Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 23

Edition 23 – August 2022
Modern
sewing
starts here..
Focus on
FABRIC
See the summer out and
early autumn in with
these beautiful fabrics!
BEST-SELLERS
What modern makers are sewing!
on
TREND
Bag styles for
this season
MARK
Hit the
Pattern markings and
transferring them
LIESL
GIBSON
Talks trends, style and sewing
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Lisboa Walking Shorts from Liesl + Co

Pattern Finder
www.hantex.co.uk/patternfinder
Find the perfect pattern for your next project …
search by brand, garment type, fabric type, skill level or even season
Pattern Finder
Use the find a stockist facility to support independent retailers and designers

Editor’s Letter
Whether you are an avid follower of fashion or have a
more classic style, this issue is full of patterns and fabrics
to see you through the coming months. Catch up on the
latest launch of new patterns, as well as a countdown of
the top 10 patterns that are proving the most popular
with sewers at the moment. There’s bound to be
something there for your next project!
We catch up with Liesl Gibson from Liesl + Co who
explains why timeless styles are a better choice for her
wardrobe! With the holiday season now in full swing,
we look at essential travel bags from ByAnnie and bag
patterns from Mrs H that will improve your bag making
skills.
A sewing pattern has lots of information, which you’ll
need to transfer onto your fabric. Julie Bonnar discusses
how to do this and the handy tools you’ll need. We
also share beautiful fabrics to see the summer out and
edge into autumn. Jacqui Smith makes the in-demand
Wildwood Dress from Sew House Seven and takes a look
at why Ramie is a great fabric to make it in!
Happy sewing!
Hantex team
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Subscribe free to get your copy – click here
#modernsewingstartshere

New apparel pattern releases to sew this season!
SEW TO GROW
There are two new patterns from
this Australian pattern brand:
The Lanti Swing Dress is a
versatile design that features
three fun options to suit your
style and taste. Choose from a
flirty smock dress with a gathered waist, a sleek A-line dress with pockets, and a
basic top that will become a wardrobe staple.
You also have the option of adding short sleeves with a band or 3/4 sleeve with
a frill. This is a perfect ‘learn the basics of dressmaking’ pattern to start building
or adding to your me-made wardrobe.
The Carolina Culottes are a perfect blend of casual comfort and effortless style.
Designed with the confident beginner in mind, this pattern has an elasticised
back and flat front waistband that will sit just above your hips. The front pleat
adds structure, but also allows for more room through the thigh area. The side
pockets are designed to lie flat so they won’t add any extra bulk. With two length
variations - trousers and shorts, you can enjoy making them in different fabrics for
different seasons and occasions!
To see more from Sew To Grow - click here
CLOSET CORE
With a clean finish and minimalist design lines, the Faye
Swimsuit has a scoop neckline and a slightly cheeky cut, with
enough variations to create a full wardrobe of swimwear. Make
high-rise bikini bottom and a bikini top with straight straps or
a more sporty and fun version with a low-rise bikini bottom
and a bikini top with a strappy back and supportive under-bust
band. If you prefer a one-piece then the classic maillot with a
deep scoop back and adjustable straps is for you!
To find you nearest stockist of Closet Core Patterns – click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand
or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

