Jewellery World Magazine - October 2020

OCTOBER 2020
AUSTRALIA AND NEW
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Jewellery World Magazine
ABN: 41 143 385 895
ISSN: 2207-6751
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570
P: 0431 844 903
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au
managing director
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au
editor
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au
contributing writers
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
Stefan Juengling
Cheryl D Harty
REGULARS
6 News
12 Trade Well with Rami Baron
14 JAA News
40 Watches
42 Keeping Skills Alive
46 New Products
50 Directory
FEATURES
20
24
art
design@jewelleryworld.net.au
advertising sales
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au
18 The Quiet Achiever
True competition emerges in the Australian
precious metals market
20 Australian Pearls - Positively Pure
Beautiful, natural and good for the environment,
Australian pearls have it all
24 Uncommonly Beautiful Wedding Rings
Wedding ring trends are always evolving. We take a
look at some emerging styles
28 Corporate Profile: Infinity Rings
Contemporary and customisable rings are at
the heart of this business
28
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Publisher’s endorsement.
The Publisher excludes all liability for
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false
or misleading statements that may appear
in this publication.
All information is copyright.
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AUSTRALIA AND NEW
OCTOBER 2020
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
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jewellery world - October 2020

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News
Jewellery on the bench
Iconic US Supreme Court judge Ruth Bader Ginsburg is being remembered for her
extraordinary legacy as a pioneer for women’s rights.
Ginsburg was also known for her trademark habit of using the white jabots she
wore over her judge’s gown to add a “voice” to her outfit, such as her “Majority
Opinion” and “Dissent” collars.
In one formal Supreme Court photograph, Ginsburg wore a metallic necklace in
place of her collar. The necklace was made by an admirer, lawyer Susan Hyman,
who had modelled the design on Ginsburg’s collars, and then sent her the Silver
Pegasus necklace as a tribute to “her pioneering life’s work to advance women’s
equality. I wrote that I hoped she would wear it with pride and joy.”
Mikimoto launches a fragrance
Mikimoto, the originator of cultured pearls, has
partnered with Scent Beauty, the world's first multibrand
e-commerce platform for bespoke scents, to
introduce their first-ever fragrance. Launching in the
U.S. in September, Mikimoto Eau de Parfum is the
brand's first foray into the fragrance category and is
indicative of their increased focus on beauty within the
luxury marketplace.
Expert fragrance designer, Raymond Matts, and master
perfumer, Frank Voelkl, came together to create a
signature scent inspired by the brand's nautical identity.
The timeless, gender-neutral scent offers universal
appeal, while the bottle, designed by Lance McGregor,
emulates the exquisite color and lustre of pearls to
create an uber-minimalist expression of the jewellery
brand's identity.
Mikimoto Eau de Parfum is now available for purchase
at MikimotoAmerica.com and ScentBeauty.com, and
'Behind the Fragrance: Mikimoto Eau de Parfum' can be
viewed at: https://youtu.be/PILCVFn1msg.
Hyman said that the necklace was intended to resemble “something a warrior
princess like Wonder Woman would wear as armour in battle. It projects strength,
confidence and fearlessness.” Hyman was thrilled to receive a handwritten note
from Ginsburg, thanking her for the gift, and even more thrilled when Ginsburg
wore the necklace publicly multiple times.
Man stumbles over 9 carat diamond
The US state of Arkansas is famous for its diamonds, yet when a local man has
discovered a stone weighing more than nine carats and so large, he originally
thought he’d stumbled onto a piece of glass.
Keven Kinard, aged 33, was searching at the Crater of Diamonds State Park on Labor
Day, working on the policy of picking up “anything that looked like crystal.”
“It kind of looked interesting and shiny, so I put it in my bag and kept searching. I
just thought it might’ve been glass,” Kinard said. When he had completed searching,
he was shocked when park officials told him that he had found a
diamond.
At 9.07 carats, the diamond is the second-largest ever found at Crater
of Diamonds State Park since it opened in 1972, surpassed only by the
16.37-carat Amarillo Starlight, which was unearthed in August 1975,
and remains the largest diamond found in the US.
The stone has been named the Kinard Friendship Diamond, and Kinard
should be able to keep it as a souvenir of his visit.
6
jewellery world - October 2020

Signature
Style
WORTH & DOUGLAS
PO Box 866, Tullamarine, VIC 3043
@wdrings | 03 9338 0091 / 1800 006 388 | sales@worthdouglas.com.au | www.worthdouglas.com

News
Bling still rocks at Virtual Emmy Awards
The Emmy Awards might have been a virtual
event this year, but this just meant the jewellery
had to be more spectacular, in order to be seen
clearly when social distancing.
Zendaya, the youngest woman and second
black woman to win Outstanding Lead Actress
in a Drama category, wore a magnificent Bulgari
necklace featuring an array of purple, pink and
emerald jewels, along with four Bulgari rings.
Reese Witherspoon accessorised her little black
dress with Louis Vuitton jewellery including Lune
Bleue earrings and a ring in white gold, sapphires
and diamonds, along with a white gold, diamond
and ruby Astre Rouge bracelet.
Ozark star Julia Garner, who won Best Supporting
Actress, went for a 1920s look, wearing a satin
Chanel blouse and matching trousers, and
multiple strands of pearls.
Online trade shows proving successful
While people can’t currently attend trade shows in
person, the positive side to 2020 means that trade
shows are open 24 hours a day and anyone with
Internet access can attend, regardless of where it is
held in the world.
A three-day online Diamond Trade Show in August,
featuring 50 exhibitors from Antwerp and Israel
was open around the clock and included direct
communication features such as live videochat.
Held by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre and
Israeli Diamond Institute, in collaboration with VDB
Expo, the event attracted more than 800 registered
professional buyers from over 50 countries.
“As market sentiment improves and demand is
picking up ahead of the holiday season, now is the
right time to connect with clients and suppliers, the
VDBExpo platform allows to do that seamlessly, from
the comfort of your home", said Karen Rentmeesters,
Senior Manager Communications at the AWDC.
Trillions of diamond planets
In recent years, scientists have hypothesised the possibility of planets made entirely
of diamond, but it is now believed there may, in fact, be trillions of such planets.
New research published in The
Planetary Science Journal suggests
that planets with both water and
high carbon to oxygen rations
- known as carbide exoplanets
- could form vast quantities of
diamonds.
“In the universe, there are about
100 billion planets in our galaxy
and 100 billion galaxies in the
universe,” Harrison Allen-Sutter,
the study’s lead author and
graduate assistant at Arizona
State’s School of Earth and Space Exploration, told Business Insider. “Even if
diamond planets are only one-in-a-billion, the near-unfathomably vast size of the
universe means there could still be upwards of trillions diamond planets in the
universe.”
The researchers in the study simulated the conditions on such a planet in the lab
and determined that if heat and pressure are suitably intense and if the planet has
water and silicon carbide these would be converted to super-compressed carbon
crystals - diamonds.
Gold mining’s contribution to the UN
SDGs
The World Gold Council has released a new report
Gold Mining’s Contribution to the UN Sustainable
Development Goals, which looks at the significant
contribution the gold mining industry makes to
social and economic development.
The report includes 39 case studies on how WGC
members are bringing about positive change across
four thematic areas: global partnerships; social
inclusion; economic development and responsible
energy use and environmental stewardship.
The World Gold Council has long supported a
position that responsible gold mining can support
sustained socio-economic development for the
communities and countries that host gold mining
operations.
In addition to the four thematic areas outlined
above, the report also places the spotlight on three
topical themes ; namely artisanal and small-scale
gold mining (ASGM), how the pandemic has
reinforced the very premise of the SDGs and gold’s
role in innovative technologies, including the energy
transition.
Read the full report at www.gold.org
8
jewellery world - October 2020

