Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 11

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On the Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses 4 ways to transfer pattern markings to fabric MARK When you sew any garment, you’ll need to temporarily mark the placement of things like closures, darts, pockets and notches from your sewing pattern. This is an important step and needs to be accurate to get a perfect fit. There are lots of different marking tools on the market so which one should you choose? CHALK Chalk markers come in the form of a pencil, wheel or in a flat piece of chalk known as tailor’s chalk. Your sewing machine probably arrived with a standard chalk pencil and brush but there are lots of different colours and sizes available. Tailor’s chalk comes in a variety of colours and has been used in the tailoring businesses for years. A chalk wheel is easy to hold and delivers an accurate fine line of chalk powder. It’s more ergonomically shaped and ideal for left and right-handers. I really like the Prym chalk stick, which you can get a pack to refill it. To view it – click here Pros: Chalk is a less risky option as it will fade and brush away easily on all fabrics (which is sometimes a disadvantage too) Cons: It can easily break if dropped, and most types you will need to sharpen regularly. CARBON PAPER AND TRACING WHEEL This is a more traditional way of transferring markings to fabric. It’s a bit fiddly to use – you need to place the carbon paper face down on your fabric, lay the pattern on top, and use the tracing wheel to trace the lines onto the fabric. Pros: You can mark both sides of the fabric at once, which is an advantage for transferring things like darts. It’s good for transferring longer pattern lines to fabric before cutting. Cons: The carbon paper can smudge onto your fabric when holding it in place with your hands. You do need to apply quite a lot of pressure so the lines are not faint, so it works better on thinner fabrics. Curves can be tricky to transfer and the chalk can drag slightly on the fabric. PENS There are a wide range of pens from water soluble ones that remove by washing in soapy water, and disappearing/vanishing/air-dry pens where marks disappear after 48 hours (these usually come in a violet colour). Pros: Vanishing pens are good for fabrics that are not suitable for washing. Most pen types come in different tip thicknesses. A pen rolls easily, doesn’t drag on fabric, comes in a variety of colours, and never needs sharpening. Cons: Pens can dry out quickly if not stored correctly, and need replacing regularly. TAILOR’S TACKS These tiny little stitches are made up of loose looped hand sewn stitches that are sewn through your patterns onto the fabric. Pros: This is a really safe way to mark delicate/light-coloured fabrics. Again you can mark both sides of fabric at once, and they can be sewn through tissue patterns easily. Cons: It takes longer to sew these and the thread can pull out of fabric when handling, and can be more difficult to sew on thicker weight patterns too. MARKING TIPS ☒ Always test your pencil/pen/chalk on a scrap of the fabric before starting your project to see how it reacts and how easy it is to remove. ☒ Test out a few different marking tools to see which one you prefer and which one is more accurate for the job. ☒ Use light-coloured marking tools on dark fabrics and darker-coloured tools on light fabrics. To find more marking tools – click here
Trendsetter Summer styling 3 catwalk trends to sew this season CONTEMPORARY TEA DRESS A tea dress is an easy garment for stylish days. Typically made in floral ditsy fabrics and flattering but why not give it a modern look with plain fabrics. This is a great pattern that has lots of different style options. Make yours above the knee length, midi tea length or even as a hip length top. To find out more about this lovely dress pattern from Sew House Seven - click here OVERALL STYLE A big trend for this summer that will also see you into the autumn; is the overall. This is an extension of the jumpsuit trend that’s been around for a while but has a relaxed look. This pattern features angled patch pockets set into princess seams, a V-neckline and a front button closure. To view the Yari Jumpsuit from True Bias - click here SLEEVES WITH VOLUME It’s definitely all about pumping up the volume when it comes to sleeves, and the bigger the better! The braceletlength flounce sleeves on this top adds some drama to this blouse along with the choice of inset sheer/lace inset stripe or fun frill. To find out more about the Afternoon Tea Blouse from Liesl + Co Pattern – click here
Page 1 and 2: Edition 11 - July 2020 Modern sewin
Page 3 and 4: Editor’s Letter Hello The joy of
Page 5 and 6: SHORTS Shorts for all occasions, an
Page 7 and 8: Ballerina Fusion This is one of the
Page 9: LUSH LAMINATES These matte finished
Page 13 and 14: VINTAGE STYLE Travel back to a gent
Page 15 and 16: Jeans are a go! Rio Grey Stretch Co

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