JALIE
Renown for its specialist patterns for all kinds of sports and activewear but also for its well-fitting everyday patterns for
women, men and children in a broad range of sizes. This Canadian pattern designer has just added six new designs to its
already extensive range of patterns:
1. Fiona Raglan Sleeve Leotard
This is what this company excels at -
producing patterns that no other designer
does! This go-to raglan sleeve leotard is
ideal for any dancer, gymnast or skater!
2. Zoom Modern Joggers
This ankle-cuff design is made for French
Terry and has a high-rise wide elasticated
waist that’s comfortable for days off.
3. Nathalie Wrap Funnel Neck
Sweatshirt
Make a comfortable sweatshirt, tunic
or sweater dress with a chunky wrap
funnel neck and optional kangaroo
pocket. Choose from long sleeves with
cuffs or short hemmed sleeves.
4. Jocelyne Polo Dress
This casual knit dress has a short set-in
sleeve and polo-style collar. Princess
seams make adjustments easy, and the
hem hits just above the knee making it
super stylish and easy to wear!
5. Karine Raglan Cardigan
A boxy cardigan is the perfect companion
for layering up as the weather starts to
change. With long raglan sleeves, and
the length options, you will want to make
several in different colours!
6. Danaelle Zip-front Hoodie
We love a practical zip-front hoodie and
this pattern has lots of lovely options
for long sleeves, cuffs, hem bands and
angled pockets. The pattern comes in two
lengths - hip and tunic-length.
For more sewing patterns from Jalie Patterns - click here
WARDROBE BY ME
This company has added two patterns
to its range of patterns:
The Marianne Dress has a fitted
bodice with front buttons and an
A-line shaped skirt. Make the shawl
collar pointed or round, and change
the length from maxi to mini. Use light
to medium-weight jersey fabric with
at least 30% horizontal stretch, and
this dress will take you through the
seasons. It comes in sizes 0-24 (US)
and 30-54 (EU).
The Safari and Bucket Hat pattern
offers sewers a classic soft hat with
lining, stitch details on the brim, decorative band around the hat, and binding
around the hat’s brim. Make yours in canvas, denim, or other medium-weight
woven fabric. The pattern caters for head circumference 52-64 cm (20½-25¼in)
so is compatible with children’s sizing.
To take a look at all the sewing patterns available from Wardrobe By Me – click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand
or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

sew
enduring
Liesl Gibson from Liesl + Co talks trends,
style and sewing!
When creating new sewing patterns, how
important are the current trends?
I’m not a big fan of trends. I believe in style, rather than
trends. Obviously the eye changes with time and silhouettes
evolve, so a classic trench coat of 30 years ago probably
looks a bit dated when compared to a classic trench coat of
today. But in general I try to avoid trends. I prefer to focus
on classic, timeless pieces that will endure longer. That said,
sometimes I include a trendy detail in a pattern. For example,
in our recent Geneva V-neck Blouse pattern I included a
lantern sleeve option because statement sleeves are popular
right now.
Do you think that the trends on the High
Street matter less to dressmakers?
I think in general, trends matter less and less right now. Even
in high fashion anything goes these days. People prefer to
express themselves through their choices, and designers are
referencing every decade and every fashion direction without
prejudice these days. In the end, you should sew and wear
what you like, not what someone else tells you is trendy today!

Your latest designs, how did you decide what you wanted to add to your pattern collection when it
comes to styles?
With most of our patterns, I try to think about what’s missing from our line and what our customers might want to sew.
For our most recent summer 2022 collection, I wanted chic walking shorts, since good shorts aren’t simply shortened trousers. That
idea resulted in the Lisboa Walking Shorts, with two different back pocket options and a paper-bag-style elastic waist. I had also been
dreaming of narrow-strapped summer styles with built-in bras so you don’t need to worry about bra straps showing, and that resulted
in two styles for the Enmore Halter Dress + Top, which is a really chic little summer dress (with pockets!) and our Tribeca Knit Cami
that has two neckline options.
Dressmaking has become even more popular since the COVID pandemic and lockdown, what are
the benefits of making your own clothes?
Where to begin! First, you get the satisfaction of making something with your own hands in an age when so few people have the
opportunity or time to do so! But on top of that, creative freedom, the ability to wear something no one else is wearing, and the
chance to make something that fits YOUR body rather than the ‘average’ body are all benefits.
The rise of refashioned garments contributes to a more sustainable lifestyle but it’s also a way of
connecting with the clothes in your wardrobe in a positive way. Is this something you like to do?
This is something I like to do! I have a stack of clothing on my desk that I plan to alter when time allows in the next month or two.
On some pieces, I’ll just adjust the size a bit or shorten a skirt, but for others I have a wild idea and I can completely re-make the
piece to better fit my current preferences.
To view the more sewing patterns available from Liesl + Co – click here

