J’AIME JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023

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OILS SUCH AS JACK’S WILD GARLIC OIL, ARE A GOOD WAY TO PRESERVE FORAGED INGREDIENTS FOR LATER USE wild garlic oil to last me the year,” says Jack. “I use it for popcorn mostly, but you can use it to dress a dish, to make a mayonnaise to go with langoustines, there are so many uses for it. “You can also ferment the leaves, which gives a really intense flavour. With wild garlic you also have the buds before the plant starts flowering, the flowers themselves which you can use as a fresh garnish, and then a few weeks after the flowers have died the garlic capers come out. “You have to be there at exactly the right time to get the capers though; and if it’s windy then you can find they’re all gone. The capers are great though; you have to salt them down for a couple of weeks because they’re really hard, just like normal capers, and then pickle them. They just explode with flavour, you can use them in a beautiful sauce for fish, or to add to a salad - they’re great if you really like garlic!” When it comes to pickling, Jack mostly prefers to use a neutral rice vinegar to let the flavour of the produce shine through. “For me, rice vinegar has the least amount of flavour to it; it’s not overpowering. If you use something like sherry vinegar it’s really tangy and can be too much. “I use rice vinegar for most of my preserving. A lot of chefs will have their own pickle recipes with combinations of vinegar and aromats but, for me, I feel it often masks the flavour of the ingredients.” In the land-locked Midlands, Jack says after wild garlic season is finished you should be on the lookout for elderflower and cherry blossom - both of which are perfect for making cordials. However, he says, you need to be careful when foraging elderflower as it has a near-identical appearance to a member of the nightshade family. “Elderflower grows everywhere but it has a similar appearance to a nightshade plant so you need to be careful; elderflower has an unmistakable scent though, so if you’re unsure just smell it!” While seasonal vegetables are thin on the ground at this time of year, Jack says that a couple of lesscommon root veggies are good to try right now. “Jerusalem artichokes are great to use now; they’re similar to a potato and are particularly great as a delicious puree - I featured a Jerusalem artichoke puree with some Jerusalem artichoke crisps on our New Year’s Eve menu. You can also just roast them whole, scoop out the flesh and cook it down with some shallots, onion, garlic, then dry out the skins and fill them back up like loaded skins. It’s really versatile.” Jack’s other top tip to try is kohlrabi, a member of the turnip family which works particularly well with white fish. The earthy flavour is brought out by using plenty of butter in the cooking process - one of Jack’s favourite ideas is to top and tail the kohlrabi and peel with a knife before roasting in a pan with plenty of butter then cooking slowly in a low oven until soft. Jack’s top seasonal tips: Forage for: wild garlic - a great addition to so many dishes, and perfect for preserving in oils Cook it now: Jerusalem artichoke and kohlrabi - both delicious root vegetables which can be used as an alternative carb source to potatoes WILD GARLIC GROWS QUICKLY AND IN ABUNDANCE 36 www.jaimemagazine.com
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J’AIME JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023

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