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News
Consult with an expert
Ray Tester has been in the industry for over
46 years, with the last seven as diamond
bridal buyer for Michael Hill, and has moved
on to start his own consulting business. Since
his exit from Michael Hill, Ray’s expertise
has been keenly sort after and now he has
indicated he is able to help any business with
general guidance and direction in areas of his
speciality.
The 2020 Argyle showcase - One Lifetime, One Encounter
Rio Tinto’s annual Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender, the most exclusive diamond sale in the world,
has taken its inspiration for its 2020 showcase from the Japanese philosophy of Ichigo Ichie,
celebrating the unrepeatable nature of a moment in time.
Rio Tinto’s Argyle mine in the remote East Kimberley region of Western Australia produces
virtually the entire world’s supply of rare pink diamonds and will cease production at the end of
2020.
“Operating since 1983, the Argyle pink diamond jewellery phenomenon started in Japan in the
late 1980s when Japanese designers boldly embraced Argyle’s pink diamonds and incorporated
them in beautiful and innovative designs,” said Patrick Coppens, general manager, sales
and marketing for Rio Tinto’s diamonds business. “In Japan today the Argyle pink hues are
synonymous with romance and love and there is an unerring appetite for the smallest, palest
pink diamonds, through to the rarest red diamonds.”
Titled One Lifetime, One Encounter, the 2020 Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender takes its reference
from the closure of the iconic mine at the end of 2020, after almost four decades of production.
“The Argyle pink diamond story has continued to enthral throughout the years following the
remarkable discovery of the Argyle mine in 1979,” said Patrick Coppens. “The 2020 Argyle
Pink Diamonds Tender is a collection of rare earthly treasures, intricate works of art and with a
potency of colour that will be keenly sought after by collectors and connoisseurs from around
the world.”
The 2020 Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender is a historic collection of 62 diamonds including six
‘hero’ diamonds selected for their unique beauty and named to ensure there is a permanent
record of their contribution to the history of the world’s most important diamonds. Lot Number
3 in this year’s collection has been named Argyle Sakura in honour of Japan’s love of the cherry
blossom hues of Argyle pink diamonds. Argyle Sakura is the largest Fancy Vivid pear shaped
diamond offered in 37 years of the Argyle Pink Diamonds Tenders.
Also included in the Tender 2020 offering are 12 lots of carefully curated and never to be
repeated sets of miniature rare Argyle pink, red, blue and violet diamonds, weighing 13.90
carats in total. Titled The Petite Suites, these collectible diamonds have been meticulously
collected over a five year period, striking a harmonious balance between size, shape, colour and
clarity.
Due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic the 2020 Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender has been
previewed virtually with exclusive invitees before viewings later in the year at the Argyle mine,
in Perth and then travelling to Singapore and Antwerp. Bids close on December 2, 2020.
“I have an extensive
network developed
after a lifetime spent
in this industry,”
said Ray. “My last
position with Michael
Hill was the global
strategic sourcing
manager - effectively
the link between buyers, vendors, logistics
and risk management. The ever-changing
consumer demands for transparency of the
supply chain was a speciality area. I worked
closely with international certification groups
and am well placed to advise on strategies
for concise consumer communication.I was
heavily involved from January 2020 in the rapid
deployment of enhancements to the existing
e-commerce business and, in particular,
development of products for online exclusive
offers resulting in unapparelled growth in this
period of uncertainty and changing consumer
demands.”
Ray said it would be his pleasure to assist any
business to navigate the convoluted jewellery
chain of supply to arrive at the best product/
cost solutions tailored to suit your individual
requirements or even assist in strategies to
attract consumers to your business.
“Please contact me and let’s see if we
can connect and enhance your business
opportunities.”
Ray Tester Consulting
Email: raytester@bigpond.com
Ph: +61 413 709 033
10
jewellery world - October 2020

October 20th and 21st
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EXHIBITORS
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OKAY! SO WHAT NOW?
Have you noticed the subtle (or not-so-subtle) change in how people speak today?
The first question is, how are you? but
the next one is, how’s business? Have
you noticed how no one is smiling when
asking this question, no one is optimistic, and
everyone has given up on handing out any
practical advice - (tradies excluded but they
seem embarrassed at how well they are doing,
when they should be proud).
When I’m asked, I break into the smile. Why?
Because, my retort to this question is “it all
depends on your expectations.” Adjust your
expectations and you might be doing okay - if
you can pay your bills, in today’s world, you
are considered ahead of the game.
As you can imagine, whenever I talk to anyone
within our industry, I am constantly asked
what is new? what is cool? and what are
others doing? What they really want to hear
is some little gem of advice that is going to be
super easy and will bring them a plethora of
customers. Yeah, right.
I was talking with a good colleague of mine
about new features he built into his website.
He was so excited, and yet some of his best
clients did not even try using it. Why not? It
could save them time and money and create
a different customer experience. He was so
surprised at their lack of interest.
Our problem today is not about saving
time and money, it’s about stopping and
understanding your customer’s journey. This
is the problem that few appreciate or have
even thought about. It doesn’t matter where
in the pipeline you sit, it doesn’t matter what
your customer’s journey is from before they
walk into your store, it doesn’t matter whether
your place of business is as a wholesaler or a
web retailer. Every single interaction with your
business needs to be analysed and questioned
so that you can map it out, improve it, and
then make it a process that will be replicated
every time a customer interacts with your
business.
Sit down and write it out— Now! Go back to
it every day for five minutes, discuss it with
your team, every miniscule step. I know, it
sounds ominous and you just want to get
back to doing things as you did before, and
you still made money. Sorry to tell you, what
worked then just will not work in the future.
Your competitors are doing this and refining it,
all the time. If you don’t know where to start,
drop me an email and I can point you in the
right direction to some people who can help.
The research shows clearly that the luxury
segment of consumers will shop around for
the best option. This means that there is a
decline in brand loyalty. Just because you were
their family jeweller, this factor does not have
the same pulling power as previously.
The statistics tell us that 95 percent of people
are looking online first. However, 65 percent
of those people will spend their money in
traditional retail environments.
12
jewellery world - October 2020

DDCA NEWS
Rami Baron
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia
rami@ddca.org.au
Our problem today is not about saving time and money, it’s
about stopping and understanding your customer’s journey.
So here is the critical point I want you to take away.
Your customers and my customers want to move seamlessly between
online and off-line. A customer may see a new product online, read up
about it, if possible visit the store to see it and touch it, and then they
will purchase it online, because it was easier to do so.
You may recall, I wrote an article about the omni-channel - it is about
creating the same experience on your website as you do in your own
business.
You need to make sure that you have the tools to capture whatever
your potential customer is looking at on your website. Imagine the
power when they come into your store, knowing what they have
looked at last week, and what they clicked on. As far as they are
concerned, they were in your store, they do not see it as two separate
entities and nor should they. If you are clumsy at this transition and
say things like “oh, our website hasn’t been updated in a while“, or “I
don’t know what is there now” you are dead in the water and look very
amateurish.
The obvious question is how to do this? Simple, give them a reason
to identify themselves on your website. By asking them to register on
your website at the start, maybe for a newsletter or a special offers or
vouchers, and make it a big deal that they should present this voucher,
which they can save on their phone, when they come in-store, you
have created a tool that allows for “continuity”. The voucher could
have a bar code on it, so when they give it to you in-store and you scan
it, their web surfing history appears.
Gone are the days, when the website should be cheaper than the
store - it should all be one and the same. Your POS system (digital cash
register) should be integrated into your website.
I know that many of you struggle with technology, and you might agree
that the previous idea was cool, but you would not even know where
to start.
Let us think of some things that you could do that many others don’t.
Instead of putting a chat bot on your website (it’s one of those robotic
chat things that I really don’t like, because they fail most of the time),
why not put a picture of yourself, and say that you are happy to give
them a call. If it is during the day, suggest a WhatsApp video call. I
would get an old phone that isn’t used anymore, put in a SIM card from
the business, set it up on a tripod with good lighting and create a spot
where either you or one of your team could always speak to potential
or existing customers who are surfing online.
I know we do not like to work after hours but hey, these are different
times. If you have a chance to chat to a client at 9 o’clock in the
evening because that is when they are looking for a diamond ring,
why wouldn’t you? Can you really afford to miss these sorts of
opportunities? The business that we are in today has greater demands
and maybe the office phone has to be handed around every day to a
team member so the sales assistants are available to speak at 10 pm if
that’s when the customer wants to speak.
Once you stop and really think about these issues, in particular the
customer journey, chat to colleagues and look at what other retailers
are doing. You will see that it is a lot of fun. Your team will come up
with some great ideas of how this journey could be improved. You will
map it out, see the gaps, and develop a “great customer experience.”
At the end of the day that’s what we all want, but a great experience is
what will set you apart.
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.
October 2020 13

PRESIDENT'S
MESSAGE
Jo Tory
As an association, it is important for the JAA to continually assess the needs of members
and the wider industry to ensure the delivery of benefits and projects are in line with
the needs of the industry. One of the ways in which we do this is via an annual survey of
members and, most recently, via an industry-wide survey of non-members.
The responses we receive from these surveys
contribute to our planning and focus of
resources to provide better services and
initiatives to advance the Australia jewellery
industry through representation, unity and
consumer confidence.
Of those who responded to the member
survey we found 63% had been a member of
the JAA for over 10 years - a positive indication
of loyalty to the JAA and industry. The overall
sentiment of members was very satisfied with
their membership with many indicating they
would highly recommend JAA membership to
a peer.
JAA members believed that the JAA provides
many different benefits, those most valued
by our members were news and connections,
and knowing that the JAA represents all
sectors the industry.
Feedback received included that a number
of JAA benefits and projects, including our
customer complaints service, business
support and insurance, require greater
promotion as responses indicated members
did not know enough about these offerings.
The top challenges reportedly faced by
members were attracting sales, increasing
overheads as well as gold prices, exchange
rates and competition. These challenges
provide the JAA team a clear direction to work
on for members.
Members consistently mentioned their
favourite thing about being part of the JAA is
keeping up to date, education opportunities,
being part of a community and feeling
connected, and comfort in knowing they are
‘insured’ by being part of the association, a
level of protection not provided elsewhere.
The majority of respondents in our wider
industry survey reported their understanding
of the JAA is to support the Australian
jewellery industry, which is exactly our
purpose.
Overwhelmingly, respondents deemed awards
and competitions as the most important
JAA initiative. Further to this, educational
workshops and conference were the top two
events respondents would be interested in
attending.
An interesting finding was that 74% of member
respondents said they belonged to another
association, whilst 61% of non-members said
they did not belong to an association or buying
group. This finding may indicate the different
business structures in the industry and their
requirements for external support systems.
It was heartening to read overall that the
industry is quite positive about the future of
the industry and its ability to recover post
COVID.
My love for the industry was also shared by
respondents who said their favourite thing
about the industry was their ability to be
creative and design, as well as creating lasting
memories for happy customers plus sharing
their passion with those in the trade.
We thank those who have taken the time to
complete these surveys. Engagement with the
industry is something we continually strive
to increase as it provides enormous value to
helping us fulfil our mission of advancing the
Australian jewellery industry.
14
jewellery world - October 2020

