Autumn 2022

In the heart of the Hérault Gorges, in the Val de Gellone, just 40km from Montpellier,
you’ll find, wedged into a narrow valley, the tiny medieval village of Saint-Guilhemle-Désert.
Janine Marsh visits the fairy tale pretty town…
SPOTLIGHT ON:
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is best approached
from the winding road of the Grand Chemin
Val de Gellone which gives you stupendous
views of the town which sits atop a hill, and
leave via the main street on the far side of the
town, lined with boutiques, bistros and artisan
workshops.
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is a Plus Beaux
Village de France (an official classification for
the prettiest villages in France). In the centre,
the main square is home to an imposing plane
tree. Over 150 years old, it’s said to be the
biggest plane tree in France. All around it,
tables and chairs sprawl out from the cafés
that line the square, the perfect place to sip
chilled wine and nibble on olives as you listen
to the cicadas sing.
On one edge of the square sits the Abbey
of Gellone, one of the oldest Romanesque
churches in France and a UNESCO World
Heritage Site on the Camino de Santiago
(Way of St James) pilgrim route.
The abbey was founded in 804 by Guilhem,
Count of Toulouse. When he moved to this
remote location, his cousin the great Emperor
Charlemagne, gave him what was said to
be a relic of the Holy Cross which made the
abbey an important stop for pilgrims. The wellpreserved
abbey has an air of serenity to it,
and there is a small museum behind the cool
cloisters.
Guilhem made the town famous by defeating
a giant who took up residence in the ruins of
the town’s castle, accompanied by a magpie.
The terrified locals asked Guilhem to help
rid them of the giant. Guilhem dressed as a
maid and, hiding his sword, set out to trick the
beast. But he was recognised by the magpie
who flew off to warn his mate. Sure of his
superiority, the giant ignored the magpie and
fought with the ‘maid’ who of course won, and
Guilhem threw his opponent off a cliff. The
locals claim that though many wild birds live in
the area – no-one has ever seen a magpie in
Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert since that day!
Around the abbey a warren of narrow cobbled
winding alleys spread up and down the hilly
town. As you wander, you’ll pass the 12th
century Tour des Prisons. Along the streets,
water trickles from ancient fountains, some
50 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 51