Hit the
MARK
Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses pattern markings and how to
transfer them to your fabric
Pattern markings
A sewing pattern has lots of information, some of which you’ll need to transfer onto your fabric. The more difficult the design, the
more markings there are likely to be!
HERE’S HOW TO WORK WITH THE MAIN ONES:
The Grain Line
This straight line on the pattern helps you place the paper
pattern on the fabric the right way. A grain line usually runs
vertically through a pattern and indicates the fabric’s edge that
is aligned with the fold. If the grain isn’t straight, you can end up
with a garment that doesn’t fit properly.
TIP: These lines can be quite short so it’s useful to extend them
so that they run right across, especially on larger pattern pieces.
Notches
These are probably the most common. They look like small
triangles or a line on the edge of the pattern piece, and are
used for matching one pattern piece to another accurately.
Use the tip of your scissors to cut the notch as a small
triangle ‘in or out’ of the seam allowance on the fabric. I find
it simpler to make one cut through the middle of the notch –
this saves time and also there’s less chance of weakening the
seam allowance.
TIP: A double notch is something slightly different and
indicates the direction that a fabric piece should be sewn in.
Darts
A dart is represented with two lines (dart legs) that come
together at a specific point, for example at the bust. You can
use either the pin-marking technique by making a hole through
the dart points or a more traditional method is to use tailor’s
tacks. A little more time consuming but this will leave threads
on both pieces of fabric in the correct position.
TIP: A quick method that I use – is to cut the dart out on the
pattern according to your size – this makes it easier to transfer
to the fabric.

Pintucks
These are marked with straight lines on the pattern and are a way of manipulating the fabric so it can be brought together to form
a tuck. Usually these pattern pieces can look a larger size or a weird shape, as they will be folded. Mark pintuck lines on your fabric
with a removable pen or tailor’s chalk on the right side of the fabric using a ruler to create evenly spaced lines.
TIP: Make sewing these easier with a pintuck presser
foot, and sew your pintucks flat before construction.
This foot has evenly spaced grooves on the bottom,
and when used with a twin needle, it creates evenly
spaced raised tucks of fabric. It will have 3, 5, 7, or 9
grooves on the bottom, and which one you choose
depends on the fabric weight being sewn. The finer
the fabric – the smaller the pintuck will be, and the
more grooves there are to accommodate this.
FABRIC FOLDS:
Pleats
The symbol for pleats tells you to fold the fabric in the direction of the arrow matching
the vertical lines. When circles are present, they are an additional marking to match.
Buttonholes
There are two markings. The buttonhole
placement is marked with a straight line
with closed ends. Transfer onto your fabric
pieces with chalk or tailor’s tacks. These
always sit horizontally so the buttonhole
doesn’t pull and open easily! A buttonhole
presser foot is the quickest way of sewing
a neat buttonhole.
The closed ends show how long the
button should be. A cross will indicate
where the button needs to be sewn.
Always mark these when your fabric is flat.
NB: A bust point is also marked with a
circle with a cross or X in the middle to
show the centre bust point or apex. You
don’t need to transfer this point to your
fabric and is treated as reference point to
help you make any fit adjustments to your
pattern before cutting.
TOOLS, TOOLS, TOOLS!
There are lots of tools on the market to choose from, so let’s
look at the more common ones:
Tailor’s Chalk & Pencils
Tailor’s chalk slabs or triangles are
available in several colours – red, white,
yellow and blue. These are inexpensive,
last longer than pencils, and are easy
to use and easy to brush off the fabric.
Choose the colour that stands out the
most on your fabric.
Chalk pencils are easy to sharpen and
draw in hemlines, dart legs, pockets and
anything where you need to see a finer
stitching line.
Marking Pens
There are lots of pens available on the market including air or water-soluble,
which disappear from the fabric. These are really popular but more expensive
than its chalk counterpart.
TIP: Test on your fabric first, and also remember air-soluble pens only last for
around 24 hours, so only use if you intend to sew straight away!
Tracing Wheel & Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper
This is a more traditional way to mark. The carbon paper sits between the pattern
and the wrong side of the fabric with the coloured side of the carbon paper facing
the wrong side. Using the tracing wheel roll over the pattern marks and when
the pattern is peeled back, there’ll be a row of dots on your fabric. This is a good
method if you’re working with a difficult or thicker fabric.
TIP: You can also get a double wheel tracer, which is handy for marking a seam
allowance as the wheels sit approx. 1.5cm apart!
For more marking tools – click here