J A A
D E S I G N
R E N D E R
A drawing competition celebrating Australia and New
Zealand's jewellery design and sketching skills. The
Competition honours the diverse talent of local artisans
by showcasing their distinguished talents in hand and
digital drawing. People's choice voting is now open.
V O T E N O W
J A A . C O M . A U / VOTE
P R O U D L Y S P O N S O R E D

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THE QUIET ACHIEVER
True competition emerges in the
Australian precious metals market
Some of you may know that Palloys offers refining services through ABC Refinery.
What makes ABC refinery unique?
Amid the global investment push
towards precious metals, ABC Refinery
has emerged as a global innovator in
the otherwise staid world of precious metal
refining and bullion trading. Single-handedly
toppling a government monopoly, ABC
Refinery has grown to become one of the
world’s largest primary precious metal refiners
currently refining over 25% of gold volume and
70% of the silver in the region – and growing.
This market disrupter’s enviable rate of growth
is driven by an emphasis on partnering with
mining clients who share ABC Refinery’s vision
of efficiency, sustainability and supply chain
integrity.
Mining partner. Market innovator. Market
disrupter. Monopoly buster.
These are all labels that ABC Refinery,
the refinery arm of Australasia’s largest
independent precious metal services group
Pallion welcomes.
Gold processed at ABC Refinery currently
accounts for 25% of the Australasian market,
while the silver component equates to 70%
of the market in the region. And in FY 2021,
ABC Refinery is expected to process about 100
metric tonnes of gold and roughly 500 metric
tonnes of silver.
These are significant numbers – especially in
the context of a market that was dominated by
one monopoly player for over 20 years.
“We pride ourselves on having brought true
competition to the Australasian market,”
explains Pallion chief commercial officer
David Woodford. “We like to say that we have
brought ‘optionality’ to the Australian precious
metal mining sector”.
And while it is trite to say that when firms
compete with each other, consumers get the
best possible prices, quantity, and quality
service, ABC Refinery stresses another very
tangible outcome. Partnership.
“ABC Refinery is not just a service provider,”
says Mr Woodford. “Our enviable rate of
growth is driven by the fact that we partner
with our clients for long term mutual benefit.
Indeed, our strategy is to carefully select
partners who share our vision of efficiency,
sustainability and supply chain integrity”.
“Not being constrained by legacy systems,
we champion the Australian gold sector
globally by investing in the best people and
utilising the latest environmentally sustainable
technologies. And, our strategic location
in Australia’s largest trading hub provides
significant logistical advantages to our partners
in both domestic and international markets,”
says Mr Woodford.
It’s these factors that enable ABC Refinery
to bring real competition to the market and
significant bottom line refining and transport
savings to its partners.
18
jewellery world - October 2020

ABC Refinery and its parent company Pallion
operate across the entire value chain of
precious metals from refining mined dorè
to bullion trading to producing jewellery for
global jewellery houses. That position is a
unique one – not just locally, but globally.
The strong demand for ABC Bullion branded
precious metal supports all of Pallion’s
subsidiaries. As Mr Woodford explains,
“Demand starts with ABC Refinery’s rapidly
increasing share of the Australasian market
in unprocessed precious metals from mining
companies. In turn, this is supported by strong
demand throughout the region for ABC Bullion
bars that are produced by ABC Refinery.”
Accreditation by the likes of LBMA, SGE,
COMEX, RJC, NATA, ISO, ILAC, IEC and
Standards Australia are seen by ABC
Refinery as merely a base line in the broader
commitment of ABC Refinery and Pallion
to responsible sourcing – an increasingly
necessary requirement not just at the
consumer level but at the broader wholesale
and investment level as well.
“Our various accreditations demonstrate a
threshold and expectation of ABC Refinery to
perform ESG at an extremely high level. But,
responsible sourcing is about more than just
accreditation. The commitment to responsible
supply chains has to come from within,”
Woodford says, in light
of Pallion publishing its
first ever sustainability
report in respect of the
2020 financial year as
part of its Considerate
Precious Metals
commitment.
“ABC Refinery and the
broader Pallion group
have a real commitment
to responsible and
sustainable sourcing
and production. So, if
you are an end user of
Pallion products you can
buy knowing that we strive to adhere to best
practice along the entire value chain.”
“The Considerate Precious Metals Report
considers the whole spectrum of the Pallion
enterprise annually and reports on our
corporate responsibility initiatives and their
impact on our own people, society, charities,
the environment as well as local and the
global economies. The Report has been
prepared in accordance with the GRI (Global
Reporting Initiative) to ensure our products
are benchmarked at an international level,” he
says.
Technology and innovation are becoming
increasingly important in assisting
organisations with their ESG agendas and
ABC Refinery is recognised as a global leader
in that regard. In addition to its proprietary
electrolytic gold refining (EGR) technology that
has improved speed of output as compared
to traditional EGR methods by approximately
30%, ABC Refinery boasts the world’s largest
environmentally friendly ALS refining
capacity.
The only refiner in the southern hemisphere
to offer ALS refining to the industry, ABC
Refinery utilises this ground breaking
technology in its pre-refining process in order
to remove silver and light elements from
Au/Ag/Cu alloys using vacuum distillation
technology. Unlike traditional refining
technologies, the process does not use
chemicals and produces no exhaust fumes.
It also further improves the efficiency of ABC
Refinery’s refining process as compared to
traditional competitor methods. Further to
its environmental benefits, ALS refining
technology results in no precious metal
loss, significantly improved speed of output
and approximately 40% reduced operative
costs compared to traditional refining
technologies.“Of course, these benefits are
passed on to our mining clients as part of our
corporate ethos of partnership,” notes Mr
Woodford.
Complementing that responsible sourcing
environmental commitment are ABC Refinery’s
developments in the electronic tracing of
metal inputs in-line with an emphasis from
consumers on responsible sourcing and
supply chain integrity. “ABC Refinery has
partnered with software company Blockhead
Technologies to create a technology platform
that enables precious metal traceability and
tampering detection called STAMP Vision.
STAMP Vision uses blockchain technology to
store bullion fingerprints in a way that ensures
data integrity and that the fingerprints have
not been tampered with,” says Mr Woodford.
October 2020 19

By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies
AUSTRALIAN PEARLS
POSITIVELY PURE
As a third-generation member of the pearling family behind Cygnet Bay Pearls in Western
Australia, James Brown of Pearls of Australia is passionate about educating consumers
and the jewellery industry about pearl production and grading, and most importantly, the
positive impact of pearls on the environment.
James Brown believes the best way to learn
about pearls is to become familiar with their
natural environment, so he uses tourism as a
platform for education.
“Just as we have wine regions, we can have
pearl regions,” said James. The first “pearl
region” is Cygnet Bay on the Kimberley Coast,
the home of Australian South Sea Pearls.
James and his team have created experiences
around the natural environment, so tourists
can explore every aspect of the pearl region
from a pearling tour to a broader eco tour
or sea safari, with the option of staying in
local accommodation and eating at the fully
licenced restaurant.
A few years ago, James relocated to the
Central Coast of NSW where he is now running
the Pearls of Australia’s second pearl region –
Broken Bay Pearl Farm, home of the Australian
Akoya Pearl – and instilling the same principles
of education through tourism.
Visitors to Broken Bay Pearls can enjoy a
cruise along the Hawkesbury River towards
a secluded little bay lined with rock oysters;
the pearl oysters are beneath the surface,
in baskets suspended from a long rope
line. While those oysters are not yet ready
for harvest, tourists can watch the exciting
process of opening a “ripe” pearl oyster to
reveal a pearl.
Later, the tourists can visit the grading room
to learn about the five virtues of a pearl that
define its quality: lustre, surface, shape, size
and colour.
Australian pearls are also defined by two
other virtues – provenance and purity. The
pearls of Broken Bay are sold straight from
the farm, either direct to customers or to
specific retailers who can maintain the chain
of custody and can pass on the certificate of
origin and grading. The purity of the pearls
refers to the fact that unlike most pearls
on the market, Pearls of Australia feature
their natural colour and sheen, and they are
untreated and unenhanced. Provenance and
20
jewellery world - October 2020

