Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 15

Modern Sewing Starts Here is the digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing In this edition ... Pick Of The Patterns .... New sewing pattern releases that you’ll want to sew! Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shares her go-to style that she turns to most days! Tips for making activewear with Tommi Hernandez. We talk to Bari J. artist, author, designer and home décor expert about her instantly recognisable floral style! Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares her tips on making sure your garment is the perfect fit! Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares her sewing with the Serenity fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics. Trendsetter ... Three of the best jacket makes for Spring. Focus On Fabrics... + More ...

Modern Sewing Starts Here is the digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing
In this edition ...

Pick Of The Patterns .... New sewing pattern releases that you’ll want to sew!
Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shares her go-to style that she turns to most days!
Tips for making activewear with Tommi Hernandez.
We talk to Bari J. artist, author, designer and home décor expert about her instantly recognisable floral style!
Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares her tips on making sure your garment is the perfect fit!
Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares her sewing with the Serenity fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics.
Trendsetter ... Three of the best jacket makes for Spring.
Focus On Fabrics...
+ More ...


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<strong>Edition</strong> <strong>15</strong> – April 2021<br />

<strong>Modern</strong><br />

sewing<br />

starts here..<br />

FOCUS ON<br />


Put the spring<br />

back into your<br />

sewing projects<br />

BE ACTIVE!<br />

Tips for making activewear<br />

with Tommie Hernández<br />

Behind the<br />

SCENES<br />

Bari J. shares her interior style<br />


WEAR<br />

Rachel Pinheiro shows<br />

us her go-to style that<br />

she turns to most days<br />

Fabric from Art Gallery Fabrics new<br />

collection - Pollinate<br />



Editor’s Letter<br />

Hello<br />

Warmer days and lighter evenings are definitely in our sights and it’s time to think<br />

about your spring wardrobe. It can still be pretty cold, but it’s time to prepare your<br />

wardrobe for the switch from coat to jacket – we share three of the best jackets for<br />

this season.<br />

This time Rachel Pinheiro shows us her go-to style that she turns to most days,<br />

using True Bias sewing patterns and a fresh colour scheme. Something a little<br />

different – Bari J. shares a sneak peek behind the scenes of her interior style and<br />

her love for colour.<br />

Do you love fabric prints? We spoil you with choice for your sewing projects with<br />

lots of lovely fabric designs. And Sarah Ashford shares what she has been making<br />

with one of the latest fabric collections form Art Gallery Fabrics, Serenity.<br />

Happy stitching!<br />

Hantex team<br />

www.hantex.co.uk<br />

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk<br />

Subscribe free to get your copy – click here<br />

WIN WIN WIN!<br />

A lucky reader will receive the Nikko<br />

sewing pattern from True Bias along<br />

with Albstoffe Knit Knit fabric to<br />

make the long sleeve top in Rachel<br />

Pinheiro’s feature.<br />

How to enter: Current and new<br />

subscribers can visit<br />

www.hantexonline.co.uk/prizedraw<br />

for a chance to win this prize.<br />

Closing date - 30th April 2021<br />


This bag pattern is the perfect go-to bag, which you can use to and from work, on car<br />

trips, and anywhere you travel that you need to stash a notebook and extra items that<br />

don’t normally fit in your purse. This is a quick tote designed with a few useful optional<br />