BEST
sellers
A countdown of the top 10 patterns that are
proving popular with sewers. Why not sew
one of these for your next project
9
10
The Saguaro Set from Friday Pattern Co
Remy Raglan
Top by Sew
House Seven
Patina Blouse
by Friday
Pattern Co
7
8
Pietra
Trousers and
Shorts by
Closet Core
Patterns
6
Tamarack Jacket by
Grainline Studio

5
4
Sagebrush Top from
Friday Pattern Co
Wilder Gown by
Friday Pattern Co
2
3
Elodie Dress by
Closet Core Patterns
Fringe Dress &
Blouse by Chalk &
Notch Patterns
1
Hovea Jacket &
Coat by Megan
Nielsen
To find out about
more of the bestselling
patterns -
click here

Cream
Tan
Dusky Pink
VINTAGE COTTON
The new collection of vintage cotton has a washed effect finish that
gives the fabric a lovely worn look. This Nantucket range is ideal for
making shirts, shorts, trousers, dresses and anything that requires a
summery feel. This 100% cotton fabric comes in an extensive range of
19 soft colours so there’s bound to be a colour to suit your next project.
To view the Vintage Cotton collection
from Modelo - click here
Focus on
FABRICS
Soft Aqua
See the summer out and early autumn
in with these beautiful fabrics!
Olive
Rock Candy
Navy
SHOW YOUR TRUE COLOURS!
AGF Studio has 15 new shades to add to its Pure Solids collection. Printed on
the same high quality pima cotton, they will compliment the designer ranges
beautifully. This collection is also perfect to use as a basic in their own right to
create a capsule wardrobe or add a splash of colour to your soft furnishing projects.
To view all Pure Solids,
Elements & Blenders fabric
collections from Art Gallery
Fabrics - click here
To find your nearest stockist of the current Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here

Meadow One (available in canvas and rayon too)
Butterfly Bliss One
LA VIE EN ROSE
It all started with an infinite love of design that
paved the pathway for a wonderful history of
beautiful fabrics. This gorgeous fabric collection
tells the story of Pat Bravo’s artistry and brings
them together harmoniously through Pat’s
signature colour, pink!
Khokhloma One (available in flannel too)
Whirl One
All Art Gallery Fabrics collections
contain 100% premium cottons
but also many have rayon, flannel
and knit options too.
To find a stockist near you of
the current Art Gallery Fabrics
collections - click here
Pink/Red/Orange Multi Tie Dye
Double Gauze
Navy Double Gauze
TIE-DYE
Blue/Green Multi Tie Dye
Double Gauze
Tie-dye is currently one of the most searched
fabric types and was a popular fabric on the
spring/summer catwalks. The Sibu range
from Modelo taps into this summer trend and
features some lovely tie-dye prints in 100%
cotton double gauze fabric. Double gauze is
a lightweight, soft and breathable fabric that’s
constructed of two thin cotton layers that
are sewn together at regular intervals. These
stitches provide a faint embossing throughout
the entire fabric.
Rachel Pinheiro in the Saltwater Dress from Friday Pattern Co
To view this collection from Modelo
- click here and scroll down to the
Double Gauze section
To find your nearest stockist of the current Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here