purity are particularly important qualities in order to differentiate from
lower quality treated pearls on the market.
James is determined to change the lack of education about the quality of
pearls, so the end user has the ability to make astute purchases. “People
don’t know how to assess a pearl, the way they can assess a diamond
using the 4Cs,” he said.
With James Brown’s journey from Western Australia to New South
Wales, the history of the Australian pearling industry has come full circle.
While WA is famous for its pearls, few people are aware that there was
always the potential for a significant pearling industry in NSW.
When Captain Arthur Phillip first explored the Hawkesbury River, he
observed indigenous women carving oyster shells into fish hooks, the
first glimpse of the industry that would prove to be the foundation of
New South Wales. The oysters of the Hawkesbury provided the growing
settlement with food, building materials, valuable export material and –
less importantly at the time – pearls.
The first white settlers of Australia were not partial to local game meat,
so rock oysters became a popular dish, while the shells were ground
down to make limestone, a principal building material in the growing
town. During the 19th century, mother-of-pearl from the shells was
NSW’s first international trade, exported to make items like buttons,
chess pieces and cutlery handles.
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As Australian settlement expanded, the lure of pearls became
stronger. The Japanese, who held the intellectual property for
culturing pearls, discovered that Western Australia would be a good
location for pearl farms. Living remotely at Kuri Bay on the northern
coast, the Japanese technicians managed to keep the technique of
culturing pearls a tightly held secret from the rest of the world.
The oyster and mother-of-pearl industry became so valuable to NSW,
that the state was exempt from the White Australia policy, in order
to maintain the necessary labour; and when Mikimoto of Japan
famously developed the first cultured pearl, the practice of culturing
pearls was banned in Australia to protect the established trade.
While diversity is the cornerstone of the oyster industry, innovation
and tenacity personify the pearling industry.
Yet, one man was determined to uncover the
secret. Dean Brown – grandfather of James
Brown – was fascinated by pearling, though
he had never managed to gain a foothold in
the tight-knit industry. He owned a lugger
and when he started shipping supplies to the
isolated Japanese pearling community at Kuri
Bay, with every visit, he did his best to befriend
the technicians while observingeverything he
could about their work.
Once he had a general idea how the Japanese
were culturing pearls, he enlisted his son
Lyndon to put the ideas into practice. Lyndon
Brown did not have much choice – Dean
left him stranded on a remote beach with a
22
jewellery world - October 2020

hundred shells and several
Indigenous assistants and
within a few months Lyndon
and his team thought they
might have discovered the
winning formula.
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It took a year to confirm
that they were on the right
track, when they pulled up a
few sample oysters and saw
that pearls were starting to
form – the first cultured pearls
that were not created by the
Japanese. Dean and his sons
subsequently founded their
business Cygnet Bay Pearls,
which has now expanded into
Pearls of Australia.
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Besides wanting to help consumers understand how to assess the
quality of pearls, James also wants to call attention to the positive
environmental impact of the pearl industry.
Oysters are filter-feeders, straining organic material from the
surrounding waters – if you place an oyster into a three-litre jar of
cloudy water, within one hour the water will be clear. This makes oyster
farming the only industry which is “green-plus” from beginning to
end – while other gemstone industries have a negative impact on the
environment, the oyster industry enhances the environment.
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By Stefan Juengling
Showcase Jewellers
UNCOMMONLY BEAUTIFUL
WEDDING JEWELS
The white gold solitaire engagement ring for women and the simple white/yellow gold or
titanium/tungsten wedding band for men have long been seen as the ubiquitous staples of the
wedding jewellery industry. But tastes are evolving, the wheel is turning from white back to yellow
gold, coloured stones are replacing diamonds, and vintage styles may be having a renaissance.
Here, we look at the atypical styles and trends making waves in the Australian engagement and
wedding jewellery market with input from five players in the industry.
What couples bought in the 2010s
Our five contributors had
mixed opinions regarding
how they perceived the
trends in wedding rings over
the past decade. Sydneybased
founder/jeweller Zoe
Pook of her eponymous
jewellery brand said she
Worth & Douglas
has noticed brides choosing
coloured gemstones and a move away from the traditional white
diamond solitaire.
“Salt and pepper diamonds are very popular along with geometric cut
gemstones and Australian gemstones (in particular parti sapphires),”
she said.
“For men, more texture, more creativity in their bands.”
Along a similar vein, owner of Gold
Coast jewellery store My Jewellery Shop
Catherine Pevy-Trewartha believed men
and women are moving away from the
traditional styles.
“I have found men are moving away from
the standard polished metals and are
moving towards rose gold and alternative
metals with satin and matt finishes,” she said.
Catherine also found women have moved away
from traditional haloes in preference for more
fancy shapes such as oval, radiant and pear.
“The halo styles have transitioned into crowns with fancier accent
stones such as baguette or marquise.”
Worth & Douglas
In contrast, founder of The Online Jewellery Company Steven Sher
observed that women’s wedding ring designs have primarily remained
traditional, with brides-to-be opting for plain wedders with or without
diamonds, and with finer bands between 1.6 and 2.0mm.
“There has also been a fringe element of those wanting
unusual stones, marquee, baguettes and a mix of both
with some brilliant cuts,” he said.
Zoe Pook
As for the men, Steven hasn’t
noticed much of a change in
My Jewellery Shop
24
jewellery world - October 2020

gents wedding
ring designs,
still seeing
a very basic
plain, halfround,
ellipse
or flat profile
with a polish
or satin finish.
Showcase
Jewellers
Buying Group
is Australasia's
premier
buying and
Online Jewellery Company
marketing
group, representing over 250 independent
jewellery stores across Australia and New
Zealand. Director Carson Webb has noticed a
preference for fine bands for women’s rings
along with larger single stones. As for stones,
Carson notes that fancy shapes such as ovals,
and classic solitaires continue to be the main
sellers.
Director Chris Worth from leading Australasian
wedding ring manufacturer Worth & Douglas
has noticed a trend for bespoke pieces over
mass-produced.
“More couples (are) looking to find something
truly special that reflects their tastes and
suits their own styles, so we’re seeing a lot of
unique, custom CAD designs come through,”
he said.
Showcase Jewellers
The return of yellow gold
My Jewellery Shop
The white gold solitaire diamond ring has
remained among the most popular design for
engagement rings for what seems like an age,
so it was enlightening to learn from some of
our contributors that the
wheel is slowly beginning
to turn back to yellow.
Carson said that while
everyone
thinks white
gold is the
most popular, in
Australia and New
Worth & Douglas
Zealand, yellow gold (or a combination of) is
still the best seller.
“The metro areas are more driven with white
gold and regional areas are more yellow gold,”
he said.
“In fact, out of our top selling diamond rings,
7 of the top 10 (by quantity sold) are still
yellow gold.”
Chris and Steven both shared the view that
while white gold has remained popular,
there’s been a trend back
to yellow along with a
trend toward platinum.
Chris said the increased
demand for platinum is
due to its comparable price
to 18ct white gold along
with the added benefits
platinum has to offer
(durability, patina, etc.).
For Catherine and Zoe,
they have both seen a
move away from white
gold towards colour,
both in metal and stones.
More couples (are) looking to
find something truly special
that reflects their tastes and
suits their own styles, so we’re
seeing a lot of unique, custom
CAD designs come through.
Catherine said she has seen a shift towards
engagement rings in yellow gold and rose gold
with a combination of blues and greens with
diamonds. Zoe stated that white gold is still on
top, but rose and yellow are now both close
contenders.
Wedding jewels of moral provenance
A September article from JCK Online discussed
a recent trend among engagement ring
shoppers for the sustainable. In it, the writer
Brittany Siminitz described how “sustainability
with respect to products’ impacts on both
the environment and on the social welfare
of our world’s population has been a huge
concern among engagement ring shoppers”,
and that it would only
grow in importance
in the future.
When questioned
about whether an
engagement or
wedding ring and their
gems’ sustainability
was important to
our contributors’
customers and clients,
the response was Online Jewellery Company
understandably mixed.
Catherine said that the shopping environment is
changing and she found that clients are looking
at the “bigger picture”.
“Shoppers are now talking more about
their concerns of the world issues such as
sustainability and the social impacts of how their
jewellery is sourced and even worn,” she said.
October 2020 25