add-ons. It can be made in canvas or waxed canvas so it’s hardwearing.<br />

To view this bag pattern from Noodlehead – click here<br />



BLOOM<br />

We talk to Bari J. artist, author, designer and home décor<br />

expert about her instantly recognisable floral style!<br />

Q1. Tell us about your journey to<br />

becoming an artist, designer, and<br />

home decor expert?<br />

I actually think my first love was always<br />

home design but creating art lead<br />

me back around to it. It was a natural<br />

progression from creating fabric and<br />

art. And the more I created, the more<br />

I designed rooms until I ended up<br />

merging what I do.<br />

I have been passionate about<br />

design for as long as I can remember.<br />

As a child, my mother would paint<br />

and craft, so it was only a natural<br />

progression that I’d inherit her love of<br />

crafting. I began crafting and creating<br />

jewellery, but when I first learned to<br />

sew I knew I had found my passion.<br />

I was hooked on it. That obsession<br />

is what inspired my own handmade<br />

handbag business and my first book:<br />

Inspired to Sew.<br />

Q2. How would you describe your<br />

interior style?<br />

While I love vintage and soft designs,<br />

I’m constantly drawn to colour and<br />

bold prints which are very modern, as<br />

well as mixing the two for surprising<br />

combinations.<br />

I don’t hold back when it comes to<br />

mixing fabric prints and colours. I<br />

call my style ‘Curated Maximalism’.<br />

What I mean by this is that it’s defined

y layers of colour and pattern<br />

intentionally that’s edited for the most<br />

meaningful and impactful pieces. It<br />

is less about stuff and more about<br />

intentional layering.<br />

Q3. What do you love most about<br />

your work?<br />

It simply makes me happy. Colour<br />

is an instinct for me and takes<br />

precedence over all-else! I’m a colour<br />

junkie!<br />

Q4. When did you first know that<br />

you wanted to share your designs?<br />

This was back in 2008 when I had<br />

been making and selling handbags<br />

and collage art. I started designing<br />

fabric intending it to be for the<br />

handbags but it ended up licensed<br />

for all to use.<br />

Q5. Where do you find the most<br />

inspiration and what’s the most<br />

surprising place you’ve found it?<br />

I was surprised to be so inspired by<br />

the desert as I remember thinking<br />

it was so brown and lifeless initially.<br />

But moving to where I live now, it’s<br />

anything but!<br />

I find inspiration all around me. I<br />

look at photos and imagine faraway<br />

places. I see a colour and that inspires<br />

a whole collection. And when I can’t<br />

travel I look to books and museums –<br />

and local hikes!<br />

Q6. What advice would you give to<br />

someone who wants to experiment<br />

with adding more colour and<br />

pattern to their interiors but don’t<br />

know where to start?<br />

Start experimenting. It will naturally<br />

lead you to enjoying it. Put a pop<br />

here and a pop there, and it’ll all<br />

come together!<br />

Q7. What would you say is the<br />

most important aspect of creating<br />

a room scheme for your home?<br />

Pick one central thing you adore and<br />

design around that.<br />

Q8. Do you use your own designs<br />

in your home, and is there a<br />

particular design that’s become<br />

one of your favourites?<br />

I do. And it’s always the last one I<br />

created. Right now, I have 365 Fifth<br />

Avenue that I designed for Art Gallery<br />

Fabrics just about everywhere!<br />

Q9. Tell us about some of the<br />

collaborations you have done?<br />

Art Gallery Fabrics is my heart – I<br />

adore fabric and love the freedom<br />

that I’m given to design with this<br />

fabric company. Rugs for Loloi have<br />

been very special to me as well. And<br />

I have a special furniture partnership<br />

coming up I can’t wait to share!<br />

To see more gorgeous fabric<br />

collections from Bari J. for<br />

Art Gallery Fabrics – click here


Ramie is such a great fabric to sew with<br />

and perfect for making garments for<br />

the warmer weather. This new washed<br />

fabric is available in a range of 14<br />

different colours, and perfect for your<br />

spring/summer wardrobe.<br />

To view the new Sligo ramie<br />

collection from Modelo – click here<br />


Cloud9 Fabrics has just released four<br />

new organic fabric lines that will be<br />

available for spring/summer 2021. <strong>Here</strong><br />

is a taster of what you can expect from<br />

each of the collections.<br />

To see more from Cloud9 Fabrics<br />

– click here<br />

Floral Deco by<br />

Elizabeth Olwen (rayon)<br />

Focus on<br />


Sweet Nothing by<br />

Elizabeth Olwen<br />

(sateen cotton)<br />

Put the spring back into your sewing<br />

projects with these lovely designs<br />

Arid Wilderness by<br />

Louise Cunningham<br />

(quilter’s cotton)<br />

Bloom Together by<br />

Meenal Patel<br />

(quilter’s cotton)<br />


Looking for gorgeous summery colours to make tee shirts, summer dresses and<br />

tops, then this cotton knit organic jersey from Modelo is ideal. The organic fabric<br />

is OEKO-TEX certified and available in a vibrant range of bright, cheerful, summer<br />

colours. With eight to choose from you will be spoilt for choice! It has 5% Elastane<br />

so it’s perfect for garments that need a bit of stretch.<br />

To view all eight of the vibrant colours this cotton knit has to offer – click here


