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Jeweller - October 2022

Seeking clarity: Understand the outlook for the diamond industry Aussie, Aussie, Aussie: Homegrown jewellery brands continue to shine brightly Christmas presents: New and exciting designs ready for the busy season

Seeking clarity: Understand the outlook for the diamond industry
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie: Homegrown jewellery brands continue to shine brightly
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OPINION<br />

Soapbox<br />

Forecasting the future<br />

in times of great change<br />

The international diamond industry is undergoing a period of significant change.<br />

PAUL ZIMNISKY outlines his vision of the future.<br />

Fellow New Yorker Bob Dylan once<br />

famously sang ‘the times they are<br />

a-changin’ and for the international<br />

diamond industry, those words are<br />

poignant in <strong>2022</strong> and beyond.<br />

The industry is undergoing a significant<br />

period of change as pressure is applied<br />

on a range of fronts, including but not<br />

limited to the rise of lab-created diamonds,<br />

geopolitical forces, and changing<br />

consumer mindsets, namely concerning<br />

environmentalism.<br />

For those operating in the retail sphere,<br />

keeping abreast of the changes that will<br />

come in the next five years is paramount.<br />

Prices<br />

In general, I believe natural diamond<br />

prices will be higher and lab-created<br />

diamond prices will be lower by the<br />

time we reach 2027.<br />

Perhaps most importantly of all, the<br />

differentiation between the two products<br />

will be more apparent in the eyes of<br />

consumers five years from now.<br />

Speaking of natural diamonds more<br />

specifically, most medium and larger<br />

stones will likely be sold with a certificate<br />

of origin, and the supply chain will be<br />

bifurcated between Russian and non-<br />

Russian goods.<br />

Speaking to lab-created diamonds more<br />

specifically, there will be more products<br />

sold the way that Lightbox is – fashion<br />

jewellery sold in linear price points.<br />

As far as new products, I am of the opinion<br />

that we will see lab-created diamond<br />

jewelry that is available in shapes,<br />

sizes, and colours that is not possible<br />

or economic with natural diamonds.<br />

For example, all-diamond rings and<br />

diamonds shaped as symbols, or perhaps<br />

as alphabet letters or zodiac signs. These<br />

will be available in many different colors.<br />

Also, I predict that we will see a lot more<br />

companies offering websites that allow<br />

customers to design and create their own<br />

custom jewellery in the coming years.<br />

Lab-created diamonds<br />

Since lab-created diamonds have<br />

become more mainstream over the past<br />

six or seven years, their availability and<br />

distribution has been intricately connected<br />

to supply. However, in recent years, levels<br />

of production have exploded, primarily in<br />

China and India.<br />

So, going forward it is going to be a lot<br />

more difficult to track lab-created<br />

diamond supply and sales, especially as<br />

more product is sold globally and on<br />

online marketplaces such as Amazon<br />

and Walmart in the US.<br />

I am forecasting that global lab-created<br />

diamond jewellery sales will exceed 10<br />

per cent of all diamond jewellery sales for<br />

the first time this year, with the share even<br />

larger in the US.<br />

That share will continue to creep up over<br />

the next five years, however, at a slower<br />

pace than in the past, as consumers<br />

perceive the products as being less<br />

substitutable.<br />

One eye on India<br />

The trend of lab-created diamond prices,<br />

both as a standalone product and relative<br />

to natural diamond prices, has been down<br />

and to the right since 2015 or so. That trend<br />

remains intact.<br />

Higher energy prices globally could put<br />

some stabilisation in nominal lab-created<br />

diamond prices in the short term, as that<br />

input cost is passed on from the producers,<br />

however, longer term I still see lab-created<br />

diamond prices aligning more with the cost<br />

of production, and not with that of natural<br />

diamonds, which is lower than where we<br />

are today.<br />

In the coming years, an important supply<br />

catalyst will be the Indian government’s<br />

For the natural<br />

diamond<br />

market,<br />

continuing<br />

to improve<br />

supply chain<br />

transparency<br />

and increasing<br />

spend on<br />

category<br />

marketing are<br />

the two key<br />

items to<br />

focus on.<br />

move to finance Indian lab-created<br />

diamond producers with loans to be<br />

used to purchase capital equipment,<br />

for example CVD reactors.<br />

The Indian government sees this as a way<br />

to stimulate exports. This is likely to lead<br />

to a further boom in lab-created diamond<br />

production volumes.<br />

So, I expect supply volumes to continue to<br />

ramp up, while relative prices continue to<br />

retreat.<br />

Where to from here?<br />

For the natural diamond market,<br />

continuing to improve supply chain<br />

transparency and increasing spend on<br />

category marketing are the two key<br />

items to focus on.<br />

There is a relatively straightforward<br />

solution to most of the natural diamond<br />

industry’s biggest challenges.<br />

If a consumer knows the source of their<br />

natural diamond – most importantly<br />

confirming that it is not a ‘blood diamond<br />

– then that provides a story and most<br />

importantly, a point of differentiation from<br />

that of a lab-created diamond.<br />

As far as marketing, anyone that has<br />

followed this industry for long enough<br />

understands how instrumental effective<br />

marketing is.<br />

The diamond industry lost its way a little bit<br />

in this area over the past decade and the<br />

prior, however, I sense that things are back<br />

on track with the Natural Diamond Council<br />

and the work that they are doing.<br />

The rest of the industry should support and<br />

contribute to this initiative when possible<br />

as everyone will benefit longer-term.<br />

Name: Paul Zimnisky<br />

Business: Paul Zimnisky Diamond Analytics<br />

Position: Independent analyst<br />

Location: New York City, US<br />

Years in the industry: 8<br />

74 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2022</strong>

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