My Jewellery Shop
“They are doing more research and discussing
with us in-store about how they can purchase
or remodel in a way that is a positive impact
instead of looking at jewellery ‘skin deep’.”
Zoe Pook Jewellery exclusively uses gold from
either Fairtrade Gold sources or recycled
gold, and Zoe said the growth in the business
is in being able to attract more discerning
consumer who knows the questions to ask and
wants a kinder, more sustainable product.
For Carson, while he believes jewellery
sustainability is critically
important and will
become a larger
concern in the future,
he does not believe it
is a primary concern
when the Australian
consumer is buying
jewellery, at least not
yet. However, as a
member owned group,
Showcase Jewellers
Zoe Pook
would support a full diamond story.
“This meant we could educate the consumer
on what was important to them: origin,
performance, price or lab-created were some
of our options and has been very successful,”
he said.
“I believe the entire “sustainability”
conversation needs to be something that is
developed and discussed within each store
accordingly and its importance mainly because
depending on which side you need to stand on
Showcase Jewellers
the sustainability discussion, eg: sustainability
of the land and resources used for mining or
sustainability of the millions of human lives it
supports.”
At The Online Jewellery Company, Steven
said that while sustainability is spoken about
occasionally, it is usually price and quality that
motivates the end purchase.
A love for the varied and the
vintage
Following on from JCK Online’s sustainability
finding, Brittany also wrote that the desire
for sustainable wedding jewellery has led
to a growth in
varied wedding
jewellery trends:
where a coloured
gemstone takes
centre stone rather
than a diamond,
lab-grown
diamond and
gemstone rings;
recycled gems
and sometimes
the absence of
Showcase Jewellers
gemstones altogether. When probed on this
Zoe said she felt that to some customers,
the classic diamond represents an old school
disdain for ethical practices.
“Lab grown diamonds are certainly an option
for some clients and we have made a fair few
of these in the last year or so,” she said.
As for vintage, Zoe said she gets requests for
millgrain, engraving and filigree.
“Some clients like to merge two styles, vintage
and organic for example – we have a client at
the moment having millgrain around a bezel
setting with a rose cut, oval white diamond in
a textured band – and it looks great!”
Catherine has also noticed customers bucking
the trend by selecting lab-grown diamonds
and selecting coloured stones to adorn their
rings.
“We have also seen a huge increase in couples
desiring coloured stones for their engagement
rings particularly London Blue Topaz and
assorted colours of sapphires,” she said.
My Jewellery
Shop also has
more clients,
particularly
the younger generation,
Zoe Pook
seeking to create a vintage-inspired
engagement or dress ring. Catherine said
vintage designs allow clients more freedom to
add their own unique touch.
“With your more modern styles i.e. solitaire
or modern halo design, there is only so much
room for movement in the design but with
a vintage style, there is a lot more ways to
incorporate the wearer’s personality into the
ring,” she said.
Chris said that Worth & Douglas has also
experienced increased demand for coloured
gemstones in wedding/engagement rings,
in particular morganite, black diamond, and
unusual colours like onyx. However, while
Worth & Douglas offers vintage designs and
saw an increase in demand several years
ago, they have not been popular with their
customers lately.
Carson said that coloured stones are more
of an option now than a centre stone for
engagement rings and reported that Showcase
Jewellers’ coloured rings are 23 per cent up
from 2019; a substantial increase that’s been
rising for five years now.
My Jewellery Shop
“Coloured rings alone now make up over 5%
of the total sales, so they certainly deserve the
attention and focus,” he said.
Carson also reported that a number of
Showcase stores are engaged in the vintage/
art deco area, and said it’s a real advantage for
the independent that goes online.
“Rather than all the normal noise of fighting
prices constantly, having an amazing selection
of antique and art-deco jewellery is a real
point of difference,” he said.
26
jewellery world - October 2020

By Cheryl D. Harty
Company Profile:
INFINITY RINGS
Infinity Rings commenced business in 2004, the vision of managing director Ilhan Demirel, who
comes from a family of jewellers, both retailing and manufacturing. Working closely with his
father, he realised quickly that this would be the industry he would work in.
“I worked in jewellery retail for several
years and really developed a passion for the
industry. I also have a strong interest in design
and technology, which, paired with my passion
for jewellery, has allowed me to push myself
and continuously improve Infinity Rings,” he
said.
While working in retail, Mr Demirel observed
the male jewellery market that existed at
the time and identified a niche for premium,
contemporary rings.
“I could see a gap in the market for unique
and stylish men’s rings - at the time, they
felt like an add-on rather than a standalone
purchase. Having grown up in Europe where
men’s fashion and jewellery was valued, I was
inspired to take a leap of faith and start Infinity
Rings in 2004 to bring a range of classic and
modern men’s rings to the market.
“We believe at Infinity that a man’s
commitment ring should be both a sign
of dedication and an expression of their
individual style. Infinity Rings has gone from
strength to strength over the past 16 years,
growing in both facilities and staff to keep up
with demand,” he said.
Mr Demirel lives by the ethos that if you’re
going to do something, do it well. He and
his team keep their eyes on global trends,
ensuring the firm’s designs are in line with
what the market demands. “We believe that
listening to our stockists and our customers
is key to the success of Infinity Rings, and use
this to guide our business.”
The Infinity Rings manufacturing facility is
one of the most technologically advanced
worldwide.
“Our team of jewellers hand finish every ring
to the highest standard. In sourcing materials
and manufacturing each ring, my team and I
are involved in and oversee all decisions. Our
ethically sourced metals and stones have been
selected with impacts on global communities
and the environment carefully considered.
“Down to the finest details, our unique
packaging and store displays are of the highest
quality, meeting the ever-changing demands
of our stockists and customers. Our team
28
jewellery world - October 2020

DesignStudio
customise - visualise - personalise
A revolutionary way to design and customise rings.
Infinity Rings DesignStudio allows you to customise our designs’ metal combinations,
apply different finishes, adjust the dimensions, add different stones and
include engraving for a personal touch. Designs come to life on the screen
as they can be created and viewed from any angle on any device.
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of artisans are committed to delivering only
the best quality. Our Infinite Satisfaction
Guarantee provides retailers and customers
with confidence in our brand and more
reasons to purchase an Infinity Ring,” Mr
Demirel said.
Men today are demanding more innovative
styles and a wider variety of metals to
complement their personal sense of style, such
as darker metals and bolder choices in adding
stones to their rings, he pointed out.
“This inspired us to explore and experiment
with new metals and introduce tantalum to the
market in 2019. Named after Greek mythology
figure, Tantalus, this hard blue-gray, lustrous,
metal is highly corrosion resistant. Dark and
dramatic yet durable and hypoallergenic, these
rings have attracted really great interest from
our customers so far.
“We also know that customers are increasingly
demanding customisation to make their rings
truly unique and personal. We listened to our
stockists who told us they wanted a simple
way to work with customers to personalise
rings in an increasingly competitive market and
developed the Infinity Rings Design Studio in
response.”
Over the last two years, Infinity Rings have
been developing this application to meet
both retailers and customers’ needs, giving
customers the opportunity to transform the
company’s designs into a truly customised
piece. At each stage of the design process
their selection is visualised while they create
a truly unique ring that they themselves have
designed, making their commitment even
more special.
‘’My team and I are very excited to bring the
Infinity Rings Design Studio to the market in
2020. We have developed this world-class,
industry-leading ring design application from
the ground up over the last two years so that
Infinity Rings can enable our resellers to design
and customise rings with their clients. It brings
to life millions of possibilities from our Infinity
range and gives customers a sense of complete
personalisation,” Mr Demirel said
Being web-based, the Infinity Rings Design
Studio is simple and intuitive to use, giving
customers the tools to create rings from
different metal and colour options and
multiple surface finishes. It also allows them
to add different stone types and see the ring in
different width and thickness options.
“The most exciting feature is that this is
visualised in real time as changes are made,
all in 3D and 360 degree view that can be
easily navigated. In our experience, when
customers can visualise their design, they build
a special connection with it. As a finishing
touch, designs can be personalised with laser
engraving, which will be shown on the design
in the different font options on the screen,” Mr
Demirel explained.
The Infinity Rings Design Studio supports
retailers by providing real time pricing based
on the selections made by the customer.
This gives the retailer a seamless experience
without the need to call or prepare cost
estimates, making it quick to build rapport
and lock in a sale. Another advantage of this
is that customers can easily create a ring to fit
into their budget. Combined with an instant
ordering button, the experience is completely
streamlined for the retailer and the customer.
“In today’s market with so many different
designs, metal options and high demand
for customisations, the Infinity Rings Design
Studio gives retailers the opportunity to offer
customers the ability to view more designs
than ever before to create and customise
their dream ring with infinite options at their
fingertips.”
Infinity Rings’ aim for the future is to be the
number one wedding ring destination and Mr
Demirel and his team work hard with stockists
to exceed their expectations on every aspect
of the supply chain.
“We’re looking forward to seeing how the
Infinity Ring Design Studio transforms the
in-store experience and further expands our
product range for our current and future
stockists,” he said.
30
jewellery world - October 2020

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very exclusive one-off designs, custom ”Branded” for your exclusive library.
As the Australasia representative for Uni- Design, I would be happy to discuss how our
multifaceted factory could assist in expanding and streamlining your customer base.