This fabric is lightweight, semi sheer and perfect<br />

for those floaty dresses when the sun is beating<br />

down. This woven-striped cotton has a pretty<br />

Swiss dot effect making it perfect for those<br />

easy to wear tops and dresses where floaty<br />

fabrics are a must! There are 10 pastel<br />

colours to choose from.<br />

To see more from the new Bern collection<br />

from Modelo – click here<br />


The last Monaluna range was incredibly popular and sold<br />

out quickly and we think Vintage 74 will be just as popular!<br />

This harmonious collection includes beautiful prints<br />

featuring beautiful florals, birds and butterflies.<br />

Inspired by designer, Jennifer Moore, grandmother’s<br />

farmhouse in the mid 70’s, the palette and prints lend<br />

themselves to bright, summery designs, with a bit of a retro<br />

styling thrown in! The range is GOTS-certified organic and<br />

there are 11 great prints to choose from!<br />

To view this new retro collection from Monaluna – click here<br />


Modelo has just brought out a gorgeous range of 44 stunning rayon<br />

print fabrics for spring/summer. This new collection of prints<br />

contains co-ordinating groups of three and four fabrics that work<br />

perfectly together. They’re ideal for mixing and matching.<br />

Modelo has a wonderful ethos of sustainability through quality<br />

where its fabrics can stand the test of time, look better for<br />

longer and reward your sewing time with a great finished<br />

garment. These rayons are beautifully soft, light and perfect for<br />

your warm weather wardrobe!<br />

To view more from the Mistral Rayons from Modelo – click here


With Art Gallery Fabrics<br />


The new Velvet fabric collection is<br />

all about the luxury of home, the<br />

comfort of being surrounded by<br />

loved ones, and one’s most beloved<br />

art, books, and souvenirs. The range<br />

features a mix of rich and gentle hues to<br />

give a feel-good colour palette that also tunes<br />

in with the opulent prints of this collection, and is<br />

perfect for adding the finishing touches like cushions<br />

and throws to your home this season.<br />

To see more of the fabric designs from this collection<br />

– click here<br />


There is nothing better than sewing for spring.<br />

The Flower Society collection from AGF Studio is<br />

brimming with cute florals both big and small ranging<br />

in dark, moody to simple, modern, ditsy, and retro<br />

designs. Packed full with floral designs there’s a style<br />

for everyone. To see view the full Flower Society<br />

fabric collection – click here<br />


The Pollinate fabric collection is perfect for your springtime makes! Designed by Jessica Swift for Art Gallery Fabrics with<br />

bees buzzing, birds singing, and flowers blooming bright, it brings the wonders of nature together during this cheerful season<br />

right into your sewing room any time of the year!<br />

To learn more about this collection - click here


3 of the best jackets for spring<br />


Find the middle ground in a lovely longer line<br />

jacket. This style of coat is a little bit smarter and<br />

perfect for everyday. The Alegra Jacket is a great<br />

option for transcending the seasons. This open<br />

front collarless jacket has deep raglan sleeves<br />

giving it a Magyar effect. The clever cocoon shape<br />

is created by the darts on the hemline. While the<br />

pleated back blouson adds to its distinctive style.<br />

Alegra Jacket from Style Arc<br />

- click here<br />

Yanaka<br />

Jacket from<br />

Liesl + Co<br />

– click here<br />


A garment that’s a cross between a blazer and<br />

a cardigan is what’s called for! This unlined<br />

jacket is semi-fitted, slightly cropped, and<br />

includes a stylish cutaway silhouette, cut-on<br />

sleeves, a sleeve gusset for better movement<br />

and fit, and a gentle stand-up collar. With no<br />

set-in sleeve or closures, this style is fun and<br />

easy to sew as well as versatile to wear!<br />

Stafford<br />

Jacket from<br />

The <strong>Sewing</strong><br />

Workshop –<br />

click here<br />


You can make in denim but this is no standard jean jacket! The Stafford is<br />

a loose-fitting, non-traditional jacket that has front and back yokes, faux<br />

button flaps over western-style front panels, collar with inset stand, ¾<br />

length full sleeves and classic topstitching.<br />



Korem Royal Blue<br />

Modelo – click here<br />

LINEN<br />

Sligo Ramie Washed,<br />

Modelo - click here<br />


Wonderful Things<br />

Aquarelle Study, AGF<br />

- click here<br />


Hartford Dusky Pink,<br />

Modelo - click here<br />

DENIM<br />

Ditsy Abrasion Print,<br />

Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

– click here<br />

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand<br />

or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

MAKING<br />

activewear<br />

Tommie Hernández founder of sirenapatterns.com shares her<br />

tips for making activewear<br />

For many home sewers, making their own activewear is a challenge. But think about how proud you would feel<br />

if someone in the gym asked you “Where did you buy your outfit?” and you could answer, “I made it myself!”<br />

