
process by pre shaping shank
wire before forming the ring.
The other benefit of using this tool is
that it will harden the ring shank as well
as stretch it, adding longevity to the
ring. For the best results, avoid sizing
old rings at the most worn point at the
bottom. Stretch the ring from the sides
of the shank.
Peter Keep is a
master jeweller
and teacher. He
offers structured
online courses
that have helped
thousands of
students around
the world improve
their skills.
Jewellery Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service
including the very popular Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.
For the video tutorial go to
https://jewellery-training-solutions.thinkific.com/courses/shank-punch
Check out the other courses and options:
www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au
May 2021 45

VALE GRAHAM DAVIES
Graham Davies, former managing director of The Swatch Group Australia,
passed away recently at the age of 83 after a long illness. He has been
described as “a real force in the watch industry” and a respected leader
who gave all members of his team a chance to excel.
Leaving a background in advertising, Graham joined Precision
Watches in 1972 as Sales Promotion Manager. Appointed to
promote the 125th Anniversary of Omega, Graham devised a
campaign to celebrate this milestone with the launch of the Omega
WorldWide Competition in Readers Digest magazine.
“The promotion Graham created was the most successful of all Omega
agents around the globe,” former colleague, Robert Blennerhassett
recalled.
Graham’s success in raising the profile of Omega saw him elevated
to general manager and then, in the late ‘70s, appointed managing
director of the business.
“When Graham joined the company, we were Omega and Tissot
distributors only. These brands became industry leaders in advertising
and merchandising. I remember Graham running full page Omega ads
in the late ‘70s for digital watches as part of an aggressive campaign to
drive sales and build brand awareness,” former colleague, Bruce Grinter
said.
“Over the years, other company brands wanted to leverage the sales
success Graham had helped build for Omega and Tissot. We then took
on board Longines, Rado, Swatch, Flik Flak and Certina.”
Precision Watches Pty Ltd underwent several changes in name as
different takeovers occurred in Switzerland, transitioning to SSIH, then
SMH and finally The Swatch Group. Graham remained a stabilising
presence throughout these periods of change, spending almost 30
years at the company. He left The Swatch Group in 2001 and retired.
Many Australian retailers gained a valuable insight into the Swiss watch
industry because of Graham’s efforts.
“Back in the early days, very few local Australian jewellers had travelled
to Switzerland to visit the watch companies. So, Graham organised
a tour of the Omega and Tissot headquarters for our key retailers,
with the aim of building further confidence in our brands and thereby
ensuring watches became an integral part of their overall business,” Mr
Grinter explained.
He recalled how top jewellers would often visit Graham at his
Melbourne office where he would stress the value of brand
identification in their stores. These discussions led to many jewellers
installing Omega selling counters, an early precursor to the branded
boutique installations that are now the hallmark of luxury watch
retailers in Australia.
46
jewellery world - May 2021

Graham championed regular instore sales training for all company
brands, along with the launch of a tremendously successful annual
roadshow to demonstrate the depth and strength of The Swatch
Group stable. “The exhibition-style event travelled to most capital
cities across Australia to showcase our latest collections and
campaigns. It became a must-attend event for all retail partners
and their staff,” Mr Grinter said.
Graham was also quick to recognise the power of celebrity and
sporting ambassadors in helping build the success of his brands.
He was proud to be the first brand to sign future swimming
champion Ian Thorpe as a 14-year-old, with Omega providing
him a scholarship in the lead-up to the Sydney 2000 Olympics, a
partnership that spanned many years.
Mr Blennerhassett enjoyed a strong working relationship with
Graham for almost 30 years, travelling the world together for
various brand conferences, promotions and the Basle Fair.
“Graham understood the importance of building strong working
relationships with our brands and retail partnersand was
instrumental in raising the profile of the Australian watch market
with our Swiss colleagues. He facilitated countless visits of
local retailers to Switzerland, recognising the value of first-class
hospitality and the goodwill and strong sales it helped to generate.
The constant travelling was often gruelling and exceptionally hard
work, but we played hard as well,” he said.
Known to be exceptionally fair to his staff, Graham treated them
like family and was immensely proud of the fact that at one
stage, over 50 per cent of the staff had at least 20 years’ service.
Although he was a very private man, Graham often spoke of the
inspiration and wise counsel he drew from his wife, Annette.
“His office door was always open, and he was a great listener to
new ideas. He was fastidious about the finer details and I’m sure
that all of his colleagues would remember him saying more than
once when working on a project: ‘Check it, check it again and
check it again after that’,” former colleague, Rory Cowan said.
“It’s his presence I will remember most,” says another former
colleague, Antoinette Byrne. “He was old school, traditional and
softly spoken. He often didn’t have to speak for you to know what
he was thinking: a simple nod of the head meant you’d done well;
a bowed head meant you needed to do better. You had to work
exceptionally hard to earn his trust and respect. Once you had it,
he backed you 100 per cent.”
Mr Blennerhassett is grateful for his long, enduring friendship with
Graham. “I will miss talking to him now that he has passed on, but
I am sure that he will be looking down on us and smiling.”
Graham is survived by his wife, Annette, sons Philip and Andrew,
and seven grandchildren.
Seiko recreates its
first Alpinist watch
It was in 1959 that Seiko’s first Alpinist
watch was introduced to meet the needs of
mountain climbers and recreational field sports
enthusiasts. Remarkably, it was the first Seiko
watch ever produced with sports in mind and
it blazed a trail that led to the development
of many landmark timepieces and timing
devices for sports, from stopwatches to diver’s
watches, in the decades that followed.
Now, the first Alpinist watch from 1959 is re-born in a
re-creation that has the high functionality that characterises
the Prospex collection, whose very existence owes so much to
the first 1959 Alpinist.
While the re-creation is faithful to the
original design, it has been brought right
up to date in technology and has the
high specifications and functionality
for which Prospex is renowned. It now
incorporates a date window between
four and five o’clock and is water
resistant to 10 bar.
The box-shaped sapphire crystal is
treated with an anti-reflective coating
on the inner surface, delivering high
legibility. The watch is powered by the
slimline Calibre 6L35 which has a power
reserve of 45 hours. Despite the addition
of a date and the enhanced performance,
the case is just 1.0mm thicker.
May 2021 47