VIRTUAL FAIR
A turning point for the industry
The announcement of a new Virtual Fair represents the moment when the jewellery
industry shakes off both the gloom of the pandemic and the traditions of the past and
steps eagerly forward onto a bold, ambitious and inclusive digital platform that will
unite wholesalers and retailers for the upcoming selling season.
One of the strengths of our industry is
its sense of community, the willingness
of the people within it to work
together and find solutions. Both here and
across the ditch, we have strong associations
with engaged memberships, and we have
strong buying groups. We also have very
active community groups across various social
networks.
So it makes sense, in a time of great upheaval,
pandemic and financial uncertainty, that
representatives from all these positions
would come together to devise a way to help
everyone in the industry thrive this selling
season.
The Jewellery Industry Virtual Fair, announced
in September, brings new opportunities to
connect and trade to the industry. Going live,
online from20-21 October, the Virtual Fair
will replicate a physical event allowing people
to meet, network and do business in the
same way as a physical fair - and with fewer
limitations.
Announced after significant consultation with
the industry, Laura Moore of Moore Events,
and Brett Low and Ewen Ryley from Young
Jewellers Group, invested and developed the
capability to deliver a comprehensive easy-touse
online event platform that helps exhibitors
and buyers connect.
With associations onboard and positive
support from key buying groups, organisers
have quickly moved to make this a reality.
The event will operate over two full days
online, giving people from all over Australia
and New Zealand the opportunity to attend
from the comfort of their own homes or places
of business. The risks and expenses of travel
for both exhibitors and guests are eliminated
entirely and convenience is greatly enhanced
- guests will be able to view and connect with
the companies they want to connect with
without the hassle of trudging from one end of
a convention centre to the other. And no one
spends the entire fair on their feet!
But the JIVF will be much more than a simple
digital showcase of products. A series of web
seminars from industry experts from all over
the world is scheduled and the platform will
allow suppliers and guest to speak to each
other ‘face to face’.
A speed networking area app, where guests
can be connected to businesses for a fun,
fast and furious few minutes, will create
opportunities for business and personal
relationships to grow - meet brands, meet
people, find out quickly what fits your
business, what suits your model and make
connections.
“Difficult times have made us even more
determined to work hard and help the
industry any way we can,” said Laura Moore
of Moore Events. “We saw a significant gap
in the industry where suppliers and retailers
have struggled to connect, and we wanted to
change that.”
With many big name brands and suppliers, as
well as buying groups, already signed up, the
event is looking to be a fantastic opportunity
for retailers to restock for Christmas.
Carson Webb, managing director of Showcase
Jewellers, says Showcase will be involved
to support retailers and suppliers. “We will
be offering advice as needed, benefits and
resources of our business and those of our
preferred suppliers.It will also be a platform
where retailers can ask questions of our group
and maybe better understand why our group
structure is different and how it might be a
perfect fit for any new jewellery retailer out
there.”
“I’m delighted and proud to support this
event,” he added saying it was important for
the industry to stay positive and “walk the talk
of the glass half full attitude.”
Buying group Leading Edge Jewellery is just as
keen to attend the virtual fair. “We see it as a
chance to network with others in the industry
and a chance to engage with independent
retailers who may be wanting to know more
about what Leading Edge Jewellery has to
offer,” said Charlie Davey of Leading Edge.
“Our involvement is important to support the
industry and those who are trying to make a
difference. We will also be encouraging our
members to come along too. Sadly, there’ll
be no face to face cups of coffee, but virtual
coffee looks as good!
“We are very inspired by this new event,” he
added. “It’s a fresh approach and no one else
is thinking outside the box like this to support
the industry.”
Jo Tory of Najo, was equally enthusiastic about
the event.“I am very excited about this virtual
fair, and I think it will be a real turning point
in the industry,” she said. “Congratulations on
such a splendidly thought through and forward
thinking event.”
Guests can register via the Virtual Fair’s
website. Interested suppliers are also invited
to register.
Register at www.jewelleryindustryfair.com
32
jewellery world - October 2020

Australasia’s
FIRST AND ONLY
VIRTUAL
Industry Fair
CONNECT | BUY | NETWORK | EXPERIENCE | UNITE
Join us for the first and only Australasian VIRTUAL Jewellery Industry Fair where
the industry comes together to reconnect and prepare for Christmas.
October 20th and 21st 2020
FREE Buyer Registration
www.JewelleryIndustryFair.com
www.JewelleryIndustryFair.com

Over the past 125 years, Swarovski has always lived by the values of their
founder Daniel Swarovski, and this includes offering a customer experience
equal to the brilliance of their stones. The Swarovski Created Diamond
program is your guarantee of this same spirit, trust, and quality.
Introducing the Swarovski Created Diamonds Retail Program
Showcase Jewellers introduces the Swarovski Created Diamonds Retail Program which allows you to
present this product offering in an exclusive way, while at the same time providing education to the
end consumer as well as giving them a choice of beautifully crafted Swarovski Created Diamonds.
Materials and resources to help you promote, educate and sell Swarovski Created Diamonds:
Laser engraving on 0.10ct and larger, visible under 20x magnification
Assortment six classic diamond shapes and 16 astonishing fancy colours
Pioneering Technology CVD (chemical vapor deposition) growing technology
Lab Report 0.70ct and larger are accompanied by a lab report from IGI
Quality Certificate and Packaging the consumers guarantee of authenticity
Presentation Tray professionally present selected Swarovski Created Diamonds to your client
100 Percent Diamonds “Lab-created diamonds are cultivated in a laboratory, but their quality, strength,
optical finish, and overall physical and chemical properties are absolutely identical to those of mined
diamonds, which grow over millions of years beneath the earth.
Swarovski Created Diamonds have all the characteristics of mined diamonds.“
IGI - International Gemological Institute, 2016
Swarovski Created Diamonds is exclusive to the Showcase Jewellers Group.
For more information on how to become a member so you can offer this unparalleled Lab Created Diamonds brand to
your clients and to learn about other exclusive benefits of being a Showcase Jewellers Member contact us via
Email: enquiries@jimaco.com | Phone: (02) 8566 1800 | Visit: www.showcasejewellers.com.au

Remarkably beautiful and naturally captivating,
Dreamtime Australian Diamonds originate from the world
renowned Argyle Diamond Mine, located in a remote corner
of Northwest Australia. Every Dreamtime Diamond is unique and
resonates with the Australian landscape, its stories and legends.
Every Diamond is tracked so you can be assured your Dreamtime
jewellery contains Australian Diamonds that are natural and
untreated. To learn more and view the collection visit
www.dreamtimediamonds.com
DIAMOND COLLECTION
Dreamtime Australian Diamonds is exclusive to and owned by the Showcase Jewellers Group.
For more information on how to become a member so you can offer this fantastic brand to your clients
and to learn about other exclusive benefits of being a Showcase Jewellers Member contact us via
Email: enquiries@jimaco.com | Phone: (02) 8566 1800 | Visit: www.showcasejewellers.com.au

THE FIRST INTERNATIONALLY RECOGNISED
DIAMOND-GRADING STANDARD
CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has described as ground-breaking the publication
by the International Standards Organisation of ISO 24016, the first-ever standard approved
by the body that specifies the terminology, classification and the methods to be used for the
grading and description of single unmounted polished diamonds.
“This is a historic moment for our industry,”
said CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri, “for it
is the first time that a strictly defined diamond
grading system has been ratified by the world’s
leading standards body, formally recognising
principles and terminology that to date have
not been approved by any impartial and
international authority. ISO 24016 essentially
parallels the CIBJO Diamond Blue Book,
meaning that our widely-accepted standard is
now effectively validated by ISO.”
ISO 24016 applies to natural, unmounted,
polished diamonds of more than 0.25 carats.
It is a comprehensive technical document, 55
pages in length, providing detailed information
with tables and figures. It expressly does not
apply to fancy coloured diamonds, synthetic
(laboratory-grown) diamonds, diamonds
treated by methods other than laser drilling,
nor to assembled stones.
“The aim of a standard for grading unmounted
polished diamonds is to set rules for
determining with maximum precision and
accuracy the mass, colour, clarity and cut of
individual polished diamonds,” ISO 24016
notes in its introduction. “On one hand, based
on these four criteria –also known as ‘the 4Cs’
– the diamond trade evaluates the value of
diamonds. On the other hand, some diamond
grading reports may be issued based on
different standards by different laboratories,
potentially leading to different results for
the same individual diamond. This situation
damages the reputation of the whole diamond
trade. Hence, the need for a unique ISO
standard for grading polished diamonds.”
It is the second standard issued by the
International Standards Organisation dealing
specifically with diamonds. ISO 18323,
which was released in 2015, defined specific
nomenclature for natural diamonds, synthetic
diamonds and diamond simulants. It was
reconfirmed last week after a five-year
systematic review process.
Headquartered in Geneva, ISO is an
independent, non-governmental international
organisation, to which are affiliated 165
national standards bodies. It operates 333
Technical Committees bringing together
experts who share knowledge and develop
voluntary, consensus-based, market-relevant
international standards that support
innovation and provide solutions to global
challenges. To date, more than 23,000 ISO
standards have been issued. Issues in ISO
related to jewellery and precious metals are
handled by Technical Committee 174, chaired
by Dr. Jonathan Jodry, which has participants
and observers from 40 countries and is
responsible for more than 25 international
standards.
The process of developing the new standard
took about two years to complete, and was
managed thanks to the dedication of a team
of internationally renowned diamond experts
from 10 different countries.
“This a massive achievement for the diamond
industry, and it was achieved through
hundreds of hours of hard work, and a
painstaking international vetting process,” said
Udi Sheintal, President of CIBJO’s Diamond
Commission. “Now, for the first time, we
can say without equivocation that a entire
gemstone category, namely diamonds, has
been fully addressed by the International
Standards Organisation. Furthermore, with
both standards being so closely associated
with the CIBJO Diamond Blue Book, we
can take great pride in our processes and
professionalism.”
“There is no doubt in my mind that these two
international ISO standards, together with
the CIBJO Diamond Blue Book, will help boost
consumer confidence,” Mr. Sheintal said.
“The timing is particularly relevant, especially
now when clear distinctions must be made
between laboratory-grown diamonds and
natural diamonds.
The new ISO 24016 standard can be purchased
and downloaded from the ISO website at:
https://www.iso.org/standard/79795.html
36
jewellery world - October 2020

