Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
IMAGE Clockwise from left ChiccoDodiFC/Getty Images, Christina Vartanova/Getty Images, baianliang/Getty Images<br />
Clockwise from left Have the best of<br />
both worlds by growing citrus under<br />
cover in winter and freeing up your<br />
growing space by moving them<br />
outdoors in summer; Greenhouse<br />
shelving means you can bring in extra<br />
little citrus plants over the coldest<br />
months; In under-cover spaces careful<br />
pruning is essential to create airflow.<br />
Spacing<br />
Dwarf citrus do best if planted 2m apart, but in a<br />
greenhouse situation (especially if you are using<br />
the space only to hold potted plants that will be<br />
moved out over summer) you can close up the<br />
gap a little. If you decide to do this, you will need<br />
to keep the trees well fertilised and carefully<br />
pruned to ensure adequate air movement<br />
through the branches, and be on hand to manage<br />
vents and windows.<br />
Care<br />
The secret to cosseting your under-cover dwarf<br />
citrus is to slow down on the watering (although<br />
a little each day is far better than a soaking every<br />
week or two). And, contrary to what your instincts<br />
might tell you about a fruit tree surviving through<br />
winter, give the dwarf trees a little citrus fertiliser<br />
each week to 10 days. If leaves are beginning to<br />
yellow, feed with liquid magnesium chelate as it<br />
assists the plants in taking up nutrients.<br />
Although dwarf citrus will appreciate the heat<br />
of a greenhouse in cooler regions, it won’t thank<br />
you for significant fluctuations in temperature –<br />
something that is very possible in the greenhouse<br />
situation where one minute you have a frost<br />
settling on the ground, and the next you have a<br />
cloudless sky and heat beating in through the<br />
plastic or glass. Create an even temperature by<br />
attending to ventilation (use doors as well as<br />
windows and vents, but be sure to net doors<br />
where birds may prove a problem to the fruit).<br />
Pruning<br />
Pruning is essential if you are to keep the trees<br />
small to allow for air circulation, and to ensure<br />
they don’t reach beyond picking height (you<br />
don’t want to be using ladders or standing<br />
on chairs to reach fruit in your fragile glass or<br />
plastic environment). A trim also increases fruit<br />
yields and cuts down on the likelihood of heavy<br />
branches snapping off with the weight of the<br />
harvest. Pruning of under-cover citrus can be<br />
done at any time of year, but late winter and<br />
early spring is best. Whenever you decide to<br />
do it, wait until after the fruit has set (in case<br />
the delicate tiny fruitlets are knocked off or<br />
you accidentally cut off a branch with young<br />
fruit growing on it). If your trees are growing<br />
in pots that are to be moved out when the<br />
world warms up, think carefully about pruning<br />
so that the plants will fit out the greenhouse<br />
door (think “height” as well as “width”). As you<br />
prune, try to cut out all but six of the lateral<br />
branches, as this will encourage fruiting.<br />
When pruning dwarf citrus, it’s important to<br />
pay close attention to any suckers appearing<br />
below the graft. The rootstock is quite capable<br />
of throwing out these suckers and, before you<br />
know it, the unwanted growth has taken over<br />
from the grafted wood. If the graft is no longer<br />
visible (as can happen when trees mature)<br />
learn to recognise the rootstock by its sharp<br />
thorns (another reason for snipping them off<br />
sooner rather than later).<br />
54 kiwigardener gardener.kiwi