The New Spruce Forge Manual of Locksmithing: A Blacksmith’s Guide to Simple Lock Mechanisms
The New Spruce Forge Manual of Locksmithing: a Blacksmith’s Guide to Simple Lock Mechanisms is a totally revised and expanded version of the original work from 1999. This new hardcover edition, at 304 pages and with more than 800 color photos and illustrations, is more than double the size of the original manual. It is divided into two distinct sections: Technical Information - This section is a reference manual in itself that covers the specific tools and techniques needed to build all the parts for each lock, as well as providing the information needed to understand the assembly instructions outlined in the second section. The Locks: Patterns & Instructions - This section provides the plans and detailed instructions for each of the 14 lock projects in this new edition. The clear assembly instructions describe when and how to use the technical information provided in section one. The authors have maintained their original trademark style that relies on well-illustrated step-by-step instructions that guide you through the whole lock-making process. They have also kept their low-tech approach that demonstrates how to go about creating good work using only a handful of simple tools. Making blacksmith locks is an age-old skill the authors of this manual are helping to preserve by passing on their knowledge to this book’s readers. The New Spruce Forge Manual of Locksmithing is also an excellent introduction to benchwork, which is a useful skill for any blacksmith to acquire. This manual will become a valuable, trusted and often referred to sourcebook in your blacksmithing library. Hardcover, 304 pages, more than 800 photos and illustrations.
The New Spruce Forge Manual of Locksmithing: a Blacksmith’s Guide to Simple Lock Mechanisms is a totally revised and expanded version of the original work from 1999. This new hardcover edition, at 304 pages and with more than 800 color photos and illustrations, is more than double the size of the original manual.
It is divided into two distinct sections:
Technical Information - This section is a reference manual in itself that covers the specific tools and techniques needed to build all the parts for each lock, as well as providing the information needed to understand the assembly instructions outlined in the second section.
The Locks: Patterns & Instructions - This section provides the plans and detailed instructions for each of the 14 lock projects in this new edition. The clear assembly instructions describe when and how to use the technical information provided in section one.
The authors have maintained their original trademark style that relies on well-illustrated step-by-step instructions that guide you through the whole lock-making process. They have also kept their low-tech approach that demonstrates how to go about creating good work using only a handful of simple tools.
Making blacksmith locks is an age-old skill the authors of this manual are helping to preserve by passing on their knowledge to this book’s readers. The New Spruce Forge Manual of Locksmithing is also an excellent introduction to benchwork, which is a useful skill for any blacksmith to acquire. This manual will become a valuable, trusted and often referred to sourcebook in your blacksmithing library.
Hardcover, 304 pages, more than 800 photos and illustrations.
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Planishing<br />
Planishing is refining the outer surface <strong>of</strong> the forging without changing the cross section. It is <strong>of</strong>ten combined<br />
with any forging operation that results in a change <strong>to</strong> the cross section <strong>of</strong> the bar. <strong>The</strong> hottest part <strong>of</strong> the heat<br />
is always used for all the rough forging. Once the bar has cooled down past the lower end <strong>of</strong> the forging<br />
range the smith can start correcting any irregularities in the forging that might have happened during that<br />
heat. This is an effective way <strong>to</strong> use the lowest end <strong>of</strong> the forging range <strong>to</strong> clean up problems that may be<br />
developing and give you a solid frame <strong>of</strong> reference for the next heat. Light hammering with the flat face <strong>of</strong><br />
the hammer combined with the low heat will confine the effects <strong>of</strong> the hammering <strong>to</strong> the surface <strong>of</strong> the metal.<br />
<strong>The</strong> work must be completely supported by the anvil in order <strong>to</strong> prevent any further dis<strong>to</strong>rtion.<br />
Cross Peening<br />
Cross peening is fullering the bar by spreading its volume across the width <strong>of</strong> the bar. <strong>The</strong> cross peen <strong>of</strong><br />
the hammer is used for this operation. Unlike the main hammer face, the peen <strong>of</strong> the hammer is only used<br />
for fullering, so it is wedge shaped with a narrow, rounded face. <strong>The</strong> narrow face <strong>of</strong> the cross peen sits at<br />
90-degrees <strong>to</strong> the handle. Driving the cross peen in the center <strong>of</strong> the bar will create fullers that are parallel <strong>to</strong><br />
the length <strong>of</strong> the bar causing the bar <strong>to</strong> become wider, without affecting the length very much.<br />
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