02 - 92690991
Time to buy Australian-made
Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977
Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au
Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au
6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.
Melbourne 3000 Victoria
Millennium Chain
Finished Top 5 in the category of
Best Selling Gold Jewellery Suppliers in
Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.
millennium_chain

TRADITION
NEVER GOES OUT
OF STYLE
TAG HEUER CARRERA
remodelled for refinement
The new Tag Heuer Carrera chronograph models strike
a perfect balance between advanced watchmaking
technology and unprecedented refinement at the
cutting edge of horological innovation.
To mark the brand’s 160th anniversary this year, the TAG Heuer Carrera
collection welcomes yet another addition – this time, the iconic
chronograph features an elegant design reminiscent of historic models
with a touch of modern flair. These four chronographs have a refined
and modern look inspired by the pure style that first made the TAG
Heuer Carrera iconic.
The sophistication of this reinterpreted
TAG Heuer Carrera comes from its
stainless-steel bezel, which has been
designed without a tachymeter scale
to keep the overall aesthetics in line
with the unforgettable silver-dial
Heuer Carrera that was originally
launched in 1963.
The 42mm timepiece maintains its chronograph functionality with two
push buttons and subdials.
Available in opaline black or sunray brushed blue, anthracite and silver,
the dial features “azurage” subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock and a running
small-second counter at 6 o’clock above a discreet date window. The
beating heart of this watch is the brand’s proprietary movement, the
Calibre Heuer 02.
FOLLOW US
TOLL FREE 1800 GERRIM
PO Box 3168 Yeronga
Queensland 4104
sales@gerrim.com
www.gerrim.com
The models with black and blue
dials are presented on a streamlined
H-shaped stainless-steel bracelet.
The bicoloured version with a silvercoloured
dial and rose-gold-plated
hands and the model with a deep
anthracite dial are paired with a
handsome brown alligator leather
strap. The screw-down sapphire
caseback provides a fascinating view of the innovative movement inside,
made even more exclusive by its rose-gold-coloured oscillating mass.
Born on the racetrack yet equally at home at a formal evening event,
the new TAG Heuer Carrera timepieces exude sheer elegance and make
a striking statement in any situation.

ULYSSE NARDIN
Dual Time
Ulysse Nardin have released three new
editions of their Dual Time models
- all with the striking case design
incorporating the “X” element from
the 2019 Skeleton X models.
As on previous models, the dial features a
large date in a double window at 2 o’clock,
a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and
an indicator for the home time (in 24-hour
format) in a round window at 9 o’clock. The
Dual Time uses a “shape-within-shape-withinshape”
architecture: a large “X,” formed by the
hour indices, framing a rectangle, all framed
inside the circle of the bezel.
The 42-mm case of the new Dual Time is in
either stainless steel or rose gold; the dials and their
matching bezels are in either black (in the steel case) or blue (in both steel
and gold). On the side of the case are the “+” and “-” pushers that adjust
the hour hand forward or backward to quickly change the local time when
the wearer is traveling.
The cases are water-resistant to 50 meters and integrated seamlessly via
the triple lugs into a strap of either a rubber (on the rose-gold model) or
alligator leather (on the black steel and blue steel models)

KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE
How to make a Wax Carving
Some jewellery creations cannot be fabricated out of metal. This is
where wax modelling plays an important part in our industry. The
wax model can then be cast in a one-off process or it could be the
beginning of multiple copies of that exact design. Designing in wax
opens a whole new almost limitless, world of design possibilities
Once you master working in wax, you will find that it is a very
enjoyable creative process. Your only limit is your imagination.
1Depending on the designs you wish to
create, the tools required can be quite
basic and you will develop your personal
preference as you practice. Do not try to
use regular files - there are special wax files
that are coarse and will not clog up. You can
buy wax carving kits, but you will be amazed
at what you can achieve with just a pen knife
or spatula.
Waxes come in various colours, shapes,
hardness and malleability. We will use the
15mm thick blue wax for this project as it
is good for general carving work. For more
detailed or fragile carvings, the green wax
would be preferable.
2The first wax carving challenge I
give to apprentices is ‘The Wax
Carved Knot.’ It looks easy, but it can
literally tie your brain up in knots.
We naturally approach modelling two
dimensionally and try to replicate what is
in front of your eyes. This project requires
more planning and encourages you to think
more three dimensionally.
Find a piece of thick string (Wick string
works well) and tie a loose knot.
3
Draw a rough outline onto the wax. It
will look a little like a dickie bow tie.
Cut the shape out using a wax
cutting saw blade. This special blade
is twisted to cut in any direction and will
help with the initial shaping. Do not try to
add any detail at this stage, just remove
general chunks of wax.
4
Once you have finished cutting
the wax, use a wax file to continue
shaping and filing in the knot detail.
Again, do not try to finalise any of the shape
just yet. Keep turning the wax and the
string together to study the form. You will
probably begin to realise by now that it is
harder than it first appears.
5It is advised that you hold the string
knot in your third hand device and
mark out the form that you directly
see, rather than trying to mark out
and cut the knot pattern in one go.
Put some general light cuts in, then turn
the string slightly to expose the next
elevation.
6
By the third turn your knot cuts will
hopefully link up and you will see that
the pattern works. If not, correct your
carving, or start again. Wax is cheap
and the experience is good for you.
If you have wax burs you can cut in where
your file won’t fit. At this stage you should
see the knot shape forming.
42
jewellery world - October 2020

7
If you have removed wax
unintentionally you can simply heat
up a knife or flat spatula and deposit
liquid wax where desired. This needs
to be done quickly as the wax cools and sets
fast.
You can also remove wax this way on
purpose. Apart from making corrections it is
also a very efficient method of shaping the
model. Be careful as hot wax burns.
8
Traditionally an alcohol burner is used
to heat up the carving tools but you
can also use a reducing flame from
your torch.
The hot blade will also impress deeper into
the carving adding more realistic detail. Once
the wax knot pattern twists and turns to form
the correct shape, run the hot blade around
the crease to iron out any lumps and make it
look more distinctive.
9
Study the string knot closely. You may
need to trim the wax down in places
to remove lumps or achieve a consistent
thickness.
You can now add the finer detail.
Carefully flick the tip of a flame over the
model to soften and glaze the surface.
Holding it in your fingers will ensure that you
are extra cautious not to overheat it.
10
A final scrape over the surface
may be required.
The wax model is very fragile at
this stage, so handle it with care. If a section
should break off, it is not a disaster. Set up
the model in your third hand. Heat up the
blade and touch both broken ends at the
same time, then quickly fuse them together.
You can finish by dripping melted wax around
the joint.
11If you are feeling adventurous you
Use the point of a carving tool to
scratch in the string surface detail.
can add a special finishing touch by fraying
the string ends. This will add an artistic flare
to the model when you copy the effect as
well as give you move texturing experience.
12
Turn your model and the string
around at the same time to
confirm that the knot shape
works. Do not be disappointed if
you have to start again. Most apprentices will
repeat this project before they hand it in for
assessment.
This test will prepare you for more
challenging, intricate and interesting designs,
and give you an appreciation for the art of
Wax Carving.
Jewellery Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service including the
popular Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course helping to train the next generation of jewellers.
Peter Keep is a
master jeweller
and teacher. He
offers structured
online courses
that have helped
thousands of
students around
the world improve
their skills.
Check out the courses and options.
www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au
The video tutorial for this lesson can be found in the
Silver level (Apprentice courses) and includes several wax carving videos.
https://www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au/courses/wax-carving
October 2020 43

18ct Rose Gold &
Sterling Silver
Reg. ws $666
NOW $533
Retail $1,998
Profit $1,465
Searay
Pty Ltd
www.searay.net.au - info@searay.net.au - (03) 9095 6070

Thriving in
challenging times
Helping retailers through turbulent times
and beyond is the aim for new partnership
between Glenyville Jewellery and 90
Degrees Global - an exclusive and industry
specific mastermind program designed to
help retailers grow and thrive.
The Business Growth Mastermind Program is an on-going program
featuring entrepreneurs and masterminds discussing relevant and
specific topics designed to help you succeed and thrive in your
business again. In addition to this, the program also features a
personalised strategy session with a lead business expert who will
work together with you on your business.
The program is comprehensive, personalised and - of courseindustry
specific and designed to provide retailers with tools that
can be activated immediately to make businesses thrive.
A series of twelve 90 minute webinars - one per month - are led
by international experts with the added benefit of participating
with other business owners in your field. One on one strategy
sessions with your hand-picked expert will help you identify your
opportunities and challenges and develop strategies for the best
way forward. There are also monthly Mastermind Sessions and
Thrive Thursday, live interviews that are powerful, fun, inspiring
and informative and not to be missed.
The program features big names from the Australian and New
Zealand business and financial realms - Ryll Burgin-Doyle, Craig
Doyle, Kylie Bartlet, Deborah Harris and Jeremy Harris being just a
few.
Covering technology and e-commerce, digital strategy, branding,
human resources, marketing and much more, the program
will leave you with clarity, greater certainty and key plans and
actionable strategies you can use right now.
VIRTUAL TRADE FAIR SPECIAL
FREE
ARGYLE
DIAMOND
OR
10%
OFF
First 40 callers only!
CALL NOW
1800 777 413
VALID ON ALL PRODUCTS
*T&C’s apply. Valid for one order only.
www.gvjewellery.com/bgmp
Paolo Franceschini 0417 159 141
paolo@gvjewellery.com
WWW.BOLTONGEMS.COM.AU