NEW PRODUCTS
Ellendale Diamond Australia | Desert Rose Jewellery | Oriella Collection
A collection inspired by nature featuring stunning unique Argyle pink diamonds.
A contemporary 18kt white/rose gold perpetual circular pendant, showcasing a bezel set
round brilliant cut Argyle purple pink diamond 7PP complimented with 6 round brilliant
cut Argyle pink champagne diamonds PC2 0.09ct and accented with 25 round brilliant cut
diamonds F SI 0.37 carats. Product code: EDJP044
An elegant 18ct white/rose gold pear shape pendant, claw set with 31 round brilliant cut G+
SI2 0.31carats. Featuring a bezel set Argyle round brilliant cut purple pink diamond (7PP) SIAV
0.083ct. Product code: EDJP040
Visit our website to view the complete collection and please contact us for any enquires and
jewellery catalogues.
+61 8 6111 1961
ellendalediamonds.com.au
Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525
New to the Ellani Collections AW21 release, modern
on-trend stainless steel designs.
www.ellanicollections.com.au
Pastiche | +61 2 9452 4981
Stylish, high quality sterling silver and gold plated stainless steel
necklaces from Pastiche are always good sellers.
www.pastiche.com.au
48
jewellery world - May 2021

NEW PRODUCTS
Ikecho | +61 2 9266 0636
9ct yellow gold freshwater pearl
Baroque nucleated 13mm+
necklace 45cm.
www.ikecho.com.au
Jewellery Centre | +61 7 3221 3838
Sterling silver Eye of Horus earwires and pendant
(EW1268 & P1268)
Sterling silver tension bangle (BJ1607 –
avail.60mm & 66mm inside diameter)
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com
Gerrim | 1800GERRIM
Life is beautiful with Gerrim.
9ct three piece collections reminiscent of a bygone era
featuring aquamarine, rhodolite and diamond – The Gatsby
Collection, Code 142.
The Empress Collection – resplendent in its glory featuring
London Blue topaz, ruby and diamond. Code 139.
sales@gerrim.com
www.gerrim.com
Worth & Douglas | +61 3 9338 0091
Continuing the nautical explorations of the past summer, the latest
additions from Karen Walker Jewellery’s collection The Navigator see
the classic bow reinvented – this time knotted just so from sailing rope
and with the sea-salty addition of
dainty cream freshwater pearls
to create the Love Knot. These
prettily tied knots hang from
necklaces, sleeper earrings and
feature atop a super-fine ring
available in sterling silver, 9 carat
rose and 9 carat yellow gold.
sales@worthdouglas.com.au
www.worthdouglas.com
May 2021 49

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All size ads are available and may include product
photos. Visit our website to download our media pack
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for sale
FOR SALE
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M: +61 491 174 922
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Are you Jewellery
World's biggest joker?
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a giggle, a real shiner to share?
Fed up with the lame efforts we
publish here? Send us something
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Send your joke to jeremy@
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50
jewellery world - May 2021

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