Jewellery World Magazine - July 2020

JULY 2020
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Created by members, for members.
SHOWCASE
JEWELLERS
WE’RE HERE FOR YOU
Showcase Jewellers was established in 1981 by a group
of independent Jewellers who came together to
improve their buying power in the industry.
Today, Showcase Jewellers is a powerhouse of resources
essential for the independent jewellery retailer, especially in
the area of technology.
Our members have so many resources at their fingertips to
support the running of their business:
• Training
• Marketing
• Online solutions
• Human resources
• Central billing
• Financial planning
• Exclusive in-house
brands
• Conferences
• In-house loose diamond
inventory, both mined
and lab grown.
• Stock ranging
• Extensive supplier
base at both local and
international level
including the latest
fashion brands.
Alongside these resources, you have the support of an
experienced and engaged head office team, as well as
your fellow members. The Showcase Jewellers Group
provides a community and network in which your business
is supported and will positively thrive. We are enormously
proud of the of our community and hope to welcome
you into our family soon.
TOP SIX BENEFITS
NO JOINING FEES AT ALL
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Here to support you every step of the way.
IN HOUSE MARKETING AGENCY
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Join the Showcase Family
Email: enquiries@jimaco.com | Phone: (02) 8566 1800 | Visit: www.showcasejewellers.com.au

Jewellery World Magazine
ABN: 41 143 385 895
ISSN: 2207-6751
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570
P: 0431 844 903
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
managing director
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au
editor
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au
contributing writers
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
Stefan Juengling
Cheryl D Harty
art
design@jewelleryworld.net.au
advertising sales
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au
REGULARS
6 News
12 Palloys Points
14 Trade Well with Rami Baron
16 JAA News
35 Watches
38 Keeping Skills Alive
40 Directory
42 New Products
FEATURES
24 The symbolism and function of men's jewellery
Culture's changing views on men's adornment has
led to great opportunities in the industry for those
willing to go beyond the cufflink.
24
30
35
30 Baby, baby, I'm in chains
The chain is the indispensible hero of the jewellery
world. We talk to our local manufacturers about this
versatile product.
DISCLAIMER:
This publication may not be reproduced
in whole or part without the written
permission of the Publisher.
Articles express the opinions of the
authors and are not necessarily those of the
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or
service in this magazine does not indicate the
Publisher’s endorsement.
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
JULY 2020
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
The Publisher excludes all liability for
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false
or misleading statements that may appear
in this publication.
All information is copyright.
FRONT COVER
Livadi - by Palloys
www.livadi.com
4
jewellery world - July 2020

All Silver is Rhodium Plated
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)
• International Jewellery Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU

News
Gadget sales down means
jewellery sales up
While jewellery sales are down right now, jewellery
experts are confident that they will pick up again as
people look for something to spend their money on.
British gemstone expert and entrepreneur Steve
Bennett says that technological advances have slowed
during the COVID-19 crisis, and so consumers will see
minimal benefit in buying the latest phone or gadget.
He says it is human nature to want to buy a talisman to
commemorate surviving a difficult time.
DPA relaunches as the Natural Diamond Council
The DPA has relaunched under a new name, Natural Diamond Council (NDC). The
mission of the NDC is to promote the desirability of natural diamonds and support
the integrity of the diamond jewellery industry. As an industry authority, the NDC
will continue to invest in advertising globally but has evolved to become a go-to
digital publisher for innovative and educational content.
As part of the launch, the former consumer identity Real is Rare, Real is a Diamond
was rebranded as Only Natural Diamonds (OND). The new OND website is a digital
platform celebrating the remarkable heritage and values of natural diamonds
and features a variety of insightful coverage under six key pillars: Epic Diamonds,
Hollywood & Pop Culture, Love & Diamonds, Style & Innovation, Diamonds 101 and
Inside the Diamond World.
GJEPC elects new chair
Colin Shah, the founder of Schachter and Kama Jewellery, has been elected
chairman of the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), the body
that promotes the Indian jewellery industry.
Speaking at a webinar, Coloured Gemstones – The Way
Forward, Bennett said: “We’re not going to restaurants,
we’re not travelling. We see mobile phone sales
have gone down …. That leads me to the belief that
[consumers] will be looking for other things to spend
their money on, and as long as we have an industry
coming up with new gemstones, new stories…. I think
the whole things looks healthy in the long term.”
Emma Watson joins board of Kering
Actor and activist Emma Watson has joined the board
of directors at Kering, the luxury goods group that
owns Boucheron, Girard-Perragaux and Ulysse Nardin
as well as Gucci and YSL, among others.
Watson has become a high-profile campaigner for
sustainability, women’s rights and gender equality.
Sustainability is an area of focus for the company
which has promised to reduce its environmental
footprint by 40%. The company employs more than
38,000 people and, in 2019, generated US$17.9
billion in revenue.
Vipul Shah, CEO of Asian Star Co., has been appointed the group’s vice chairman.
“The new term at GJEPC starts amidst acute uncertainties due to the ongoing
COVID-19 crisis in India and world over,” said Colin Shah in a statement.
“It demands a paradigm shift for the industry. The council is focusing [on]
recalibrating itself by digitalization across verticals, exploring new ways of
reaching customers, and unconventional ways of creating demand for gems and
jewellery.”
Vipul Shah expressed confidence in his country’s ability to rebound after the
crisis. “We are optimistic that the global consumption will pick up in the second
half of this year and global trade will witness an upward trend.”
6
jewellery world - July 2020

News
Lightbox now offering 2ct diamond studs
De Beers’ lab grown diamond brand, Lightbox, has just exceeded its own
original price-point ceiling of $1,000 and is now offering total weight 2ct
diamond studs.
Opening sales for pre-order in June, the addition to the range was a pair of
1ct lab grown diamond studs for US$1,800, available in a 10k white or rose
gold setting. The stones will be available in the brand’s standard white, pink
and blue stones, however the white version sold out before the end of June.
Lightbox CEO Steve Coe said that “when we originally launched, we saw
$1,000 as a bit of an upper limit. But what we’ve seen in practice is that there
is a bit of a willingness among
consumers to go higher.”
He mentioned it was possible
that Lightbox might eventually
offer 1.5 ct. and 2 ct. solitaires, if
it feels there’s consumer demand
for that product.
NZ jeweller gives away green diamond
to farmer
Auckland jeweller Mark Beckett and his wife Pamela offered
a rare green diamond in a competition run by DairyNZ.
Beckett said he wanted to show his appreciation and
admiration for New Zealand dairy farmers, as both he and
his wife hailed from farming backgrounds. "We saw the
opportunity to give away this appropriately green coloured
diamond to thank the good farmers for their hard work, both
as stewards of the land and for bringing us milk," he said.
The gem was won by Whanganui dairy farmer Chris
Davidson, who knew exactly what to do with it - he put it on
wife Rachel’s finger to thank her for all her love and support.
Over 400 farmers were nominated for the award. The winner
was nominated by his twin brother and his mum, who both
said he was a true gem.