I encourage you to give it a shot and make your first activewear outfit.<br />

<strong>Here</strong> are some tips to help you get started<br />

with making this type of garment:<br />


• Activewear garments have negative ease, which means<br />

the pattern is smaller than the actual body measurements.<br />

And because of this, you’ll need to use a fabric that has the<br />

proper stretch percentage and recovery.<br />

• Since you’ll probably sweat a lot in this type of garment,<br />

I recommend you use a naturally hydrophobic fabric that<br />

wicks away moisture. Nylon/spandex or polyester/spandex<br />

that stretches at least 50% are great synthetic alternatives<br />

that don’t absorb moisture (like cotton). Bamboo/spandex<br />

is a more eco-friendly alternative since bamboo is not<br />

only a natural fibre but also anti-bacterial. Remember that<br />

spandex, elastane and Lycra all mean the same! Lycra is a<br />

name brand, and constitutes a small percentage (around<br />

3% to 20%) of the fabric.<br />

• Four-way stretch fabrics are fabrics that stretch in both<br />

directions, warp and weft while two-way stretch fabrics<br />

stretch only in one direction (either warp or weft)<br />

• For very fitted garments like leggings and sport-bras, 4-way<br />

stretch fabrics in the fibres mentioned with a stretch of at<br />

least 50% or more work great. For loose fitted activewear<br />

such as T-shirts – the fabric can stretch less (25%), and can<br />

be either two-way stretch or 4-way stretch.<br />

CUTTING:<br />

Cutting knit fabrics can be difficult, especially if they’re<br />

lightweight and slippery. If things get difficult when cutting<br />

with regular scissors consider using a rotary cutter instead. This<br />

cutter allows you to make accurate cuts when cutting multiple<br />

layers of fabric, even stretchy ones. Make sure to always use a<br />

cutting mat to protect the surface, change the cutter blades<br />

regularly, and of course, keep it away from children.<br />


Both the fabric and the stitch should stretch enough to get<br />

the garment in your body, but then recover so you can wear<br />

it comfortably. That’s why it’s so important to use not only the<br />

correct fabric, but also stitches that stretch. If not you will end<br />

up with an ill-fitting garment and popped stitches.<br />

• You can fashion an activewear garment from beginning<br />

to end using a regular sewing machine with a narrow<br />

zigzag stitch (1.5mm wide x 2.5mm long), but I prefer an<br />

overlocker to sew most of the garment (except the hems<br />

and topstitching).<br />

• Keep in mind that the seam allowance for knits is smaller,<br />

usually 6mm (¼in), instead of the usual 1.5cm (5/8in). You<br />

don’t want bulky seam allowance in this type of fabric,<br />

especially in fitted garments. Always read the pattern<br />

instructions and apply the included seam allowance.<br />

• Always test your stitches in a scrap of the same fabric that<br />

you use for the outfit. To prevent skipped stitches, make<br />

sure to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. The size will<br />

depend on the weight of the fabric.


To finish hems on activewear with a regular sewing machine you<br />

can use a medium zigzag stitch or a twin needle. For a more<br />

professional finish, a coverstitch sewing machine is ideal, but<br />

not indispensable. with either 2 or 3 needles. Always test the<br />

stitch you want to use first in a scrap of fabric and adjust the<br />

tensions accordingly.<br />


This stitch is the most recommended for activewear and<br />

achieving a professional looking finish. It looks like two rows<br />

of stitching on the outside and on the inside it’s similar to a<br />

serger stitch.<br />

ZIGZAG<br />

A medium zig zag (3mm x 3mm) is ideal for finishing hems.<br />


<strong>Here</strong> you’ll hem using the same coverstitch sewing machine but<br />

