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Jeweller - October 2022

Seeking clarity: Understand the outlook for the diamond industry Aussie, Aussie, Aussie: Homegrown jewellery brands continue to shine brightly Christmas presents: New and exciting designs ready for the busy season

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Understanding Uncertainty| DIAMOND FEATURE<br />

Vrai<br />

Suzanne Kalan<br />

Lark & Berry<br />

as a result of Russia’s exclusion from a significant portion<br />

of the international market. However, at the same time<br />

as sanctions have been installed against Russia, the<br />

economies of the US, Australia and other western nations<br />

have been weakened for a range of reasons - perhaps the<br />

most prominent of all being inflation stemming from the<br />

stimulus measures which kept consumers active during the<br />

lockdowns of 2021.<br />

Inflationary pressure leads to a decrease in consumer desire<br />

to spend on luxury items such as diamond jewellery, and as<br />

demand falls, so do prices – which when combined with the<br />

tension of supply shortages, leads to a contradictory and<br />

difficult to read market.<br />

“Tighter rough supply implies higher prices, however,<br />

weaker demand for polished diamonds leads to lower<br />

prices. There’s a conflict here and that’s the reason why<br />

things seem so confusing right now,” Rapaport says.<br />

“Prices are set during an interaction between supply and<br />

demand and we must remember it’s mostly demand that<br />

sets price.”<br />

Bifurcation<br />

Bifurcation became a hot topic in the diamond industry<br />

during <strong>2022</strong>. Never heard of the word?<br />

Birfurcation is the separation of one entity into two distinct<br />

segments, and in terms of economics, this traditionally<br />

involves definitions of high and low value, which is why it<br />

started to become a talking point among diamond experts.<br />

Market bifurcation occurs when disjointed market<br />

movements move in opposite directions, or when high<br />

and low quality securities move out of sync, causing the<br />

two segments to operate and perform independently<br />

within the market.<br />

One example of birfucation is US clothing retailer GAP<br />

announcing that the Old Navy brand would be separated<br />

from stores and sold independently. At the time, GAP<br />

executives said the move would allow Old Navy to expand<br />

under a separate individualised business strategy.<br />

Other examples to consider are luxury and economy<br />

brands of cars; think Toyota with Lexus and Hyundai<br />

with Genesis.<br />

A number of voices in the diamond industry are<br />

predicting significant bifurcation within the market –<br />

for a range of reasons.<br />

Talking Heads<br />

Martin Rapaport<br />

Rapaport Group<br />

"We need to get used to<br />

the fact that things work in<br />

cycles and that we are now<br />

involved in a far greater<br />

economic system which<br />

involves factors such as<br />

inflation, interest rates,<br />

levels of disposal incomes<br />

and the wealth effect."<br />

Paul Zimnisky<br />

PZ Diamond Analytics<br />

"However, if we have a holiday<br />

season that is anywhere<br />

near par with that of last<br />

year, I think the industry will<br />

run into natural diamond<br />

shortages as the industry<br />

restocks in early 2023."<br />

Edahn Golan<br />

Diamond Research & Data<br />

“A sizeable chunk of American<br />

consumers are continuing<br />

to display a healthy appetite<br />

for jewellery, with a specific<br />

craving for higher-end goods."<br />

One of those voices is analyst Paul Zimnisky, who recently<br />

espoused the view that in five years time the market will be<br />

significantly separated, specifically from a retail perspective.<br />

“In general, I think natural diamond prices will be higher<br />

and I think lab-created diamond prices will be lower by<br />

the time we reach 2027,” Zimnisky says.<br />

“I think the differentiation between the two products will be<br />

more apparent in the eyes of consumers five years from now.<br />

“Speaking of natural diamonds more specifically, I think<br />

most medium and larger stones will be sold with a<br />

certificate of origin, and the supply chain will be<br />

bifurcated between Russian and non-Russian goods.”<br />

Internal<br />

Rapaport forecasts a similar level of separation for<br />

consumers. Cheaper and common diamond products are<br />

susceptible to change based on economic forces such as<br />

inflation and strong or weak consumer confidence, while at<br />

the luxury level, these pressures are less impactful.<br />

“Inexpensive diamonds will be very sensitive to price<br />

increases. Then you’ll see the bigger diamonds, where<br />

people just don’t care about the prices,” he explains.<br />

“If the prices increase, they’re going to want to buy more<br />

of them in an inflationary environment. So we’re looking<br />

at interesting market scenarios here. We’re looking at<br />

changes. We’re looking at a bifurcation or separation of<br />

markets.”<br />

External<br />

With Russia excluded from the international landscape,<br />

Chaim Even Zohar warned of a divided market in IDEX’s<br />

report, Lamenting the natural diamond producers’<br />

missed income.<br />

“It is clear that for the diamond industry, sanctions are here<br />

to stay and the industry needs to be ready for the long haul,<br />

and choose which side to take. The sanctions will probably<br />

continue even after the conflict stops,” he explains.<br />

“In the event that the industry transitions into a multi-polar<br />

environment, companies clearly need to take sides, having<br />

to scale down their business in order for them to continue<br />

being compliant.<br />

“With the current regulations in place, the industry is likely<br />

to be split down the middle, with some companies abiding<br />

by the sanctions and other companies dealing in Russian<br />

52 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

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