News
Major West Australian jewellery chain moves to Australian
based digital currency
One of WA’s best-known jewellery chains has embarked on the digital currency
journey and will now start offering customers and clients the ability to pay using
Qoin (pronounced ‘coin’), the newest digital currency which is being taken up by
hundreds of merchants in WA.
The state’s largest independently owned jewellery business, Smales, has introduced
Qoin at is Bunbury store and customers and clients can now use Qoin to purchase
high end jewellery, watches, rings and diamonds from the Smales’ jewellery range.
Smales Jewellery, which started operated in WA 82 years ago, has stores in
Bunbury, Perth, Kalgoorlie, Karatha and Geraldton.
Owner Tony Smales says he expects Qoin will be well accepted by jewellery
customers.
“We are always looking to be innovative and we
think that the digital currency tide is here to stay
and will continue to grow.
“Qoin is Australian-based and we take a lot of
comfort in that, together with the fact that it can
be used easily by our customer base.
“It is fast, uncomplicated and the people behind it know what they are doing. We
are trialling it at our Bunbury store and we believe it will give us an edge.”
Over the space of just two months, around 3,000 small business merchants,
including many in WA, are now accepting Qoin the newest digital currency built on
blockchain that offers cashless transactions.
Qoin Australia Chief Marketing Officer Andrew Barker says Qoin is fast growing in
popularity amongst Australian small businesses that are striving to meet consumer
demands for safe and reliable alternative payment methods.
“We have done our homework in WA and we have a dedicated team of
independent agents that are in contact with WA businesses.
Urwerk’s C-3PO watch raises money for
COVID-19 fight
Star Wars fans, it’s time to buy a new watch. In honour
of the 43rd anniversary of Episode IV, Urwerk has
released the UR-100 Gold Edition, otherwise known as
C-3PO. The UR-100 Gold Edition C-3PO will be limited
to 25 total editions, retailing at $60,000 each and the
first was auctioned to raise money for the fight against
COVID-19.
Like its namesake, the watch is gold plated and the
design featuring asymmetrical lugs and faceted edges
has also been compared to the Millennium Falcon. The
watch’s 3D dial features an orbital hour-satellite display,
and a three-arm aluminium carousel system displays
the current hour, blocking all other numerals. The
minute markers are displayed at the bottom of the dial
in a vivid green and the time is marked by a red arrow
pointer.
Between the traditional 9
and 11 o’clock positions, the
C-3PO indicates the distance
in kilometres travelled by the
wearer on earth, based on
the Earth’s rotation at 555
kilometres every 20 minutes.
On the opposite side of the
dial, the distance the Earth
has orbited around the sun
is displayed, at 35,740 km
every 20 minutes.
“The current economic climate off the back of COVID-19 has encouraged many
businesspeople to open their eyes to new ways of doing business and that includes
digital currency.”
Mr Barker says the time is ripe for digital currencies, like Qoin, as
coronavirus has paved the way for small businesses to consider
digital currencies to attract new customers and facilitate instore
transactions.
Mr Barker says, “Before coronavirus, consumers were well
accustomed to a smooth online shopping experience that takes
them seamlessly to checkout. Now, because of coronavirus,
consumers expect the same experience instore.
“With coronavirus restrictions easing, we’re seeing consumers
leaving their homes and heading back to local businesses. The
small business merchants taking up Qoin are ready for this
groundswell of new and returning customers.”
8
jewellery world - July 2020

BRS
News
ABC Refinery now accredited by The CME Group (COMEX)
ABC Refinery has received accreditation from the CME Group for its premier gold
product, the COMEX “GC” gold futures contract, effective 05 June 2020. The
accreditation sees ABC Refinery bars added to the COMEX good delivery list of
brands used to physically settle against the GC gold futures contract in New York.
The addition of ABC Refinery to the CME Group’s listing of good delivery brands
for the GC gold futures contract offers traders and investors all over the world
access to the ABC Bullion brand via the COMEX exchange.
ABC Refinery is the refining division
of the Pallion Group, Australasia’s
largest independent precious metal
services group of companies and
has been involved in the refining
and processing of precious metals
in Australia since 1951. ABC
Refinery currently refines over
25% of all primary gold refined
in Australia, continuing to gain
market share through its world
leading environmentally friendly
“green gold” refining standard,
with gold mining companies
enjoying the benefits of refining with a modern, independent and highly efficient
refinery. Australia is the second largest producer of gold in the world and this is
a substantial increase in the physical gold supply chain for COMEX providing a
significant benefit to the Australian gold industry and economy.
Inclusion in this prestigious good delivery list is a testament to ABC Refinery’s
ability to refine and manufacture gold products to a world-class standard and
meet the exacting technical standards of the CME Group.
This, the latest in a long line of accreditations, completes ABC Refinery’s
accreditation status with the three major gold trading centres, alongside the
London Bullion Market Association (LBMA) and Shanghai Gold Exchange (SGE).
“The accreditation marks a significant achievement, not just for ABC Refinery
but for the wider Australian gold industry” said ABC Refinery Managing Director,
Phillip Cochineas.
“It ensures ABC Bullion bars will continue to be a preferred brand in the global
marketplace and remain sought after for years to come,” said Mr Cochineas.
“It is a positive reflection on the entire Pallion family, which has enabled us
to achieve this high international standard and furthers our support of the
Australian gold industry by increasing demand for Australian gold.”
COMEX gold futures represent the world’s leading futures contract for gold
prices and trading. The contract offers superior liquidity than any other gold
market, trading the equivalent of nearly 27 million ounces daily. The gold futures
trade virtually around the clock, 23 hours per day, enabling the world to access
the market at times that work best for their schedules in whatever time zone
they may be situated.
CIBJO reschedules annual congress
for 2021
CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has
announced that its annual congress, which this year
was scheduled to have taken place in Dubai, UAE,
October 5 to 7, will be postponed to 2021, as a result
of the COVID-19 global pandemic.
The decision to postpone the congress was taken
during a video conference of the CIBJO Board of
Directors, following consultation with the Dubai
Multi-Commodities Centre (DMCC), which was to have
hosted the event.
“This is the first time that we have had to postpone a
CIBJO Congress, but under the circumstances it was
definitely the most prudent action to take,” said CIBJO
President Gaetano Cavalieri. “Our primary concern
is ensuring the health and safety of all participants,
and, although none of has a crystal ball with which to
predict how things will be five months from now, this is
not a decision that can be taken at the last moment.”
The DMCC has generously renewed the invitation to
host the congress in 2021.
World Diamond Council names new
president
Diamond dealer Edward Asscher has been named the
new president of the World Diamond Council, the
industry group that represents the diamond industry to
the Kimberley Process.
Asscher previously held the
role from 2014 to 2016 and
currently serves as the group's
vice president. Last month he
celebrated 50 years of heading
his family's diamond company.
At the same virtual board
meeting held in June, Feriel
Zerouki was elected the first
female vice president of the
WDC. She will succeed Asscher
as president in 2022. Zerouki is
currently senior vice president of
international relations and ethical
initiatives at De Beers Group.
10
jewellery world - July 2020

Bee Retail System (BRS)
Facts at a Glance
• 108 piece collection
• retail value $40,000 (Approx.)
• fast stock turn
• 58% - 60% margin
• super high return on investment
• only $6500 deposit
It’s pretty hard to go wrong with a BRS, just about all you have
to do, is smile and take the money. The BRS has been perfected
over a period of 25 years, and comes with a money back
guarantee, if you don’t make money we’ll take it back
and refund your deposit.
A mainstream jewellery store should expect a great stock turn
and a 58-60% margin plus the enjoyment of selling an Australian
product backed by an unconditional 10 year guarantee.
Then there are the extras…
• free point of sale display
• free presentation boxes
• new designs issued summer and winter
• Commission on internet sales
• Catalogue distribution to over half a million households.*
22031/CZ A35 - B58
It’s a no brainer, give us a call and let us send you a BRS starter pack.
*Quarterly marketing contributions apply.
Steven Sesselmann
bee jewellery | (02) 8338 1200 | steven@beejewel.com.au
J e w e l l e r y
BRS_Ad_JewelleryWorld.indd 1
18/6/20 1:29 pm

PALLOYS POINTS
Chris Botha,
Operations Manager, Jewellery Division
Palloys
JEWELLERY TRENDS
POST COVID-19
I
came across an interesting report the
other day which outlined the sales trends
in Europe during the COVID pandemic
lockdown. Many of these businesses were
forced to shut during the lockdown, and kept
their expectations and forecasts low, however,
it seems consumers have bucked these
projections and instead breathed new life in
the jewellery industry. It is, of course, early
days but these are promising signs.
What were people buying? It seems gifts were
the order of the day. With many shoppers
purchasing belated gifts for their family and
loved ones and feeling more comfortable to do
it in person than shop online.
Calling round our own customer network,
it seems the same trend is occurring here.
Consumer enquiries in jewellery stores is
trending back up, people beginning their
research process in purchasing a piece or
buying within the first week of the store
resuming normal trading hours.
Looking at the jobs coming through our doors
at Palloys, it seems there have been quite a
few lockdown proposals, with an increase in
engagement and wedding rings as well as an
increase in bespoke jewellery jobs.
What does this mean for our industry? Are
we out of the woods? It is far too early to say,
however, we now know what we can expect,
and with this be prepared for what is over the
horizon.
Our lockdown journey at Palloys was
somewhat fortuitous, as it allowed us more
time to prepare our unveiling of the new
Palloys website, which will be the first of its
kind in the world, allowing Palloys customers
access to instant pricing, reporting and job
status.
With such an exciting launch about to be
released, we are also releasing our men’s
jewellery line, Livadi, which will allow Palloys’
customers access to over 550 unique styles of
men’s wedding rings for their stores.
Exciting and busy times ahead.
12
jewellery world - July 2020