you simply make the hem with the wrong side of the garment<br />

towards the presser foot. That way, you will have the two rows<br />

of stitches on the inside and the serger looking finish on the<br />

outside. If you combine different colors of threads on the<br />

needle you can achieve a very fun, casual look, great<br />

for activewear.<br />

AND FINALLY…..<br />

Practice makes perfect! Keep practising with the equipment<br />

you have, and if you’re sewing knits frequently consider adding<br />

an overlocker, and eventually in a coverstitch to your sewing<br />

machine inventory, both are great investments for sewing<br />

knits enthusiasts!<br />


Alternatively, you can also use a ballpoint twin needle to<br />

achieve a look similar to the coverstitch with two rows of<br />

stitching, although it doesn’t stretch as much as the<br />

coverstitch one.<br />

Tommie Hernandez is a Fashion Designer with over 20 years<br />

of experience and four years ago, founded Sirena Patterns.<br />

Sirena Patterns is the only Puerto-Rican sewing pattern<br />

company, and sells to more than 43 countries in digital<br />

format and with printed distribution in the UK, US and Puerto<br />

Rico. She also uses her experience to teach how to create<br />

clothes and swimwear. Her online fashion academy has more<br />

than 1,700 students around the world, and Tommie says<br />

“For me, technology is a great tool to compensate for inperson<br />

contact, even if it doesn’t replace it!” She also helps<br />

entrepreneurs launch their own fashion businesses.<br />

To find your local stockist of Sirena Patterns – click here

BE<br />

active!<br />

Discover patterns and fabrics<br />

for staying active!<br />


Sirena Patterns will be branching out into<br />

activewear (as well as swimwear patterns)<br />

and has five patterns including sports<br />

bra, leggings, joggers and hoodies all<br />

in sizes XS-XXL. These are currently in<br />

development so watch this space!<br />

To find more sewing patterns<br />

from Sirena Patterns – click here<br />


Performance meets style with<br />

the Belmont Leggings & Yoga<br />

Pants! With this pattern you can<br />

make the ultimate wardrobe<br />

essential, a pair of full-length<br />

leggings with a clean hidden<br />

elastic finish. Or salute the sun<br />

in the other option – a classic<br />

pair of yoga pants featuring a<br />

Capri length hem and fold-over<br />

waistband, which can be worn<br />

up or down. Designed with<br />

comfortable, ultra-high rises and<br />

optional flexible gussets, these<br />

will keep you moving all day<br />

long. The pattern is available in<br />

sizes 12-32.<br />

For more sewing patterns from<br />

Cashmerette – click here<br />

JALIE<br />

Whatever the specialist activewear you’re looking for, Jalie probably has it! They’ve a wide selection of<br />

patterns that are great for running, working out at the gym, tennis, the beach, your bike, the ice or dance<br />

floor, and cover many patterns that are hard to find. The patterns come in an impressive range of sizes for<br />

