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TENSION & COMPRESSION

Folds are created when cloth is in either tension or compression. Hanging folds

(pipe fold and swag fold) occur when fabric is in tension and being held up

against the pull of gravity. Compression folds (interlocking fold and spiral fold)

are created when fabric is pushed together and begins to bunch up on itself.

Tension and compression are often both present to create a fold. Hybrid

folds (zigzag fold and billowing fold) are created when both tension and

compression forces are acting on the cloth.

DRAPING FABRIC

As this woman gathers up the

slack in her dress, she creates

a hanging swag fold as it

drapes between her hip

and where she holds

it in her hand.

STRETCHING

FABRIC

Notice how

the long skirt is

stretched between

the two legs. This

tension is stretching

the fabric and forcing

it to ride close to the

woman’s contours.

COMPRESSING FABRIC

The fabric in the sleeves is largely

under compression as gravity pulls

it back down the outstretched arms.

Spiral folds become more prominent

as the fabric folds around itself

at the shoulder.

HANGING FABRIC

This man has rotated his

shoulders forward, causing

his shirt to compress and

gather across his front. At

the same time, the fabric is

pulled down by gravity and

forms pipe folds as it drops

down from his shoulders.

Both lateral compression

and vertical tension go into

creating this fold pattern.

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