WANT TO SELL BIGGER DIAMONDS?
UNDERSTAND THE
CONCEPT OF SACRIFICE.
When most people want to sell more, or bigger dollar figures, they resort to the
discount. It is the reality in every culture and business. You name it, they do it.
I
grew up working in a jewellery business that
would often start off with a 50% discount
and then still give further discounts after
that.
What is wrong with this approach? We are
all familiar with the typical answers. You
reduce value; it is a race to the bottom; how
can anyone have confidence in what you are
selling, and on and on. Yet so many people
do it. The discount is a tool in our arsenal of
selling. You can’t deny it often works and it has
its place.
What do I even mean by the term sacrifice in
this context? Where am I going with this?
Let us not confuse sacrifice with opportunity
cost. Opportunity cost is the technical term
for choosing to do one thing over the other
after you have weighed up the pros and cons
of each. Sacrifice is to be used sparingly,
or it becomes a negative. In our day to day
relationships, we look to compromise as this is
a more equal and balanced approach.
I read a book recently which explained the
psychology of sacrifice in a way that flicked the
switch for me and allowed me to appreciate
how we in the diamond industry can use this
to sell bigger goods.
If you look at how a parent raises their
child, you realise that you need to invest an
enormous amount of your time in that child.
That time means that you must, in many
cases, sacrifice something to be there for your
child when they need you. Often it doesn't suit
you or it's not convenient. You might try and
find a way to work around it, but when you
step back and look at your child’s success and
development as an individual, it often comes
from enormous sacrifice, and you would do
it all again without hesitating a moment. This
must be the purest form of sacrifice.
When a person goes to buy a diamond
engagement ring for their partner, they
probably haven’t experienced the above form
of sacrifice. Maybe they are purchasing a
ring just to solve a problem. In this scenario,
perhaps they were with their partner for ten
years and they feel they owe them a ring.
Some might see this as their need to show
their appreciation and buying something
bigger or spending more money than they
originally anticipated satisfies an obligation.
However, let’s look at a scenario where they
really want to buy something with a wow
factor and show how much effort they put
into finding the right diamond. You see, it is
this customer who is wanting, or let us use
14
jewellery world - July 2020

DDCA NEWS
Rami Baron
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia
rami@ddca.org.au
the word needing, to buy the best they can.
That need to stretch their budget is their subconscious
mind validating an inner emotion
of achievement or, if I may use the word,
success.
Wanting to buy something bigger or
something even better than what was
originally planned is common to us all. As a
salesperson, it is not that you want to put
them in a difficult financial situation, god
forbid, rather it is about understanding what
is driving their purchase. What is motivating
them? All of us take pride in buying what
might be considered the best of something. It
could be golf clubs, a watch or a luxury car. It
is human nature to strive for better.
Let us not be naïve. Who does not smile and
feel chuffed when they hear their partner
telling their friends “OMG, I can’t believe they
bought me such a big diamond”?
Many customers, ourselves included, want
or need to feel a sense of accomplishment
by knowing that we stretched ourselves and
acquired something bigger and better. Before
you shoot me down, who has not bought the
bigger home, in the nicer area or the car with
all the gadgets?
Did you need it? Of course not. So why did you
go over your budget at the auction?
The purchase of a diamond ring is no different
and giving the client the opportunity to buy
the bigger diamond satisfies the symbolism of
what the diamond ring stands for. Denying the
client this option is a failing of your own belief
system and is a result of your fear of losing the
sale.
This is your hang-up, because in real terms,
you have no idea how much a person might
really want to spend. The jewellers who have
made the biggest diamond sales in the world
will tell you, it was to the customer who
they least expected to spend that amount of
money. Their shift in thinking was the result
of them not setting preconceived amounts of
what they thought a person could afford. If
the client wanted to buy a 3ct diamond ring
and walked in saying they only were thinking
of spending $20k, maybe they just didn’t know
that they would need to spend $80k plus.
Let us assume that they wanted to make that
sacrifice and spend that money. Why then are
you trying to convince them buy a $20k ring?
The decision is an emotional one. How they
spend their money is their business. Your
role is to educate and align their needs with
your merchandise, which may translate into
purchasing a bigger or better diamond.
Why did De Beers suggest that a guy spend
three months of wages when buying an
engagement ring? He had to sacrifice. Without
sacrifice, without stretching ourselves, the
object of our desire has less value. We are
dealing with basic human instincts. The
relationship where neither party sacrifices for
the other will become strained, and the lack of
observed sacrifice in each other will probably
lead to its demise. When your client comes
to buy that diamond ring and they need to
stretch to get that bigger stone, know that
they are sending their brain a message that
the person that they want to marry is worth
the sacrifice.
Some can pretend that how much someone
spends on a ring is irrelevant, and that might
be true for some people. However, our core
clients aspire to own and acquire beautiful
rare precious items because they appreciate
the symbolism attached. So yes, there are
clients who will just buy on the basis of
price. As soon as you work that out though,
it’s important to either structure the sale
accordingly or realise that this is not a client
for you, and proceed accordingly.
The hardest thing for anyone to do is change.
To change your selling style or your belief
system is very hard. I challenge you in this post
COVID-19 world, to use this moment in time
to challenge yourself and know that you too
can sell big diamonds. It is only your fear and
belief system that is stopping you.
It’s simple. Just ask yourself why you buy
what you buy and the sacrifices you make to
acquire the things you want.
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.
July 2020 15

PRESIDENT'S
MESSAGE
Jo Tory
The JAA Design Sketch Render Drawing Competition is a celebration of Australian jewellery
design and sketching skills. The competition honours the diverse talent of local artisans
by showcasing their original and distinguished talents in hand and digital drawing. By
promoting local creative talent, the JAA Design Sketch Render Drawing Competition is an
investment in the vibrant future of the Australian jewellery industry.
The inaugural competition was held in 2018
and we are pleased to once again offer this
creative outlet to the industry. In 2020, we
will be expanding the competition across the
Tasman to include New Zealand jewellery
industry participants to compete in the
material-based categories – those being
junior, colour, pearl, diamond and CAD. We
will also be introducing another category to
incorporate artists outside of the jewellery
industry. This has come as a result of artists
contacting the JAA expressing their interest in
entering the competition.
Not only does JAA Design Sketch Render
give designers and artists a unique creative
outlet to showcase their skills and talents on
a professional and respected platform, it also
allows industry participants an opportunity to
reflect and evaluate themselves against others
- as a result the competition promotes and
fosters the growth and talent in the industry.
On a local level, the JAA Design Sketch
Render provides individuals the chance to
showcase their exceptional skill sets and
design prowess to not only the industry but
to consumers, through the JAA’s promotion
of the competition on social media to over
7400+ followers, through the competition’s
e-publication and the People’s Choice Award.
As a judge in 2018, I had a wonderful
opportunity to thoroughly examine the
detail and execution of the entries. I was
extremely impressed with the calibre of
not only the sketching and rendering skills
but the innovation that continues to evolve
in jewellery design. This competition gives
entrants a limitless opportunity to push
their design capabilities, given there is no
boundaries due to the cost of expensive
materials such as precious metal and
gemstones or manufacturing abilities.
There are many benefits in entering
competitions and participating in any
competition takes courage. It shows a belief
in one’s own talent and is an act of faith in
their ability to push their boundaries and
potentially step outside their comfort zone.
We look forward to seeing the amazing design
and sketching skills this wonderful industry
has. Great prizes are to be won and entries
will be opening soon.
Full details can be found at jaa.com.au/sketch.
Don’t forget to follow our socials –
facebook.com/jaaust and
@jewellersassociationaustralia on Instagram
16
jewellery world - July 2020

J A A
D E S I G N
R E N D E R
A drawing competition celebrating Australia and
New Zealand's jewellery design and sketching skills.
The Competition honours the diverse talent of local
artisans by showcasing their original and distinguished
talents in hand and digital drawing.
E N T R I E S O P E N I N G S O O N
J A A . C O M . A U / S K E T C H