MAKING THE
Wildwood Wrap Dress
I really liked this dress pattern from Sew House Seven when it was first launched, and it seemed
the perfect match for this lovely plum/raspberry Ramie fabric
Jacqui Smith
The Wildwood Wrap Dress
is a pattern I’ve wanted
to make for some time,
not least because I was
intrigued by the novel and
clever shaping features
The bodice is shaped with pleats at
the neckline and wrap waist, along
with darts at the back of the skirt,
which gives the dress such a nice
shape and fit.
The waist seam sits really well at a slightly high waist.
I think this is very flattering fit as this is often the
narrowest point on the figure. This is accentuated by the
Obi wrap belt that could easily be made in a contrasting
colour. You could also make the belt in a variety of
colours to change the look of the dress and co-ordinate
with accessories.
This pattern is suitable for intermediate sewers and there
are many clever details in the design of the dress such
as the French seams on the shoulders and underarm
seams, which means that you can roll the sleeves without
exposing open seams.
I was impressed with the construction of the pockets. I
have sewn for many years and the Wildwood’s pockets
give perhaps the neatest finish I’ve seen on this type of
pocket. They sit really well, with no gape whatsoever.
For those who like generous pockets, these are a really
good size!
Also I liked the way that the hem facings worked. They
give a really good finish to the wrap skirt and the slightly
asymmetric hem adds another effective detail to the
design. The only thing to remember is that you do need
to determine the length you want to make when cutting
your dress pattern out. I made version A’s length, but
combined this with version B’s sleeves.
Overall, I’m pleased with how this dress turned out
and will definitely be making this pattern again. I’ll be
interested to experiment with different fabrics to give it
an alternative look.

More about Ramie...like Linen but without the creases
For anyone not familiar with ramie – it’s a linen-like fibre, native to
China and comes from a nettle type plant. Ramie is a cellulose fibre
just like rayon, it’s extremely absorbent and breathes well making it
the perfect summer fabric! It has a similar look and texture to linen but
does not crease as much. As an extra bonus it’s easy to look after and
like linen, it improves the more it’s washed.
Although Ramie doesn’t generally shrink, I did prewash it as I prefer to
do this to find out how it behaves when washed. I washed it on a cool
wash and hung to dry.
For me, it’s the Ramie’s texture and stability that appealed, particularly
for this Wildwood Dress. On the face of it, this is a simple wrap over
dress, but there are a lot of extra details that not only make it look
super special when worn, but also make for an interesting project.
After making this dress I asked the pattern’s
designer, Peggy Mead, to comment on how she felt
Ramie worked with the Wildwood
“I was so thrilled to see Jacqui’s beautiful Wildwood Wrap Dress in
this raspberry Ramie fabric! The colour is so vibrant and gorgeous
and the dress really looks beautiful on her. I remember lots of Ramie
fabrics in the ’80s but haven’t really seen it around since. I always liked
the look and drape of Ramie and it’s nice to see that it made such a
nice Wildwood Dress.”
“I created the Wildwood Wrap Dress pattern using the draping method to create the origami-like shape of the bodice. The
bodice is loose in the bust so there is very little likelihood of needing an FBA or SBA. While the skirt, however, is more fitted and
as Jacqui mentioned, you will want to determine your length ahead of time as the hem facings are sewn on. Simply measure from
your natural waist down to where you’d like your hem to finish and add or subtract from the skirt pattern accordingly. I always
advise basting together your garment first so it’s easy to unpick if you need to make adjustments. And yes, the pockets are one of
my favourite features too Jacqui!”
EDITORS NOTES
THE PATTERN:
Sew House Seven is an independent pattern with a focus on, but not
limited to, creating beautiful women’s sewing patterns that can be sewn
up quickly and easily, yet appeal to sewists of all levels.
The Wildwood Wrap Dress is perfect for parties, weddings or the office
and when you just feel like wearing a dress. It’s a true wrap dress, with
the option to wear with a detachable obi-inspired belt. The beauty of this
dress is created by the drape of the shawl collar and enhanced by the
waist and shoulder pleats. The pattern comes in sizes 0-22 and 16-34.
To view this pattern and others from Sew House Seven – click here
THE FABRIC:
Jacqui has used Modelo’s Sligo Collection – this mediumweight
fabric has 20 beautiful colour ways to choose from.
To view the complete collection – click here

