Jeweller - October 2022
Seeking clarity: Understand the outlook for the diamond industry Aussie, Aussie, Aussie: Homegrown jewellery brands continue to shine brightly Christmas presents: New and exciting designs ready for the busy season
Seeking clarity: Understand the outlook for the diamond industry
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie: Homegrown jewellery brands continue to shine brightly
Christmas presents: New and exciting designs ready for the busy season
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Understanding Uncertainty| DIAMOND FEATURE<br />
Vrai<br />
Suzanne Kalan<br />
Lark & Berry<br />
as a result of Russia’s exclusion from a significant portion<br />
of the international market. However, at the same time<br />
as sanctions have been installed against Russia, the<br />
economies of the US, Australia and other western nations<br />
have been weakened for a range of reasons - perhaps the<br />
most prominent of all being inflation stemming from the<br />
stimulus measures which kept consumers active during the<br />
lockdowns of 2021.<br />
Inflationary pressure leads to a decrease in consumer desire<br />
to spend on luxury items such as diamond jewellery, and as<br />
demand falls, so do prices – which when combined with the<br />
tension of supply shortages, leads to a contradictory and<br />
difficult to read market.<br />
“Tighter rough supply implies higher prices, however,<br />
weaker demand for polished diamonds leads to lower<br />
prices. There’s a conflict here and that’s the reason why<br />
things seem so confusing right now,” Rapaport says.<br />
“Prices are set during an interaction between supply and<br />
demand and we must remember it’s mostly demand that<br />
sets price.”<br />
Bifurcation<br />
Bifurcation became a hot topic in the diamond industry<br />
during <strong>2022</strong>. Never heard of the word?<br />
Birfurcation is the separation of one entity into two distinct<br />
segments, and in terms of economics, this traditionally<br />
involves definitions of high and low value, which is why it<br />
started to become a talking point among diamond experts.<br />
Market bifurcation occurs when disjointed market<br />
movements move in opposite directions, or when high<br />
and low quality securities move out of sync, causing the<br />
two segments to operate and perform independently<br />
within the market.<br />
One example of birfucation is US clothing retailer GAP<br />
announcing that the Old Navy brand would be separated<br />
from stores and sold independently. At the time, GAP<br />
executives said the move would allow Old Navy to expand<br />
under a separate individualised business strategy.<br />
Other examples to consider are luxury and economy<br />
brands of cars; think Toyota with Lexus and Hyundai<br />
with Genesis.<br />
A number of voices in the diamond industry are<br />
predicting significant bifurcation within the market –<br />
for a range of reasons.<br />
Talking Heads<br />
Martin Rapaport<br />
Rapaport Group<br />
"We need to get used to<br />
the fact that things work in<br />
cycles and that we are now<br />
involved in a far greater<br />
economic system which<br />
involves factors such as<br />
inflation, interest rates,<br />
levels of disposal incomes<br />
and the wealth effect."<br />
Paul Zimnisky<br />
PZ Diamond Analytics<br />
"However, if we have a holiday<br />
season that is anywhere<br />
near par with that of last<br />
year, I think the industry will<br />
run into natural diamond<br />
shortages as the industry<br />
restocks in early 2023."<br />
Edahn Golan<br />
Diamond Research & Data<br />
“A sizeable chunk of American<br />
consumers are continuing<br />
to display a healthy appetite<br />
for jewellery, with a specific<br />
craving for higher-end goods."<br />
One of those voices is analyst Paul Zimnisky, who recently<br />
espoused the view that in five years time the market will be<br />
significantly separated, specifically from a retail perspective.<br />
“In general, I think natural diamond prices will be higher<br />
and I think lab-created diamond prices will be lower by<br />
the time we reach 2027,” Zimnisky says.<br />
“I think the differentiation between the two products will be<br />
more apparent in the eyes of consumers five years from now.<br />
“Speaking of natural diamonds more specifically, I think<br />
most medium and larger stones will be sold with a<br />
certificate of origin, and the supply chain will be<br />
bifurcated between Russian and non-Russian goods.”<br />
Internal<br />
Rapaport forecasts a similar level of separation for<br />
consumers. Cheaper and common diamond products are<br />
susceptible to change based on economic forces such as<br />
inflation and strong or weak consumer confidence, while at<br />
the luxury level, these pressures are less impactful.<br />
“Inexpensive diamonds will be very sensitive to price<br />
increases. Then you’ll see the bigger diamonds, where<br />
people just don’t care about the prices,” he explains.<br />
“If the prices increase, they’re going to want to buy more<br />
of them in an inflationary environment. So we’re looking<br />
at interesting market scenarios here. We’re looking at<br />
changes. We’re looking at a bifurcation or separation of<br />
markets.”<br />
External<br />
With Russia excluded from the international landscape,<br />
Chaim Even Zohar warned of a divided market in IDEX’s<br />
report, Lamenting the natural diamond producers’<br />
missed income.<br />
“It is clear that for the diamond industry, sanctions are here<br />
to stay and the industry needs to be ready for the long haul,<br />
and choose which side to take. The sanctions will probably<br />
continue even after the conflict stops,” he explains.<br />
“In the event that the industry transitions into a multi-polar<br />
environment, companies clearly need to take sides, having<br />
to scale down their business in order for them to continue<br />
being compliant.<br />
“With the current regulations in place, the industry is likely<br />
to be split down the middle, with some companies abiding<br />
by the sanctions and other companies dealing in Russian<br />
52 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2022</strong>