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ALL PANDORA JEWELLERY TO BE MADE
FROM RECYCLED SILVER AND GOLD
A full shift from mined to recycled silver and gold will reduce CO2 and be better for the environment.
Pandora announced in June that it will
entirely stop using newly mined silver
and gold in its jewellery by 2025 and only
buy from recycled sources. This will cut carbon
emissions by two thirds for silver and by more
than 99% for gold.
“Silver and gold are beautiful jewellery
materials that can be recycled forever without
losing their quality. Metals mined centuries
ago are just as good as new. They will never
tarnish or decay. We wish to help develop a
more responsible way of crafting affordable
luxury like our jewellery, and prevent that
these fine metals end up in landfills. We
want to do our part to build a more circular
economy,” said CEO Alexander Lacik.
From 71% to fully recycled
Today, 71% of the silver and gold in Pandora’s
jewellery comes from recycled sources.
Shifting completely to recycled silver and
gold will reduce CO2 emissions, water usage
and other environmental impacts, because
recycling of metals use less resources than
mining new metals. The carbon emissions
from sourcing of recycled silver are one third
compared to mined silver, while recycling
of gold emits approximately 600 times less
carbon than mining new gold, according to life
cycle assessments.
“The need for sustainable business practices
is only becoming more important, and
companies must do their part in response to
the climate crisis and the depletion of natural
resources. For many years, Pandora has used
recycled metals in our designs. Now we are
ready to take the next step and stop using
mined silver and gold altogether. This is a
significant commitment that will be better for
the environment and make our jewellery more
sustainable,” said Alexander Lacik.
Silver is the most used material in Pandora
jewellery, accounting for over half of all
purchased product materials measured by
weight. Pandora also uses smaller volumes of
gold, palladium, copper and man-made stones
such as nano-crystals and cubic zirconia.
The decision to use only recycled silver
and gold covers all use of these metals in
Pandora’s jewellery, including grains, semifinished
items such as chains, and other parts
from suppliers.
More silver can be recycled
Today, around 15% of the world’s silver
supply comes from recycled sources. More
than half of the recycled silver comes from
industry, where the metal is used in chemical
production, electronics and for other
purposes.
Pandora will work with its suppliers to
guarantee sufficient supply of responsibly
sourced recycled silver, certified according to
leading supply chain initiative standards such
as the Responsible Jewellery Council. Pandora
will also engage with key stakeholders in the
supply chain to explore opportunities for
increasing the availability of recycled silver
and improve production standards.
The decision to use recycled precious metals
follows Pandora’s ambitious decarbonisation
targets announced in January. In 2020,
Pandora will source 100% renewable
electricity at its two jewellery crafting facilities
in Thailand, and by 2025 the company will be
carbon neutral across its entire operations.
Pandora has also joined the Science Based
Targets initiative – the leading corporate
collaboration for action on climate change
– and will publish a plan next year to reduce
carbon emissions in its full value chain in line
with the Paris Agreement.
20
jewellery world - July 2020

New DNA fingerprinting
technology finally enables
identification of pearl
species
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF is introducing a new service to
support the documentation of the origin and provenance of pearls, in
partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine at the University of
Zurich. It is made possible by a substantial expansion of the organisation’s
DNA fingerprinting reference database and capabilities, which now
include eight oyster species that produce the vast majority of pearls
found in the natural and cultured pearl trade.
2021 DIRECTORY
The eight pearl species that can be distinguished conclusively using these
DNA fingerprinting methods are:
Pinctada radiata (Arabian/Persian Gulf & Ceylon pearl oyster)
Pinctada imbricata (Atlantic pearl oyster)
Pinctada fucata/martensii (Akoya pearl oyster)
Pinctada maxima (South Sea pearl oyster)
Pinctada margaritifera (Tahitian black-lipped pearl oyster)
Pinctada mazatlanica (Panama pearl oyster)
Pinctada maculata (Pipi pearl oyster)
Pteria sterna (Rainbow-lipped pearl oyster)
DNA fingerprinting of pearls was first developed by SSEF with partners at
ETH Zurich in 2013 and the quasi non-destructive method has since been
refined further. The amount of material that is required from the pearl for
testing has been considerably reduced to an infinitesimal amount.
SSEF’s research on species
identification creates
important opportunities to
better understand historic
pearl trading routes and
the origins of notable
pearls. In combination
with age dating technology
(a service provided by
SSEF for pearls since
2017), it is possible to gain
previously inaccessible scientific insights into the formation of pearls.
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"We are happy to build on decades of pearl research at SSEF to launch
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director of SSEF. “DNA fingerprinting will contribute to further
documenting the origin and geographic provenance of historic natural
pearls and traceability efforts in the cultured pearl trade.”
“In addition to our collaboration on DNA testing of precious corals
and ivory, we are pleased to be able to contribute our lab expertise to
documenting pearls, which are one of the oldest and most iconic gems
known to humankind,” added Dr. Adelgunde Kratzer of the Institute of
Forensic Medicine at the University of Zurich.
If you have any questions or need more
information, please contact Jeremy Keight on
0431 844 903 or Jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au
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By Stefan Juengling
Daniel Bentley Jewellery
THE SYMBOLISM AND FUNCTION
OF MALE JEWELLERY
Here we venture deep into the philosophy of men’s jewellery in both its meaning and function.
With input from multiple experts in men’s jewellery, we examine men’s contemporary jewellery
as pieces of functional adornment, its perceived restrictions compared to women’s jewellery, its
roles in everyday life and on special occasions, and its future.
Curtis Australia
Why do women get to wear all the
jewellery?
In his Master’s thesis “From amulets to
contemporary jewellery: Male jewellery and
symbolism,” author Vladyslav Kladko pondered
the question as to why jewellery is primarily
associated with women. When presented
with this question, Master Jeweller Glenn
Curtis from Curtis Australia said he believes
women have been the primary wearers of
jewellery for two reasons: the contemporary
Western male has a conservative approach to
personal adornment
compared to
women, and the
long history of
jewellery created
exclusively for
women.
Daniel Bentley Jewellery
“The focus on women's jewellery probably
comes about more from a traditional view on
adornment – earrings, rings, bracelets and
necklets are generally more often seen on
women,” he said.
“By contrast, men today are more likely to
have one or two pieces, a personal ring, chain
or watch, whereas women perhaps collect
more pieces in different designs through
different stages of life.”
Curtis Australia
The undue restrictions on men’s
jewellery styling
Kladko further argued in his thesis that there
are not too many jewellery accessories for
men today as compared to women, and even
the jewellery that is available must be worn
in accordance with the occasion and culture.
In response, Queensland-based bespoke
jeweller Daniel Bentley said that we live in a
more liberal society than Kladko would have us
believe, but understood that men always have
the pressure of societal norms.
“I believe that the current
climate is one of “do what
you want” in regards
to styling,
with a
lean
toward
following the
latest icons in
style or Instagram
heroes,” he said.
Cudworth Enterprises
“That being said, the pressure to follow can
limit the acceptance of individual or original
style choices.”
Glenn also recognised that there are reduced
restrictions today on the types of jewellery men
will wear and where they can wear it, while
also acknowledging that jewellery choices for
men and women can reflect the social etiquette
of the day.
“Think back to the twenties, men might have
carried a cigarette case, a lighter, worn a pocket
watch, cuff links, tiepin and a ring… some might
even have worn a lapel brooch,” he said.
24
jewellery world - July 2020

“Now, men can be
seen with earrings,
(one or two)
bracelets, necklets and
rings.”
Another who shared
similar views was Darren
Roberts, the director of
DPI Jewellery
men’s jewellery and accessories
wholesaler Cudworth Enterprises, who
remarked that men’s jewellery adornment
has persisted and evolved throughout the
centuries.
“During the 20th century men wearing
jewellery was frowned upon,” he said.
“However more recently men feel enlightened
and comfortable wearing jewellery.”
Mark Boldiston is owner and founder of
Melbourne-based exclusive men’s handmade
jeweller Lord Coconut, and he agreed with
Kladko that there is still a stigma or restriction
for most men when it comes to jewellery
styling or the type of jewellery worn,
particularly compared to women.
“Although it may seem that more men are
wearing jewellery, the jewellery is chosen and
worn under strict societal conditions where
anything outside of the tribal norm is usually
frowned upon,” he said.
“This limits the jewellery choices for the
everyday guy, so they tend to err on the less is
more approach.”
Mark believes we are in an in-between stage
where it’s ok for men to wear one or two
select pieces, but more than that is seen as
either ostentatious or just plain strange.
The role of men’s jewellery in
everyday life/special occasions
Contemporary men’s jewellery has many
facets, and has unique roles to play in
everyday life and on special occasions. For
instance, Mark believes that a man’s everyday
jewellery is used to designate his tribe.
“The biker and his biker rings, the lads and
their gold chains, the urban dandy with their
pocket chains, cufflinks and tie bars or the
street wear kings with their bling,” he said.
“Each choose their preferred jewellery to
ensure they easily identify with their peers as
well as to others.”
Cudworth Enterprises
As for the majority of men who do not
wish to fit into these tribes, Mark said their
jewellery is a simple piece of adornment
which often has an emotional connection
through the piece being a wedding ring, a
birthday present, a family heirloom and similar
sentimental pieces.
“The difference between everyday wear and
special occasions is generally the quality of the
piece rather than the number of pieces worn,”
he said.
DPI Jewellery is a major Australian jewellery
wholesaler, and general manager Justin Meath
said men wear their jewellery for several
reasons: being a combination of practicality,
expression and/or a sign of commitment.
“Think a wedding band, cross necklace, watch
and maybe a bracelet for example,” he said.
“But when a special occasion arises this is
more so when we get the chance to express
ourselves through our fashion, which helps
shape our identity as a person while giving
added confidence.”
DPI Jewellery
July 2020 25