TRENDSETTER
Lace and frill blouses are in vogue so why not sew your own with one of
these fabulous patterns!
POETIC LICENCE
A style that was the height of
femininity at the turn of the 20th
century, with the Sears Roebuck
catalogue offering more than 150
versions of this blouse. The highcollar,
back-buttoning yoke style is
synonymous with a Poet’s blouse,
and it’s still as popular today with
its decorative front and sleeves.
Gibson Girl from Folkwear – click here
BAND WIDTH
Sew this semi-fitted blouse with lace or a sheer fabric for the inset
band. The inset panel forms a pretty chevron and bracelet-length
flounce sleeves. The back has an easy keyhole opening with a
button-and-loop closure, and the pattern doesn’t have a shoulder
seam so the sleeves are easy to sew. With separate pieces for
A/B, C, and D cups, you will get a great fit too.
Afternoon Tea Blouse from Liesl + Co – click here

Montrose Top from Cashmerette – click here
SHEER STYLE
Elevate your style with this timeless classic.
We love that you can show off lace fabrics
with its jewel neck, elbow length sleeves,
and keyhole back. Or you can choose a
delicate, embroidered tulle, or flirty floral
voile – this top is sure to be a hit!
PERFECT FOR LUNCHING
An easy-to-sew blouse that’s both a joy to make and wear, and lends
itself to customising. Designed for woven fabrics, it looks great in
breezy fabrics like cotton voile, as well as more structured fabrics
like a crisp linen. Loose but not baggy, this blouse has generous puff
sleeves and gathers across the front making it comfortable to move
in. Wear it loose or tucked into something high waisted.
Sagebrush Top
from Friday Pattern
Company – click here
SWISS DOT
Lemon Jacquard
from the Bern
Collection –
click here
VINTAGE
COTTON
Sand from the
Nantucket
Collection –
click here
EMBROIDERED
DOUBLE
GAUZE
Soft White from
the Nikaho
Collection –
click here
VISCOSE
BLEND
Yellow and White
Seersucker
Gingham Check,
Tabor Collection
- click here

Night & Day Purse
This versatile set of bags makes it easy to quickly change your look. The purse
has one slip and two zippered compartments to separate and organise all
your essentials. Carry it over the shoulder or crossbody using the adjustable,
detachable strap or use it as a clutch. The Mini Tote is reversible with a
quilted side or a non-quilted side with a welt pocket.
Pack It In
Streamline your holiday
packing with these handy
multi-sized cases.
Constructed of lightweight
mesh and quilted fabric, the cases
hold their shape and are perfect for
sorting and separating all your travel items.
WHAT’S
new
We keep you posted of the latest
launches with new patterns for
bag makers!
Travel Essentials
Carry all the essentials in style
in this handy set that includes
a fold-up organiser and
a bonus hot tools
sleeve. They’ll keep
your essentials
organised at
home or on
the road!
To view these bag
patterns and others from
ByAnnie – click here
Improve your bag skills
We now stock Mrs H’s bag patterns. Samantha is the designer behind
this pattern company and her goal is to create skill-building designs that
support sewers as they take their bag making to the next level. All the
patterns come with step-by-step instructions and photos to help you
along the way.
To view more bag patterns from Mrs H - click here

modelo fabrics
Carlow Washed Linen
Perfect summer fabric
available in 14 popular colours
www.modelofabrics.co.uk/linen