Jewellery World Magazine - May 2021

KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE
How To Make A Shank Punch
Jewellers will often have to make specialised tools for certain
tasks. For sizing stone set rings up, you can solder a piece into the
shank or if it’s only one or two sizes and the shank isn’t too worn,
you can stretch it to size.
In this tutorial you will learn how to make a specially shaped
punch for sizing rings.
1The ring stretcher device (pictured)
is ideal for sizing stone set rings
up one or two sizes. It comes with
a selection of dies with different
shank profiles that you tighten onto the
shank and roll around until it reaches
the right size. This is handy for quick
solderless size jobs, but it can distort the
shank if not used properly.
2
Using a shank punch can eliminate
the risk of over-stretching or
damaging the shank.
You will need a section of tool
steel that is approximately 8mm in
diameter x 60mm long. Heat one end
until it turns a bright red colour. Allow it
to air cool. This will soften the working
end of the steel.
3
Once it has cooled, use grip
locking pliers to hold it and begin
to hammer the softened end on
an anvil or solid flat base. Use
the biggest hammer you’ve got. A lump
hammer will be ideal.
Remember health and safety. Make sure
you use ear protectors.
4
The end will begin to forge flatter
and spread wider. You will also
notice that the end will form into
a curve that will be slightly concaved.
This will help as it is close to the final
shape we need, so it will make the next
stage easier.
5
The steel will still be soft enough
to file, but don’t use your best
files, use an old #2 cut flat file or
courser to file a slight curve to the end.
Then use the edge of your file to begin
to form the shank groove.
6
You can make a variety of shank
punches with different width
grooves. This shank punch will be
for 3mm – 3.5mm wide shanks, so I am
using a 3.5mm round bur to shape the
groove. I recommend that you also make
a punch with a 2mm groove for finer
shanks.
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jewellery world - May 2021