Lord Coconut
Speaking more generally, Glenn said that in
all environments men’s jewellery is becoming
more visible.
“In business and casual environments, men
will accessorise with a watch, either classic or
sports, and there are many more men wearing
simple bracelets and chains,” he said.
“Some men wear signet rings, many of course
wear wedding rings, and some wear pins
and brooches on outer garments, as well as
earrings.”
He went on to talk about jewellery’s role
on special occasions such as weddings,
conferences, or gift giving occasions
(Christmas, Valentine’s Day, etc), with rings
being a visual sign of marriage, and corporate
gifts being lasting reminders of the occasion.
“The formal
exchange of a gift
is a key moment
in cementing
relationships and
a well thought
out gift is one
that reminds the
recipient of who,
where and why it
was given.”
Cudworth Enterprises
Watches and wedding rings comprise
the largest part of a man’s daily jewellery
repertoire according to Darren. However, what
he feels has really changed over the years
is that men are now wearing jewellery as a
fashion statement.
Fashion and aesthetics are king in
men’s jewellery
One opinion Kladko
had which all our
respondents agreed
with is that men’s
jewellery is not a
question about the
number of stones or
the fineness of metal,
but a question of
good taste and image.
Justin said that as a
result of this desire for
appealing and tasteful
pieces, men want
cutting-edge designs
that are up to date
with current trends.
“At Jewellery DPI we
offer an up-to-date,
fashion-forward range
that gives men options,” he said.
Lord Coconut
WWW.CUDWORTHENTERPRISES.COM

DPI Jewellery
“With a variety
of contemporary
designs, created
with modern-day
materials such as
tungsten steel,
our range consists
of many colour
combinations and size options, providing men
that choice.”
In doing so, DPI Jewellery ensures they pay
homage to some of the more traditional
styles, yet with a modern touch.
Glenn said that for his team at Curtis
Australia, they always try to be tasteful, with
designs that are often understated and less
ornamental, as they perhaps understand that
pieces can be worn in both casual and formal
settings.
“Some of our pens and cufflinks are quite
elaborate indesign, exploring and taking
advantage of the unique characteristics of
precious materials,” he said.
“We understand that there are many tastes
in jewellery and accessories and our range
reflects that, while staying true to our
overarching philosophy of form and function
working closely.”
Daniel Bentley Jewellery
Daniel Bentley Jewellery
jewellerydpi.com
New Stainless and Tungsten series

DPI Jewellery
Mark was more critical of the jewellery
offerings men have available to choose from,
stating that the majority of jewellery worn by
men (and women) does not present as good
taste or image but merely cheap adornment
to be seen as part of a chosen crowd.
“We hope our handcrafted pieces allows men
to purchase well priced investment pieces
which will transcend fickle fashion so often
seen in high street jewellery stores,” he said.
“Just like a good watch, a good ring, bracelet
or pendant (depending upon your choice) will
allow a man to express his individuality with
style and class.”
For Daniel, he said that jewellery
designers can’t please everyone.
“So if you have a design style
that is yours, like we do, you
will attract the people who
gravitate toward it,” he said.
“I always choose form over
all other things such as
colour and gemstones...If
the shape and design are
not correct, gems won’t
help.”
Darren said that the Australian market is in
line with Kladko’s statement, and Cudworth’s
designs are more masculine to suit the
Australian market, which goes against the
European style of delicate jewellery.
Looking beyond 2020
This year has seen severe economic and
social upheaval, and Mark believes that as
our country slowly comes out of coronavirus
lockdown, these upheavals will show in men’s
jewellery preferences.
“…I believe there will be a move towards
conservatism for most men
and if jewellery is going to
be worn, it will be small in
number and high in quality
rather than an excess of
bling or a show of wealth,”
he said.
In a similar cautionary vein,
Daniel said the future is
exciting, but he fears the noise
of low-cost accessories continues
to make the value proposition of
designer men’s jewellery a hard task.
Our other respondents expected to
see the men’s jewellery scene continue
to evolve and change, with Glenn feeling the
future will allow more opportunities for men’s
jewellery.
“It's an exciting time to be a jeweller,
watchmaker and pen maker,especially
now that men are even more aware of
the power of these objects to define their
individuality,capture memories and express
themselves,” he said.
Justin sees men’s jewellery as having come a
long way in the past 10 years, and sees more
growth and change to come.
“With social norms being challenged and
men being given more freedom to express
themselves, DPI Jewellery puts itself at the
forefront of men’s jewellery fashion and
style… and we love being a part of that!” he
said.
Darren also embraces the opportunities to
come, and stated that Cudworth will continue
to be a leader in men’s jewellery, and keep up
with trends which suit the Australian market.
DPI Jewellery
28
jewellery world - July 2020

De Beers supports call to take down statue of its founder
In the UK, protesters have taken to the streets in the university town
of Oxford to demand the Oriel College tear down a statue of De Beers
founder Cecil Rhodes – and De Beers supports them.
In a statement released in June, the diamond company said that
“symbols matter, and we will not achieve equality, social j
ustice and healing unless those bearing symbols of inequality,
injustice and pain take them down.
benefits for the communities in which we live and work.”
Rhodes was an English businessman and a central figure in British
imperialism at the end of the 1800s who encouraged the empire
to take control of vast areas of southern Africa. His statue at the
University of Oxford overlooks the main street of the town. The
Rhodes scholarships offered by the university still bear his name.
“Cecil Rhodes was one of our founders in 1888. We reject what he
stood for, and while we can’t rewrite that history, we can bear the
responsibility of history to build a better legacy.”
The company said Rhodes “would not recognise the De Beers of
today, and we’re very proud of that.”
“The men and women of De Beers, the majority of whom are
citizen-owners of the company across southern Africa, have worked
for decades to build a positive legacy that has tangible and lasting
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By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
DPI Jewellery
(BABY, BABY...)
I'M IN CHAINS
Coz no one in the jewellery industry has ever heard that one before.
The chain is the unsung hero in the
jewellery world, providing functional
support and enhancement to other
jewellery pieces, while still being visually
appealing and intricate in its own right. Yet
chain is consistently popular with something
to suit every jewellery customer, and to adapt
to every fashion choice, from draped strands
to chunky ropes, delicate threads to gleaming
snakes.
“Chains are a very understated and underappreciated
item, even though they are
generally a staple piece in all jewellery stores,”
said Natalie Ablahd from Millennium Chain
in Melbourne. “We find that chains are
always popular, and a consistent sector of the
jewellery industry.”
Natalie says that the entire stock range
in Millennium Chain is manufactured in
Millenium Chain
Melbourne, and nothing is imported. “We
are strictly Australian made and proud of
it,” she said. Their chains are available in 9ct
and 18ct in yellow, rose and white gold. They
also supply a small range of silver and can
supply different carat weights in response to
customer request.
Design and strength
Chain jewellery dates back to at least 2500BCE
where the Ancient Egyptians pioneered the
practice of hammering out sheets of gold,
rolling the sheets into wire and then threading
links together. The Ancient Greeks added
pendants and amulets to their chains, which
were worn around the neck, wrist or ankle,
establishing the ongoing trend that continues
today.
Few consumers appreciate the art behind a
simple chain, which must have the strength
and flexibility to hold a pendant correctly in
place.
“It is important to strike the right balance
between the size and strength of the chain,
and the dimensions and weight of the
pendant,” said Hannah Burnley of Morris and
Watson. “Once you hit that sweet spot, they
flow together beautifully.”
Practicality is also the key when choosing the
right chain bracelet for charms.
Millenium Chain
“The charms must look good and complement
the bracelet, but they must be safe as well,”
Hannah said. “Be sure to select a chain that
can handle the weight of the charms.”
Morris and Watson manufacture their chains
inhouse in their Auckland facilities, using the
best available Italian equipment, technologies
and know-how, and tailoring their products
specifically to the Australasian market. They
supply chains in sterling silver, platinum and
a variety of yellow, red and white gold alloys,
ranging from 8ct all the way to 23ct.
When choosing the right chain for a pendant,
30
jewellery world - July 2020

