Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 15

MAKING
activewear
Tommie Hernández founder of sirenapatterns.com shares her
tips for making activewear
For many home sewers, making their own activewear is a challenge. But think about how proud you would feel
if someone in the gym asked you “Where did you buy your outfit?” and you could answer, “I made it myself!”
I encourage you to give it a shot and make your first activewear outfit.
Here are some tips to help you get started
with making this type of garment:
FABRIC TYPES:
• Activewear garments have negative ease, which means
the pattern is smaller than the actual body measurements.
And because of this, you’ll need to use a fabric that has the
proper stretch percentage and recovery.
• Since you’ll probably sweat a lot in this type of garment,
I recommend you use a naturally hydrophobic fabric that
wicks away moisture. Nylon/spandex or polyester/spandex
that stretches at least 50% are great synthetic alternatives
that don’t absorb moisture (like cotton). Bamboo/spandex
is a more eco-friendly alternative since bamboo is not
only a natural fibre but also anti-bacterial. Remember that
spandex, elastane and Lycra all mean the same! Lycra is a
name brand, and constitutes a small percentage (around
3% to 20%) of the fabric.
• Four-way stretch fabrics are fabrics that stretch in both
directions, warp and weft while two-way stretch fabrics
stretch only in one direction (either warp or weft)
• For very fitted garments like leggings and sport-bras, 4-way
stretch fabrics in the fibres mentioned with a stretch of at
least 50% or more work great. For loose fitted activewear
such as T-shirts – the fabric can stretch less (25%), and can
be either two-way stretch or 4-way stretch.
CUTTING:
Cutting knit fabrics can be difficult, especially if they’re
lightweight and slippery. If things get difficult when cutting
with regular scissors consider using a rotary cutter instead. This
cutter allows you to make accurate cuts when cutting multiple
layers of fabric, even stretchy ones. Make sure to always use a
cutting mat to protect the surface, change the cutter blades
regularly, and of course, keep it away from children.
STITCH & NEEDLE:
Both the fabric and the stitch should stretch enough to get
the garment in your body, but then recover so you can wear
it comfortably. That’s why it’s so important to use not only the
correct fabric, but also stitches that stretch. If not you will end
up with an ill-fitting garment and popped stitches.
• You can fashion an activewear garment from beginning
to end using a regular sewing machine with a narrow
zigzag stitch (1.5mm wide x 2.5mm long), but I prefer an
overlocker to sew most of the garment (except the hems
and topstitching).
• Keep in mind that the seam allowance for knits is smaller,
usually 6mm (¼in), instead of the usual 1.5cm (5/8in). You
don’t want bulky seam allowance in this type of fabric,
especially in fitted garments. Always read the pattern
instructions and apply the included seam allowance.
• Always test your stitches in a scrap of the same fabric that
you use for the outfit. To prevent skipped stitches, make
sure to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. The size will
depend on the weight of the fabric.