NEW PRODUCTS
Techspan Group | Elma Germany’s Authorised partners
Australia 1-800 148 791 | New Zealand 0800 603 603
Elma Sound Box – Noise Protection Enclosures
Do you have a problem with noise from your ultrasonic cleaner?
Depending on its frequency, ultrasound activity can generate an array
of different noise levels within the cleaning liquid. Elma Germany
have developed noise protection boxes for a number of ultrasonic
cleaner device sizes, which can significantly reduce the noise level
if the cleaning device is “too noisy” at its site. There are three sizes
available to suit a good number of the Elma cleaner models.
www.elma-ultrasonic.com.au
sales@techspanonline.com | www.techspanonline.com
Bolton Gems | 1800 777 413
Turn your dream ring into reality with our NEW Custom CAD
jewellery design service. Three simple steps. Step 1: Choose your
stone; Step 2: Supply us with a picture, drawing or description
and we will supply a quote within 45mins; Step 3: Sit back and
relax, we will take care of the rest.
www.boltongems.com.au
Bolton Gems | 1800 777 413
Claw set emerald cut yellow sapphire ring
featuring baguette shoulder diamonds set
in 18ct white gold with a yellow gold band.
www.boltongems.com.au
Kagi
The Midnight Opera collection features
slate blue crystals alongside the Stella
locket and ear charms - all inspired by
New Zealand’s night sky.
Kagi.net
Ikecho | +61 2 9266 0636
9ct yellow gold white Keshi Freshwater
Pearl 12-13mm shepherd hook
earrings. Product code: IP107-9YK
www.ikecho.com.au
46
jewellery world - October 2020

NEW PRODUCTS
Presidium ARI - Handheld Diamond
Tester | +61 7 3434 8111
ARI is a handheld tester helping users
distinguish natural diamonds against potential
lab grown diamonds such as CVD / HPHT
diamonds, and moissanites (includes the new
low conductivity moissanite). In addition, it
is capable of testing on both loose stones
and all kinds of jewellery. These include
open/closed back rings, necklaces, bracelets,
earrings, etc.
Precision Tools and Technology
precisiontt.com.au
West End Collection |
+61 3 9553 3777
Maserati Successo 45mm Gold Watch
Maserati watches tell a story about
the past and future, about a brand
that became an icon of elegance,
uniqueness and power. West
End Collection is extending the
incredibly popular Maserati watch
range this year with the Gentleman's
Accessories Collection of Maserati
pens, bracelets and cufflinks.
www.westendcollection.com.au
R&D Italian Jewellery | +61 2 9212 2011
Mix and match shanks and settings. Over 800
combinations from these magnetic samples.
www.rdjewellery.com.au
Techspan Group | Elma Germany’s Authorised partners
Australia 1-800 148 791 | New Zealand 0800 603 603
Elma-Dry TD series – for use with ultrasonic cleaners
Safe and efficient drying of parts with warm and cold air – Elmadry TD
drying units are available in 3 sizes (30, 120 and 300) and designed
for use in production, workshop and service. After ultrasonic
cleaning, the parts are first rinsed in the basket with municipal water
and then conveniently placed in the Elmadry TD drying unit.
Fitted with cold and hot air
blower (70 °C), sensitive parts
can also be dried gently. In
cold air operation, the parts
to be dried can also be cooled
quickly. The hot air function
is activated while the cover is
on. The cover has ventilation
slots, ensuring that maximum
air turbulence is produced and the moist air is conducted to the
outside. At the same time, the cover reduces energy consumption.
www.elma-ultrasonic.com.au
sales@techspanonline.com | www.techspanonline.com
Gem-Zoom U - Universal Phone
Camera Lense 10x LED | +61 7 3434 8111
The Gem-Zoom U, with its 10X Macro Lens and 12 ultra-brite
White LED lights, is the ultimate macro photography tool for
gemstones, diamond, coins, watches, and jewelry. Gem-Zoom
U was designed to be compatible with all smart phones; both
Android and iPhone. Simply attach the
lightweight tools/lens to your smart
phone and use the adjustment
button to control the 12 LED light
bank containing cool white 5500k
light that will enhance your image
instantly! Let the stylish Gem-
Zoom U camera aAttachment
with 10X Macro Lens become
your solution for all your macro
photo and video needs.
Precision Tools and Technology
precisiontt.com.au
October 2020 47

NEW PRODUCTS
Zahar | +61 412 251 257
Freshwater pearls are the focus
in the Florence collection. The
designs are a fun, contemporary
take on classic pearl jewellery
of the past. Zahar’s collections
are brass based, nickel free with
stainless steel posts and are 18ct
gold plated. All styles retail for
under $99! New season products
are on online now!
info@zahar.com.au
@zahar.collection
www.zahar.com.au
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777
Georgini Lusso Silver Earrings (IE949W)
The newly released Lusso Earrings are a feature
of the Georgini Luxe Collection. Featuring 4.5ct
of CZ stones with a drop of 27mm, this statement
piece is ideal for bridal and special occasions. With
new Collections being released by Georgini every
2 months the range is contemporary and fresh all
year round, catering for seasonal influence and
celebrated dates.
www.westendcollection.com.au
Bolton Gems | 1800 777 413
Stunning GIA Certified Argyle Pink Diamonds in round brilliant cut,
pear, oval and heart cut. Contact us today as we have limited stock
and they are selling fast.
www.boltongems.com.au
Jewellery Centre | +61 7 3221 3838
Jewellery Centre’s New Constellation Pendants
Sterling silver 15mm round constellation pendants with chain.
All star signs are available.
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com
Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525
Stunning spinel set design with a touch of rose gold.
www.ellanicollections.com.au
Jeweller’s Saw Blade Organizer
and Dispenser | +61 7 3434 8111
This jeweller’s saw blade container will
hold all your jeweller’s saw blades. It has 16
compartments that are labeled with the size
of the blades, from 8/0 all the way to #8.
Precision Tools and Technology
precisiontt.com.au
48
jewellery world - October 2020

NEW PRODUCTS
Bianc | +61 412 251 257
The new Amour collection by Bianc
features aquamarine, amethyst and rose
quartz to name a few. The collection uses
soft pastel coloured gems to create a
romantic and gentle feel perfect for Spring.
New season collections are online now!
info@bianc.com.au
@bianc_jewellery
www.bianc.com.au
DesignDrawCAD | +61 409 600 765
Versatile, attentive, passionate designer,
8 years’ jewellery experience, fast
turnaround to increase your production.
Cert. III Jewellery Manufacture.
helen@designdrawcad.com.au
Devino Pearls | +61 2 9261 3555
A new production of South Sea and
Tahitian pearls has just arrived at Devino
Pearls. They include white, gold and black
pearls and round to baroque shapes.
www.devino.com
Lynette T
Intensely vivid diamond ring from the Intensely
Vivid Collection in platinum and yellow gold.
It features 7.28g of platinum and 18K yellow
gold, a GIA certified 2.00ct fancy vivid Yellow
Diamond, 0.17ct of accent yellow diamond and
0.90ct of white diamond.
Simply elegant pink diamond ring from the
Simply Elegant Collection. In white gold, it
features 2.29g of 18K white gold, a 0.12ct pink
diamond and 0.07ct of white accent diamonds.
Lynette T is a young, up and coming Australian
jewellery designer from New South Wales.
www.lynettet.com
+61 2 8065 8533
info@sovereigngems.com
Suite 5, Level 1
428 George Street
Sydney NSW 2000

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services
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Supplier to
all buying groups
Fast delivery Australia wide
THE BATTERY MAN
MILN & CO. Pty Ltd
Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834
E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au
Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.
Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.
Pins/tools. Jewellery findings. J C Hurst Bangles.
Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks
Chris O’Neill
Piecemaker
2015 YJG Bench Challenge
Hand Engraving Champion.
PO Box 112
Toronto NSW 2283
P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168
E: sales@adelaimports.com
Adela Imports offer over 180
designs of sterling silver chain,
with up to 20 lengths available
in each from stock.
Also offering a range of
uniquely designed silver
jewellery.
Nearly 40 years of trusted
service to the Watch &
Jewellery Industry.
Free call: 1800 244 354
Glues
Also specialising in quality
Handmakes, Repairs and
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Sydney CBD.
0405 689 834
Catalogue available.
www.adelaimports.com
Your one stop battery shop
& much more.
orders@thebatteryman.com.au
ADVERTISE HERE
The classifieds section is an excellent place for suppliers
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in a long-running, low cost way.
All size ads are available and may include
product photos.
Visit our website to download our
media pack for prices.
www.jewelleryworld.net.au
Relaxing...
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M: 0404 063 330 W:(02) 9211 0310
Your Diamond and Gemstone Doctor
Over 40 years repair services. Please book by appointment.
It was a dog.
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Are you Jewellery World's biggest joker?
Got a gem of a gag, a diamond of a giggle, a real shiner to share?
Send your joke to jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au - or continue to endure
the editor's thoroughly lame efforts to amuse herself during the pandemic.
50
jewellery world - October 2020

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