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Apparently this is the 36th year of the - ScholarsArchive at Oregon ...

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L J. FNRY MflOIRS -- 1883-1966<br />

Written prior to January, 1949<br />

Sources<br />

dwin Graham<br />

The Big Bottom Country, as <strong>the</strong> upper Cowlits Valley <strong>is</strong> known, began<br />

to be sbttie*t about 1885. Before <strong>the</strong>n it was an Indian hunting ground.<br />

Jim Yoke was an Indian who probably was born about 160. He said <strong>the</strong><br />

first white san he saw was Pskkwood. Jim's family was camped near th.<br />

south <strong>of</strong> Sk<strong>at</strong>e Creek, when Pmckwood, with white hair and beard, appeared<br />

like an apparition. Jim recalled running to h<strong>is</strong> moth.r in fright and<br />

h&t*ing behind her skirts. Jim's elders, though, had had more contact<br />

with <strong>the</strong> white.. Their chief, Babt<strong>is</strong>te Kiona., and svera]. tribesmen<br />

were nominally <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> C<strong>at</strong>holic faith. Th<strong>is</strong> indic<strong>at</strong>ed influence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

early m<strong>is</strong>sion arid trading post on Cowlits Prairie. The rivalry between<br />

<strong>the</strong> Cowlit and Klickit<strong>at</strong> tribes <strong>is</strong> legendary arid pertains mostly to<br />

raids for <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> abducting each o<strong>the</strong>rs women. The old trail via<br />

Poiapey Peak and. Berry P<strong>at</strong>ch to C<strong>is</strong>pus Peas has always been known as <strong>the</strong><br />

Klickit<strong>at</strong> Trail. arid probably was associ<strong>at</strong>ed in some way with those forays.<br />

Strangely enough <strong>the</strong>re <strong>is</strong> also a Iclickit<strong>at</strong> Creek flowing into White River<br />

from Cayuse Pass. It would be interesting to know why th. name was applied<br />

to a fe<strong>at</strong>ure so far d<strong>is</strong>tant.<br />

The early settlers came from widely d<strong>is</strong>tant places. Th. first,<br />

Wit, and. Herman York., were German seafarers; <strong>the</strong> Silers were from North<br />

Carolina; MacKay and Owens were Canadians; Rand].. and Huffaker were from<br />

Tennessee; and <strong>the</strong> Chiloo<strong>at</strong>s from Texas, to mention only a few. Most ware<br />

bachelors, a few re.ain.d so. In l<strong>at</strong>er <strong>year</strong>s <strong>the</strong>re was a considerabl. influx<br />

from <strong>the</strong> hill country in Kentucky and West Virginia. The Chilco<strong>at</strong>s<br />

were <strong>the</strong> first family to become establ<strong>is</strong>hed., <strong>the</strong> first to set up a gr<strong>is</strong>t<br />

sill and. <strong>the</strong>ir first winter was a hard one. Their larder contained flour<br />

and pot<strong>at</strong>oes--nothing more--not a well balanced r<strong>at</strong>ion had it not been<br />

enriched with ven<strong>is</strong>on.<br />

The best agricultural lands were taken up within a few <strong>year</strong>s after<br />

<strong>the</strong> first settlement. The community was retarded for a long time by lack<br />

<strong>of</strong> transport<strong>at</strong>ion. Livestock could be driven to market so furn<strong>is</strong>hed <strong>the</strong><br />

cash crop. Rushes were abundant in sloughs and produced high grade beef<br />

which <strong>at</strong>tracted much <strong>at</strong>tention in <strong>the</strong> Chelal<strong>is</strong> market. These rushes, however,<br />

do not renew <strong>the</strong>ir growth after being cropped so do not make continuing<br />

forage. When <strong>the</strong> railroad reached lbe, turkeys were driven th<strong>at</strong><br />

far and <strong>the</strong>n dressed for shipment. As l<strong>at</strong>e as 1910 mail was carried by<br />

pack horses due to <strong>the</strong> condition <strong>of</strong> winter roads.<br />

The Ciapus w<strong>at</strong>ershed remained a hinterland to <strong>the</strong> Cowlitz settlers<br />

for some time. The Sh..peen from around Goldend.ale grazed on <strong>the</strong> headw<strong>at</strong>ers<br />

about Mt. Adams and <strong>the</strong> Go<strong>at</strong> Rocks quite early. The Nor<strong>the</strong>rn Pacific<br />

Railway explored it as a possible route prior to constructing its present<br />

one in 1884. Council Lake, <strong>of</strong> course, <strong>is</strong> said. to be <strong>the</strong> meeting place<br />

where General. McClellan and <strong>the</strong> Indiana drew up a tre<strong>at</strong>y about 1856.<br />

Prospectors on <strong>the</strong> Mc Coy Creek were <strong>the</strong> first residents on <strong>the</strong> w<strong>at</strong>ershed.<br />

They came from White Salmon and had a well worn trail over Table Rock<br />

before <strong>the</strong>y knew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Big Bottom settlement.<br />

There was one bona fide resident on <strong>the</strong> C<strong>is</strong>pus prior to <strong>the</strong> gre<strong>at</strong><br />

fire <strong>of</strong> 1902. He was a squ<strong>at</strong>ter by <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> Covel and. had a cabin in<br />

a clearing <strong>of</strong> several acres beside <strong>the</strong> creek which now bears h<strong>is</strong> name.<br />

Randle po<strong>at</strong><strong>of</strong>fice was named, like many topographic fe<strong>at</strong>ures, after<br />

early settlers. The community <strong>of</strong> Vance was named for Sen<strong>at</strong>or Vance <strong>of</strong><br />

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