Natalie Ablahd from Millennium Chain says that strength is the first
important factor to consider, and the other important factor is the
design of the chain. “You don’t want a detailed extravagant chain
that’s going to detract from the pendant. In this regard, we find that
chains of round links, such as a cable or trace chain, are preferable.
These are subtle enough to complement all kinds of pendants, and
strong enough to support all kinds of weights.”
The right metal
When choosing the right chain, customers are drawn to a range of
metals and price is not always the first consideration. While the gold
price has risen above platinum, gold chain still seems to retain its
popularity.
Hannah Burnley from Morris and Watson says that she is finding
that gold chain is currently the most popular. “A few years ago,
when platinum chain was twice as expensive as gold, it was a better
seller. It’s a paradox, but as prices for gold have risen so has the
popularity of gold chain.”
Jacinta Collins from The Golden Mile says that there is not currently
much customer demand for platinum chain, although they have
seen an increased interest in sterling silver.
DPI Jewellery
Time to buy Australian-made
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.
Melbourne 3000 Victoria
Millennium Chain
Finished Top 5 in the category of
Best Selling Gold Jewellery Suppliers in
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.
millennium_chain

“We used to manufacture just 9ct and 18ct
gold, and over the last few years we have
expanded into producing the majority of our
range in sterling silver too. With minimum
requirements, we can also produce other gold
karats,” she said.
The Golden Mile manufactures chains in their
Melbourne based factory. During their 30
years in business, they have purchased leading
machinery and tooling from Europe in order
to produce a constantly growing range of highquality
styles. They also import a few specific
styles from carefully selected suppliers.
“We love working with gold – while other
manufactures may have preferred metals to
work with, gold is our specialty, so it’s always
our go-to,” said Jacinta.
New technological developments are
advancing the possibilities for silver and
stainless steel for chain. Justin Meath from DPI
Jewellery says they have recently introduced
world-leading anti-tarnish technology to
their entire silver chain range, which are all
imported from Italy.
“Customers are loving the point of difference,”
said Justin. “This new technology means
there is no discolouration from sitting under
window lights, during customer fittings and
most importantly, no tarnishing while wearing
means no customer returns.”
The right chain
“Asking a jeweller to name a particular
favourite type of chain is like asking a parent
which child they love the most,” said Natalie
from Millennium Chain. “The timeless curb
chain never goes out of fashion and is always
Millenium Chain
conservative enough to last generations,
but we’ve found the Figaro chain to be quite
popular as well. The diamond cut flat look
is by far the most popular finish for men’s
chains.”
However, Ronnie Shabtay has no trouble
identifying his favourite chain. While Ronnie
Shabtay Fine Jewellery carries a range of basic
chain, such as trace and snake chain, they
specialise in providing the highest quality
cable chain, through their highly successful
20-year partnership with a factory based in
Israel.
“The cable chain is unique in the way it is
produced, using a fine wire and then spinning
other wires around the original wire to create
DPI Jewellery
its distinctive flexibility,” said Ronnie. “The
inside wire will always be the same caratage
as that of the wires being spun around it – for
example, Style 84x11 has 84 wires of 0.11mm
spun around the inside wire.”
“The cable chain is superior in durability
and flexibility, with a longer lifespan of any
comparable chain,” said Ronnie.
Jacinta Collins from The Golden Mile says that
the classic cable/trace chains and the diamond
cut curbs are always their top sellers.
“Being a traditional simple design, they never
go out of style,” she said. Jacinta has also
noticed a huge increase in the popularity
of shorter lengths and also heavier weight
chains. “Our best-selling fine chains are
around the 2-6 grams per chain in a standard
45cm, but this varies greatly depending on
product length.”
The Golden Mile also sells the Spiga chain, one
of their best-selling imported designs.
“The Spiga chain is also known as a ‘magic
wheat chain’ as it reverts to rolling up before
it starts to kink, hence the ‘magic’,” said
Jacinta. “We import this item from an Italian
supplier who is the original manufacturer
of the ‘magic’ chain and has perfected the
techniques of making it. We stock it in three
gauges/widths, in 9 carat in various lengths, in
fixed or variable lengths with the slider and in
32
jewellery world - July 2020

all three colours. We also have some on the spool, so we can cut to any
length required and finish it in your desired length.”
Justin Meath from DPI Jewellery says that the curb and cable are the
most popular chains, particularly on styles which include extension
chains. “These extension chains allow for customizable lengths and has
worked well for the layering trends,” says Justin. “Varying the weight
when wearing these styles helps to add a point of difference.”
George Temelli of Temelli Jewellers in Melbourne says that the curb
chain, birds eye chain and anchor chain are all popular sellers, as they sit
flat on the chest. “The diamond cut is the most popular finish, due to its
smooth and shiny look.” Temelli Jewellers manufacture handmade and
casting chain product as well as importing a variety of machine-made
chains. They supply 9 carat and 18 carat yellow gold, white gold and rose
gold chains and bracelets.
Plated chain
There are a range of expert opinions on the subject of the
recommended micron for plated chain. Hannah Burnley from Morris and
Watson says that it is common practice to think about plating as one
micron per year, so the thicker the plating layer, the longer it will protect
the chain from scratches and deterioration.
Millenium Chain
However, Justin Meath from DPI Jewellery says their anti-tarnish
technology enables them to take a different approach. “We find it
more effective to use a lower micron amount – as low as one – and
then applying the anti-tarnish technology over the top of the silver
chain. This provides a high level of integrity to the plating while
keeping the cost down so it has been a good outcome.”
With the range of designs, metals and price points available, it is no
wonder that chain has remained a firm favourite with customers and a
staple for jewellery businesses.
Time to buy Australian-made
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.
Melbourne 3000 Victoria
Millennium Chain
Finished Top 5 in the category of
Best Selling Gold Jewellery Suppliers in
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.
millennium_chain

Advertorial:
Ronnie Shabtay Fine Jewellery
Apple's Pride Month straps and watch faces
Apple debuted two new strap designs for Pride Month this year,
the third year in a row that it has celebrated the occasion with new
designs.
The two new straps are a boldly rainbow striped model (the Pride
Edition Sport Band) and a more subtle white strap with circular
perforations lined in the different colours of the rainbow (the Nike
Pride Edition.)
Two new rainbow-spangled Pride
watch faces have hit the ios and are
available by doing a 'long press' on
the watch face. The first matches
the wall-to-wall rainbow stripes of
the matching watch band, while the
subtle version marks the hours in
rainbow colours on a black screen.
In a statement, Apple said it’s
“proud to support LGBTQ advocacy
organisations working to bring about
positive change.”
Diamond Importers and
Exporters since 1956
Wholesale
Loose Diamonds
Natural Coloured Diamonds
Natural Precious Stones
CABLE CHAIN
Cable chain is unique in the way it is produced, using a fine wire and
then spinning other wires around the original wire allowing it to have
the flexibility it has.
This inside wire will always be the same caratage as that of the wires
being spun around it. For example, style 84x11 will have 84 wires of
0.11mm spun around the inside wire.
Cable chains have always been synonymous with Ronnie Shabtay Fine
Jewellery in both Australia and New Zealand. Our company has an
extremely successful 20 year partnership with a factory based in Israel
who specialise in the production of the highest quality cable chain.
Our cable chains are available in many different options, but over the
years our bestselling styles are:
19x17 – 1.3mm
84x11 – 1.65mm
126x11 – 2.57mm
David Bouch has all your needs covered in
natural loose diamonds and coloured gemstones.
Call David on 0417 553 310
David Bouch & Co.
We have these made up and available in standard lengths of 40cm,
41cm, 42cm, 45cm and 50cm but also have these three styles on the
roll so we are able to make up any length required.
All cable chains are available in 9ct or 18ct, and in white, yellow or rose
gold, with the choice of either a bayonet or parrot clasp. We can also
supply the chain, clasps and end caps separately, if you are making
a piece which needs to be threaded onto or attached to the chain
permanently.
We also carry Trace and Snake chain in white, yellow and rose gold, as
well as a small range of platinum chain.
Room 605, 6th Floor
75 King Street, Sydney 2000
Mob: 0417 553 310
Email: david@davidbouch.com
www.ronnieshabtay.com
info@ronnieshabtay.com

