Autumn 2023

SPOTLIGHT ON:
Drôme and Loire
The Unspoiled, unknown part
of southern France
Janine Marsh explores the culture and
the art of living in the southern French
regions of Drôme and Loire in Auvergne-
Rhône-Alpes…
I’m not sure that you’ll find a much more diverse
region than Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Within its
12 departments and 1 metropolis, it includes
Lyon, the food capital of France, the snowy
peaks of Mont Blanc, Drôme and Ardèche,
parts of which feel like a more tranquil and
rather nostalgic part of Provence, and then
there are the lakes and volcanoes of Auvergne.
You could spend many months in this vast area
getting to know it and discovering its many
charms, fabulous gastronomy and wines, its
history and culture, chateaux and medieval
villages. But who has months? Not many of
us, so how about a road trip through two of its
most surprising and diverse departments – the
Drôme and the Loire - nothing to do with the
Loire valley though it is named after the River
Loire, the last wild river in Europe, which runs
1006km from Ardèche via the Loire Valley to
the Atlantic Ocean. You could actually drive
the entire route I’ve mapped out in 3 and a
half hours, but if you do it over a few days
or a week, you’ll discover some of the most
incredible parts of the region which gives you
a snapshot of its surprising and astonishing
natural diversity, culture, history, and a
delicious taste of its gastronomic delights…
Valence – gastronomic star
Just a couple of hours by train from Paris
brings you to the city of Valence perched on
the banks of the Rhône river. The capital of
the Drôme department and gateway to the
south of France, Valence is within reach of the
Pre-Alps, the hilly mountainous area between
the Swiss plateau and northern side of the
French Alps, and the Vercors Massif which you
can clearly see from the city’s Esplanade du
Champ du Mars park.
Head into the city centre to wander winding
cobbled streets lined with a melting pot of
Wallpaper room, Valence museum
architectural styles, and discover the history,
culture and cuisine. Don’t miss the Museum of
Valence, a former Bishop’s palace, which hosts
an eclectic collection of artworks including
a stunning early 19th century wallpapered
room – the most complete example in France.
Then head to the rooftop for jaw-dropping
views over the city and river. Transformed into
a viewing point by French architect Jean-Paul
Philippon who also oversaw the design of the
Musée d’Orsay in Paris, it’s fabulous.
“It’s a human-sized town” said guide Stephan
as he led me along medieval flower-filled
cobbled streets pointing out some of the more
unusual features. The Maison des Têtes (House
of the heads) for instance, an incredible 16th
century building, covered in carved heads.
There are ancient chapels and churches, a
statue of Napoleon, not as we usually see
him, but as a 16-year-old student reading a
book – the Emperor was once a lieutenant at
Valence artillery school and in fact stayed at
the Maison des Têtes. And don’t miss lovely
Place Saint-Jean, where a market is held on
Tuesdays, a great place to relax with a glass of
wine at one of the many cafés and bars.
18 Chateau | The de Good la Roche Life © France G Reynard, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Tourism
The Good Life France | 19