women, men and children.<br />

To view more of the patterns available from Jalie – click here<br />

Modelo Activewear Fabric collection is a high quality blend<br />

of nylon and elastane, which is designed specifically for<br />

activewear. These fabrics can also be used for dancewear<br />

and swimwear too. With vibrant and contemporary designs<br />

that work well alone or in combination with solid colours,<br />

there’s one just right for your next pattern.<br />

To this wide range of fabrics from Modelo – click here<br />

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand<br />

or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

New spring sewing pattern releases<br />

for you to sew!<br />


The Wildwood Wrap Dress is now<br />

available in a printed format. The<br />

dress is perfect for the office, a<br />

wedding or party or when you just<br />

feel like wearing a dress. It’s a true<br />

wrap dress, with a detached obiinspired<br />

belt. The beauty of this<br />

dress is created by the drape of<br />

the shawl collar and enhanced by<br />

the waist and shoulder pleats. It<br />

has generous front pockets, and<br />

a slim skirt with a wide faced<br />

hem. French seams are used to<br />

construct the upper bodice so<br />

version B looks pretty once the<br />

sleeves are rolled up. Choose a<br />

below the knee or longer midilength<br />

hem. The pattern comes in<br />

sizes 00-22 and 16-34.<br />

To find more patterns from Sew<br />

House Seven – click here<br />


The Appleton Dress is now available in two new sizes 12-28<br />

and 0-16. This classic knit wrap dress is designed to play<br />

up your curves with a crossover front, built-in waist tie, and<br />

deep V-neck. Designed by and for curvy women, it has an<br />

innovative neckband construction, which prevents gaping<br />

across your bust that can happen on this style of dress.<br />

For more sewing patterns from Cashmerette – click here<br />


This pattern company has spring all styled out with lots of new<br />

patterns available. We particularly love the Wilma Top, which now<br />

comes in a smaller size 4-16 as well as 18-30. This square shaped<br />

pull-on top has a pretty gusseted dolman sleeve, and is shaped<br />

with front and back body darts extending from the gussets and<br />

finished with topstitching. The Hope Dress is another great option<br />

for transcending the seasons. This pull-on dress is so versatile with its<br />

3/4-length sleeves, high waist and comfortable deep raglan armhole.<br />

To view more of the new sewing patterns available<br />

from Style Arc – click here<br />

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand<br />

or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

A favourite formula<br />

Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shares her<br />

go-to style that she turns to most days!<br />

This trend is almost unconscious. You pick<br />

every element effortlessly and you feel great.<br />

Yes, I’m talking about wearing clothes that<br />

you feel comfortable in and look your best<br />

that you can use as a ‘uniform’ for your<br />

lifestyle. We all have a particular formula that<br />

will take us through most events with no fuss<br />

but a ton of style power. Even better when it<br />

forms a strong base layer, which by adding<br />

fresh new colours, it revitalises our wardrobe<br />

without too much effort. Today, I’m talking<br />

about my favourite formula – the turtleneck<br />

and high-waisted trousers.<br />

The thing about style is that your personal<br />

taste and point of view trumps old-fashioned<br />

‘Fix your body’ shape advice would dictate.<br />

For example, I’m a 6ft tall gal with short body<br />

length and busty. My all time go to outfit<br />

‘highlights’ that I’m top heavy and the lack of<br />

distance to my waist (shorten body length).<br />

I’m a firm believer that you can wear<br />

anything but there is a secret, you need to<br />

balance your hems. This style works so well<br />

for me, that if you ask a friend to describe a<br />

usual day to day outfit that they would see<br />

me wearing, it’s most likely they’d say with<br />

enthusiasm that I would be wearing turtleneck<br />

and waist defining trousers as a base layer<br />

plus a blazer or a coat. This is my off duty style<br />

encapsulated. This season, I’m swapping a<br />

jacket/coat for a quilted long waistcoat and<br />

adding the ‘refresh’ colour of a yellow scarf.<br />

The outfit, pattern<br />

and fabric and the<br />

modifications I’ve done!<br />



Nikko Top<br />

I have made this pattern before into the<br />

turtleneck dress for a previous issue of this<br />

magazine. You can view it here.<br />

It’s good to remake a sewing pattern<br />

and try something a little different. I<br />

lengthened the turtleneck by 5cm, and<br />

now it folds nicely for a traditional look or<br />

wear it full up to make a big statement!<br />

The fabric has a lovely weave texture and<br />

mid-weight that feels cosy but thin enough<br />

to fit well when layered.<br />

Lander Pants<br />

I’ve seen lots of photos on<br />

Instagram from sewists of this<br />

pattern and I must be the last<br />

person on earth to make it! To<br />

make mine a little different, I’ve<br />

added an extra button with an<br />

extended waistband. I really love<br />

the width of the legs as it has a<br />

’70s feel.<br />

The fabric has a slight stretch<br />

and sheen with a granular<br />

texture. I prefer more weight

for trousers. It just feels a little summertime<br />

for now. A couple of tips – be prepared<br />

to really reinforce the areas that tend to<br />

stretch and be careful when pressing. Like<br />

many gabardines, heat will stain the fabric<br />

so use a press cloth. I enjoyed constructing<br />

both of these patterns.<br />

Tips for buttonholes<br />

1. Make a sample that replicates the<br />

garment – fabric, interfacing and<br />

layers of fabrics. Adjust your tension<br />

if necessary.<br />

2. Test the size with the button - cut<br />

the buttonhole open and check<br />

how the buttons fit. When wearing<br />

jeans the placement of the buttons<br />

will influence how nicely the seam<br />

matches. Positioning the button in the<br />

middle will not necessarily give you<br />

the best result.<br />

3. Use a fray deterrent like Fray Check<br />

from Prym. That will make the buttons.<br />

4. I recommend investing in a<br />

buttonhole cutter. It’s life changing!<br />

Editor’s notes<br />


Rachel has this time used two patterns from True Bias to make her outfit.<br />

The Nikko includes four views, all with a simple and stylish mock turtleneck.<br />

This fitted silhouette is perfect pairing for high waisted trousers. Fabric<br />

suggestions include medium weight knit fabric with an approximate 75%<br />

stretch such as rib knit, sweater knit, bamboo knit, or stretch velvet.<br />

The Lander Pant has a lovely high waist and button fly that’s flattering and<br />

comfortable for all body types. The pattern includes front and back patch<br />

pockets, belt loops, and a straight fit through the legs. Make in an ankle or<br />

boot length pant and shorts. Fabric suggestions include medium to heavy<br />

bottom weight fabrics with little to no stretch like twill, linen, corduroy and<br />

denim. The best lining fabrics are cotton voile, quilting cotton and linen.<br />

To view other True Bias sewing pattersn or find a local stockist – click here<br />

Rachel chose to make her top in Organic Knit Knit natural 3D jacquard<br />

jersey from Hamburger Liebe for Albstoffe. To view all the colours from<br />

this fabric range – click here<br />

To make the Lander Pant, Rachel has used Modelo’s Cotton Stretch Twill<br />

fabric in Attica Sand. To view the rest of the colours – click here<br />


Prym Fray Check – click here<br />

Prym Jeans Buttons – click here<br />

17mm antique copper with laurel wreath design

Tips for measuring<br />


Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares her tips on making<br />

sure your garment is the perfect fit!<br />

We’ve all done it, haven’t we? We’re so excited to be sewing that we’ve launched straight in! Then we spend all that love,<br />

attention and time, cutting out and sewing only to find it doesn’t fit properly. You heard the phrase ‘measure twice and cut once’<br />