SEIKO LUKIA.
The glamour of Ginza. The refinement of Japan.
Soon after Japan opened
its doors to the world in
the second half of the 19th
century, the Ginza district
in central Tokyo became its
showcase. When Japan’s
first railway opened in
1872, its Tokyo terminus
was at the edge of Ginza
which rapidly became the centre for shops selling all that was new and
fashionable. It was soon also the hub of the media business and home
to the many cafés and bars that were the new meeting places for artists
and writers.
Today, Ginza remains synonymous with all that is glamorous and
exciting about Tokyo and is, in many respects, Japan’s window on the
world. Ginza is also home to Seiko. Seiko was established in Ginza in
1881 and the Seiko clock that sits atop the Wako store, where Seiko was
long headquartered, is a much-loved Ginza landmark.
Lukia. Capturing the spirit of Ginza.
The new Seiko Lukia collection celebrates the glamour, vivacity and
refinement of today’s Ginza. Since 1995, Lukia has been adorning the
wrists of discerning women in Japan and it is now, for the first time,
available outside of Asia. The collection comprises six creations, each
of which has a dial featuring a traditional Japanese colour overlaid on
a mother-of-pearl base with a flower motif and eight diamond hour
markers. Each dial is coloured from both sides, which allows the full
richness of the colour to blend harmoniously with the texture of the
mother-of-pearl dial. The case offers a soft, delicate feeling on the wrist
thanks to its perfectly rounded edges.
Five of the six new creations will be available from July
2020, with a limited edition to follow in September.
Powered by life. Crafted to be enjoyed.
The new Lukia series is powered by Seiko’s
latest automatic calibre, 6R35, which
delivers a power reserve of 70 hours. It
can be seen through the sapphire case
back, marking time at 21,600 beats per
hour. Each watch is water resistant to
10 bar and has a sapphire crystal that is
resistant to scratches. Lukia is built to be
enjoyed every day, in every situation.
July 2020 35

Emile Chouriet
THE FAIR LADY
LOTUS RED
Tag Heuer collaborates
with Hiroshi Fujiwara
The avant-garde Swiss watchmaker has revealed
its second collaboration with the Godfather of
Streetwear, Hiroshi Fujiwara, with a one-of-a-kind
design equipped with a manufacture movement,
the Calibre Heuer 02. Building on the resounding
success of its first creation with the Japanese
designer and his Fragment Design label in 2018,
the latest collaboration has resulted in a bold yet
minimalistic limited-edition novelty– a pure reflection of TAG Heuer’s
motor-racing heritage and bold design principles, with high-end finishes,
a ceramic bezel and a fiery red sapphire caseback.
Hiroshi Fujiwara is the founder of Fragment Design, a multidisciplinary
label created in 2003. He has since collaborated with some of the
biggest and most renowned names in fashion, design and art. Fujiwara
is a legendary figure who is celebrated in his homeland of Japan and
around the world for his unique take on hip-hop streetwear. Beyond his
legacy in contemporary fashion, Fujiwara is also known for his impact on
mainstream culture, music and covetable design.
Hiroshi Fujiwara explained: “Redesigning this TAG Heuer chronograph
timepiece gave me the opportunity to use an existing legacy to create a
new one. I gave the design a modern and exceptional flair with the red
caseback, which reflects one of the brand’s logo colours and also gives it
a completely new and evolved character”.
The watch will be available to pre-order from www.tagheuer.com and in
select TAG Heuer boutiques before going on sale on July 27th, 2020.
A
natural creation of beauty and a symbol of hope and new
beginnings, the water lily has fascinated mankind for millennia.
Submerging every night into the water and rising anew as
the sun rises, the lotus blooms in a magical way. In China, the lotus
is cherished as a symbol of truth, kindness and beauty. With its lush
petals, often in vibrant red tones, the waterborne flower is enchanting
and seductive.
The lotus is a recurring theme in various ladies models, but the new
Fair Lady Lotus Red is the most literal rendition of the mystical flower
to date. The dial features a three-dimensional motif depicting the
majestic red lotus flower, with a deep red color and gradient effect
that darkens towards the edges. Embellishing the stunningly red dial
are the applied hour markers, each bearing a brilliant white diamond.
Keeping with the floral theme, the rounded polished metal hands
mimic the form of leaves, and are open to allow as much visibility on
the dial as possible while retaining legibility.
Perfectly proportioned for women’s wrists, the round stainless steel
case of the Fair Lady measures 29.2mm wide, with a concave bezel
that provides a soft curvature to the case. The crown and uniquely
shaped lugs are inlaid with red Swarovski crystals that accentuate
the deep tones of the dial. Completing the watch is a black leather
strap. Powering this work of wearable art is the calibre EC5316, an
automatic ETA-based movement with a power reserve of 38 hours
when fully wound.
With the utmost attention to detail and the ambition to create
something feminine yet original, Emile Chouriet demonstrates its
mastery of creating women’s watches with the Fair Lady Lotus Red.
36
jewellery world - July 2020

THE LONGINES HERITAGE TUXEDO
A WILD PARTY FROM THE 1940s
The models have been nicknames “Tuxedo” by collections, the contrast
of black and white on their dial reminds us of the suits worn during the
elegant and festive evenings of the time.
To respect the spirit of the original models, Longines has chosen not to
add the word Automatic on the dials and there is also no date window
on the contemporary models.
The 3-hand model features an opaline silver disc surrounded by a matt
black circle. The small seconds counter is located at
6 o’clock and off-centre. The 38.5mm
dial houses the exclusive L893.5
movement with its silicon
balance spring.
Longines celebrates the carefree spirit of the late 1940s with two
new Heritage Classic Tuxedo creations - one with 3 hands, the
other featuring a chronograph.
After the harshness of WWII came a time of prosperity and celebration.
Elegance was back in fashion. Men wore suits and women wore nylon
stockings - gasp! People got dressed up and danced all night to the new
rhythm of the jazz bands. The new models from Longines are inspired
by historic pieces designed in the spirit of their time, modernised.
The chronograph version
houses a L895.5 calibre
in its 40.0mm case and
features a tachymetric
scale on its dial - rare for
a Longines watch - but
faithful to the original.
July 2020 37

KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE
How to make a Ball Catch (Key Lock)
The Ball Catch is a great project for 2nd year apprentices as it
covers a lot of important skills and requires moderate to advanced
fabrication and soldering skills. This type of catch is very secure and
would usually be incorporated into a string of pearls or beads and the
size should be customised to suit the gemstones.
1This project requires sterling silver
sheet measuring 0.8mm x 64mm x
18mm for the ball part.The key clip
requires2.7mm x 2.7mm x 35mm.
Mark out two discs with an approximate
diameter of 15mm and cut them out.
Anneal them so they are ready for forming.
2Form the discs in your doming block,
working them gradually until they
become perfect half spheres.
Raising the rim to the level of the
block can be done by tilting the domes
and rotating them at an angle as you form
them with the doming punch.
3File the rim of the domed pieces
flat and put them together. Take
a measurement from crown to
crown of the domed pieces with
your vernier caliper and then check to
make sure you have the same diameter
measurement across the rim. This will
confirm that you have a perfect sphere. If
not, continue forming them in the doming
block to increase the dome height.
Now scribe around the domes onto the
sheet and cut out two discs.
4
File the discs until they fit perfectly
into the rim of the domed pieces.
Make sure they fit perfectly flat and
level. If the disc fits too far in and
there is a step between the disc and the
dome it will distort the final shape, so you
will have to start again.
5Now form approximately 8mm of
the end of the square wire into a
round profile with a hammer and
bench block then tidy it up with a
file. Drill a hole into the centre of the discs
and bur them out so that the round wire
fits tightly into one disc but inserts freely
into the other. Cut off the 8mm. Now cut
off around 6mm of square wire and roll
short ways until it is 1.5mm thick x 4mm x
6mm. This will form the key lock.
6
File the edges of the rolled piece
flat, then file a groove into one
4mm end so that it fits against the
round wire section.
Line the piece up to the round wire section
making sure it lines up perfectly square.
There will be a step from the round wire to
the key piece.
Hard solder them together.
38
jewellery world - July 2020

