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IMAGE Clockwise from left ChiccoDodiFC/Getty Images, Christina Vartanova/Getty Images, baianliang/Getty Images<br />

Clockwise from left Have the best of<br />

both worlds by growing citrus under<br />

cover in winter and freeing up your<br />

growing space by moving them<br />

outdoors in summer; Greenhouse<br />

shelving means you can bring in extra<br />

little citrus plants over the coldest<br />

months; In under-cover spaces careful<br />

pruning is essential to create airflow.<br />

Spacing<br />

Dwarf citrus do best if planted 2m apart, but in a<br />

greenhouse situation (especially if you are using<br />

the space only to hold potted plants that will be<br />

moved out over summer) you can close up the<br />

gap a little. If you decide to do this, you will need<br />

to keep the trees well fertilised and carefully<br />

pruned to ensure adequate air movement<br />

through the branches, and be on hand to manage<br />

vents and windows.<br />

Care<br />

The secret to cosseting your under-cover dwarf<br />

citrus is to slow down on the watering (although<br />

a little each day is far better than a soaking every<br />

week or two). And, contrary to what your instincts<br />

might tell you about a fruit tree surviving through<br />

winter, give the dwarf trees a little citrus fertiliser<br />

each week to 10 days. If leaves are beginning to<br />

yellow, feed with liquid magnesium chelate as it<br />

assists the plants in taking up nutrients.<br />

Although dwarf citrus will appreciate the heat<br />

of a greenhouse in cooler regions, it won’t thank<br />

you for significant fluctuations in temperature –<br />

something that is very possible in the greenhouse<br />

situation where one minute you have a frost<br />

settling on the ground, and the next you have a<br />

cloudless sky and heat beating in through the<br />

plastic or glass. Create an even temperature by<br />

attending to ventilation (use doors as well as<br />

windows and vents, but be sure to net doors<br />

where birds may prove a problem to the fruit).<br />

Pruning<br />

Pruning is essential if you are to keep the trees<br />

small to allow for air circulation, and to ensure<br />

they don’t reach beyond picking height (you<br />

don’t want to be using ladders or standing<br />

on chairs to reach fruit in your fragile glass or<br />

plastic environment). A trim also increases fruit<br />

yields and cuts down on the likelihood of heavy<br />

branches snapping off with the weight of the<br />

harvest. Pruning of under-cover citrus can be<br />

done at any time of year, but late winter and<br />

early spring is best. Whenever you decide to<br />

do it, wait until after the fruit has set (in case<br />

the delicate tiny fruitlets are knocked off or<br />

you accidentally cut off a branch with young<br />

fruit growing on it). If your trees are growing<br />

in pots that are to be moved out when the<br />

world warms up, think carefully about pruning<br />

so that the plants will fit out the greenhouse<br />

door (think “height” as well as “width”). As you<br />

prune, try to cut out all but six of the lateral<br />

branches, as this will encourage fruiting.<br />

When pruning dwarf citrus, it’s important to<br />

pay close attention to any suckers appearing<br />

below the graft. The rootstock is quite capable<br />

of throwing out these suckers and, before you<br />

know it, the unwanted growth has taken over<br />

from the grafted wood. If the graft is no longer<br />

visible (as can happen when trees mature)<br />

learn to recognise the rootstock by its sharp<br />

thorns (another reason for snipping them off<br />

sooner rather than later).<br />

54 kiwigardener gardener.kiwi

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