well this is how you put it into practice!<br />



1. The pattern size is the same as readymade garments you buy on the<br />

High Street. It’s not and also more importantly each indie pattern<br />

company will have its own sizing charts and measurements too.<br />

2. All sewing patterns follow a set of standard measurements. No<br />

they don’t, and very few of us would match these measurements<br />

completely as we’re all different shapes and sizes and something to<br />

be celebrated.<br />

3. Use your own<br />

measurements for every<br />

pattern you sew. Yes this is true,<br />

but you should always redo<br />

these every time you start to<br />

make a garment, even if it’s<br />

a pattern that you’ve made<br />

before. Just like our weight, our<br />

measurements can fluctuate too.<br />


DO YOU NEED:<br />

thepatternpages.com<br />

A. Height - Stand with your<br />

back, head and heels against My measurements cross between two sizes<br />

the wall without shoes. Your on this Olive Dress from Megan Nielson so I’d<br />

friend should place the ruler pick to make the size 14 for the bust, as the<br />

across the top of your head and<br />

dress is loose fitting.<br />

mark. Measure from the floor to<br />

the mark for height.<br />

B. Chest - Measure immediately under your armpits and across the top of chest.<br />

C. Bust - Measure across the bust’s fullest part and the widest part of the back.<br />

D. Waist - Measure your natural waistline. To find this – you can tie a piece of string around<br />

your waist and let it settle as you bend left and right.<br />

E. Hips - Take the measurement around the fullest part (this is usually 8cm-23cm below the<br />

waistline).<br />

TIP: For more precise measurements, always round up to the nearest whole centimetre.<br />

thepatternpages.com<br />


Making a pattern fit you well is all about taking accurate body measurements.<br />

Take your measurements over your usual underwear and don’t be tempted to pull the<br />

measuring tape too tightly. Ask a friend around and ask them to help. They will be able to<br />

get more accurate measurements as you can stand still.

Olive Top shown with Opal Pants –<br />

both from Megan Nielsen<br />

TIP: If no one else is around to help then you might like the Self Measuring<br />

Tape from Sew To Grow! It’s easy to use, simply wrap the tape measure<br />

around your body, place the end of the tape into the opposite side of the<br />

device, push the button so the tape retracts and let it contour to the shape of<br />

your body. This allows you to look in a mirror and make sure the tape is level<br />

and in the right spot so that you get accurate measurements every time.<br />

To find your local stockist – click here<br />


Shoulder length<br />

Measure from the base of the neck to shoulder point.<br />

To find base of the neck – place tape measure around your neck under the<br />

thyroid.<br />

To find the shoulder point – raise the arm to shoulder level and this is where<br />

the dip forms at the shoulder bone.<br />

Front waist length<br />

Measure vertically down from the prominent shoulder bone over bust point<br />

to the waist.<br />

Back waist length<br />

Measure from the top of your spine to natural waistline.<br />

Arm length<br />

Measure from the shoulder bone to elbow and then with elbow bent<br />

measure to the wrist.<br />


Garment ease<br />

For a garment to fit comfortably, the pattern might say it has ease. This is so<br />

you can move freely such as moving your arms up and down.<br />

Wearing ease<br />

This is the minimum amount of ease for a garment to be comfortable.<br />

Within the sewing industry wearing ease is usually 6.4cm at the bust, 2.5cm<br />