7ball.
Once you have pickled the key, file
a curve from the top to the bottom
end of the key. This curve should
match the profile of the inside of the
Test fit it into the disc with the smaller hole.
It should hold in place without going in.
This will be soldered later.
8
Cut a slot that matches the profile of
the key into the other disc.
The key should be able to pass
through without being too firm or loose.
9
Now prepare the two half balls for
soldering, making sure the disc edges
and the domed inner edges are
cleaned and fluxed.
Line the parts up carefully to ensure there are
no steps. Place pieces of hard grade solder
around and solder the joints. Use a neutral
flame to limit the chance of firescale.
Once you have finished, pickle them to clean
off the flux and remove the oxides.
10
File off any excess solder and
remove any tool marks with
emery paper.
Before you fit the key, drill a small hole next
to the centre hole. This will allow the hot air
to escape during the solder process. Fit the
key, making sure that it lines up levelwith
the gap matching the metal thickness. Also,
make sure the key hides the small hole.
Solder with medium grade.
11will need to open the gap slightly.
Test to see if the key will turn
when inserted. It is likely that you
A Moores sanding disc is ideal for making
the adjustments.
Once the catch functions correctly, put it
together and turn it around a quarter turn.
Mark out for where the jump rings will be
fixed. They must be opposite each other
when the catch is locked.
12
Make two small jump rings. In
this case the jump ring wire is
0.8mm round and the internal
diameter is 1.3mm.
Position the jump rings on the faced down
components so that they do not obstruct
each other when the catch swivels around.
You can use easy grade solder for the final
joints.
When a string of pearls or beads are attached to the catch, the wearer will
have to turn the jump rings close to each other to unlock the ball catch,
making it a very secure fastening mechanism.
Peter Keep is a
master jeweller
and teacher. He
offers structured
online courses
that have helped
thousands of
students around
the world improve
their skills.
Jewellery Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service
including the very popular Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.
The video tutorial for this lesson can be found
in the Silver level (Apprentice courses)
https://jewellery-training-solutions.thinkific.com/courses/key-lock-ball-catch
Check out the other courses
and options:
www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au
July 2020 39

services
services
Supplier to
all buying groups
Fast delivery Australia wide
THE BATTERY MAN
services
OLD CUT DIAMONDS
Rubies Sapphires Emeralds
Simon Prestige Jewellery
View Our Range Online at www.spj.com.au
for sale
PO Box 112
Toronto NSW 2283
P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168
E: sales@adelaimports.com
Adela Imports offer over 180
designs of sterling silver chain,
with up to 20 lengths available
in each from stock.
Also offering a range of
uniquely designed silver
jewellery.
Catalogue available.
www.adelaimports.com
Nearly 40 years of trusted
service to the Watch &
Jewellery Industry.
Free call: 1800 244 354
Your one stop battery shop
& much more.
orders@thebatteryman.com.au
www.thebatteryman.com.au
MILN & CO. Pty Ltd
Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834
E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au
Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.
Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.
Pins/tools. Jewellery findings. J C Hurst Bangles.
Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks
Fast
Versatile
Glues
Chris O’Neill
Piecemaker
2015 YJG Bench Challenge
Hand Engraving Champion.
Also specialising in quality
Handmakes, Repairs and
Antique restorations in the
Sydney CBD.
0405 689 834
BUSINESS FOR SALE
Aspiring Jewellers
Wanaka For Sale
A golden opportunity
for a lifestyle change.
Established for 14 years
and includes an onsite
jewellery workshop.
The premium product,
service and location
ensure impressive and
consistent trading
levels.
The current owners are
now ready to retire.
Wanaka New Zealand
Ricky +64 27 418 1889
Donna +64 27 2203368
www.businessesforsale.co.nz
Licensed REAA 2008
Ref 31176
40
jewellery world - July 2020

Noosa Heads, Queensland
Luxury jewellery store located on exclusive Hastings Street
opposite iconic Main Beach
Beautiful modern gallery style shop Þt-out
for sale
Existing local, interstate and international client base
International airport opening 2022
LIFESTYLE FOR SALE
Comprehensive handover
Noosa Heads, Queensland
Great return on investment
Luxury jewellery store located on the exclusive Hastings Street
opposite iconic Main Beach
Contact Gordon on 0419672411
Beautiful modern gallery style shop fit-out
Existing local, interstate and international client base
International airport opening 2022
Comprehensive handover
$880k
CONTACT GORDON ON 0419 672 411
ATHAN
IMPORTERS OF
FINE ITALIAN
JEWELLERY
18CT SPECIALISTS
ANGER
• Modern Layout, Set up as Retail + Jewellery Workshop or Watchmaker
JEWELLERY STORE FOR SALE - NOW $155K
• Main St, Corner dual glass frontage, Mid North Coast NSW
• High Traffic - Pharmacist next door, Database etc
• Realistic rent, no outgoings on lease with option in place
• Hottest spot on the coast for tourism - Contact agent: 0408 652 985
Relaxing...
If you can see a glass of beer here...
...you've been in lockdown too long.
9CT & 18CT CHAINS INCLUDING...
TRACE CHAINS 1.0mm - 2.4mm
WHEAT CHAINS 1.0mm - 2.0mm
CURB CHAINS regular and open
14CT & 18CT W/G & Y/G ROUND
OMEGAS 1.0mm, 1.5mm & 2.0mm
14CT & 18CT 2/T OMEGAS 2.0mm, 2.5mm & 3.0mm
18CT UNSET TENNIS MOUNTS 0.03ct - 0.50ct
POSSIBLY THE FINEST QUALITY
AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET
SUITE 602/220 COLLINS ST. MELBOURNE VIC 3000
T: 03 9663 2321 F: 03 9663 7821 E: info@athan.com.au
PURCHASE ONLINE
www.athan.com.au

NEW PRODUCTS
Jewellery Centre | +61 7 3221 3838
Jewellery Centre’s latest Italian range includes these
pieces in sterling silver with a touch of pink.
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com
Bee Jewellery | +61 2 8338 1200
Australian made CZ bezel studs in sterling silver 8 pairs for
less than $60.00
2 pairs each 35757/CZ30, 35757/CZ40, 35757/CZ50, 35757/
CZ60, comes with the acrylic stand
These silver ear studs are locally made, beautiful quality
and come complete with a cute acrylic stand complete with
pricing and all.
If you want to order one of these stands just search for
35757/CZ and add two of each.
Due to the low wholesale value of these studs, the display
comes with a minimum two pairs in each size.
www.beejewel.com.au
Bolton Gems | 1800 777 413
75 brand new spectacular Columbian Emeralds just landed in
our Brisbane Office! Contact us now to order yours before it’s
too late!
www.boltongems.com.au
bastian inverun | Osjag | +61 2 9630 6619
New from Germany, bastian inverun's beautiful new silver range.
www.osjag.com
42
jewellery world - July 2020

GREAT
ADVERTISING
PACKAGES
AVAILABLE
Since its launch in 1997, the
user-friendly JW Directory
remains the industry’s most
up-to-date, relevant and
respected sourcebook.
2021 DIRECTORY
TIME ON YOUR
HANDS?
UPDATE YOUR DETAILS NOW
If you are an Australian or New Zealand jewellery
business, you can register FREE to appear in the
2021 Jewellery World Directory.
Take a moment to update your details to be sure
that your business details are correct.
The Directory is distributed to 5,000 retailers
across Australia and New Zealand.
Visit www.jwdirectory.com.au
or contact Jeremy Keight on 0431 844 903 or Jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au

From our inventory, to yours...
BECOME AN OFFICIAL
STOCKIST
Due to an increase in enquiries from retail customers,
we are upgrading the online presence of our stockist
function on our website. It’s another way O’Neils Affiliated
are trying to keep the Australian Jewellery industry
vibrant and busy in the face of overseas and online sales.
Please visit www.oagems.com
or call our friendly team on 03 9654 5200
for more information.