Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin

156 Neudahl
4. Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
Hydrolyzed oat protein can also provide substantivity, shine, split-end repair,
and a protective barrier to hair. Aspartic and glutamic acids, the two amino
acids with carboxyl-containing R groups, together account for 40% of the
amino acid content of the protein (34), making for improved humectancy.
Exceptionally light color allows greater formulation latitude. A10% use level
is recommended for irritancy mitigation in shampoos, and a 2% level in formulated
leave-in and rinse-out conditioners.
E. Amino Acids
Wheat amino acids are derived from wheat protein, fully hydrolyzed to its
constituent amino acids. Like oat protein, 40% of the amino acids have carboxyl-containing
R groups (see Tables 2 and 4). The small size of amino acids
allows absorption and retention in the hair fibers (35). Their hygroscopic nature
allows them to function as humectants when applied directly to hair at a
low 0.2% active solution (36). In rinse-out conditioners, a use level of 0.5%
actives is recommended to enhance hair's equilibrium moisture content.
Collagen "amino acids" covers hydrolyzates which vary by manufacturer
from actual amino acids to short polypeptides (