at the waist and 7.6cm at the hip area.<br />

Design ease<br />

This is an amount that the designer has added/subtracted to create a<br />

specific silhouette. To determine ease, measure the pattern from seam<br />

to seam (excluding seam allowances) and compare it with your body<br />

measurements to the total circumference measurement of the pattern. The<br />

difference is the amount of ease the pattern has.<br />



For skirts, shorts and trousers<br />

Use your hip measurement to select<br />

the pattern size<br />

For dresses, tops and jackets<br />

Use the bust measurement to select<br />

the pattern size

Finding Calm with<br />

Serenity Fusion<br />

Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares her sewing<br />

with the Serenity fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

I really enjoyed making this oversized<br />

patchwork drawstring bag, which is perfect<br />

for a beach themed home. I’ve used a<br />

pattern called The Finch Bucket by Stitch<br />

Mischief. I’ve actually put mine in the<br />

bathroom – it’s a great way to keep all<br />

those bottles, toys or even toilet rolls tidied<br />

away! The beach theme so inspired me<br />

that I also made a little patchwork sailboat<br />

block, riding the waves of the ocean. I<br />

can just imagine a whole quilt of small 6in<br />

illustrative blocks like this – it would be<br />

perfect for a seaside retreat or even for a<br />

picnic blanket to take on the beach. If you<br />

fancy making your own Serenity Fusion<br />

quilt, you can find the free pattern for the<br />

‘Pacific’ quilt on the Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

Website. Do check it out here.<br />

Muted, subtle, dreamy and calming are<br />

the perfect adjectives to describe the<br />

latest collection, Serenity Fusion from<br />

Art Gallery Fabrics. Each of the prints is<br />

designed by a different AGF designer and<br />

their distinctive styles shining through.<br />

If you’re looking for a soft colour palette<br />

that’s gentle on the eye, then this beautiful<br />

low volume collection is it. It reminds<br />

me of hazy days at the seaside, with the<br />

seagulls over head, and the waves gently<br />

lapping at the shore and the grains of<br />

sand tickling my feet. Pure bliss!<br />

There are 12 cotton prints in this<br />

collection, and while the palette is gentle<br />

– there’s a good variation in scale and<br />

print, making them perfect for patchwork.<br />

There are seagulls, feathers, tiny florals<br />

and some beautiful textures, which all<br />

work harmoniously together. Equally, they<br />

would work well paired with other more<br />

vibrant collections, to provide a ‘resting<br />

place’ for the eyes. Or if you wanted<br />

to pair these prints with some solids,<br />

the matching blenders from the Pure<br />

Elements collection that work really well<br />

include Macchiato, Cafe Latte, Cloud and<br />

Aquarium.<br />

Editor’s notes<br />

The Serenity Fusion fabric<br />

collection from Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

is a breath of fresh air with its<br />

low volume prints, inspired by<br />

the tranquil waters of the ocean<br />

and feeling the warm sand<br />

between your toes. This collection<br />

highlights celeste tones with<br />

creamy, ethereal, and subtle<br />

textures.<br />

To view more from this cool<br />

collection – click here<br />

This collection would also work<br />

wonderfully for light summer dresses<br />

or tops, either for the little ones or for<br />

you! The tiny floral print, in particular<br />

is perfect for this and there are some<br />

lovely samples in the Serenity Fusion<br />

‘look book’ on the AGF website.<br />

I really like the simplistic beauty of<br />

this collection. With hand drawn lines,<br />

brushstroke lines, dots and crosses,<br />

it has a really organic, gentle feel,<br />

inspired by nature. It would be perfect<br />

for baby quilts, garments and home<br />

décor. The range of textured prints<br />

make it really versatile, and a great<br />

one to have in your stash to blend with<br />

other prints as well.


This quilt pattern by Elizabeth Hartman includes all the instructions to make the same<br />

bold starburst quilt design in three sizes, plus a cushion. Everything is made using<br />

conventional patchwork techniques so there are no templates or paper piecing!<br />

This is a perfect project for featuring your favourite colours and prints, and the<br />

pattern includes a detailed colour chart that can be used to duplicate the fabrics that<br />

the designer has used, or as a guide for organising your own fabrics, and it’s great<br />

for using up fabric scraps too.<br />

To view this colourful quilt pattern – click here<br />

WHAT’S<br />

NEW<br />

We keep you posted with the<br />

latest launches<br />


Mix and match your way to a wardrobe of beautiful dresses and<br />

skirts with the Upton Dress & Skirt plus Mix & Match Expansion<br />

Pack! This pattern features multiple bodice, skirt, sleeve, and<br />

neckline options for hundreds of dresses. Choose from dresses for<br />

brunch and cocktails to weddings, this single pattern can do it all!<br />

The full pattern option includes the original Upton Dress pattern<br />

pieces, which are necessary to use in conjunction with this pattern.<br />

Choose your own adventure with lots of styles that can be mixed<br />

and matched with over 350 combinations! The new pattern<br />

features include darted or princess seamed bodices with and<br />

without sleeves as well as new necklines and standalone skirt with<br />

a new contoured waistband and different length options.<br />

To view this pattern from Cashmerette – click here<br />


This new book from Lori Holt of Bee in my Bonnet Co. is<br />

sure to shake up your world with colour! Create quilts filled<br />

with a myriad of cool, light and bright colours, centred on a<br />

kaleidoscope-inspired star block. There are three quilt and<br />

three pillow size options to choose from and an endless array<br />

of colour and design options to select! It also has a radiant<br />

coordinating cross-stitch that will light up your home as well<br />

as showing two different methods for making flying geese and<br />

half square triangles!<br />

To find out how to get your copy – click here

Details<br />

Chambrays &<br />

Denims<br />

By Modelo Fabrics<br />

Patchwork design by Rachel Pinheiro using the Tamarack pattern by<br />

Grainline Studio and featuring Modelo chambray<br />

Distributed Exclusively in the UK by Hantex Ltd<br />

modelo<br />

fabrics<br />

Find patterns, fabrics and everything<br />

‘Denim’ as well as stockists at …<br />


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