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Jeweller - October 2022

Seeking clarity: Understand the outlook for the diamond industry Aussie, Aussie, Aussie: Homegrown jewellery brands continue to shine brightly Christmas presents: New and exciting designs ready for the busy season

Seeking clarity: Understand the outlook for the diamond industry
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie: Homegrown jewellery brands continue to shine brightly
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News<br />

Tiffany & Co launches new advertising campaign with Beyoncé<br />

Award-winning US singer Beyoncé has partnered<br />

with Tiffany & Co for the luxury jewellery company’s<br />

latest campaign, ‘Lose Yourself in Love’.<br />

As a part of the campaign, the singer is wearing a<br />

piece from the Tiffany HardWear collection, made<br />

specifically for the campaign. With 18-carat gold<br />

links, the piece reportedly took more than 40 hours<br />

to assemble and polish.<br />

"I am honored to continue the partnership with<br />

Tiffany & Co. and to explore even deeper how<br />

beautiful our connections are, when we truly<br />

celebrate the relationship and importance of love<br />

that we have for ourselves as individuals.",” she<br />

told ELLE.<br />

Beyoncé, who recently released her seventh solo<br />

album, became an ambassador for the Tiffany & Co<br />

brand in 2021.<br />

The partnership was formed shortly after French<br />

luxury conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton<br />

(LVMH) acquired Tiffany & Co and initially, provoked<br />

backlash among consumers.<br />

Titled ‘About Love’, the campaign paid homage to<br />

Audrey Hepburn’s performance in the 1961 film<br />

Breakfast At Tiffany’s, with Beyoncé wearing a<br />

form-fitting black gown and the legendary Tiffany<br />

Diamond, a 128.54-carat canary yellow stone set in<br />

a diamond pendant.<br />

Just three women – Lady Gaga, Audrey Hepburn,<br />

and socialite Mary Whitehouse, had previously worn<br />

the Tiffany Diamond. The campaign ‘made history’<br />

in the sense that Beyoncé was the first woman of<br />

colour to wear the Tiffany Diamond.<br />

However, social media users were quick to point out<br />

that the diamond was unearthed at the Kimberley<br />

Mine in South Africa in 1877, while the region was<br />

still under British colonial rule.<br />

Beyoncé’s decision to wear the Tiffany Diamond<br />

was described by some a tacit endorsement<br />

for colonialism, with some social media users<br />

declaring the diamond to be a ‘blood diamond’.<br />

The Tiffany Diamond does not meet the criteria<br />

which defines a blood diamond, according to the<br />

United Nations.<br />

According to Insider, Beyoncé was reportedly<br />

unaware of the history of the diamond prior to the<br />

launch of the campaign.<br />

For others – including Washington Post columnist<br />

Karen Attiah – the blame lies with Tiffany & Co.<br />

"The 'About Love' campaign fiasco with Beyoncé<br />

lies largely with Tiffany & Co," Attiah wrote on<br />

Twitter.<br />

"It's the familiar new trend of white companies<br />

using black women 'firsts' to rebrand themselves<br />

as socially conscious — while avoiding meaningfully<br />

dealing with their troubling history/practices.<br />

"I find it astonishing that no one on the Tiffany & Co<br />

team or Team Beyoncé said - 'hey maybe wearing<br />

our huge diamond from the notorious colonial<br />

Kimberley mine in South Africa isn’t a good look for<br />

a campaign about black love and excellence'."<br />

Returning to the upcoming ‘Lose Yourself in Love’<br />

campaign, and Tiffany & Co vice president of<br />

product and communication, Alexandre Arnault,<br />

said the company was honoured to welcome the<br />

return of the singer.<br />

“Beyoncé is an inspiration to so many because she<br />

embodies these qualities,” he said.<br />

Did ancient sea creatures help create the Queen’s diamonds?<br />

Following the death of Queen Elizabeth there has<br />

been renewed interest in the history of the Royal<br />

family’s gemstones and diamonds.<br />

While there has been calls for the return of the<br />

infamous Koh-i-Noor to India, it, along with<br />

the Cullinan II (also known as the Second Star of<br />

Africa), are believed to be ‘super-deep’ diamonds.<br />

According to science website Physorg.com, “An<br />

analysis of the first large diamonds confirmed<br />

to come from deep under the Earth's surface<br />

supports initial predictions showing that the<br />

Smithsonian's famous Hope diamond may be<br />

‘super deep’, originating from more than three<br />

times deeper in the Earth than most diamonds.<br />

“It also suggests, in a new finding, that the ‘Crown<br />

Jewels’ Cullinan diamond may also be a superdeep<br />

diamond.”<br />

The research comes from a study by Dr. Evan<br />

Smith of the Gemological Institute of America<br />

(GIA) and was presented at the Goldschmidt<br />

Geochemistry Conference last year.<br />

"We examined the first large gem diamonds<br />

confirmed to originate from Earth's lower<br />

mantle, which is several times deeper than most<br />

other diamonds. The results support earlier<br />

predictions based on smaller gems, suggesting<br />

that diamonds with properties similar to those<br />

studied, including both the Cullinan and Hope<br />

diamonds, are super-deep diamonds”, Smith<br />

explained.<br />

Smaller diamonds are known to materialise<br />

under high pressure at a relatively shallow depth<br />

of 140-200 kilometres amid oxygen-rich rocks. By<br />

contrast, the biggest diamonds are likely forming<br />

140-200 kilometres below the surface within<br />

patches of oxygen-deprived liquid metal, hence<br />

the term ‘super deep’.<br />

A BBC report published on Friday states that “The<br />

largest diamonds in the British Crown Jewels<br />

may be pieces of the ancient ocean floor, which<br />

have drifted down into the interior of our planet –<br />

then come back up again.”<br />

BBC Future senior journalist Zaria Gorvett<br />

explained, “some of the carbon in super-deep<br />

diamonds may be from ancient sea creatures,<br />

which were buried in oceanic plates that<br />

subsequently drifted down into the mantle”.<br />

She notes, “Nearly 120 years later, the megadiamond<br />

[Cullinan] has not been forgotten.<br />

During the late Queen Elizabeth II's funeral<br />

procession, several of the Cullinan's descendants<br />

were placed on the Monarch's coffin, and rode<br />

along with her – they were only removed as she<br />

was lowered into the royal vault.<br />

“That's because today these giant gems are part<br />

of the Crown Jewels, normally kept in the Tower<br />

of London and brought out for state events – the<br />

Cullinan I now resides in the British Sovereign's<br />

Sceptre, while its next-largest sibling, the<br />

Cullinan II, is embedded in the Imperial State<br />

Crown.”<br />

The 2020 study by Smith - along with Wuyi Wang,<br />

GIA vice president research – analysed the<br />

124-carat diamond and found that it formed at the<br />

deeper end of the possible range – at least 660km<br />

(410 miles) below the Earth's surface.<br />

30 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

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